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Offline fbaube  
#1 Posted : 23 January 2025 13:43:05(UTC)
fbaube

Finland   
Joined: 12/08/2020(UTC)
Posts: 29
Location: Uusimaa, Helsinki
I'm new to Märklin. So far I've acquired a mix of new kit (digital starter set) and old kit (some random rolling stock bought secondhand). I'm finding a real hodgepodge of couplers. And they don't all play nicely together.

What have other folks done in this situation ? Is there a way to bring order to chaos ?

Do I want to get out the screwdrivers and knives, and try to convert the most temperamental of the old stuff to something standardized ? Or is this a fool's errand ?

Are there any good guides to identifying what coupler types I am looking at, and which of them are good to go and which ones could usefully be replaced or upgraded ?

thx from Helsinki
Offline Kiko  
#2 Posted : 23 January 2025 15:38:14(UTC)
Kiko

Canada   
Joined: 13/02/2017(UTC)
Posts: 159
Location: Ottawa, ON
Originally Posted by: fbaube Go to Quoted Post
Are there any good guides to identifying what coupler types I am looking at, and which of them are good to go and which ones could usefully be replaced or upgraded?

Hello and welcome to Marklin,

For starters, I'm attaching a well written document that provides condensed information on the various couplers in use. As a first step, you should identify what you have and then, based on your findings, plan to standardize.

Cheers,

Close Couplers for H0 Models.pdf (6,251kb) downloaded 42 time(s).
Andry
// Marklin HO K track; ECoS; TrainController Gold; Marklin & ESU decoders; Arduino controlled Switches, Semaphores & Accessories (DCC); Win 11 //
thanks 3 users liked this useful post by Kiko
Offline mbarreto  
#3 Posted : 23 January 2025 20:01:50(UTC)
mbarreto

Portugal   
Joined: 18/02/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,333
Hi,

I prefer the new Märklin couplers 72000 in case NEM pockets exist.
If there is metal relex, couple to other relax.
You may want to have few wagons with relex in one end and new Märklin in the other end. All relex to one end side and all Märklin on the other end side.

Miguel
Best regards,
Miguel
Mostly Märklin H0.


thanks 1 user liked this useful post by mbarreto
Offline LeoArietis  
#4 Posted : 23 January 2025 21:11:51(UTC)
LeoArietis

Sweden   
Joined: 07/02/2008(UTC)
Posts: 197
Location: Lindome, Sweden
Originally Posted by: Kiko Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: fbaube Go to Quoted Post
Are there any good guides to identifying what coupler types I am looking at, and which of them are good to go and which ones could usefully be replaced or upgraded?

Hello and welcome to Marklin,

For starters, I'm attaching a well written document that provides condensed information on the various couplers in use. As a first step, you should identify what you have and then, based on your findings, plan to standardize.

Cheers,

Close Couplers for H0 Models.pdf (6,251kb) downloaded 42 time(s).


Thanks for the info on couplers. Very good with the pictures showing the difference. I think you can add this to your excellent post.



Fleishman profi (flp)
+ works well with c-track uncoupling track
0 A tiny bit more forgiving to uneven track than Roco short
-The knob under may catch high pukos on k and c-track.
+ pretty good looking and one of the smaller couplers

Roco short (rs)
- it’s a hit or miss with c-track uncoupling track
- will fatigue over time
- may open under very high load


Both: flp and rs
+ Won’t catch the buffers so a very safe option
+ will not be stuck when opening the couplers
- Require considerable more force to couple than Märklin short, sometimes resulting in chasing that wagon.


Märklin new short couplers 72000
+ requires less force to couple than flp or rs
+ if coupled correctly it holds, and is much less prone to uncoupling on uneven track than the others including Relex
+ works well with uncoupling track, but Relex are the best in that aspect if you want to push the wagon with an open coupler (the hook on the latch)
0 The new Märklin short couplers is lower than the previous version but still no where nearly as low as flp or rs
- sometimes it may still be stuck when uncoupling
- the opposite sometimes happens, couplers stuck but is not locked and it will be a nasty surprise when it suddenly becomes unstuck, specially on an uphill slope or in a tunnel
- if the loops are at the exact same height it won’t lock
Current layout:
http://www.svensktmjforu.../index.php?topic=10990.0
The former project:
http://www.svensktmjforu...forum_posts.asp?TID=1097
With Pictures and trackplans, but in Swedish
Transitation-curves in C-track:
https://www.marklin-user...9-on-75-cm.aspx#post9281
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by LeoArietis
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