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Offline Dick  
#1 Posted : 21 January 2008 00:14:31(UTC)
Dick


Joined: 08/09/2003(UTC)
Posts: 134
Location: ,
Has anyone had experience with using WD-40 as a track or drive train cleanerconfused
Offline Caplin  
#2 Posted : 21 January 2008 01:14:54(UTC)
Caplin


Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 2,497
Location: Denmark

No, I use it as a winter coat for my motor cycle to prevent rusting. Does not harm crome, rubber or paint.

Regards,
Benny - Outsider and MFDWPL

UserPostedImage
Offline DTaylor91  
#3 Posted : 21 January 2008 01:32:47(UTC)
DTaylor91


Joined: 31/08/2007(UTC)
Posts: 414
Location: Kennesaw, GA
Based on my experience with various things mechanical and electronic, WD-40 would be my LAST choice for any of the tasks you mention. For track cleaning, the best thing IMO is a good old-fashioned rubber eraser. In art supply shops, you can even find these with varying degrees of mild abrasives mixed in. I avoid the "Bright-Boy" though, they tend to be a bit rough, and I think they were meant more for use in the days of brass-rail track. I've tried a couple chemical-based cleaners before, and while conductivity may be fine afterwards, traction was not.

I'm not sure how WD-40 would behave when coming into contact with plastic parts of a locomotive, but I'm not willing to experiment either. I know Delrin would be safe, but not sure about painted Styrene or ABS.

For drivetrain cleaning, I normally get out clean cotton swabs, and clean any gunk off that way. To re-grease anything that actually needs grease rather that oil, I like Labelle's Teflon-bearing grease.

To avoid gunk build-up, the more often a loco is run, the better (at least in my experience). Also, one important thing that is often overlooked when cleaning track: Dust and dirt. After rubbing it down with an eraser, or any other cleaner, take a gentle, dry, CLEAN paintbrush, and brush the dust, dirt, eraser bits, cat hair, hair that may have fallen out of your scalp, wildebeest hair, etc. off the track. Even better is taking a small-nozzle vacuum cleaner around with the brush to keep things from settling back down on the track.

Now, all that said, if I HAD to use some kind of spray to help blast stubborn stuff off metal parts, I'd use either of the following: Rid-Ox, by Techspray (an AMAZINGLY good contact-enhancing cleaner that I use when repairing high-end audio equipment), or De-Ox-It (but only a distant second choice). They will both clean, leave a thin coating that lubricates as well as prevents oxidation, and will not do any damage, AFAIK, to your traction tires. You will still want to oil/grease the loco normally after this.

Speaking of traction tires: NEVER use alcohol to clean them! Yes, they will track better, for awhile, then they will dry up and crack prematurely (this is one of the first things you learn when the boss is teaching you how to service a REALLY expensive tape-deck).

Hope this helps,

Don

thanks 1 user liked this useful post by DTaylor91
Offline jonquinn  
#4 Posted : 21 January 2008 01:48:15(UTC)
jonquinn


Joined: 15/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 1,591
Location: Pennsylvania
I've used it to loosen up the gears on locomotives that haven't been run in a long time. works great. generally I'll take the body shell off first so the oil residue won't collect dust on the shell, plus it gets to more of the gears.
Offline TTRExpress  
#5 Posted : 21 January 2008 04:01:52(UTC)
TTRExpress

United States   
Joined: 06/04/2006(UTC)
Posts: 655
Dick,

I have never used WD-40 on any of my locomotives. I recently cleaned a locomotive that is 53 years old and it operates as good as new!! I removed the body and used TRIX 66624 cleaner, a soft cotton cloth, and then some TRIX special grease on the gear wheels. I then used TRIX special oil very sparingly on the other mechnical parts that require them as per your locomotive instructions.

Regards (a Scottish Highlander in Wisconsin)
Regards (a Scot in Wisconsin),

Maurice [ETE, TTRCA, IG-TRIX Express, Maerklin-Insider & TRIX Profi-Club]
Offline laalves  
#6 Posted : 21 January 2008 05:13:36(UTC)
laalves


Joined: 10/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 2,162
Location: Portugal
I have and thouroughly recommend it for Märklin lok overhauls.

When I had the time, I did some work (100+ loks) for my dealer, digitising and repairing. Whenever they were well used, I dismantled them fully and dipped the parts in a WD-40 bath. After 1 - 2 hours the parts were beautiful, shiny and clean.

Be aware though, that it should be cleaned after the cleaning process and before reassembly.

I thoroughly unrecommend lubricating Märklin loks in anywhere other than the motor commutator axle journals (3 and 5-pole motors), despite what Märklin states in the manuals, regarding 40 hours lubrication in the wheel axles.
Offline Bob R  
#7 Posted : 21 January 2008 07:20:20(UTC)
Bob R


Joined: 18/09/2005(UTC)
Posts: 502
Location: , Texas
I would be very hesitant to use WD40 for anything other than starting a car after you washed the engine or removing sticky goo from labels and stuff. WD40 stands for Water Displacement or something like that. It was conceived by a couple of Aviation Engineers many years ago. Caution it will turn gummy over time. That is exactly what you do not want in a Marklin Motor or anything.

I read the history about it a while back. Let me research my old emails and see if I can find it.

Bob R
Offline Bob R  
#8 Posted : 21 January 2008 07:21:34(UTC)
Bob R


Joined: 18/09/2005(UTC)
Posts: 502
Location: , Texas
I think I this is it.

In 1953, a fledgling company called Rocket Chemical Company and its staff of three set out to create a line of rust-prevention solvents and degreasers for use in the aerospace industry, in a small lab in San Diego, California.

It took them 40 attempts to get the water displacing formula worked out. But they must have been really good, because the original secret formula for WD-40—which stands for Water Displacement perfected on the 40th try—is still in use today.

Convair, an aerospace contractor, first used WD-40 to protect the outer skin of the Atlas Missile from rust and corrosion. The product actually worked so well that several employees snuck some WD-40 cans out of the plant to use at home.

A few years following WD-40's first industrial use, Rocket Chemical Company founder Norm Larsen experimented with putting WD-40 into aerosol cans, reasoning that consumers might find a use for the product at home as some of the employees had. The product made its first appearance on store shelves in San Diego in 1958.

In 1960 the company nearly doubled in size, growing to seven people, who sold an average of 45 cases per day from the trunk of their cars to hardware and sporting goods stores in the San Diego area.

In 1961 the first full truckload order for WD-40 was filled when employees came in on a Saturday to produce additional concentrate to meet the disaster needs of the victims of Hurricane Carla along the U.S. Gulf coast. WD-40 was used to recondition flood and rain damaged vehicles and equipment.




In 1969 the company was renamed after its only product, WD-40.

WD-40 Company, Inc., went public in 1973 and was listed Over-The-Counter. The stock price increased by 61% on the first day of listing.

Since that time, WD-40 has grown by leaps and bounds, and is now virtually a household name, used in numerous consumer and industrial markets such as automotive, manufacturing, sporting goods, aviation, hardware and home improvement, construction, and farming.

In 1983, WD-40 Company sales reached $50.2 million. Many companies attempted to introduce imitation products, going so far as to copy the distinctive blue, yellow and red colors of the WD-40 can.

In 1993, WD-40 Company celebrated its 40th anniversary by breaking the $100 million sales mark. That year the company was also listed among the Top Ten Most Profitable companies on the NASDAQ exchange. Not bad for a company with only one product!

WD-40 was found to be in 4 out of 5 American households (it seems everyone has a can or two) and was used by 81 percent of professionals at work. Sales had grown to more than one million cans each week.

The most interesting piece of WD-40's history is the uses for the product, now numbering in the thousands. The uses include everything from silencing squeaky hinges and removing road tar from automobiles to protecting tools from rust and removing adhesive labels. But they get a lot crazier than that.
Offline RayF  
#9 Posted : 21 January 2008 12:21:25(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,839
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
If you have a really gummed up loco, a burst of WD40 will loosen it up and it will run beautifully for a while, but you should really open it up and wipe all the parts down to avoid accumulations which will turn gummy again.

If you get it on the track, it will attract dust and dirt and your digital locos will stop dead on that bit of track until you clean it off properly, so beware!

In short, only use it when desperately trying to get that old loco to run!

Ray
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
Offline David Dewar  
#10 Posted : 21 January 2008 13:41:53(UTC)
David Dewar

Scotland   
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 7,341
Location: Scotland
WD 40 is not great for traction tyres.

David
Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
Offline hemau  
#11 Posted : 21 January 2008 21:51:16(UTC)
hemau


Joined: 09/01/2007(UTC)
Posts: 589
Location: The Netherlands
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by laalves
I thoroughly unrecommend lubricating Märklin loks in anywhere other than the motor commutator axle journals (3 and 5-pole motors), despite what Märklin states in the manuals, regarding 40 hours lubrication in the wheel axles.

I have an opposite opinion. You should lubricate loks very poor but the wheel axles definitely need some lubrication too. I bought a nicely serviced 2-nd hand BR 96 a few months ago, test-ran it and after some 15 min. one of the driving axles got so stuck that I could turn the wheels of that axle, not the axle itself (the lok would not run anymore at that time). Apparently this one axle was not lubricated, got so hot that it jammed in its bearing. After cooling down and lubricating a little, it ran well again and is doing so ever since.
Regards, Henk
C and M track; CS1R and 2 MS
Offline intruder  
#12 Posted : 22 January 2008 01:23:08(UTC)
intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
Thanks for the WD-40 story, Bob.

I have (some time ago) been using it for years, to loosen rusty bolts and nuts etc.

I agree with laalves. It is great for cleaning, but you have to wash it off afterwords.
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
Offline Macfire  
#13 Posted : 22 January 2008 03:02:44(UTC)
Macfire


Joined: 04/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,652
Location: New Zealand
There is also CRC Electrical.
Been a while now but if I remember correctly was more suitable for electrics than the standard CRC 5.56.
Lord Macca
New Zealand branch of Clan Donald.
Offline Bob R  
#14 Posted : 22 January 2008 03:57:06(UTC)
Bob R


Joined: 18/09/2005(UTC)
Posts: 502
Location: , Texas
Tony,

I agree with the CRC Electrical Cleaner. I work on cars quite a bit and am always in need of something to degrease all sorts of stuff with. I have been using Brake Cleaner (from a automotive supply store) to degrease and clean just about anything. On top of that it dries quickly and does not leave a residue. Caution though, do not get it on painted parts or rubber or plastic. Other than that it is an excellent cleaner / degreaser.
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#15 Posted : 22 January 2008 06:22:41(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,663
Location: New Zealand
I've used CRC 5.56 on my tracks to clean then with no issues. I've also used WD40 on some of the moving parts on my M track turnouts again with no issues.
Offline Purellum  
#16 Posted : 22 January 2008 07:25:27(UTC)
Purellum

Denmark   
Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,505
Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse
We use WD40 for a lot of things at work, we buy it in 5 liters containers.

Our mechanic says it is vaste of money, he says it is just Kerosene with a nice smell.

I dunno. biggrin

Per.
If you can dream it, you can do it!

I, the copyright holder of this work, hereby release it into the public domain. This applies worldwide.

In case this is not legally possible:
I grant anyone the right to use this work for any purpose, without any conditions, unless such conditions are required by law.

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Offline nevw  
#17 Posted : 22 January 2008 09:32:57(UTC)
nevw

Australia   
Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC)
Posts: 11,071
Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
Electrical Contact Cleaner another good standby.
N
NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders
and a hose pipe on the aorta
Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around
Offline hxmiesa  
#18 Posted : 22 January 2008 12:04:26(UTC)
hxmiesa

Spain   
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,520
Location: Spain
I use WD-40 on the forge-iron door/gate at the entry to my house ;-)

Actually, I used it just a few days ago for the FIRST time with the train, but I cant remember what for. I do seem to recall that it worked ok, and that particular problem was solved...
Best regards
Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain")
http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
Offline steventrain  
#19 Posted : 22 January 2008 17:57:12(UTC)
steventrain

United Kingdom   
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC)
Posts: 31,606
Location: United Kingdom
I have never use WD-40 for model railway.

It is use for the doors, etc.
Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
Offline laalves  
#20 Posted : 22 January 2008 22:55:34(UTC)
laalves


Joined: 10/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 2,162
Location: Portugal
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by hemau
<br />
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by laalves
I thoroughly unrecommend lubricating Märklin loks in anywhere other than the motor commutator axle journals (3 and 5-pole motors), despite what Märklin states in the manuals, regarding 40 hours lubrication in the wheel axles.

I have an opposite opinion. You should lubricate loks very poor but the wheel axles definitely need some lubrication too. I bought a nicely serviced 2-nd hand BR 96 a few months ago, test-ran it and after some 15 min. one of the driving axles got so stuck that I could turn the wheels of that axle, not the axle itself (the lok would not run anymore at that time). Apparently this one axle was not lubricated, got so hot that it jammed in its bearing. After cooling down and lubricating a little, it ran well again and is doing so ever since.
Regards, Henk

Well, I would bet that your axle didn't need lubrication, most likely it was simply dirty and it got stuck due to it. Carpet fibers, dog hairs, all sorts of crap go into the wheelsets. Then, people tend to think their loks require lubrication.

My experience tells me that you need to do is to clean things thouroughly and that's it.

Remember we're not talking high speed rotational movements, except at the motor shaft. That's why one should lubricate that spot. I use a single, tiny drop of Märklin oil, whenever I hear a very distinct squeak.

All oil one puts into the undercarriage of a lok will ALWAYS get into traction tires and track, creating lots of problems.

I would consider lubricating the wheels of an ICE running all day, though. The wheels spin quite fast, and after a couple of hours, the axle journals will heat up, attrition coefficient will rise, more heat will build up and abnormal wear comes up.

Loks that run 24 hours a day in dealer's layouts should also be CLEANED and lubricated.

Oiling a normally used Märklin lok in the wheels is unnecessary and damaging to the layout. It will also attract grime, dirt, dust, hairs and then you get into a spiral of oiling + crap buildup + oiling again and when you notice it, all your loks and track will be swimming in oil.
Offline dntower85  
#21 Posted : 23 January 2008 00:09:49(UTC)
dntower85

United States   
Joined: 08/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,218
Location: Shady Shores, TX - USA
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Bob R
<br />Tony,

I agree with the CRC Electrical Cleaner. I work on cars quite a bit and am always in need of something to degrease all sorts of stuff with. I have been using Brake Cleaner (from a automotive supply store) to degrease and clean just about anything. On top of that it dries quickly and does not leave a residue. Caution though, do not get it on painted parts or rubber or plastic. Other than that it is an excellent cleaner / degreaser.

I use CRC Electrical Cleaner and Brake Cleaner all the time.
but only use the stuff in the red can. What ever CRC uses in there environmentally friendly Green can eats plastic on contact. I guess that why its Green, it breaks down plastic.wink
DT
Now powered by ECoS II unit#2, RocRail
era - some time in the future when the space time continuum is disrupted and ICE 3 Trains run on the same rails as the Adler and BR18's.
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