 Joined: 05/09/2014(UTC) Posts: 676 Location: NEW HAMPSHIRE, Somersworth
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Has anyone installed lighting in the Marklin 26610 passenger cars? If so how did you remove the tops to access the insides?
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 Joined: 18/11/2008(UTC) Posts: 495 Location: Oakville, Ontario
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Originally Posted by: rhfil  Has anyone installed lighting in the Marklin 26610 passenger cars? If so how did you remove the tops to access the insides? I haven't installed lighting in such as set, but the following may help you: The Marklin website shows the 26610 can utilized the lighting set 73150. The instructions for lighting set 73150 shows how to open coaches that this kit fits. Here's the 73150 Manual:  73150 Manual.pdf (451kb) downloaded 51 time(s).Hope this helps, Harold.
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 1 user liked this useful post by Crazy Harry
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Joined: 09/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 431 Location: Stockton, CA
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Not too sure about those particular coaches: I had the same set, and heard they may have been made by another manufacturer while the locomotive was genuine Maerklin. Either way, I never figured out how to open them and eventually sold off the set late last year. I’d be interested in hearing what others have to say.
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 Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 945 Location: Sydney, NSW
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Hi all, The 73150 manual is a typical lighting installation manual and won't solve how to open the end cars, it isn't documented in the 26610 manual either. The buffers on the end cars have to be removed. For those interested I have installed lighting in this train set, please read my article below. 26610 LED LightingLink corrected 31-12-2024 Edited by user 31 December 2024 04:21:13(UTC)
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Ross
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5 users liked this useful post by Ross
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 Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,563 Location: Paris, France
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Hi rhfil Originally Posted by: rhfil Has anyone installed lighting in the Marklin 26610 passenger cars? If so how did you remove the tops to access the insides? First, the cars open very easily by removing the rubber intercirculation pieces at each extremity of the cars. At each train extremity, you must remove the 2 buffer on each side. WARNING: those cars are extremely fragile. The bogie skirts rotate mechanism is very very delicate. When the set was produced Märklin advised to use the lighting sets with bulbs and light conduit. In fact it is not exactly made for those (bending the body slightly) and I ended up installing self adhesive LED bars (12 VDC 5 m long on the internet) coupled with tiny light regulators modules on each car and current conducting couplers. Here is my Henschel-Wegmann train with the BR 61 controlled by Rocrail The loco railings are also very fragile Cheers Jean |
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Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 3,997
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Originally Posted by: Ross
For those interested I have installed lighting in this train set, please read my article below.
as usual, very well documented and presented ! Do you have any tips on how to make the loco of that set actually run acceptably? I swapped an analog Lady C for the set and the loco pickup shoe just does not seem to do its job. The fact that Märklin included two pickups (for K and C track!) suggests they could not get them to work either. |
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Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 945 Location: Sydney, NSW
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Thanks for your comment Dale. I don't have any running issues with my 26610 set but I know c-sine locos are sensitive to voltage issues so clean track, loco wheels and collector shoe are required for good running. I don't know about the two collector shoes supplied but can only say that C-track tends to wear out collector shoes from my observations where as K-track doesn't have the same problem. Originally Posted by: DaleSchultz
as usual, very well documented and presented !
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Ross
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1 user liked this useful post by Ross
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,563 Location: Paris, France
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Hi Dale Originally Posted by: DaleSchultz Do you have any tips on how to make the loco of that set actually run acceptably?I swapped an analog Lady C for the set and the loco pickup shoe just does not seem to do its job. The fact that Märklin included two pickups (for K and C track!) suggests they could not get them to work either. Yes the slider of the BR 61 is specific and a separate slider was included for those using another track type (I cannot tell the difference between the 2 but never used the other one.). With this loco I never had the slightest current pickup issues or running issues BUT - the slider pressure (Flüsterschleifer) is very light (very flexible) and corroded studs may cause issues. Make also sure the slider is very straight. The positive side is that almost no slider wear takes place. - the loco can be put on rails only by using the re-railing ramp. - because I use C track I may have missed the riding issues you have. On C track on all track pieces no issues. Not related to that loco (BR61) but I remember having to "trim" studs on triple switches and double curve ones (not all of them, only one or 2) to avoid axles touching them and creating a very quick short circuit (very annoying in digital). Also make sure that the bizarre way the loco body is attached to the frame, works smoothly. Cheers Jean |
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1 user liked this useful post by JohnjeanB
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Joined: 05/09/2014(UTC) Posts: 676 Location: NEW HAMPSHIRE, Somersworth
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Thanks for all the detailed replies. I will try to open up one of the carriages to see if it can be done without damage. Wish there were a detailed description of exactly how to do that. The secret sounds was very interesting. Might try that with the loco edit feature of my CS3. Thus far the loco runs smoothly.
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Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 3,908 Location: Michigan, Troy
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I didn't begin a new thread so as not to bump this one behind, and current conducting couplers are part of it. Maybe a tip so others are aware of a possible problem.
I have two of each older 10-5/8" and 11-1/8 inch intercity cars. They ran fine with the 7021 couplers. I exchanged them for the rigid drawbar type between two so I can store them in pairs. I needed two of the 7021's so i could do the same with my Rheingold TEE/Helvetia sets which had the rigid drawbar type.
Now the Intercity cars derail at R1 curves on the trucks where the rigid ones are, so I will need more of the 7021's.
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Joined: 05/09/2014(UTC) Posts: 676 Location: NEW HAMPSHIRE, Somersworth
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I looked more closely at one of the middle cars and discovered that the door outlines at each end were not, as I thought, decorative, but could be removed and that allowed the entire roof to be removed. That may allow me to install lighting without removing the interior which it is difficult to replace. Will try that next.
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Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 945 Location: Sydney, NSW
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Hi Dale/All, Dale raised the question of two collector shoes and I read the instructions and found there is a long shoe for M-track (brass) and a short collector shoe for K + C track (thin stainless steel). And on further searching I have found my M-track collector shoe and placed it in the box so it won't be misplaced. My take on this is the stainless steel collector shoe won't wear out on K or C track. Originally Posted by: DaleSchultz
The fact that Märklin included two pickups (for K and C track!) suggests they could not get them to work either.
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Ross
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1 user liked this useful post by Ross
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,563 Location: Paris, France
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Originally Posted by: Ross Dale raised the question of two collector shoes and I read the instructions and found there is a long shoe for M-track (brass) and a short collector shoe for K C track (thin stainless steel) Hi In my Henschel-Wegmann 26610 set, both sliders have the exact same length  Cheers Jean |
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Joined: 05/09/2014(UTC) Posts: 676 Location: NEW HAMPSHIRE, Somersworth
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If you look in the manual on page 60 you should see two different sliders, a longer 101 192 for M track and a shorter 100 032 for K and C track.
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1 user liked this useful post by rhfil
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