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Offline DTaylor91  
#1 Posted : 01 May 2021 02:43:15(UTC)
DTaylor91


Joined: 31/08/2007(UTC)
Posts: 400
Location: Kennesaw, GA
Recently acquired a 26830 Rotary Snowplow set (Cheap too!). I am very pleased with it, except for one thing: The blade on the plow not only turns too fast, it goes instantly from 0 to Warp 2 instantly. The website below turned up in a search of this site for modification info:

http://www.web-hgh.de/in...gh.de/p02_ma_26830_u.htm

Now, I could have been lazy and dumped the entire site into Google Translate, but I do not trust its accuracy at all. My knowledge of German being very limited (Mostly just musical terms and the labels under the hood of my car), I have no way of knowing how correct the translation would be, and most importantly, if some important detail was lost in translation.


So, could someone fluent in German and English run it through a website translator and tell me how accurately it translates?
I am skilled enough in electronics to build the circuit from the schematic alone, as well as adding it to the snowplow, but details on how to adjust and calibrate the thing are beyond me. Also, I'd like to know if this modification still allows the use of the BR52 in the set as I currently am running it: I have the Snowplow and BR52 set to the same address, and, since the functions available on my Mobile Station do not overlap from one unit to the other, controlling both loco and snowplow in the same "window" on the Mobile Station is quite easy.

Thanks in advance!
Online bph  
#2 Posted : 01 May 2021 12:10:28(UTC)
bph

Norway   
Joined: 04/08/2018(UTC)
Posts: 364
Offline Unholz  
#3 Posted : 01 May 2021 14:01:37(UTC)
Unholz

Switzerland   
Joined: 29/07/2007(UTC)
Posts: 1,295
Location: Switzerland
DeepL delivers the following translation of HGH's instructions. Doesn't sound too bad in my opinion, but I am not an electronics wizard:

Required components:

Component / Value / Supplier
1 SMD trimpot 10 kOhm (imprint: 103/14) e.g. Conrad-Elektronik
1 SMD trimpot 500 kOhm (imprint: 204/25) e.g. Conrad-Elektronik
3 SMD resistors 10k e.g. Conrad-Elektronik
1 SMD electrolytic capacitor 10 µF /16V e.g. Conrad-Elektronik
1 breadboard drilled e.g. Conrad-Elektronik
SMD solder e.g. Conrad-Elektronik

The wiring diagram was originally made by "Bärchen". However, it contained a small error, which I have now corrected with this picture. (...) The picture shows the inner workings of the snow blower with the housing removed.

Work to be done:
To remove the housing, please turn the blower over and carefully place it on a soft surface. Then loosen the bottom screw - on the underside in the middle - with a small screwdriver. Turn the slingshot over again and remove the housing upwards. Keep the screw well !!!!!

Then loosen the retaining screws of the decoder board. Carefully turn the decoder over. If possible, do not kink any of the existing connection wires.
Use a pin to carefully remove connections 3 and 4 of chip 701.22 from the solder pad. To do this, insert the needle sideways under the connection pin, heat it with the soldering iron and - when the solder melts - carefully lever up the pin with the tip of the needle. Proceed in the same way for pin 4. When levering, the needle can always be carefully supported on the pins 2 or 5 on the side.
Please work extremely carefully, otherwise the chip legs can be bent.

The other pins [2, 9 and 19] do not have to be levered off, because they are not connected further.
Solder approx. 10 cm long leads to the pins [2, 3, 4, 9, 19, 28]. Please tin the ends that are soldered to the CHIP well beforehand and cut them off with a side cutter just before the insulation.
Please solder the CHIP carefully and avoid short circuits!
Afterwards fix all wires near the chip with some hot glue and lay them underneath the decoder board in the direction of the speaker. Then turn the decoder over again and screw it onto the brackets.

The potentiometer for the motor control is soldered diagonally with both ends on the PCB. The center tap is connected directly to the wire and this then to pin 4. In the illustration this is highlighted "red".
I then glued this to a free spot on the decoder board with a double adhesive pad. (see illustration)

For the additional el. components (-see schematic-) I made myself a small board (approx. 1.0 * 1.5 cm) from a perforated snap plate, on which all components were placed, wired and soldered.
Then the first test can be done.
If everything is running correctly, then the spinning wheel can now be slowly accelerated or decelerated again using the red rotary knob on the Control Unit. The direction is then also reversed as usual with the rotary control.
The acceleration/deceleration and the maximum speed of the blast wheel can now be adjusted with the two built-in trim pots.
Option: Installation of a switchable interior lighting
This description can be read in detail on "Bärchen's" page and is not documented further here at this time.

For the final reassembly, cover the additional board with a strip of insulating tape facing upwards and carefully put the case back on and tighten the screw at the bottom.
Please make sure that no short circuits to the metal housing of the slingshot occur!!!

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Unholz
Offline JohnjeanB  
#4 Posted : 01 May 2021 16:39:38(UTC)
JohnjeanB

France   
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,646
Location: Paris, France
Originally Posted by: DTaylor91 Go to Quoted Post
Recently acquired a 26830 Rotary Snowplow set (Cheap too!). I am very pleased with it, except for one thing: The blade on the plow not only turns too fast, it goes instantly from 0 to Warp 2 instantly. The website below turned up in a search of this site for modification info:

http://www.web-hgh.de/in...gh.de/p02_ma_26830_u.htm

Now, I could have been lazy and dumped the entire site into Google Translate, but I do not trust its accuracy at all. My knowledge of German being very limited (Mostly just musical terms and the labels under the hood of my car), I have no way of knowing how correct the translation would be, and most importantly, if some important detail was lost in translation.


So, could someone fluent in German and English run it through a website translator and tell me how accurately it translates?
I am skilled enough in electronics to build the circuit from the schematic alone, as well as adding it to the snowplow, but details on how to adjust and calibrate the thing are beyond me. Also, I'd like to know if this modification still allows the use of the BR52 in the set as I currently am running it: I have the Snowplow and BR52 set to the same address, and, since the functions available on my Mobile Station do not overlap from one unit to the other, controlling both loco and snowplow in the same "window" on the Mobile Station is quite easy.

Thanks in advance!

Hi DTaylor91

The decoder in the snowplow is a function decoder with separate sound module.
The best ist to wire a mSD3 steam instead. Then you have all interactive speed and sound functions for all plow speeds, you have 6 outputs (AUX1 to AUX4 plus 2 headlight outputs you can reprogram the way you wish. The only drawback is you have to insert resistors for the LEDs (piece of cake if you ask me) and can add additional physical functions (like red/white headlights in the tender), have a whistle, crew conversations, etc
Cheers
Jean
My layout videos
latest vid
hump yard
Offline DTaylor91  
#5 Posted : 02 May 2021 23:21:11(UTC)
DTaylor91


Joined: 31/08/2007(UTC)
Posts: 400
Location: Kennesaw, GA
Unholz, thank you very much for this, I was unaware of this translator!

Others: Thanks for your input as well. I wanted to try modifying the existing hardware before buying a new decoder, plus being able to run both plow and BR52 with the MS on the same setting is a bonus.

Originally Posted by: Unholz Go to Quoted Post
DeepL delivers the following translation of HGH's instructions. Doesn't sound too bad in my opinion, but I am not an electronics wizard:

Required components:

Component / Value / Supplier
1 SMD trimpot 10 kOhm (imprint: 103/14) e.g. Conrad-Elektronik
1 SMD trimpot 500 kOhm (imprint: 204/25) e.g. Conrad-Elektronik
3 SMD resistors 10k e.g. Conrad-Elektronik
1 SMD electrolytic capacitor 10 µF /16V e.g. Conrad-Elektronik
1 breadboard drilled e.g. Conrad-Elektronik
SMD solder e.g. Conrad-Elektronik

The wiring diagram was originally made by "Bärchen". However, it contained a small error, which I have now corrected with this picture. (...) The picture shows the inner workings of the snow blower with the housing removed.

Work to be done:
To remove the housing, please turn the blower over and carefully place it on a soft surface. Then loosen the bottom screw - on the underside in the middle - with a small screwdriver. Turn the slingshot over again and remove the housing upwards. Keep the screw well !!!!!

Then loosen the retaining screws of the decoder board. Carefully turn the decoder over. If possible, do not kink any of the existing connection wires.
Use a pin to carefully remove connections 3 and 4 of chip 701.22 from the solder pad. To do this, insert the needle sideways under the connection pin, heat it with the soldering iron and - when the solder melts - carefully lever up the pin with the tip of the needle. Proceed in the same way for pin 4. When levering, the needle can always be carefully supported on the pins 2 or 5 on the side.
Please work extremely carefully, otherwise the chip legs can be bent.

The other pins [2, 9 and 19] do not have to be levered off, because they are not connected further.
Solder approx. 10 cm long leads to the pins [2, 3, 4, 9, 19, 28]. Please tin the ends that are soldered to the CHIP well beforehand and cut them off with a side cutter just before the insulation.
Please solder the CHIP carefully and avoid short circuits!
Afterwards fix all wires near the chip with some hot glue and lay them underneath the decoder board in the direction of the speaker. Then turn the decoder over again and screw it onto the brackets.

The potentiometer for the motor control is soldered diagonally with both ends on the PCB. The center tap is connected directly to the wire and this then to pin 4. In the illustration this is highlighted "red".
I then glued this to a free spot on the decoder board with a double adhesive pad. (see illustration)

For the additional el. components (-see schematic-) I made myself a small board (approx. 1.0 * 1.5 cm) from a perforated snap plate, on which all components were placed, wired and soldered.
Then the first test can be done.
If everything is running correctly, then the spinning wheel can now be slowly accelerated or decelerated again using the red rotary knob on the Control Unit. The direction is then also reversed as usual with the rotary control.
The acceleration/deceleration and the maximum speed of the blast wheel can now be adjusted with the two built-in trim pots.
Option: Installation of a switchable interior lighting
This description can be read in detail on "Bärchen's" page and is not documented further here at this time.

For the final reassembly, cover the additional board with a strip of insulating tape facing upwards and carefully put the case back on and tighten the screw at the bottom.
Please make sure that no short circuits to the metal housing of the slingshot occur!!!

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)


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