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Offline einotuominen  
#1 Posted : 29 December 2023 08:14:09(UTC)
einotuominen

Finland   
Joined: 19/09/2022(UTC)
Posts: 382
Location: Kaarina
Hi guys,

I wonder what happened to my Märklin Z rails? After glueing them down to the cork roadbed, part of the rails went all dark. Multimeter states that it is conductive, but loco won’t go over.

I did manage to get it off with just a single very light pull with a diamond file (don’t hang me please) and everything works now.

Just wonder what happened?

Photo below.

BR,
Eino

IMG_4328.jpeg
Offline Carim  
#2 Posted : 29 December 2023 08:37:45(UTC)
Carim

United Kingdom   
Joined: 15/09/2014(UTC)
Posts: 653
Location: London
What type of glue did you use?

Carim
Offline einotuominen  
#3 Posted : 29 December 2023 09:38:41(UTC)
einotuominen

Finland   
Joined: 19/09/2022(UTC)
Posts: 382
Location: Kaarina
Originally Posted by: Carim Go to Quoted Post
What type of glue did you use?

Carim


I used regular white PVA for indoor use.

-Eino
Offline JohnjeanB  
#4 Posted : 29 December 2023 10:44:22(UTC)
JohnjeanB

France   
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3,126
Location: Paris, France
Hi Eino
Often, Stainless steel may oxydize under certain conditions (probably in your case a mix of glue and water).
Hopefully the rail joiners still offer good contact.

The positive side is that it gave your track a much more realistic looks. All you need to do is clean the top surface of rails using a model train eraser for cleaning the tracks.
The key points are:
- leave no residue on the track
- is not abrasive to create groves which will help accumulate dirt and dust.
Cheers
Jean
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Offline einotuominen  
#5 Posted : 29 December 2023 11:30:32(UTC)
einotuominen

Finland   
Joined: 19/09/2022(UTC)
Posts: 382
Location: Kaarina
Originally Posted by: JohnjeanB Go to Quoted Post

Often, Stainless steel may oxydize under certain conditions (probably in your case a mix of glue and water).
Hopefully the rail joiners still offer good contact.


I guess I have to use less glue then! It was a bit much on this section, I have to admit.

Trains ride good now that I managed to clean the track.

-Eino
Offline Toosmall  
#6 Posted : 29 December 2023 11:45:29(UTC)
Toosmall

Australia   
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC)
Posts: 616
Location: Sydney
I also use PVA thinned out with a bit of water & a few drops of dish washing detergent to make it wetter.

First do a mist spray with atomiser, with a drop of detergent in the water. This wets the surface. Then drip the PVA diluted mixture on the ballust.

Then wipe rails. A day later I clean rails with wet & dry 1200 grit. No need to be too fussy polishing the top of rails.

IMG_8728.jpg

IMG_1480_centre_114124.jpg
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Offline Copenhagen  
#7 Posted : 29 December 2023 12:20:50(UTC)
Copenhagen


Joined: 23/04/2019(UTC)
Posts: 375
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
When you have applied the dry ballast you can also spray it with some rubbing alcohol (using an atomizer of sorts). This will make the ballast glue application much easier. The alcohol will wet the tracks and later evaporate and shouldn't cause corrosion. (I used ready made ballast glue which of course is more expensive).
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Offline spinnerguy  
#8 Posted : 29 December 2023 13:11:26(UTC)
spinnerguy

United Kingdom   
Joined: 26/11/2023(UTC)
Posts: 25
Location: England, Stafford
I have also put mine down on cork,but used thin double sided tape. Then pinned down each section with Marklin pins. Used a toffee hammer to knock them down!
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Offline Zme  
#9 Posted : 29 December 2023 17:32:22(UTC)
Zme

United States   
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC)
Posts: 768
Location: West Texas
Hello, hope all is well.

When I ballasted my track, in addition to the comments provided, I suggest using the thinned glue, but apply it with an eye dropper. There is no need to get the glue all over the metal rails. The glue on the rail ties will hold it in place. A few nails here and there are useful also if applied according to the warnings on the package. Add just a few consistent drop between the rail, and the drops seem to spread out when they hit the ties. If it doesn’t seep to the outside of the track where you need it, just add a few drops to the inside again and then outside until it is all the same damp color.

The gentle use of the eye dropper might take a bit longer, but will also keep the ballast from get washed out in the large bare circles.

You might find parts of track that don’t seem to be in contact with the railhead surface, in this case you might want to add more ballast. Resist the solution of adding a heavy weight to this section because the Marklin track is thin and delicate and may flex away and this may might account for a lose of contact area when your locomotive passes.

Ballasting requires cleaning after, but this way you should have less cleaning to do. If the bare spots are still created, just add bits of ballast to hid them again and a bit more glue. It seemed in some areas, the ballast stuck to the side of the rails especially on the inside. It is impossible to clean and will cause a big mess if you try to clean it before it dries. Just inspect your job and I used a dental type hooked tool to just flick this off. Roll a wagon over the entire track to disclose these small obstructions. Watch if the wheels break contact with the track then look closely you will find something.

I do like the look created, but most use a rust colore paint on the side of the rails. Might be a more long lasting effect.

Ballasting is certainly a job, that is why some consider the plastic rokuhan ballasted track, but it really does not look as good, in my opinion.

Best wishes on your project, hope my suggestions are helpful, don’t worry you will get it right. Take good care. Happy new year everyone! Great topic!

Dwight
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Offline einotuominen  
#10 Posted : 29 December 2023 22:45:07(UTC)
einotuominen

Finland   
Joined: 19/09/2022(UTC)
Posts: 382
Location: Kaarina
Thanks guys for the tips with ballasting. The process is of course something I’m already familiar with H0 both C and K track.

I’m going to use Woodland Scenics B1375 Grey Fine Ballast.

Oh, here’s a video of train running a full loop first time today. Some of the sub structure is still temporary, so I can adjust the grades.

?si=rTSNt2al4IZO5lRU


BR,
Eino
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GlenZme
Offline Zme  
#11 Posted : 31 December 2023 06:21:28(UTC)
Zme

United States   
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC)
Posts: 768
Location: West Texas
Hello, hope all is well and Happy New Year!

If you are able to purchase Woodland Scenics, the produce I used was their Scenic Cement. It is described as perfect for ballast. It says it has a wetting agent in it.

Take good care.

Dwight

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Offline Poor Skeleton  
#12 Posted : 01 January 2024 15:45:06(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 553
Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: Zme Go to Quoted Post
Hello, hope all is well and Happy New Year!

If you are able to purchase Woodland Scenics, the produce I used was their Scenic Cement. It is described as perfect for ballast. It says it has a wetting agent in it.

Take good care.

Dwight



I'm a great fan of the Woodland Scenics products - I've had some excellent results with them!

Cheers (and Happy New Year!)


Chris

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