Hello, hope all is well.

That sure is a nice set you have. We have chatted about the TEE several times here on the forum, but never about this issue. I am sure you have checked your connectors to make certain they are not binding and a moving freely from side to side.

It is possible this tilting is caused by the fact you have two engines and in between all of the wagons. One is pushing when the other is pulling and vice versa.

I have noticed most locomotives have a direction which it travels better than the other. On the older locomotives there is an arrow embossed on the underside of the frame. I don’t know if it is correct, but I always notice, the locomotive travels better in the direction of the arrow.

With the TEE, one motor is spinning in the optimum direction, while the other motor is spinning in a less than optimum direction. A difference in motor speed is created. This causes binding on the attached wagons as the motors are not moving the train exactly equally. The wagons may lean due to this difference, as there is pressure caused by the two engines.

This arrangement seems to have been abandoned on more recent similar models such as the newer ICE sets. There is only one motor on these, placed close to the middle of the wagons. The leaning issue is resolved on these models perhaps at the expense of less pulling power.

Just a thought, others may express some more logical opinions. You might clean your locomotives and lube them, perhaps moving them closer to identical will help. Check your wagons and clear lint from the wheels etc. Otherwise I am not sure what would help this.

Take good care.

Dwight

Hey All,
Sorry for the delay in my reply.



Hey Dwight,

I sure love the set, it s a real beauty. The couplers have been checked they all "go" like they should.

Your idea about the motors has crossed my mind as well, and I did notice it in some cases. Too bad with such sets, is that one motor is always running backwards. I was wondering -since the set has diodes per direction- if it would be a thing to add a small value resistor between the diode and motor, thus delivering a small amount less current to the front motor, while in reverse -due to the diodes- it would still get the normal amount of current.

The two motor idea isn t bad, if you have a good set and it adds to the torque. I can imagine the ice 3 struggling to pull a full prototypical consist with only 1 motorcar?

The set has been cleaned recently and is clean, I think it s good practice to always start there.

Thanks for your thoughts!




Hey Carim,

Thanks for the suggestion, but the issue with nuding them is them popping out again after exiting the next turn, thus having the same issue all over. The bogie and body thing could be an issue, but I m wondering what a good way to test may be.

Kristof

Is that for a Z gauge unit?
The item he is having problems with is a Z gauge VT601.

It also happens with the ICE, but a bit left & right from what I have noticed over the years. My solution is to look at the train from the side!
ICE.mov (2,462kb) downloaded 149 time(s).

Failing that, sweeping curves everywhere, it looks better anyway, including in stations.

P.S. Solder a bit of wire across the diodes (or replace), so each engine is powered directly from the track. As long as you don't have short dead sections of track for block sections etc.

Hello, hope all is well.

If you are referring to the 211903 motor, some have experienced times when the motor surged picking up speed without a change at the controller. I have had these installed in a freshly cleaned and lubed loco and the motor run hot for no reason. I have noticed when trying to start to run in one direction there is no response, but if the direction is switched to the other, it moves. I know all of these issues could be explained as over oiling, or excessive bogie resistance or broken or worn parts.

It is one of the most common 5 pole motors used for Z. I noticed the commutator on the new motor, instead of copper it is a solid steel looking surface. I don’t know if this causes issues, or if it is a budget decision which reduces manufacturer costs. Perhaps these old engines would all be this way, but were replaced by the core-less. They were, like many, sourced out of country and I believe quality may have varied a bit.

I think all in all, 211903 is comparable to any other motor and could possibly be a solution for you. Unfortunately they are now in short supply and those that have any, are asking premium prices (like most everyone now).

I see one currently on eBay going for $99.00, where previously they were about $35.00. Stock at most hobby supply businesses has been depleted so they are not a source.

Hopefully you can keep your two three pole motors going. Don’t over oil and change the brushes from time to time. I polish my commutators and occasionally use a bit stiffer material to ensure the surface is even and smooth. The big box hardware seller carry a 2000 grit material which is foam backed, and I just cut it into small strips looping it around the commutator. A couple of spins on the shaft and it polished up real nice. A bit of air will blow off any remnants. I have seen some put the shaft on a drill and give it a few spins, but that might take off more than needed. (Makes me nervous to do it this way).

Hope this helps. Merry Christmas and Happy Holiday to you and everyone.

Take good care.

Dwight

Hello, hope all is well. Happy New Year to you and everyone. I am not certain I recognize any of my motors as the steel type. Are those the older ones?

Thanks for the tip, but I am a bit timid about using a material which may ignite or is actually designed to do so. I can see where this is actually a good solution for some as I have read about it being used here on the z forum often. I think I even reported about the Loc Doctor using lighter fluid to fix your locomotive while you wait at many of the meets organized around Germany. ( I wonder if he still does this). This would be amazing to watch. This brings to mind the cleaning liquid (SR 24) being used in a flat tray container with the track connected and immersed in it. In the liquid, the locomotives come clean just running forward and reverse a few times. I just haven’t decided on that one yet either.

It only takes a few spins on the motor to clean and smooth it. I don’t do this all the time, but I think it helps, without causing excessive wear.

When it comes to cleaning there are numerous solutions. I think the risky total breakdown with the parts being put into sonic cleaner is a good one, but not for the motor. I say risky because one never knows when a part will go missing. I understand cleaning the motor is suggested as long as the liquid is dried before use. I just don’t know about this for our small motors.

Thank you again, I appreciate you.

Take good care in this New Year!

Dwight