I have just got another old 3050, the price was right and I couldn't help myself. Analogue. This is the SBB C class Ae 6/6.

It runs smoothly, reverses nicely and works both on track and catenary power. A nice, heavy loco.

But...there appears to be a problem.

When power is cut, for example when running onto an isolated section, it decelerates slowly rather than coming to a reasonably brisk halt. None of my other locos do the same.

This behaviour (though quite attractive) can obviously cause problems on automated isolated sections which are adequate for everything else.

I have opened it up and the wiring is a mess with bits of insulating tape everywhere. Having said that I cannot see how this would create such behaviour.

Does anyone have a picture of the insides of a traditional 3050? I'm reluctant to rewire it because it works and not sure if it will make any difference but keen to avoid head on collisions particularly if the other train is plastic!

Any ideas? Have you experienced this?

As I remember it, the 3050 is one of those loks that just likes to fly right through a signal block. I have a few other loks that will do the same. One I can remember is the old TEE with LFCM. I like it and it has forced me to lengthen my blocks to 3- 3 1/2 full track sections. If I'm running fast they can still fly through.
I recently had trouble with a newer Br50 DCM analog. It was too tight. At 1/2 power it would barely move! Even after bending the brush springs for less pressure. As a last resort I cut the brushes in half. Now she runs at the lowest voltage and coasts freely to a stop just like the old Br44.
I would leave it as is. You're probably opening a can of worms.
Mikey

Hi Mikey, 3-3.5 tracks? We don't have that kind of space on this small island!

On my layout the isolating blocks are further complicated by the second contact track that turns the signal contact track off as the coaches with lighting pick ups pass over it, only to be turned back on later down the track.

As I get older I forget what I have done and how...

Hello Michael, lovely loco, I like that one. It is quite a beast as I understand the real ones were/are too!

Unfortunately I can't see how to post pictures on here although I have just taken some of the wiring. It appears that you have to have the pictures on the web first.

Anyway, the wiring is pretty standard so just copy any analogue electric loco from a similar period.
Up until the 1966 catalogue entry the 3050 was wired for directional lighting (mine is) but after that it wasn't mentioned anymore so I assume they reverted to conventional wiring with both lights always on.

Directional lighting does reduce the motor power slightly as the bulb takes its power through the field winding that would normally be dead in that direction. This negates part of the magnetic field created by the other field winding. This is possibly why Markliin stopped wiring them that way.
With directional lighting the wires from the bulbs are soldered to the tags on the reverser where the wires from the field magnet are soldered on. Otherwise they would go to the common solder point which I guess would be the contact on the back of the overhead/track supply switch.

Mine does coast on a bit but two isolated track sections are usually plenty. The large armature acts as a bit of a flywheel.
If you are running from the overhead and have both pantographs raised then that effectively 'shortens' the isolated section of the overhead by the distance between the two pantographs.

It could just be that the brushes are worn down and thus shorter than normal. This will effectively reduce the tension of the springs a little bit.

This is an easy loco to re wire as there is lots of room inside.
If yours is too much of a mess I would probably remove all the wires and start again. It's a good opportunity to clean clean everything up.

Hi
I am not sure that this isn't very close to the factory wiring. The only point where I have doubts is the bulb wiring with black insulator / wire (I believe not from factory)
Inverting the lights was made possible by the light conduits (one bulb per extremity) and on LFCM with was deemed possible.
One thing I am absolutely certain of is that the light inversion wiring is NOT the cause of the slow breaking behaviour.

Cheers
Jean

Hi Paul,

Many thanks for the pictures, I'll have a good look at the pictures and compare. Mine does not have directional lighting and I'll keep it that way. I take you point about copying anything of roughly the right age.

Thanks to you and Jean for your suggestions

Michael