Hi there,
I’m new to the forum after just purchasing my first 2nd hand starter set which I’m going to use as a base for my first ever model railway layout (I’m no stranger to trains as I’m currently a Train Driver in the UK).
I’ve designed my layout using Scarm and I’ve attached a photo. As I’m new to this hobby I do have a couple of questions regarding the crossover piece 8559. I used one in my design and I’m having trouble knowing if and where I should include part no. 8993 - Reverse Loop tracks x3. As you can see from my plan I’ve included two of these but don’t know if I need them or not and even if they’re in the right place. As a newbie I’ve tried to keep it simple and only used manual switches. I know I’ll probably have more feeder points but just wanted some advice from some of you more experienced members.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I know my way around a Class 168 DMU in my day job but this is all new to me 😳
Forgot to say that the highlighted yellow section is the raised higher level and goes over the 8566 switch in the bottom right of the layou

Agree.

Solder wire to the side of the rail if you are confident with a soldering iron. It looks a lot better. Track feed about every 2 metres and either side of points just incase the points are a bit temperamental.

I have had trouble with crossovers, unless they are perfectly flat I have had trouble with carriages derailing. My current layout I avoided them together with curved points.

You do not need reverse loop circuit on this layout.

Gradients, avoid them if possible. Raise all the track and design the scenery to give the appearance of gradients. If you do have to have a gradient, 2% maximum. If you have enough length for less gradient, use it all, no point having a level run up then 2%. Raise the upper track & lower the lower track to the percentage of the length of track you have on the two levels.

HI and welcome to the forum!
Nice layout idea, regarding gradients my Crockodile has trouble with even the 2% grade when pulling only a few wagons. I shimmed the backside of my layout to give a 2% grade to test things out.

Thanks, will take your advice onboard regarding gradients, I was hoping to avoid the tracks going over the top of the other but just couldn’t get the design to work.

Thanks Dwight,
These links look full of great info, I’ll have a read through, just what I needed

You don't need to go overboard with feeding power in, but just every few metres or whatever is convenient. Nickel has four times the resistance of copper. Also if there is a dodgy connection you simply have backup power feed to the rails.

Butcher's paper & drawing out Z 1:1 scale with a pencil works well. A strip of cardboard with a hole for pivot point & holes for distances of 195 & 220mm radiuses etc to make a compass, a nail or another pencil for pivot point.

I personally like to see the layout drawn to the built scale. Then you can write on the "master" plan all the RLs (relative level) for gradients at regular intervals so you don't have to build it twice. Every minute you put into a plan will save ten fold avoiding stuffups.


I don't want to make things more complicated. Just a thought, rather than a crossing if you have one loop going around twice, so you will need a bridge or tunnel, you could have 3 sections & 2 trains chasing each other. Easy enough to do with 3 latching relays & 3 track 8589 switches.

The Japanese (but made in China) Rokuhan track is very good, it has a track bed (like H0 C track) and the turnouts can be isolating or not, as you wish. The crossing and double slips can also be isolating and along with the addition of a much larger variety of track pieces makes it a very good choice for z gauge track. Using their connection plugs feeds can be inserted in almost any straight piece.

However, they don’t do ‘circuit’ tracks which are the ones Märklin have with the treadle switchs operated by passing locos to facilitate automatic block working, neither do they have isolating track pieces, relying on plastic fishplates instead. . They do have remote control uncoupling track pieces but are they are very expensive compared with Märklin ones.

You can combine the two types of track but it doesn’t look good because one has a built up grey track bed and the other open black sleepers (ties if you are outside the UK).

It is disappointing that Märklin didn’t progress to a z gauge C track and indeed have traction tyres like Rokuhan and some North American producers have for their locos.

ChrisG