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Offline Toosmall  
#1 Posted : 24 February 2022 12:47:38(UTC)

Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC)
Posts: 617
Location: Sydney
For architectural models it is critical to get the RLs (relative level) correct. So I start off working out the lowest RL for the model, then often allowing a bit extra height clearance. In general it's probably not the best method for a train layout, but it is an option, but track gradients need to be right if you are using them.

Apart from correct heights, architectural models need to look crisp. Like those new sharp buildings in those architectural TV shows.

The quickest way is to place carbon paper (you can still buy it) on the base and place the Survey on top and trace all the required heights. Roads, key land forms, boundaries & building footprints.

Then cut all the vertical spacers and usually hotglue in place. Usually 2mm Forex (expanded PVC)


Next hotglue down the road and land. Steep surfaces curving in different directions are a pain in the neck. Often these can be cut in a way using boundaries to hide joins.


Now the footpaths are stuck on top 1mm Forex which is more flexible and can hide joins in the first layer better. Once the buildings are made then cut a hole to fit them into the base, remembering that you need to get the correct height for every building, but you would have already calculated that.


Mask the layout to paint roads, gutters, footpaths, surrounding land, site land as the colours are required.


I always make the site a seperate plug in piece as it is easier to work on separately than bending over the model. Also the actual building plugs into that so that is seperate. Apart from being easier often saves a lot of masking as you can paint all the pieces separately. Often models come back for changes so you want to make life easier.


This is 1:500 the surrounding buildings are simply block, but the site building does have glazing, a pain in the neck at 1:500 scale.

I do recommend that if you are planning a new layout, draw it out to the scale you are building, even if you have to do it by hand. If you need a large radius. Get a strip of cardboard and stick a pencil and a nail, for the pivot point, or second pencil will do. To make a large compass.

Whatever time you spend drawing up your layout you will save 10 fold avoiding stupid mismeasurements including heights, gradients, clearance, enough space for roads and fitting in trees. Trees will hide a multitude of errors!
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by Toosmall
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