Joined: 31/05/2018(UTC) Posts: 62 Location: Arvada
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Well after buying expensive Marklin 601226 street lights and wrestling with the wiring scheme, I gave up. Out of 7 lights, three were duds. So I decided to try Viessmann 7190 street lamp. After reading instructions (see attached) 719089vWZ8gfC38ln.pdf (946kb) downloaded 70 time(s)., it seems that each lamp may require the 5215 power module, before I can connect it to the Marklin DC transformer. Is that the case? Anyone else using Viessman Z scale light in their layout? Any tips on wiring would be helpful.
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Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 842 Location: West Texas
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Hello
Your experiences sound like the experiences I have with the old style Markin Z lights. They are so expensive, so it is heartbreaking to lose one. I think this is always in the back of my mind when I work with them.
I have not looked at the exact model you are describing, but I can tell you, from my experience, Viessmann made the installation so much easier. I have installed a number of them, the wall sconce LED type and had excellent results.
I looked at your instructions and I think it is the same as the instructions included with my lights.
Anyway, check figure #4. At this point, you should be able to take the two lines right to your transformer accessories side connections. It will only work when the correct line is connected to the correct post. If it does not come one right away, just swap the line to the other post. You should be able to keep adding lights using the connection junctions which are available, even the crude Markin metal type ones work. You could easily check your lights in advance to make certain they work before you do your install.
I have been very impressed with the Viessmann, good length of leads, strong wire, pre-installed resistors, and re-enforced ends are great and the process of installing them is simpler than others. You should have great results too.
Take good care.
Dwight
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Joined: 15/09/2014(UTC) Posts: 682 Location: London
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I believe that the 5215 just acts as a rectifier to convert AC to DC (LEDs tend to flicker if powered by AC). So if you have a DC accessory supply, no need for the 5215.
Carim
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 1 user liked this useful post by Carim
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Joined: 31/05/2018(UTC) Posts: 62 Location: Arvada
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Originally Posted by: Zme  Hello
Your experiences sound like the experiences I have with the old style Markin Z lights. They are so expensive, so it is heartbreaking to lose one. I think this is always in the back of my mind when I work with them.
I have not looked at the exact model you are describing, but I can tell you, from my experience, Viessmann made the installation so much easier. I have installed a number of them, the wall sconce LED type and had excellent results.
I looked at your instructions and I think it is the same as the instructions included with my lights.
Anyway, check figure #4. At this point, you should be able to take the two lines right to your transformer accessories side connections. It will only work when the correct line is connected to the correct post. If it does not come one right away, just swap the line to the other post. You should be able to keep adding lights using the connection junctions which are available, even the crude Markin metal type ones work. You could easily check your lights in advance to make certain they work before you do your install.
I have been very impressed with the Viessmann, good length of leads, strong wire, pre-installed resistors, and re-enforced ends are great and the process of installing them is simpler than others. You should have great results too.
Take good care.
Dwight Hi Dwight, Thank you for your detailed explanation. I am assuming, the light would work with the 67014 Power Pack and 72730 control box. Cordially, Paul
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 1 user liked this useful post by veloboldie
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Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 842 Location: West Texas
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Hello again
Yes the Marklin controller has power for these from the yellow/gray connectors.
I imagine there is an equivalent controller which has the same features but be careful the maximum power is not exceeded. I know the Marklin unit has this under control with a limit of what it will send to these terminals.
I think that it would be a great idea to use the switch mentioned perhaps controlling power to a bank where a number of lights are connected. I am certain there are other alternatives too if you look. I found a mini toogle switch works, but then it would need to be mounted in a panel somehow.
Lights sure do add interest to a layout. Let us know how it works out for you.
Forgot to mention, the Marklin unit requires a special type “banana” connector, so if you use this panel, you will also need the connectors. They are just like the ones used on HO.
Best wishes
Dwight
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Joined: 31/05/2018(UTC) Posts: 62 Location: Arvada
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Originally Posted by: Zme  Hello again
Yes the Marklin controller has power for these from the yellow/gray connectors.
I imagine there is an equivalent controller which has the same features but be careful the maximum power is not exceeded. I know the Marklin unit has this under control with a limit of what it will send to these terminals.
I think that it would be a great idea to use the switch mentioned perhaps controlling power to a bank where a number of lights are connected. I am certain there are other alternatives too if you look. I found a mini toogle switch works, but then it would need to be mounted in a panel somehow.
Lights sure do add interest to a layout. Let us know how it works out for you.
Forgot to mention, the Marklin unit requires a special type “banana” connector, so if you use this panel, you will also need the connectors. They are just like the ones used on HO.
Best wishes
Dwight Hi Dwight, Thank you for your insight. I e-mailed Viessmann and got a confirmation that the lamp works from 10V to 16V, and my Marklin Z Power Pack generates 12 V. Will let you and others know what my experience is, once I install them on my Cortina layout. Take care, Paul
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Joined: 31/05/2018(UTC) Posts: 62 Location: Arvada
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 Wired Viessmann lights to Marklin control boxes 7230 and the Marklin Z Power Pack. Looks pretty good for the first time builder of Noch Cortina layout and Z scale train.
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 3 users liked this useful post by veloboldie
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Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 842 Location: West Texas
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Hi. Great! Lights add that special aspect to a layout. Glad it worked out.
How many lights are being controlled with the switch?
My lighting has not been controlled by a switch so I am interested in how you setup your system.
Thanks. Best wishes.
Dwight
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Joined: 31/05/2018(UTC) Posts: 62 Location: Arvada
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Originally Posted by: Zme  Hi. Great! Lights add that special aspect to a layout. Glad it worked out.
How many lights are being controlled with the switch?
My lighting has not been controlled by a switch so I am interested in how you setup your system.
Thanks. Best wishes.
Dwight Hi Dwight, From attached picture of control boxes 7230, I have a total of 10 lights, each has a on/off switch (green/yellow button). I use a separate control box for all the house lights with two grey wires. One should be yellow but I run out of the yellow colored wire. I use also two distribution strips, Marklin 72090. Hope this helps. Cordially, Paul 
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 1 user liked this useful post by veloboldie
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Joined: 09/03/2019(UTC) Posts: 15 Location: Ohio, Westerville
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These two year old posts answered a lot of my questions as I too have struggled with Marklin Z scale lamps. The wires are so delicate and break easily at the base of the lamp. I still have a few Marklin lamps left to install on my Cortina and wonder if anyone has had any luck reinforcing the wires with a tiny piece of masking tape at the base of the lamp to protecting it from breaking. Any suggestions would be helpful. I recently bought a few Viessmann lamps and they do seem sturdier. Thanks, Bob
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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I have recently bought every Brawa 4823 or similar 'gas light' I could find. Quite a few still to turn up. I am not going to, at least at this stage actually wire them in. The wires are very fine. I have poked the wires into the base, so if my list of things to do gets short enough I will actually power the lights. All you need to do is solder a slightly heavier gauge wire to the end of the wire out of the lights. Use some small diameter 1mm etc heatshrink tube. Don't use masking tape. https://au.element14.com...d-heat-shrink-tubing#top(Knocked off quiet a few people from the street putting the few gas lights in that I have) 
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 3 users liked this useful post by Toosmall
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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Sorry, double post (removed)
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Joined: 09/03/2019(UTC) Posts: 15 Location: Ohio, Westerville
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Thanks for the heat shrink tube suggestion. I may give it a try. Your layout looks great.
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 1 user liked this useful post by Bob24
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