Joined: 01/10/2004(UTC)
Posts: 200
Location: Lisbon, Lisbon
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Hi there. I'm starting to lay down the C-Track of my layout, after some contruction and preparation. I'll start with the shadow station. I'll be using C-Track, some of them with a few years from temporary floor layout. I'm wondering if i should make a real cleaning job on the tracks, including the roadbed (well... don't ask me why  ). Remember that the shadow station will not be easly reachable after the constrution ending. The question is: can i use alchool to clean it? Does that put some issues on the roadbed? Thanks. Pedro. |
Pedro Rosa. Linda-a-Velha / Lisbon, Portugal. My Layout (Marklin, C-Track, Digital) |
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 Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,181 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
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I use lighter fluid on the track. Don't know about the bed. By the way, it is not wise to make any part of layout hard to reach. I have about a short section of two parallel tracks (about 50cm long) that is hard to reach, and that is where most of my problems occur. |
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Joined: 01/10/2004(UTC)
Posts: 200
Location: Lisbon, Lisbon
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:By the way, it is not wise to make any part of layout hard to reach. Maybe i should explain it better: it's "harder" to reach than the top layer  All the layout will be reachable, but much more dificult to make a good job cleaning the tracks in the future in a shadow station. When you say "light fluid" what do you mean? Thanks for your reply. |
Pedro Rosa. Linda-a-Velha / Lisbon, Portugal. My Layout (Marklin, C-Track, Digital) |
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Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,181 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
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Lighter fluid is the fuel you put in a cigarette lighter. It is very volatile and is a great degreaser. (I gave up cigarettes in 1971 but still find uses for the fluid. ). I sometimes use "Goo-Gone", which is a citrus based cleaning agent, when the tracks are extremely dirty, but then finish with lighter fluid since the Goo-Gone leaves a film on the tracks. I have a track cleaning pad on a long plastic arm (I think from Viessmann) that helps reach difficult places to clean. |
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Joined: 12/05/2005(UTC)
Posts: 1,908
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by rschaffr
I have about a short section of two parallel tracks (about 50cm long) that is hard to reach, and that is where most of my problems occur.
Must be that Murphy guy  |
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Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,181 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
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No. just designing without thinking ahead. [:I] I have learned from that incident. |
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Joined: 01/10/2004(UTC)
Posts: 200
Location: Lisbon, Lisbon
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by rschaffr
I have a track cleaning pad on a long plastic arm (I think from Viessmann) that helps reach difficult places to clean.
I have it, too That will be usefull in the future. As you understood, my "problem" was the cleaning *before* laying the track. I was never a smoker and i now understanding that in the future that will be an handicap, regarding the construcion of my layout |
Pedro Rosa. Linda-a-Velha / Lisbon, Portugal. My Layout (Marklin, C-Track, Digital) |
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Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 2,497
Location: Denmark
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by rschaffr
<br />...I have a track cleaning pad on a long plastic arm (I think from Viessmann) that helps reach difficult places to clean.
Beware, This could be the start of a new "uncoupler" topic But fearless I ask you: Do you happen to have the part number, please [:I] |
Regards,
Benny - Outsider and MFDWPL  |
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 Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Caplin
<br />But fearless I ask you: Do you happen to have the part number, please If it is the same one as I have, then it is 7840.
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Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 2,497
Location: Denmark
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Regards,
Benny - Outsider and MFDWPL |
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 Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC) Posts: 11,071 Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
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I use Metholated Spirits and a Brass Wired "Tooth Brush" for real dirty track |
NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders
and a hose pipe on the aorta
Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around |
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 Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand
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I've been using a product from Peco called the the Peco Rail Cleaner. It looks like a pencil eraser, only a bit more abrasive, and you rub it down the length of the track. Seems to do a good job of cleaning, although you need to follow up with a brush to remove any leftovers.
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Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 6,764 Location: Brisbane, Australia
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I purchased from my local Marklin dealer, a packet of Noch track cleaning pads, that clip on to a Marklin HO guage wheelset. They are brilliant, as I can put one pad on each train. It cleans the track automatically each time it is running. The set of 5 pads cost AUD$6, which is a bargain. The Noch part number is 60157. Next time, I will buy 5 sets, so I always have plenty on hand. I guess you could soak the pad in alcohol (from the bottom of the glass , lighter fluid, tea-tree or eucalyptus oil (both are Australian products available at the chemist or apothecary), or even a light kerosene (or heating oil). I have also used the track rubber like Bigdaddy (both Fleischmann and Marklin make good ones), but I think the Nock cleaners will save me having to do this often. regards Kimball |
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge. |
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Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 6,764 Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Here are pictures of Noch 60157 1. The part # 60157  2. It is easy to clip on to axle  regards Kimball |
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge. |
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Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,181 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
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Kimball: Yes, I have used them. I have a set for my smaller era III layout, but my main layout is so large that they don't retain enugh cleaning fluid to be effective. I also have a Centerline car that does a pretty good job and the Lux cleaning car that works great but can't get through the area in question due to clearances (it is too wide and I have a catenary pole too close to the track) |
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Joined: 01/10/2004(UTC)
Posts: 200
Location: Lisbon, Lisbon
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Thanks for everyone posting! As allways, this is the place to get very good information. Like i said, this firt "cleaning task" is for tracks that are being used on floor layouts for some years and are now being given it's final destination ... so, it's a musch more easy job! I didn't mention that for the day-to-day operations i plan on using some stuff that was mentioned on this topic and a Lux Cleaning car. For removing dirt i think that's a great product. (like saind before on other topic). Thanks again. |
Pedro Rosa. Linda-a-Velha / Lisbon, Portugal. My Layout (Marklin, C-Track, Digital) |
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Joined: 04/12/2006(UTC)
Posts: 338
Location: Doylestown, PA
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Those Noch track cleaning pads are pretty cool....
One could theoretically attach these pads to one of the glass container cars (that can actually hold liquid), fill up the glass container with cleaning fluid, then run a very small diameter tube from the glass container stopper down to the pad, securing it somehow. If the tube were small enough in diameter, you should be able to "feed" the pad through capillary action. Ideally, the tube should about the same diameter as the tubes which are used on HPLC machines. Perhaps hobby stores have small enough flexible tubing.
If this could be done, the pad would not run out until the glass container ran out. Visually, you would know when the glass container was running low. You would then only have to replace the pad after so many "hours" of use because it would get too dirty to be effective.
Unfortunately, I do not own the glass car, the Noch pads, nor do I have an operating layout!!!
Just tossing an idea out there!
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Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,181 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
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Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 3,997
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if you live in the USA, another option is to order one (or more) of my crud-b-gone track cleaners... see http://crud-b-gone.mixmox.comI say USA only because its just not worth my time doing international shipments and customs declarations etc. It just for the rails though, not the roadbed... |
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Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC) Posts: 880 Location: Augusta, GA USA
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I'm sure many will disagree but I use acetone on a rag on my M track. Cheap and I have never seen any ill effect. Don't know about on plastic C track though.
Eric
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Joined: 01/10/2004(UTC)
Posts: 200
Location: Lisbon, Lisbon
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by biotechee
One could theoretically attach these pads to one of the glass container cars (that can actually hold liquid), fill up the glass container with cleaning fluid, then run a very small diameter tube from the glass container stopper down to the pad, securing it somehow. If the tube were small enough in diameter, you should be able to "feed" the pad through capillary action. Ideally, the tube should about the same diameter as the tubes which are used on HPLC machines. Perhaps hobby stores have small enough flexible tubing.
I'd like to see it working! The ideia is pretty cool. |
Pedro Rosa. Linda-a-Velha / Lisbon, Portugal. My Layout (Marklin, C-Track, Digital) |
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 Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,594 Location: Spain
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Am I the only one in the world without crud-problems on the tracks???
I never clean the tracks. I dont run any cleaning-waggons.
I DO see some (light) build-up of crud, in some punctual spots, but never bothered to remove it
What I DO get, is a heavy build-up on the wheels! All waggons and locos gets fat black "tires" of rubber-like crud, which I scrape off with a piece of wood or plastic.
Nobody else get the build-up on the wheels rather than on the tracks?? |
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Joined: 06/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,345
Location: ,
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I've had the crud on wheels problem with used stock - thought one wheelset on a 4259 coach looked a bit odd, when I investigated there was a layer of a rubber-like substance a good 1mm thick. Scraped that off and dealt with the other wheelsets too! |
Matt from Wales.
When you pay Range Rover prices, don't accept Lada quality |
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Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,181 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
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Henrik: You probably don't have a problem because you run analog, if I recall. I have a lot of cleaning options but frankly I don't need to use them very much. I do have one problem spot in a very awkward place that I can't seem to get clean, though. Yes, I have bought some used wagons with significant buildup on the wheels, but have not seen too much of that on my rolling stock. Perhaps that is somehow related to analog operation? I don't really see how, but I recall that when I ran analog I used to have to clean the wheels periodically. |
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Joined: 04/12/2006(UTC)
Posts: 338
Location: Doylestown, PA
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Be careful with prolonged exposure of solvent based cleaners on C-track (the road bed). If you use too much solvent to clean the road bed, you can melt the plastic.
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Joined: 01/10/2004(UTC)
Posts: 200
Location: Lisbon, Lisbon
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by biotechee
<br />Be careful with prolonged exposure of solvent based cleaners on C-track (the road bed). If you use too much solvent to clean the road bed, you can melt the plastic.
That's what i'm afraid regarding C-track cleaning and the reason for starting this kind of topic again (other topics didn't meantion the roadbed). Regarding the amount of time beetween cleanings i really don't know, since only now i'll be starting to lay the track. But from floor layouts i usually clean all tracks after finishing the layout, because i allways have some tracks where something goes wrong. I suppose that floor layouts will allways have more dirt. Pedro. |
Pedro Rosa. Linda-a-Velha / Lisbon, Portugal. My Layout (Marklin, C-Track, Digital) |
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Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,594 Location: Spain
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by rschaffr
<br />Henrik: You probably don't have a problem because you run analog, if I recall. Hans, that´s very interessting! I never thought about that. Now, that makes me think... You know; I use 24Vdc for train detection. Could that have something to do with it also??? (Explanation details; I have the 0 (brown) of all the Mä trafos connected permanently together to the "-" of a 100VA 24Vdc powersupply. For detection-tracks, the isolated rail is connected to one side of a 2KOhm resistor (PLC transistor entry), which is connected to +24Vdc.) |
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Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 6,764 Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Regarding crud (very good word that ) on wheels. My experience is that metal wheels don't get it, only plastic wheels. Is that your situation Henrik? regards Kimball |
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge. |
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Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,181 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
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I have cleaned thick layers of crud off of metal wheels. |
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Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC) Posts: 11,071 Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
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I get a Build Up of thick crud very quickly on the ICE 1. But not to the same extent on other locos or Cars.
N |
NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders
and a hose pipe on the aorta
Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around |
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Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,594 Location: Spain
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote: Originally posted by kimballthurlow<br />Regarding crud (very good word that ) on wheels. My experience is that metal wheels don't get it, only plastic wheels. Is that your situation Henrik? Nope, all metal wheels here! When I get the chance I will investigate if (some remaining few) DC-isolated wheels gets more or less of this buildup! |
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