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Offline husafreak  
#1 Posted : 10 September 2019 19:56:24(UTC)
husafreak

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Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC)
Posts: 329
Location: California, Bay Area
Are those of you running the various eras of Marklin loco’s, 3 pole, 5 pole, and new bell shaped armature, happy with the Marklin controller for them? Smooth running, stops, starts, slow speed capability? Thanks
Offline Artologic  
#2 Posted : 10 September 2019 23:42:10(UTC)
Artologic

Belgium   
Joined: 21/08/2010(UTC)
Posts: 430
Here it depends on the marklin controller, the white one in one piece is great, but the one with the seperate black transformer is really, really bad here...
Haven t tested it on bell shaped armature locos, simply because I don t have any yet...

Kristof
Offline husafreak  
#3 Posted : 11 September 2019 05:33:36(UTC)
husafreak

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Posts: 329
Location: California, Bay Area
Thanks Kristof. I'll make sure to look for that difference if i try a Marklin controller. If I understand you correctly they both look the same just one has an internal and the other an external transformer.
Offline husafreak  
#4 Posted : 11 September 2019 06:01:18(UTC)
husafreak

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Posts: 329
Location: California, Bay Area
The only one I see for sale now is coming with a black wall wart transformer. In either a 120 or 230V option.
Offline husafreak  
#5 Posted : 11 September 2019 06:28:14(UTC)
husafreak

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Posts: 329
Location: California, Bay Area
OK I see two Marklin controllers for Z scale. One is #67271 which plugs directly to the wall. The other is the newer 67014 which uses a wall wart power supply. They both look about the same.
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#6 Posted : 11 September 2019 21:49:40(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

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Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
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Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: husafreak Go to Quoted Post
Are those of you running the various eras of Marklin loco’s, 3 pole, 5 pole, and new bell shaped armature, happy with the Marklin controller for them? Smooth running, stops, starts, slow speed capability? Thanks


I can only comment on the current controller with separate power supply (although I suspect the speed controller bit is pretty similar to that of the older model).

Anyway, it's a basic constant voltage controller, so slow speed control is poor and even at its minimum setting locos with the coreless motor will be moving fairly quickly. My main criticism is that the control is very grainy - maybe 20 speed settings in each direction so you can't really accelerate trains smoothly.

I don't know what you're looking for, but I'm pretty sure this controller isn't the answer!

Hope that's of some help


Chris
Offline Artologic  
#7 Posted : 12 September 2019 00:25:33(UTC)
Artologic

Belgium   
Joined: 21/08/2010(UTC)
Posts: 430
@husafreak, that s the thing, they look the same, but (except if this is a dodgy one) behave totally different. The one that plugs directly into the wall is quite good, but the one with the seperate transformer is real ****. No decent slow running and very dissapointing in general :-(. If it werent that I got the one that plugs in the wall directly first, I would have thought that z scale runs bad at best and would have left z scale years ago, luckily it wasn t so :-).

@Chris, thats my experience too. They are no good for running trains, a real shame. Maybe you should try to find the older one, I like it better and it "feels" better, my trains run like a treat on it...

Kristof
Offline Carim  
#8 Posted : 12 September 2019 14:06:45(UTC)
Carim

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Joined: 15/09/2014(UTC)
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Location: London
I hate to contradict everyone but I am using a 67020 & a 67013 and I must report that I am getting reasonable running. The one thing is that Märklin locos are very inconsistent in their performance and I have found that there is no way to predict which ones are going to be really good runners: old or new, 3 or 5-pole. I have run cheap Japanese bogies (use them to power my scratch built trains) and I can get really slow running with them and these Märklin controllers. I haven't yet tried the new Märklin motor but I ordered the new ICE 3 (88715) which has it.

I have an old Gaugemaster 'N' scale transformer that delivers 12v DC controlled and I might try that out on Z, although I am minded to introduce a DC/DC step down converter to bring it down to 10 or 11v DC.

Carim
Offline Artologic  
#9 Posted : 14 September 2019 01:13:15(UTC)
Artologic

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Joined: 21/08/2010(UTC)
Posts: 430
Hey Carim,

That s something that I had found out as well, even 2 models of the same type don t always run good, I have one that runs great and one that needs a bit more love and attention to run decently... Like you said, it s so different that it is indeed possible you get decent running out of the ones that don t work well here. Have you tried the older type? I m curious what you would be getting out of that one.

Kristof
Offline Carim  
#10 Posted : 14 September 2019 13:16:22(UTC)
Carim

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Joined: 15/09/2014(UTC)
Posts: 508
Location: London
Hi Kristof,

Rather than just give an anecdotal opinion, let me do some scientific testing and post the results. You will have to have some patience as I have find some time to get my layout out and set it all up.

Carim
Offline Carim  
#11 Posted : 15 September 2019 01:46:23(UTC)
Carim

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Joined: 15/09/2014(UTC)
Posts: 508
Location: London
So here is my test data.

I let each loco in the test do at least five laps of my layout first in forward and then in reverse to warm up. Then from a standing start, I got them to run at the slowest speed (without stalling) over a 30cm long flat straight.

Times using the Märklin 67020 contoller:


Model Number, Type, Time (seconds) to complete 30cm run at slowest non stalling speed
81870 , Br 111 , 8.36
88684 , Br 101 , 11.52
88432 , Br 143 , 19.62
88216 , Br 212 , 7.44
88536 , Br 120 , 8.82
88686 , Br 101 , 9.33
8879 , Br 218 , 5.89
8867 , Br 103 , 9.91
88680 , Br 101 , 12.26
88543 , Br 103 , 5.84
88587 , Br 192 , 12.33
88524 , Br 152 , 12.57
88526 , Br 120 , 17.03
88685 , Br 101 , 15.25
8854 , Br 103 , 5.87
8842 , Br 111 , 10.22
8848 , Br 120 , 8.44

Rokuhan Shorty , , 3.96
Plus UP JR485 , , 6.65

- Most models need a kick of power to start and then the power can be reduced. At a lower power setting than the start level, there is a noticeable kick in most locos but they do not move.
- I found that the models ran slower in a clockwise direction than in an anti-clockwise direction (difference roughly 2 seconds on the test stretch) - all the above times
were run in the anti-clockwise direction.
- The two Japanese models need very little power to get going, they run very smoothly and don't stall but they still can't crawl.


After these tests I had a quick go using my Gaugemaster 'N' Scale controller (from the 1980.s).

Model Number , Type , Time in seconds

Rokuhan Shorty , , 4.9
88685 , Br 101 , 47.5

The slow running performance improved for both locos. I could get the Märklin loco to go even slower for a short distance but it stalled before completing 30cm. Surprisingly, the Rokuhan Shorty didn't seem to run as smoothly with the Gaugemaster controller as with Märklin one and I even stalled once or twice. But I was so impressed with the Gaugemaster and the Märklin loco that I am now even thinking about forking out and getting one of their specific 'Z' Scale controllers.

Carim
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Offline husafreak  
#12 Posted : 15 September 2019 06:46:38(UTC)
husafreak

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Location: California, Bay Area
That’s crazy slow for the 88685! Thanks for posting those times, a lot of work for sure.
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Offline Poor Skeleton  
#13 Posted : 15 September 2019 21:31:23(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

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Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: Carim Go to Quoted Post
So here is my test data.
...


Thanks Carim,

That's really interesting and quite surprising, though my experience also is that the performance of locomotives is highly inconsistent. Having spent a lot of time disassembling, inspecting, testing and reassembling I have come to the conclusion that the 5-pole motor itself is often at fault, but the gearing itself can also be quite variable and highly sensitive to how tightly screws are fastened.

I'm also surprised that the Gaugemaster controller improves slow running so dramatically - could you let us know which model it is?

Thanks again!


Chris
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Offline Carim  
#14 Posted : 15 September 2019 22:53:49(UTC)
Carim

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Location: London
There isn't a model number on my Gaugemaster contoller (I bought it in the 1980.s and they don't make it any more) - it is just labelled "controller N/OO" and has two outputs:

- Track: 0 - 12v DC
- Accessories: 16v AC
Total loading 2.5A

I was wondering whether I should put a step-down module on it to limit the DC output to a max 10/11v. But I am not sure whether such a module would smooth the DC wave (which I believe is not what you want for slow running). A good video explaining all this:
I have seen a guy on the exhibition circuit using the GM 12v DC controllers for Z scale; he said that there were no problems with them but I really don't want to risk frying a motor. Maybe I should just spend £120 and order a bespoke Z Scale controller from Gaugemaster.

Carim
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Jay
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#15 Posted : 16 September 2019 21:31:54(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

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Originally Posted by: Carim Go to Quoted Post
There isn't a model number on my Gaugemaster contoller (I bought it in the 1980.s and they don't make it any more) - it is just labelled "controller N/OO" and has two outputs:

Carim


That's a shame - it would be instructive to fish out a schematic, if possible, and unravel how it works. I suspect it must be a bit "pulse-ey" to give that sort of slow speed performance.

I believe that some of the Gaugemaster controllers are straight DC output and those would be perfectly safe to use with Z gauge providing you're careful not to turn the control above 80% or so. I understand the controller for Z scale simply has a value change which limits the maximum voltage.

As for a voltage limiter, you could just insert four silicon diodes (1N4001, for example) in series with the output to drop the voltage by 2.5V or so. You'll need another four in parallel with those but in the opposite direction if you want to be able to control in reverse as well as forward.

I'll check out the video later and see if it makes any sense to me!

Cheers


Chris
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Offline Poor Skeleton  
#16 Posted : 17 September 2019 23:00:56(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

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Originally Posted by: Carim Go to Quoted Post
A good video explaining all this:


I've watched the video and what the guy says does make sense. The unsmoothed output behaves a bit like a PWM drive so the motor develops more torque at low speed to overcome sticktion. This will result in higher power dissipation in the motor compared to pure DC drive, but not as much as with PWM (at low to moderate speeds, anyway).

So far I've been unable to dig out a schematic for the Gaugemaster controller, but if I do manage to find one I'll report back. I'll see if I can do the same for the old Marklin controller, too. As I own a current Marklin controller, I know it's output is pure DC, so no surprise its performance at low speed is poor.

Cheers


Chris
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Offline husafreak  
#17 Posted : 18 September 2019 04:40:15(UTC)
husafreak

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Yes, that video was really interesting. Thanks for posting it. The difference between those two controllers in the video is almost exactly the difference between a Rokuhan (straight DC) and a Snail Speed (PWM) controller. Too bad the GuageMaster is not sold in a 120v version for us in the states. I also like that a singe GM unit can operate two tracks. I have been running a couple of days now with the Medvend Snail Speed controller. It is definitely more realistic in operation than the Rokuhan controller as slow speeds and gradual stops and starts are possible with the efficient bell shaped armature Marklin locos. But I prefer the "handling" characteristics of the Rokuhan controller for any other locos. It's crazy that every controller has its ups and downs. Note that the Morley in the video is praised for its small "walk around" extension, just like a Snail Speed controller! Eventually I may have a chart showing the pros and cons of each brand. It would be a great reference. I ordered an older Marklin #67271 controller with the built in transformer just out of curiosity. I'll compare it to the Rokuhan and Snail Speed when I get it. A panel mount Medvend with a nice smooth pot and large knob might be fun to try as well.
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Offline Poor Skeleton  
#18 Posted : 26 September 2019 23:09:17(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

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Location: England, Cambridge
Following on from Carim's extensive tests, I knocked up a controller designed to emulate the operation the Gaugemaster controller in the video.

There's no doubt that the slow running was slightly improved, but not enormously and I concluded that overall I prefer my standard (Constant Voltage) controller. Particularly, I felt that the speed control was "lumpy" - something I've also observed with the Snail controller.

An interesting thought, though, is that I chose to test with my roughest running loco (88132 Ludmilla) whereas Carim chose his best. I'd be interested to hear how his BR218 fared with the Gaugemaster controller. I should return the favour by testing with my best runner (88943).

Another observation that Carim made is that locos seem to benefit from "warming up" which is something I've noticed too. Is this a generally accepted phenomenon?

Cheers


Chris
Offline Carim  
#19 Posted : 27 September 2019 17:42:14(UTC)
Carim

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Joined: 15/09/2014(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Poor Skeleton Go to Quoted Post
..... whereas Carim chose his best.


Hello Chris,

Actually, if you have a look at the data again, I didn't choose the best performing loco to test with the Gaugemaster controller. The selection was made on the basis that I had packed up everything else after testing with the Märklin controller and only at the spur of the moment got the Gaugemaster out. But I think that your idea to test the worst performing loco with the Gaugemaster is a good one and I will try and do that some time.

I specifically did the warm-ups because I have hardly run my trains this year and I guess that most mechanical devices benefit from being used. I have not seen any advice from Märklin about running in but I do remember from my youth that manufacturers of UK outline stuff would suggest minimum running in times for new locos.

Carim

P.S. Nice article in CM
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#20 Posted : 28 September 2019 00:29:27(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

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Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
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Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: Carim Go to Quoted Post
Actually, if you have a look at the data again, I didn't choose the best performing loco to test with the Gaugemaster controller.


Ah yes, my mistake - I should pay more attention, shouldn't I?!

As you have probably gathered, I'm a bit obsessed with controllers and getting the best out of the locomotives (without damaging them) so please forgive me going on! The control console for my layout has speed controllers based on the current Marklin design, but with continuously variable speed control and does work fairly well. I'm currently working on an enhancement to invisibly give the "kick" needed to get a stationary loco moving, so we'll see how that works out.

I should revisit the "Gaugemaster" design and see how that performs with my better locomotives. My initial reaction was that it didn't give me enough of an improvement to persevere with, but maybe I should try and develop it a bit further to smooth out the speed control, which wasn't to my liking.

I've also been tinkering with a hybrid PWM design which operates as a (low-ish voltage) PWM controller up to about half speed and as a constant voltage one above that. This does give very good slow running (on a par with the Snail controller) and smooth speed control, but I never got the feedback working satisfactorily and I became nervous after one of my class 218s started playing up, though I now don't think that was related.

Originally Posted by: Carim Go to Quoted Post
I specifically did the warm-ups because I have hardly run my trains this year and I guess that most mechanical devices benefit from being used. I have not seen any advice from Märklin about running in but I do remember from my youth that manufacturers of UK outline stuff would suggest minimum running in times for new locos.


Well my experience says that Marklin locos benefit from a few minutes warm-up, even after just 24 hours of rest!

I remember the old hands at the model railway club of my youth talking about running in locos, but I never found mine benefited much from it - probably because I could only afford Lima (N gauge) stuff at the time.


Originally Posted by: Carim Go to Quoted Post
P.S. Nice article in CM


Thank you. I'm currently getting the layout ready for the Oxford exhibition (which I'm starting to panic about a bit) so my controller investigations are taking a bit of a back-seat for the time being!

All the best!


Chris
Offline Carim  
#21 Posted : 22 May 2021 16:45:19(UTC)
Carim

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Joined: 15/09/2014(UTC)
Posts: 508
Location: London
Sorry to resurrect an old topic but, as some members know, I have recently purchased a Gaugemaster Model PZ controller. I carried out a similar 30cm test to that I had reported in a previous post. I just used three locos that I had out and didn't give them much of a warm up. Using just the conventional control (no simulator), these were their times:

Model Number ---- Type --- Time to cover 30cm without stalling
88194 --- Br 189 --- 1 minute 4 seconds
88520 ---- Br 152 ---- 59 seconds
88481 ---- Br 185 ---- 1 minute 50 seconds

Carim
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Offline Poor Skeleton  
#22 Posted : 23 May 2021 13:56:29(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

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Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: Carim Go to Quoted Post
Sorry to resurrect an old topic but, as some members know, I have recently purchased a Gaugemaster Model PZ controller. I carried out a similar 30cm test to that I had reported in a previous post. I just used three locos that I had out and didn't give them much of a warm up. Using just the conventional control (no simulator), these were their times:

Model Number ---- Type --- Time to cover 30cm without stalling
88194 --- Br 189 --- 1 minute 4 seconds
88520 ---- Br 152 ---- 59 seconds
88481 ---- Br 185 ---- 1 minute 50 seconds

Carim


Thanks Carim,

That's really interesting and I'm impressed that the Gaugemaster controller gives such a huge improvement in slow running. I can see I'm going to have to get one for myself!

Cheers


Chris
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Offline Carim  
#23 Posted : 23 May 2021 14:19:40(UTC)
Carim

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Joined: 15/09/2014(UTC)
Posts: 508
Location: London
Originally Posted by: Poor Skeleton Go to Quoted Post
the Gaugemaster controller gives such a huge improvement in slow running.


Yes, it really makes shunting fun.

Carim

Offline husafreak  
#24 Posted : 23 May 2021 14:46:52(UTC)
husafreak

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Posts: 329
Location: California, Bay Area
Is a Guagemaster PZ a new model or older one? How does it do at higher speeds and regarding “steps” in speeds. And also if a loco stops at slow speed can you get it moving again with the controller? I found the Snail Speed controller would usually require the “hand of doom” to revive a stalled loco. I wondered if that was a by product of a PWM controller and 5 pole motors?
Offline husafreak  
#25 Posted : 23 May 2021 14:58:31(UTC)
husafreak

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Location: California, Bay Area
I would love to purchase the Guagemaster GMC-QZ four track Z scale controller but of course it is expensive as a single item and I would need a transformer to step up from USA 120v to 240v. I haven’t done any research but worry it might affect it’s operation.
Offline Carim  
#26 Posted : 23 May 2021 15:05:22(UTC)
Carim

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Posts: 508
Location: London
It is the current model (but it is a bespoke order - I don't think that they carry any in stock). As per the heading, the times are those without any stalling. Speed steps - this is where the simulator comes in - set your target top speed, then release the brake - there is a lag to get to the top speed and also when you apply the brake, to slow down. How long the lag is depends on how fast and by how much you release/apply the brake.

Carim
Offline husafreak  
#27 Posted : 23 May 2021 16:13:45(UTC)
husafreak

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Posts: 329
Location: California, Bay Area
I don't think the four track controller I am interested in has the simulator feature, just really slow knobs! So you have a different controller internally. I see that they must be ordered for production which is fine. I emailed them so we'll see what they say.
Offline parakiet  
#28 Posted : 24 May 2021 11:32:35(UTC)
parakiet

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Joined: 20/02/2017(UTC)
Posts: 82
Location: Flanders!
Yesterday I swapped my Rokuhan test track for Marklin track.
I kept the Rokuhan controller.

I can only say: everything changed!

1) safety feature of the controller: tripped twice as fast! Blink
2) Rokuhan locs derailed more on the Marklin track! Huh

I guess this is what you get when you mix "systems"
Offline husafreak  
#29 Posted : 24 May 2021 20:16:49(UTC)
husafreak

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Posts: 329
Location: California, Bay Area
This is from Guagemaster today.

“Dear Sir.

We do not produce a controller suitable for the USA, nor do we have a distributor.

On contacting our technical department, we are unsure of the performance of any of our controllers which are being used in conjunction with
a step up transformer, they may make a Hum noise or not perform as they were designed for.

Although not a four in one controller, we strongly suggest a Z gauge controller under the Marklin brand or other brand that you should be able to source locally, being designed for your mains voltage.
You may also be able to obtain a Four in One Z gauge controller from a producer that we are not aware of within the USA.

We are sorry that we are unable to assist you further.

Regards”

Too bad!
Offline Marklineisenbahn  
#30 Posted : 25 May 2021 03:08:15(UTC)
Marklineisenbahn

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Location: New York City
Quote “... we strongly suggest a Z gauge controller under the Marklin brand or other brand that you should be able to source locally, being designed for your mains voltage....” end of Quote

Well, I am SURPRISED no one mentioned TITAN 120V for Märklin Z Mini Club Made in Germany -
I am happy as hell with this monster;-)
Cheers,
Märklineisenbahn
Offline husafreak  
#31 Posted : 25 May 2021 04:28:13(UTC)
husafreak

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Posts: 329
Location: California, Bay Area
Vas is das?
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#32 Posted : 25 May 2021 12:58:52(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

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Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: husafreak Go to Quoted Post
This is from Guagemaster today.

“On contacting our technical department, we are unsure of the performance of any of our controllers which are being used in conjunction with
a step up transformer, they may make a Hum noise or not perform as they were designed for.



In the light of Carim's very positive results I am very tempted to buy a Gaugemaster controller for myself and, if I do, I also have the facilities to check it out at 115V 60Hz with a step up transformer so I will report back the results. Unfortunately, I am also a cheapskate so I will first be attempting to build a copy, but even that might yield some useful data.

Cheers


Chris
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Offline husafreak  
#33 Posted : 25 May 2021 17:57:52(UTC)
husafreak

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Location: California, Bay Area
There is a new controller from zmodell which is not available for purchase yet but I imagine it would be a great machine if released. I can’t provide a link, don’t know how , but you can look for it on the AZL Z scale forum:
Zmodell Digital Programmable PWM Speed Controller
Offline Marklineisenbahn  
#34 Posted : 25 May 2021 21:21:19(UTC)
Marklineisenbahn

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Location: New York City
Originally Posted by: husafreak Go to Quoted Post
Vas is das?


Originally Posted by: husafreak Go to Quoted Post
Vas is das?


Hi Folks,
I used to run my Märklin H0 with TITAN - and now I am back and run my Z Club models with a Titan for Z transformer. Not a single (power) problem with this setup.You have my recommendation on this one only try to find one. Pics below- Off we go to eBay...store !
TITAN Trafo For Märklin Z Mini-Club 110 V US
UserPostedImage
Offline husafreak  
#35 Posted : 26 May 2021 03:20:11(UTC)
husafreak

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC)
Posts: 329
Location: California, Bay Area
Can you describe its pluses or minuses or compare it to Marklin, Rokuhan, or Snail Speed controllers? How is slow speed, speed step smoothness, ability to handle high draw older Marklin locos? I will look up specs but that won’t tell everything. Thanks!
Offline zoooctan  
#36 Posted : 26 May 2021 16:09:47(UTC)
zoooctan

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Location: Singapore, Singapore
I placed my order for the GMC-QZ a week back. Will report back on any progress. I suspect it'll take a while to have a custom unit built and sent all the way to Singapore
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Offline husafreak  
#37 Posted : 26 May 2021 16:49:17(UTC)
husafreak

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC)
Posts: 329
Location: California, Bay Area
Well those Titan speed controllers are not available in the US right now. I couldn’t find any information at all as a matter of fact.
Offline parakiet  
#38 Posted : 26 May 2021 17:37:55(UTC)
parakiet

Belgium   
Joined: 20/02/2017(UTC)
Posts: 82
Location: Flanders!
Originally Posted by: Marklineisenbahn Go to Quoted Post
Quote “... we strongly suggest a Z gauge controller under the Marklin brand or other brand that you should be able to source locally, being designed for your mains voltage....” end of Quote

Well, I am SURPRISED no one mentioned TITAN 120V for Märklin Z Mini Club Made in Germany -
I am happy as hell with this monster;-)
Cheers,
Märklineisenbahn


First time I heard of it!
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#39 Posted : 26 May 2021 23:39:13(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

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Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 359
Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: Poor Skeleton Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: husafreak Go to Quoted Post
This is from Guagemaster today.

“On contacting our technical department, we are unsure of the performance of any of our controllers which are being used in conjunction with
a step up transformer, they may make a Hum noise or not perform as they were designed for.



In the light of Carim's very positive results I am very tempted to buy a Gaugemaster controller for myself and, if I do, I also have the facilities to check it out at 115V 60Hz with a step up transformer so I will report back the results. Unfortunately, I am also a cheapskate so I will first be attempting to build a copy, but even that might yield some useful data.

Cheers


Chris


So I've built my copy of the Gaugemaster controller (without the simulation circuit) and I have to say I'm impressed. Slow speed control is very good and control generally smooth. There is a bit of a lump in acceleration going from very slow to normal speed, but that is with my old Ludmilla which is a particularly rough runner! In my estimation, the performance is close to that of with the Snail controller.

Now I have some understanding of how it works and having looked out the output waveforms I can see no reason it wouldn't work well in the US in combination with a step-up transformer. Somewhat contrary to Gaugemaster's statement I would expect less hum rather than more as the 60Hz mains frequency in the US is gentler on the transformer than our 50Hz.

My plan now is to refit my control console with these regulators.

Cheers


Chris
thanks 3 users liked this useful post by Poor Skeleton
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