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Offline einotuominen  
#1 Posted : 01 September 2024 15:12:50(UTC)
einotuominen

Finland   
Joined: 19/09/2022(UTC)
Posts: 459
Location: Kaarina
Hi guys,

Check this video

https://youtube.com/shorts/H0kJ7ou9GE8

So one of my locos stopped running. The motor was actually quite new because I converted this from Delta little over 6 months ago.

From the beginning there were times when the loco seemed jammed but started running with a little push. I thought there was something in the gears. Gears move freely thou, without the motor.

So now the loco won’t move anymore. Sounds and lights work thou so decoder should be fine (gonna try to drive some basic DC motor later on thou)

Funny thing is the motor feedback… If I push the loco on the rails, I cam hear chifs and when I push it the other way, I’ll hear squealing brakes.

Anyway I pulled the motor out, took my Märklin Z DC speed controller and tried to power the motor. Nothing but sparks.

So I guess I need a new armature?

BR,
-Eino
Offline RudiC  
#2 Posted : 01 September 2024 18:48:14(UTC)
RudiC

Germany   
Joined: 28/01/2024(UTC)
Posts: 59
Location: Nordrhein-Westfalen, Aachen
Does it turn when you move the axle gear? Mayhap with the brushes / coals removed? Do brushes show normal wear? Does the collector? Current seems to be flowing looking at the sparks from wire to brush. Or is there a short circuit?
Regards,
Rüdiger (Rudi)
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Offline Paul59  
#3 Posted : 01 September 2024 19:12:03(UTC)
Paul59

United Kingdom   
Joined: 25/08/2012(UTC)
Posts: 250
Location: South East
Hello Eino,

I'm a bit confused by your video as it looks as though the motor parts are not in the chassis. The casting of the chassis has the bearing that supports the other end of the armature. The motor won't run unless the magnet, armature and motor shield are assembled into the chassis as the armature will simply jam against the magnet. With these older models the casting of the chassis forms part of the motor.

However, since you say the loco wasn't running correctly before taking it apart there must be something wrong.
Remove the brushes and the motor shield and the armature.

First check the brushes, I have had a bit chip off resulting in a pointed edge that would catch in the slots of the commutator. Have a look and make sure the ends are intact. I've only known this once but it's an easy check. They should have a nice curved inwards shape on the inner end.

Then check the armature for any signs of overheating. Sometimes this can show as scorched windings. Then look at the commutator. I have had one where one of the segments actually became detached causing the loco to lock up.

Give the parts a good clean paying particular attention to cleaning the slots of the commutator with the tip of a scalpel blade or toothpick or something similar. I had a loco just last week that suddenly stopped and there was a tiny speck of something conductive in one of the slots. I picked it out and it was fine.

Do you know how to check an armature electrically with a multi meter? If so that's always a good check as it'll give an idea if there are open windings or shorted ones.

With the motor parts out of the chassis check the chassis to make sure the wheels turn freely in both directions with no stiffness or locking up.

Finally reassemble the magnet, armature and motor shield into the chassis and try turning the wheels again to make sure the gears are engaging correctly. It will be a bit stiff as the permanent magnet tries to hold the armature still but it will turn - push the wheels on the side with the gears not the other side. This is to avoid accidentally moving any of the wheels on the axles.

Finally instal the brushes and test again before soldering any wires back on.

Good luck, you'll get there.
Marklin HO using M track. Now reverted to analogue as I find it has more character and is more fun...... and I understand it!
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Offline einotuominen  
#4 Posted : 02 September 2024 18:57:06(UTC)
einotuominen

Finland   
Joined: 19/09/2022(UTC)
Posts: 459
Location: Kaarina
Hi guys,

The brushes are good visually inspected. So is the motor cover plate and obviously the magnet.

I guess the problem is in the rotor/anchor.

I trie with multimeter but didn’t get any continuity beep from anything actually. Strange?

Here is a vide of the motor assembled and hooked to 12 volts direct DC. Nothing happens…

Any more ideas?

https://youtube.com/shor...CmwQ?si=Ct9KSSfj_2SxCfrw

-Eino

Offline RudiC  
#5 Posted : 02 September 2024 19:34:32(UTC)
RudiC

Germany   
Joined: 28/01/2024(UTC)
Posts: 59
Location: Nordrhein-Westfalen, Aachen
No continuity between armature/collector poles could indicate broken winding wires. Is that between any poles?
The sparks in the first video indicate current flow. How much is that?
Any resistance between the brushes? Should be a few hundred Ohms.
Regards,
Rüdiger (Rudi)
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Offline DasBert33  
#6 Posted : 02 September 2024 21:57:21(UTC)
DasBert33

Belgium   
Joined: 21/01/2004(UTC)
Posts: 1,272
Some more ideas: Rotate the anchor and check whether you get continuity on any of the 5 phases. If your engine needed a push before this might be an issue. If so look at where the wires from the windings are connected to the collector, check for a broken one.
Another issue that I already had with new conversions was overoiling. Exessive oil can ruin your brushes and create a short across the collector, bypassing the motor. Clean the collector with a degreaser (smoke 'oil' works great for this), replace the brushes and try again. I have had this oil issue on a few of my conversions, the brushes were not properly working after that event.
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Offline einotuominen  
#7 Posted : 03 September 2024 17:13:19(UTC)
einotuominen

Finland   
Joined: 19/09/2022(UTC)
Posts: 459
Location: Kaarina
Hi,

I found a 2nd hand replacement motor and it worked straight away. Loco now runs.

Maybe I’ll try to investigate a bit more what’s wrong with the broken one.

-Eino
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Offline JohnjeanB  
#8 Posted : 05 September 2024 18:40:16(UTC)
JohnjeanB

France   
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3,551
Location: Paris, France
Hi Eino
I cannot say I am a specialist but this is at least the second time I have a "dead" Märklin motor (one recent (2017) CAN motor and one "coffee-grinder" (HDLA- so called High Efficiency Propulsion system). All controlled by an mSD3 or a Märklin factory-fitted sound decoder.

In both cases, the motor runs and this is almost non-noticeable (at least on the CAN motor: smooth running, no noise). But since it burnt the previous decoder I checked.
The behaviour of the HDLA was different: the running was not smooth, stops abruptly and generates some current spikes.
In both cases, the problem is the elevated current that may / will kill the decoder.
The simplest is to measure the current using the MS2, CS2, CS3.
the coffee grinder should not exceed 300 mA and the CAN motor should not exceed 150 mA
Since the coffee grinder motor is open (can see the rotor) its windings do not show much (looks qute normal and not obviously burnt.
On an HDLA motor the resistance measured between collector blades at 180° shows approx 20 to 30 Ohms and 7 Ohms on the faulty HDLA
On the CAN motor, the resistance is approx 30 to 40 Ohms and less than 10 Ohms when "burnt"

This is only my personal experience so others may have different observations.

Why do I burn so many motors (26 locos operated simultaneously over a cumulated 4000 hours of operation)?
I love smooth departures and arrivals with very low speeds and the quantity of locos makes it hard to detect in time a loco in trouble (sometimes in a shed or on a lower hidden level).

My conclusion: better change a 30€ motor than a 90€ decoder.
Cheers
Jean

Edited by user 05 September 2024 23:11:09(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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