Joined: 15/09/2014(UTC) Posts: 682 Location: London
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Hi,
I had to change one of the couplings on my 88715 because one of the copper plates came off it and got distorted. Since then, the train runs perfectly in one direction but as soon as I switch direction, the lights change over correctly (front and back) but the train refuses to move. Switch back to the original direction, and everything works perfectly. If I just run the motor car with it's cab car, exactly the same thing happens - and I didn't change the coupling at this end of the train!
So I was wondering if anyone here has any ideas?
At least it was a MHI model and I have got until October before the warranty expires, but if there is an easy fix, I'd rather do that than send it back to Märklin.
Thanks, Carim
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Joined: 12/05/2021(UTC) Posts: 152 Location: Jakarta Raya, Jakarta
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Originally Posted by: Carim  Hi,
I had to change one of the couplings on my 88715 because one of the copper plates came off it and got distorted. Since then, the train runs perfectly in one direction but as soon as I switch direction, the lights change over correctly (front and back) but the train refuses to move. Switch back to the original direction, and everything works perfectly. If I just run the motor car with it's cab car, exactly the same thing happens - and I didn't change the coupling at this end of the train!
So I was wondering if anyone here has any ideas?
At least it was a MHI model and I have got until October before the warranty expires, but if there is an easy fix, I'd rather do that than send it back to Märklin.
Thanks, Carim This sounds like faulty contact problem in the motor car. I think it's better for you to get a replacement because fixing the faulty contact in ICE3 model is never guaranteed to last. |
Oka aka W. Kapriandi
Märklin Z scale (mini-club) purist but not a modeler!
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 2 users liked this useful post by wildstix
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Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 842 Location: West Texas
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Hello, hope all is well.
I have this model and it is great. I was trying to think if what could be the issue. I believe someone told me here on the forum, that any issues like this were associated with a contact failure. Those darn connectors are not well made and this accounts for the failure you have already noticed. I would check all of your connectors because there may be another one with the same issue. Have you examined the openings at the end of each wagon to see they are all identical paying particular attention to the one which damaged the connector. I know the anxiety level will rise but you might notice something.
My ICE works better on one direction better than other other and I believe my track layout has some curves which are at or beyond the recommended minimum. Since it works, I just use it in the one direction until I make some changes to my track.
This ICE model has some odd requirements, the least of which are the radius limits. The wagons must be connected in the order prescribed in the manual. Trying to get it on the track without bending or breaking something is a challenge to says the least. There really is no easy way and this may account for owners of this model placing it on a shelf for display which is a shame. Once I put it on the rails I usually leave it there for a while and just use it because it looks so good.
Having warrranty is a benefit I would take advantage of, perhaps there is some damage or wear inside one of the wagons which prevents operation of the entire string.
Let us know what your outcome is on this one. That is a great model and once working is consistent in its operation that coreless is smooth and quiet. It is hard not to think of this one as a favorite.
Take good care.
Zme
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 1 user liked this useful post by Zme
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Joined: 15/09/2014(UTC) Posts: 682 Location: London
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Hi Dwight, I think that you are correct. If I take out the one unpowered wagon (I only have a 4-car unit) and just run the motor car with two cab cars, it works perfectly. So that wagon is not transmitting power from the cab car back to the motor car (although the lights work in it). I played about with it all afternoon but so far to no avail  . I will have another go over the weekend. When I ever get it working again, I am not going to take it apart and will store it permanently in a "TrainSafe" tube. Carim
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 2 users liked this useful post by Carim
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Joined: 15/09/2014(UTC) Posts: 682 Location: London
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Hi, Just to complete this story. Having narrowed down the fault to the one unpowered, 2nd class car, I found that the fault was that the contacts running from the bogies to the bottom of each coupling were not actually making contact with the couplings. I tried to bend them up a bit more so that they made contact, but this did not work and I was worried that the thin metal might snap. So my solution was to get some very thin copper tape, cut it into shape and wedge that in between the contact and the coupling in order to complete the electrical circuit. It worked! So now I have an ICE3 that runs backwards and forwards - it's really nice  . But I am never taking it apart again! Carim
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 4 users liked this useful post by Carim
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