Did they run on an analogue transformer?

What happens is you put them on the programming track on the cs2 (one at a time) and do a 'detect loco'? It could well be that the address has been changed, but you say you can control the lights? Are the lights changing when you change direction?

Carlos, sounds to me like they have been standing too long. Take the body off & see if you can move any gears by applying gentle pressure to them with your finger. If it is all stiff then the old oil of that era has gummed it up & it needs servicing. Also if you can please post a photo of the loco with body off.

Hi Carlos, Looks to me via your pictures like you have a C80 decoder in both locomotives. Have a read of this please.

https://lnx.3rotaie.it/wp/?wpfb_dl=926

There is also a transparent Br80 (3000) which wasn't produced as part of the 'training' series, but I don't know its catalogue number.

Are you thinking of the transparent ICE-3 (37789) produced for the 140 years of Marklin? It has a blue tinge to the two end units and a pinkish tinge to the centre unit of the three piece train. I don't know of any other transparent ICE units.

Thank you, looks very interesting.

Regards,

Carlos

Hi again Calos
I'm willing to bet , based on your decription of tghe symptoms,that your two engines have ceased up motors.
Mârklin was for a time using an oil formula that had a tendency to dry up and literally "glued" parts together
Don't panic! It's easy to clean.
I've done for decades and especially when I was servicing Märklin trains for a living!
First get yourself a can of lighter fluid.
It's very late here and I can't write the whole procedure up, but I'll try to get bacl to you tomorrow.

Hi again!
This procedure works in 99% of the cases of a motor that's blocked, with "no apparent reason" and after it's been left alone in its box for months or years!

If the gears and the whole mechanism appear to be clean/like new and without anything visibly clogging the gears, it's the easiest way to get it fixed in a whiff!

First remove the two brushes.
In your case that will be by carefully lifting the little bronze springs with a pair of tweezer, and delicatly set them on the side of the brush holder.

Now remove the brushes (you may need to pull them with the tweezers..)
Note where the metal brush was, because it will have to return to the same spot.
(If you forget, no big deal, the bronze tingy has a little hook that corresponds to that metal brush)

Now **very** carefully , and exercising force **only on one of the wheels on the geared side**, try to turn the motor.
If it not running easily or not at all, time to break the can of ZIPPO (aka lighter fluid)
Put a few drops on each side of the rotor bearings, on the adjacent gears, all the way through the gear train and down to the wheels.

After a minute or two, try again turning the wheels
If not successful , repeat the operation until the mechanism is completely free, no "hard points" when you turn, and all is turning smoothly!

Don't be afraid, lighter fluid eventually evaporates completely and will not harm any electrical or mechanical component.
Just simply wait that it has all dried up before you re-assemble, then reinstall the brushes and after careful /light oiling of the bearings and the gears, go for a test run.

Only in very extreme cases, or when there is a lot of dirt/crap/lint caught in the gears, will you have to open the motor and take the rotor out for a more complete "open heart" cleaning.
But that , as R. Kipling said, is another story.

Tell us how this worked out ...

Hope this helps for now.
We'll go through the open heart surgery procedure when needed

Jacques

Hi Carlos
Glad it worked for you so far
As far as I know, there is no need to unsolder anything to change the bulb (unless someone modififed the original set up...)
You should just turn it 1/4 turn and it will pop out, inserting the new one is the reverse operation
Sleepy time again on this side of the ocean.
Till tomorrow!
Cheers
Jacques