Welcome to the forum   
Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Share
Options
View
Go to last post in this topic Go to first unread post in this topic
Offline spinnerguy  
#1 Posted : 16 July 2024 08:42:01(UTC)
spinnerguy

United Kingdom   
Joined: 26/11/2023(UTC)
Posts: 32
Location: England, Stafford
I bought this controller used,and its now installed on second layout.
Trains run ,but all seem to be getting hotter than before..
There also seems to be less gradualy voltage applied ,it seems to come in surges .My wiring is slightly heavier gauge than Marklin wiring. Not sure if this is typical of the earlier controllers or not.One of the perils of buying used ...........
Offline Carim  
#2 Posted : 17 July 2024 17:58:38(UTC)
Carim

United Kingdom   
Joined: 15/09/2014(UTC)
Posts: 681
Location: London
I am not familiar with this controller, is there a longer code number associated with it or can you post a picture of it?

Carim
Offline H0  
#3 Posted : 17 July 2024 18:58:41(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,432
Location: DE-NW
I tried Google and I guess we are talking about the 37700 Z gauge controller Electronic05.
https://www.lokmuseum.de...rger%E4t%2005&Seite=
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by H0
Offline spinnerguy  
#4 Posted : 17 July 2024 21:54:16(UTC)
spinnerguy

United Kingdom   
Joined: 26/11/2023(UTC)
Posts: 32
Location: England, Stafford
Originally Posted by: H0 Go to Quoted Post
I tried Google and I guess we are talking about the 37700 Z gauge controller Electronic05.
https://www.lokmuseum.de...rger%E4t%2005&Seite=

Thats the one.......IMG_20240717_205006053.jpg
Offline Carim  
#5 Posted : 18 July 2024 10:03:43(UTC)
Carim

United Kingdom   
Joined: 15/09/2014(UTC)
Posts: 681
Location: London
Hmm...not really sure what is going on here. Perhaps you could PM Chris (Poor Skeleton) again....he's an electrical engineer and is really into how these things work.

Carim
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#6 Posted : 18 July 2024 21:51:17(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 581
Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: Carim Go to Quoted Post
Hmm...not really sure what is going on here. Perhaps you could PM Chris (Poor Skeleton) again....he's an electrical engineer and is really into how these things work.

Carim


Before I continue I should confess that I don't have any inside knowledge of these things, so there will be a fair amount of conjecture in my comments.

Firstly, though, I think we can elimniate your wiring being in heavier gauge cable from suspicion.

According to the information on page 6 of this Trainini article : Trainini this controller is not a PWM type, which was my first thought for why locomotives are running hotter.

Perhaps we can now explore under what conditions they are running hotter? Do you observe this with controllers set to maximum speed or with them set to match locomotive speed? If it's the former, then it's likely that the controller just outputs a higher maximum voltage. If the latter, though, it would suggest that the Trainini article is incorrect and this controller is a PWM design or that it features high ripple and peak voltage. This might be due to the mains being half wave rectified within the design, but could also be due to a fault with the controller - a faulty smoothing capacitor, for example.

I see the Lokmuseum description makes mention of infinitely smooth control, which implies it uses a potentiometer as it's control element. A potentiomenter consists of a strip of resistive material with a movable mechanical wiper which makes contact with it. Depending upon where along the strip the wiper is positioned, this controls the effective resistance. Anyway, it doesn't take much by way of muck build up or oxidation to affect the contact of the wiper with the resistance track and that usually results in intermittent contact as the potentiometer is adjusted. In an audio product this can cause a scratching noise when you change the volume, but in a speed controller it results in erratic behaviour of one sort or another. If you can get access to the potentiomenter you can probably fix this (at least temporarily) by squirting in some contact cleaner.

It has to be said that controller design varies enormously. Some are very spohisticated and some very crude, although performance doesn't necessarily follow sophistication. The Gaugemaster design, for example, is really quite basic but works incredibly well!

With that in mind, it's hard to say if the hot running of your locos is a feature of the controller design or if it is faulty.

All the best


Chris
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Poor Skeleton
Offline Toosmall  
#7 Posted : 19 July 2024 13:40:25(UTC)
Toosmall

Australia   
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC)
Posts: 635
Location: Sydney
A bit more info in this thread, but the link in the thread is broken.

https://www.marklin-user...894-Z-Scale-Transformers


Check voltage, no load, about 50% load/speed & maximum load/speed. Also do amps as well.

Tip: If you have a clamp meter it's easy. To measure low figures, you can loop the one wire (only one wire) through the clamp meter say 4 times, then divide reading by 4. Handy if your clamp meter that only goes down to say 1 amp etc.
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#8 Posted : 19 July 2024 23:33:43(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 581
Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: Toosmall Go to Quoted Post
A bit more info in this thread, but the link in the thread is broken.

https://www.marklin-user...894-Z-Scale-Transformers


Check voltage, no load, about 50% load/speed & maximum load/speed. Also do amps as well.

Tip: If you have a clamp meter it's easy. To measure low figures, you can loop the one wire (only one wire) through the clamp meter say 4 times, then divide reading by 4. Handy if your clamp meter that only goes down to say 1 amp etc.


Personally, I woudn't worry about the current (Amps) too much. It's not really a feature of the controller itself and is typically difficult to measure accurately.

Given the option, I'd be most interested in looking at the voltage waveform which is much more telling than the reading a multimeter will give you (which will be averaged in some, likely unspecified, way) but that's a bit specialised for most modellers.

Cheers


Chris
Users browsing this topic
Guest
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

| Powered by YAF.NET | YAF.NET © 2003-2025, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.760 seconds.