Joined: 30/11/2013(UTC)
Posts: 23
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Hi everybody, I'm looking for advice on how to fix the gears on my Marklin S 3/6, BR 18.4 team locomotive. The gears were seizing, probably because the wheels slip a little on their axles. (Does anybody know how to fix that? Can I just put a drop of glue on the center of each wheel where it connects with he axle?) It was tricky understanding how the gears should be aligned to avoid getting stuck. I think I found it, but I’m not sure. Is there anyway to see a diagram or photo that shows the correct alignment? Finally, one of the pins has come out, I’ve put it back in and pressed firmly but when I run the loco it popped out again. See the photo below.  I’m afraid to run it again because I’m terrified to lose the shim. How can I keep this pin from popping out? Thanks for your advice! Ron
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 Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 1,204 Location: Kerikeri
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I suggest you buy some Loctite to hold that crank pin in place. Locktite is also good to hold the wheels to the axles, but when doing this you must get the alignment right. Basically, the counter weights on the wheels should all be facing the same direction or you will get the problem you might be describing. Usually the counter wights ar 90 degrees different form one side to the other. when fitting the wheels correctly, make sure the other side doesnt move out of phase. With older locos, having gears on all wheels on one side, set those first then work on the other side. Those locos with only the rear wheel driven, you have to be much more careful, but in this case, you just have to make sure they are all orientated in the same phase and at 90 dgrees side to side as described above. When using loctite, make sure it does not get into the bearing in the chassis. The crank pin on the wheel which has come loose must also be phased correctly. look at the picture below. You will see the conrtrol rod crank is slightly behind the driving crank so long as this is fairly close to the centre line axis of the crankpin, then you should be ok. https://www.google.com/s...69#imgrc=3xytzG0AuxWlxM:Dereck |
Northland. NZ REMEMBER 0228 for ä |
 3 users liked this useful post by dominator
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Joined: 30/11/2013(UTC)
Posts: 23
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thank you, this is exactly the type of guidance I was looking for. :)
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1 user liked this useful post by lewinr
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Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 1,204 Location: Kerikeri
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Your welcome. I have repaired a few like that.
I should have mentioned as well that you make sure the inner distance between the wheels is correct. If not, you will have running problems and even derailments on points. I had a BR41 which started derailing on points in the forward direction, but not in reverse. Turned out to be the front driving wheels had moved apart. Wasn't easy to diagnose the first time Í had a loco with that problem but I know now. |
Northland. NZ REMEMBER 0228 for ä |
1 user liked this useful post by dominator
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 Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,809 Location: Crozet, Virginia
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If your wheels slip on the axle they will get out of quarter with the wheels on the other side and the drivetrain will bind up and even stop, as you suspect. IMO the real fix is to remove the wheels, knurl the axle and press the wheels back on in the correct orientation. That will not only be a permanent repair but one that can be changed if you don't get it perfect on the first try. The old mechanical tricks are magic sometimes  I doesn't even have to be fancy. On my last steamer with this problem I just prised off the wheels, knurled the axles with the coarse jaws of a pair of pliers and pressed the wheels back on by hand. They have stayed in place perfectly, they will run like new for a very long time and the repair was free and required no special equipment. Well the labor of the old man excepted, of course.  |
Regards,
Jim
I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time. |
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Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 1,204 Location: Kerikeri
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Trouble is, not everyone has access to a knurling tool, whereas loctite is available everywhere, and it works very well. YouYOU CAN EVEN PRIZE IT APART IF NEED BE. Loctite doesn't wear the hole out either. |
Northland. NZ REMEMBER 0228 for ä |
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 Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,509 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
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Originally Posted by: dominator  I suggest you buy some Loctite to hold that crank pin in place. Locktite is also good to hold the wheels to the axles, but when doing this you must get the alignment right. Basically, the counter weights on the wheels should all be facing the same direction or you will get the problem you might be describing. Usually the counter wights ar 90 degrees different form one side to the other. when fitting the wheels correctly, make sure the other side doesnt move out of phase. With older locos, having gears on all wheels on one side, set those first then work on the other side. Those locos with only the rear wheel driven, you have to be much more careful, but in this case, you just have to make sure they are all orientated in the same phase and at 90 dgrees side to side as described above. When using loctite, make sure it does not get into the bearing in the chassis. The crank pin on the wheel which has come loose must also be phased correctly. look at the picture below. You will see the conrtrol rod crank is slightly behind the driving crank so long as this is fairly close to the centre line axis of the crankpin, then you should be ok. https://www.google.com/s...69#imgrc=3xytzG0AuxWlxM:Dereck Thanks for that link Derek, that allowed me to use up a little of my isolation time. I particularly liked this page for its simple and clear explanation of aspects I hadn't even thought of.
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Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 1,204 Location: Kerikeri
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Hi Alan. Thats a good article. Something I had not taken into consideration regarding the real steam locos. Luckily we don have to get the balance correct on our models becaus of such insignificant mass.
All the best From Kiwiland.
Dereck
PS dont ask me anything about electronics. My work in that respect is trial and failure. But I have got 3 sets of older tin plates carriages lit with LEDs and supplied form one pickup shoe in a goods van, and having switchable /adjustable lighting, working on both analogue and digital using the same design. |
Northland. NZ REMEMBER 0228 for ä |
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Joined: 30/11/2013(UTC)
Posts: 23
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Hi All Unfortunately now the nut had popped off the pin and is lost and I need to replace it. :(  I measured it with a micrometer and got 1.4mm, but I bought some 1.4mm nuts and they seems too small. Does anybody know the correct size of the nut for this type of pin? I'm hoping that Marklin uses some standard sizes for this across all their HO steam locomotives...
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 Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC) Posts: 623 Location: Athens
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Joined: 30/11/2013(UTC)
Posts: 23
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Costas, thanks for the fast reply.
Based on this number I was able to find that Marklin has at least 6 part numbers different types of hex nuts:
E757300, E757000, E757010, E757020, E757050, E757090
Some of the websites list the E757020 as M2 and some say M1.6, I think M2 would be too large but M1.6 might be right.
Before I order them, I just want to double-check that you think E757020 is a the best choice for this loco? Your answer sounded pretty confident... :)
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 Joined: 18/11/2008(UTC) Posts: 495 Location: Oakville, Ontario
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What is the catalog number of the locomotive? Check the Marklin site for the exploded diagram to confirm the part number of the nut.
Hope this helps,
Harold.
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Joined: 30/11/2013(UTC)
Posts: 23
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I've looked everywhere and failed to find the catalog number. I got it second hand. Any ideas where I can find it?
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Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC) Posts: 623 Location: Athens
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Originally Posted by: lewinr I've looked everywhere and failed to find the catalog number. I got it second hand. Any ideas where I can find it? What is the road No of the Loco Of course there are many variations E757050 is another strong possibility. Costas
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1 user liked this useful post by ktsolias
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 Joined: 23/10/2010(UTC) Posts: 2,061 Location: FRANCE
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This model is not the #3093 because the #3093 has no plastic brakes between the wheels, Let's say #3318 ? Is the chimney colored red white and gold ? Br 18-434 DRG ?  3083-3618.pdf (188kb) downloaded 30 time(s).Best Regards Joël |
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Joined: 30/11/2013(UTC)
Posts: 23
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So I did some sleuthing and it appears this exact loco comes from this starter set: https://www.maerklin.de/...s/details/article/29854/My loco has 18473 on the cabin (is that the "road number"?) which matches the number in this set. Unfortunately the Marklin site does not offer a detailed parts list or schematic for this locomotive. I did find this page: http://www.hfkern.gmxhome.de/index.html which appears to show many similar BR 18.3 locos, but I didnt understand how to use the table. However the link Joël appears to be virtually the same loco! Thank you Joël! Based on the diagram I need the 757020 nut, so Costas you were correct, thank you. :) While we are discussing this loco, unfortunately the sounds effects do not work. (However the lights and smoke generator do work). I already replaced the speaker itself and that didnt help. The decoder in the tender is 74460. I would love to get it working. Does anybody have any advice on how to fix it short of replacing it? If I do need to replace it, can somebody provide a recommendation for a convenient replacement? Thanks again everybody for all your help! Ron Edited by user 17 June 2020 02:21:13(UTC)
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Joined: 30/11/2013(UTC)
Posts: 23
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While I'm at it, my kids also lost one set of wheels from the tender that i wanted to replace. They look like this:  10mm x 24.7mm. The wheels from the tender in the diagram that Joël posted look different (solid and not spoked). Can anybody suggest a part number for a more suitable set of replacement wheels? Thanks again to everybody for helping
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 Joined: 04/12/2013(UTC) Posts: 2,266 Location: Hobart, Australia
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Originally Posted by: lewinr So I did some sleuthing and it appears this exact loco comes from this starter set: https://www.maerklin.de/...s/details/article/29854/My loco has 18473 on the cabin (is that the "road number") which matches the number in this set. Unfortunately the Marklin site does not offer a detailed parts list or schematic for this locomotive. I did find this page: http://www.hfkern.gmxhome.de/index.html which appears to show many similar BR 18.3 locos, but I didnt understand how to use the table. ... Ron Hello Ron, From Koll's it would seem your loco from the 29854 starter set (same loco as in 29855 starter set) is a 37184.10 I attach a copy of the exploded parts diagram: parts list.pdf (260kb) downloaded 39 time(s).Regards, PJ
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2 users liked this useful post by PJMärklin
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Joined: 23/10/2010(UTC) Posts: 2,061 Location: FRANCE
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Originally Posted by: PJMärklin Originally Posted by: lewinr So I did some sleuthing and it appears this exact loco comes from this starter set: https://www.maerklin.de/...s/details/article/29854/My loco has 18473 on the cabin (is that the "road number") which matches the number in this set. Unfortunately the Marklin site does not offer a detailed parts list or schematic for this locomotive. I did find this page: http://www.hfkern.gmxhome.de/index.html which appears to show many similar BR 18.3 locos, but I didnt understand how to use the table. ... Ron Hello Ron, From Koll's it would seem your loco from the 29854 starter set (same loco as in 29855 starter set) is a 37184.10 I attach a copy of the exploded parts diagram: parts list.pdf (260kb) downloaded 39 time(s).Regards, PJ So, in this case, the nut is 757050 .... Best Regards Joël |
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2 users liked this useful post by TrainIride
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