Hi everybody!

I am new to the scene and to this forum, although I have been reading your comments for some time.

I wonder if anyone else has come across a problem I have with my steam loco class 81 or has any advice.
Very often the engine gets jerky. Whilst on the move, it has difficulty in mainting its speed, it sort of brakes for a second making a grindy noise and then moves again. In a track of abt 9 meters length, this will happen about 4-5 times. This will mainly happen when the engine is cold, that is in the begining of a session, but sometimes also when has done few runs. I tied to oil her but I overdid it and sent it for cleaning. On her return she worked fine for one week (abt 5-6 hours in total) but then started doing the same again. Any idea what I can do to save her?
Your advice will be highly appreciated.

Thank you very much for your prompt reply.
I will certainly give her a try.

In the good old days when I was a kid, Märklin oil was just plain sewing-machine oil repackaged and it worked very well for those old loks. Nowadays the locos are "finer" in gearing and Märklin also seems to have changed the oil "formula" during the late 80:s-early 90:s.. The new "formula" seems to dry up and become like glue if locos are not run... I had 2 "shelf-warmers" for service from the local hobby shop the other day where the motors were all locked up due to stiffened oil... A thorough cleaning and re-oiling with silicone oil and another oil made them run again... So now the shop owner can sell them... <img src=icon_smile_evil.gif border=0 align=middle>

Silicone oil is great but does not last so long, ordinary 10W-40 motor oil is also very ok to use as long as there are no plastic gears, as well as ordinary sewing-machine oil. I received a bottle of Teflon grease from LokShop today that I will also try to use on gears and such... But as Juan Carlos says, the Märklin oil is not what it used to be and will eventually turn into "glue"...

Maybe our Greek members can advise on what brands to use from the local hobby/hardware store... The thing to remember is that pure "mineral oil" can be harmful to plastic gears. A synthetic motor oil is much better in this case (and cheaper)...

The US guys usually recommend "LaBelle 108", but I haven't seen it available in the EU yet...

You can also try oil from Faller.Is very very good.
John

Dear all,

When I asked the Marklin guru, Kevin, when should I add oil to the locomotives he replied: "When she starts to get noisy and cranky!
When they are not running right(sluggish,more motor noise) then add 1 drop of oil to the two points of the motor Marklin suggests"!

That is the only way to avoid overoiling and it is a rule I am following ever since. I am using Faller oil exclusively and I am satisfied.

Thanos

No Juan Carlos, I did not and probably will not. Teflon is a strong, even hard material, which comes suspended in a liquid for lubrication purposes (usually for plastics). The idea alone gives me the creep (if this is the right English expression) : possible clotting danger if the suspension liquid dries out. Tell us how it REALLY works <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

Bob

Hello, I am a collector of older Marklin engines (series 800 & 3000) which I buy second hand at swap meets.It is rather often that they whave not not running for many years and that the engine appears "glued". You see that when the headlights work well but the engine does not move or very hardly when applying high voltage.Dont worry when it is the case,you can always solve the problem yourself even without totally dismantling the motor, which is not an operation I would recommend for a beginner.
You can first try to take out the body, apply some oil on the bearings and rotating parts as explained in the forum, then using a soft piece of wood (like a tooth pick) try to gently rotate the rotor through the holes of the stator. It will normally start moving progressively and more & more easily. Do never force too hard otherwise you will damage the rotor wiring. After some time of such hand rotation, put it back on tracks and it should begin to move by itself better and better. It will need some time to get back to perfect working condition, but it usually does happen - at least it worked with me.
If the rotor refuses to rotate by hand, then dismantling and thorough cleaning will be needed.

phil

Hi all

In South Africa we get a household oil called Q-All-in-One which is for sewing/kniting machines, etc., and I have found it to be very good. I still however find that the motor "bearings" get dry.
I have the 460 Swiss Lok from the Swiss start set and i found it rather noisy. I have tried all sorts of lubrication, but the above oil has sorted this Lok out. It now runs with a gentle hum.