DeepL delivers the following translation of HGH's instructions. Doesn't sound too bad in my opinion, but I am not an electronics wizard:
Required components:
Component / Value / Supplier
1 SMD trimpot 10 kOhm (imprint: 103/14) e.g. Conrad-Elektronik
1 SMD trimpot 500 kOhm (imprint: 204/25) e.g. Conrad-Elektronik
3 SMD resistors 10k e.g. Conrad-Elektronik
1 SMD electrolytic capacitor 10 µF /16V e.g. Conrad-Elektronik
1 breadboard drilled e.g. Conrad-Elektronik
SMD solder e.g. Conrad-Elektronik
The wiring diagram was originally made by "Bärchen". However, it contained a small error, which I have now corrected with this picture. (...) The picture shows the inner workings of the snow blower with the housing removed.
Work to be done:
To remove the housing, please turn the blower over and carefully place it on a soft surface. Then loosen the bottom screw - on the underside in the middle - with a small screwdriver. Turn the slingshot over again and remove the housing upwards. Keep the screw well !!!!!
Then loosen the retaining screws of the decoder board. Carefully turn the decoder over. If possible, do not kink any of the existing connection wires.
Use a pin to carefully remove connections 3 and 4 of chip 701.22 from the solder pad. To do this, insert the needle sideways under the connection pin, heat it with the soldering iron and - when the solder melts - carefully lever up the pin with the tip of the needle. Proceed in the same way for pin 4. When levering, the needle can always be carefully supported on the pins 2 or 5 on the side.
Please work extremely carefully, otherwise the chip legs can be bent.
The other pins [2, 9 and 19] do not have to be levered off, because they are not connected further.
Solder approx. 10 cm long leads to the pins [2, 3, 4, 9, 19, 28]. Please tin the ends that are soldered to the CHIP well beforehand and cut them off with a side cutter just before the insulation.
Please solder the CHIP carefully and avoid short circuits!
Afterwards fix all wires near the chip with some hot glue and lay them underneath the decoder board in the direction of the speaker. Then turn the decoder over again and screw it onto the brackets.
The potentiometer for the motor control is soldered diagonally with both ends on the PCB. The center tap is connected directly to the wire and this then to pin 4. In the illustration this is highlighted "red".
I then glued this to a free spot on the decoder board with a double adhesive pad. (see illustration)
For the additional el. components (-see schematic-) I made myself a small board (approx. 1.0 * 1.5 cm) from a perforated snap plate, on which all components were placed, wired and soldered.
Then the first test can be done.
If everything is running correctly, then the spinning wheel can now be slowly accelerated or decelerated again using the red rotary knob on the Control Unit. The direction is then also reversed as usual with the rotary control.
The acceleration/deceleration and the maximum speed of the blast wheel can now be adjusted with the two built-in trim pots.
Option: Installation of a switchable interior lighting
This description can be read in detail on "Bärchen's" page and is not documented further here at this time.
For the final reassembly, cover the additional board with a strip of insulating tape facing upwards and carefully put the case back on and tighten the screw at the bottom.
Please make sure that no short circuits to the metal housing of the slingshot occur!!!
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