Joined: 18/09/2005(UTC)
Posts: 502
Location: , Texas
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I was wondering who else has a 3662 Santa Fe F7? I just recently found one on Ebay. When it arrived it would not run and actually was not truthfully represented. However I did get it at a fair price. When opening her up you would not believe the mess inside. Wires out the wazoo all over the place. Someone had done some serious damage to this little lady. After cleaning her up a bit and only connecting up what was needed she actually did run. Not very smoothly but she does run and the lights work. Question is that there are 2 wires that go to someplace and I have no idea what they go to. Could actually leave them taped up and life would be good however I would like to get this little jewel back into her one upon a time perfect condition. So does anyone have a 3662 that they can open up and either post some pictures or email them to me at bobr73z28@yahoo.comI will definitely appreciate it. I could of just sent it back to the seller and got my money back but she asked to stay with me and asked for my help. So how could I say no to that? I will post some pictures, maybe someone can come to her rescue. Bob
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 Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,778 Location: New Zealand
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Bob, not a good idea to post your email address. Spam bots can harvest it, and then you'll get spammed bigtime. Look after your email address like your wallet.
Sorry, I don't have a 3662.
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 Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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Hi Bob
I have the lok , I will take the pics for you.
Please describe which wires (location, color...) are dangling so I can concentrate the pictures' details.
Thanks |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
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Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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Hello Bob As promised here are the pics...and some explanations/ clarifications The B unit in the middle contains the decoder (C80) and a booster board that provide juice to the A units motors You can identify which A units at teh color of teh healight wire , yellow or grey The C80 motor outputs green and blue are connected to the booster board The headlights outputs Yellow and Grey go directly to the respective locos headlights You can follow the green, blue and black wires to each individual motor The brown chassis "ground is connected to both the bulb's socket *and* the metal panel that carries it. Don't hesitate to ask if you need any more help.       Mar-klinically yours |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
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Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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One more detail (of some importance...): the green and blue output wires of the decoder go to the soldering pads near the Darlington transistors on the booster board.
Sorry for missing that in the previous post! |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
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Joined: 18/09/2005(UTC)
Posts: 502
Location: , Texas
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Jacques Thank you very much for taking the time and trouble to take your train apart and take some photos for me. I appreciate it very very much.
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Joined: 18/09/2005(UTC)
Posts: 502
Location: , Texas
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Here are some of the photos that I took this morning. Just wondering if anyone else has seen a mess like this before? There should be some sort of law in place that would punish people from abusing Marklin Trains! In Time I think I can get her back into an almost "New" Condition. A Unit with non standard red wire and factory yellow wire.  A Unit with non standard red wire and facotry gray wire.  B Unit with a mess of wires non Marklin?  A Unit showing Red and Yellow Wires  A Unit showing Red and Gray Wires 
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Joined: 18/09/2005(UTC)
Posts: 502
Location: , Texas
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Scratches mostly on the top of both A and B Units.  Missing Air Horn (not in Marklin Parts Illustration)  Front End View, She's a Beauty!  The Box is in good shape, well kind of.... 
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 Joined: 11/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,151 Location: istanbul,
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Joined: 18/09/2005(UTC)
Posts: 502
Location: , Texas
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A Unit underside, the unknown red wires are soldered to this piece. I do not believe it came that way from Marklin.  A Unit underside again below the motor. Missing rubbers on both some wheels. 
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Joined: 18/09/2005(UTC)
Posts: 502
Location: , Texas
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I found the Parts Illustration from Marklin on the web at this link. http://www.maerklin.de/s...r.php?artikelnummer=3662I do see that I have some missing parts but unfortunately they are not available. Missing parts 29,30 & 31. It looks like the original wiring went to these blocks for connection purposes? Looks like someone took it apart to some degree and tossed those parts. As I mentioned above in an earlier post that I finally did get it to run last night. When I received this train yesterday it was not wired and the wires were just sticking all over the place. Those old Marklin connectors were not connected at all as well as the decoders were not set correctly. One motor was locked up completely. A little Marklin Oil and some patience got it un frozen. It does run. So my question is where oh where do the Yellow and Gray wires connect to? (Pictures above). I know they are light wires but where do they go. When I reverse the train the lights do work correctly at this time.
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Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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Hi Bob,
If you need the bosster board, I still have one here as a spare.
Let me know! |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
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Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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Quote:Originally posted by Bob R<br />A Unit underside, the unknown red wires are soldered to this piece. I do not believe it came that way from Marklin. Yes it does, but it is mounted under the B unit. The small countersunk screw is used to mount the pick up shoe |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
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Joined: 18/09/2005(UTC)
Posts: 502
Location: , Texas
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Jacques, you are correct. The slider is under the B Unit. However the picture above has the same pieces for the A Unit as well. After looking at the parts diagram someone added that piece to the A Units some time in the past. I do not believe that there was a slider under each unit. So I removed that piece (for the slider) from the A Units and doing a little detective work it appears that the solder was non-factory (not clean). So now I have eliminated those two wires but need to figure out how the Gray and Yellow wire from each A Unit were connected and as to what they were connected to.
Everything on this F7 can be cleaned up. The silver paint for the trucks should not be a problem to touch up but I will have to be very careful in matching it up to the silver paint on top of the bodys. Still looking for a Air Horn for one of the A units.
Just wish there was a better wiring schematic that what is depicted on the marklin parts illustration page.
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Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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Hi Bob, Looking at your pictures it appears to me that the prvious owner kicked out the booster board and installed two separate C80s. That is why he has an extra yellow and grey wire in the A units I believe Not a good solution IMHO. If you want to rewire is "as original" just let me know, I can make even closer pics and provide a few additional details so you can "recover" the thing from its "spin" completely  |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
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 Joined: 30/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,894 Location: Keene, NH
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Bob:
A tip for touching up the silver paint...use a silver Sharpie pen!
r/mark |
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Joined: 14/11/2003(UTC) Posts: 1,443 Location: Northeast Ohio
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Bob - My dealer locally has a new one I'm sure he'd sell if you want to raise the white flag but I'm sure you'll pursue this adventure.
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Joined: 18/09/2005(UTC)
Posts: 502
Location: , Texas
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If anyone needs it, I found the part number for the Air Horns that go on top of the F7 Diesel Loco's. Marklin part number 215930.
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Joined: 11/05/2007(UTC)
Posts: 187
Location: , Sweden
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IMHO This locomotive is in real bad shape.
It's almost always better to buy a good or mint loco from start. |
Sweden & USA |
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Joined: 18/09/2005(UTC)
Posts: 502
Location: , Texas
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Caboose
<br />IMHO This locomotive is in real bad shape.
It's almost always better to buy a good or mint loco from start.
Caboose, You are correct. The only problem was that it was falsely represented on Ebay as being "Like New". I would of sent it back but it would have to go back to Canada. So I thought best that I would just keep it and tinker around with it. To my delight yesterday I cleaned the body with a little warm water and soap and it cleaned up very very nicely. All the drive parts were taken apart and cleaned. All the 15+ years of grit and grime are now gone. Everything was reassembled with new rubbers on the drive wheels and this baby purrrsss now very nicely. The only investment I have in it now is about $3.00 for 8 new traction tires and my own labor. The new horn is on order so I should have that in a couple of weeks. This train has a new home where she will be well taken care of and will get to play with my Alaska F7 and my Texas F7. It is painfully obvious that this train was abused and was not taken care of from the beginning. But she has a new home now. Bob
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Joined: 18/09/2005(UTC)
Posts: 502
Location: , Texas
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Cem,
Yes indeed, that is a electrical nightmare! Nice and clean installation though!
Bob
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