A bit like Z gauge, you may have to cut & solder.



I did manage to avoided cutting, but it took an awful lot of calculating at the design stage and a few comprises. With hindsight a bit of cutting would have been better. Which I did anyway across module joins as planned.

Good points.


I will iterate, in Z the adjustment catenary I always reduced to the minimum length where possible, ie parallel curved tracks. Fixed length on outside curve and reduced length on adjustable catenary on inside radius.

Always use the shorter spans where possible.

Just build lead in sections of catenary at tunnels properly first time. I have soldered mine to solid over engineered metal structure, some spare Z gauge rail bent at the end through the PVC tube tunnel portals, as I would have to otherwise destroy the layout to rebuild these sections of catenary.

Have plenty of spares. In masts alone I have over 30 spares, maybe gone a bit overboard, but catenary is something you accidentally damage while doing mundane modelling tasks like cleaning. I have taken out 6 masts in one go.





If you do not put the effort in and get the "foundations" right you will have endless frustration.

I also specifically designed the mast position outside the tunnel to be in a position to be easily replaceable if I happen to squash those ones.

Don't try to save money on catenary by increasing spans, it will bite you on the bum later.

Hello Frank,
Thanks for your question.

I am talking about the current catenary/mast sytem available from Märklin.
Märklin do a 360mm straight and I have used it in a few areas but am not that happy with it. It can bow sideways a bit.
I think in about 10 years I have had 2 or 3 snags because of the sideways shift.
To be honest that happens because an adjacent sliding adjustment catenary has slipped and allowed one mast to shift out of position awkwardly.
The other straights range from 142mm to 253mm and these have given me no trouble.
The adjustment catenary which allows you to rig up any length is 231mm + whatever you cut from another length.

I dont know how Viessmann works. Maybe it is the same principle where you have fixed sections like Märklin.
There is one system where the wire is under tension, maybe that is Sommerfeldt.

What I like about the Märklin system is it is robust, that has been proven many times to me.
When you bang, poke or hit it with something (it happens) it all springs back into position very well.
But I believe you need to spend time on following the instructions and position the masts accordingly.
It took me nearly a year to complete my catenary system on a layout where it took only a week to assemble 95% of the trackwork.
I had a stroke when I was halfway through the catenary exercise, otherwise it probably may have taken me a quarter of the time.
However, the rehabilatory assistance of installing the system was probably priceless.
Because I was using my brain and my arms and fingers.
As was making bread from scratch!!

When I started I purchased the Märklin catenary starter kit that had everthing- jigs, instructions, basic masts and catenary etc.
I believe it is no longer available, but the jigs are - 70012 and 70011.

regards
Kimball

This is great info!

Also, well done on your recovery after your stroke - must have been so difficult. It shows you have strong will power. Wishing you the best for your health

Hi Eddie,

I never shortened any of my catenary sections (regardless of radius) until I came to a turnout (if catenary on both main and branch) or crossing (if catenary on both tracks).
Nor did I shorten for where a straight track (tangent) joins a curve track. The standard catenary length can work fine across the transition from straight to curve.
The explanation below may help.

Within my 30 odd metres of catenary, I used only about 3 or 4 of the 70231 adjustment sections.
If you follow the Märklin instructions for setting up catenary, you start the first post at the toe (front) of a turnout (any turnout where you want catenary on main and branch track).
That means you start one way along the track, and the other way along 2 tracks (one main, and one branch).
And then you place each post to suit the catenary length, according to the post mounting jig supplied by Märklin.
It is quite involved.
(You do NOT place posts to match track joints, you place posts to match catenary length).

You do not cut the catenary sections until you get to another turnout or crossing, and only then do you likely need another 70231.
(It would be rare for post spacing to exactly match the track joints).
Setting up the posts is the critical bit, they have to be almost perfect (which means + or - 3mm).

regards
Kimball