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Offline ktsolias  
#1 Posted : 09 November 2018 11:26:46(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 610
Location: Athens
Hi

Its quite a long time now that I am searching articles on the conversion of the E 70 (Bavarian Kroco) to digital, without great success.

IMG_41692_resize.JPG

There are a few of them analog, DELTA, or early Digital that need conversion.

The Loco is a TRIX design original and the firsts produced by Märklin are the 3448 and 3748 (Dig) from 1992.

Its a very nice loco and till today there are many variations from Märklin.

The other think is that is quiet easy to find the old analog or DELTA ones in good prices.

My target is to achieve the following:

1. mSD/3 decoder without sound
2. LED lights WW both ends
3. LED Red twilight's
4. LED Cabin lights

As we see there are some difficulties mainly from the limited space inside.

See you back with the conversion process.

Costas
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Offline ktsolias  
#2 Posted : 09 November 2018 12:15:56(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 610
Location: Athens
Hi

First Step the disassembly of the loco

The opening is quiet easy. Just unscrew the 2 screws from the under side and remove the body. Be careful not do any damage to the sensitive plastic hand grasps.

And that is what is inside.

IMG_41694_resize.JPG

There is a big PCB on and the smaller reversing unit

IMG_41695_resize.JPG

Desolder everything and taking everything apart as well:

IMG_42469_resize.JPG

All the parts (except the body). Be careful with 4 stairs on the main module are very fragile!!!

IMG_42470_resize.JPG

The PCB is used for the change between hot shoe and photograph, to keep the capasitor of the motor, have the two contacts of the motor underneath, and the lines for the front lights.

IMG_42475a_resize.JPG

The red plastic axle is for the changing between photograph and hot shoe from under the loco without the need to remove the body.

IMG_42477_resize.JPG

The motor is a DC three pole motor from Βühler the same with the one in the 3125 etc Red arrows.

IMG_42478_resize.JPG

Then I gone further with the opening and disassembly of the driving truck, so its possible to remove all the old hard grease, and clean very well everything.

IMG_40263_resize.JPG

The inspection did show any wear or damage. (the loco any way was working perfect in analog mode)

IMG_40265_resize.JPG

I did the same with the front truck witch is easier as the are no any gears.

So after the opening the cleaning of everything I reassemble the trucks as there is no need to lost something, with very careful use of high quality silicone grease.

Special care when change the traction tires as the bolts are very small and the all system of the wheels very sensitive. It's extremely difficult to find a spare part in case of any damage

Then I start the measurements and the thinking what to do....

I will come back after the weekend..

Regards

Costas

Edited by user 12 November 2018 11:06:34(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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Offline river6109  
#3 Posted : 09 November 2018 13:14:51(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,715
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
good luck, I wish the railing would have been of metal and not plastic.

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline ktsolias  
#4 Posted : 09 November 2018 17:14:12(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 610
Location: Athens
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
good luck, I wish the railing would have been of metal and not plastic.

John



Sorry the hand grabs are metal, painted black the railings are plastic....
But there are on LokMuseum new ones for 3,80 €


Costas
Offline Ross  
#5 Posted : 09 November 2018 21:00:40(UTC)
Ross

Australia   
Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 872
Location: Sydney, NSW
Hi Costas/All,

I have done a conversion to the 3748 which has Telex couplers and LED lighting with warm white LEDs at the front and red LEDs for the rear lights. I didn't add cabin lights as there is little interior details.

For those interested you can look at my article below.

3748 Telex and LED conversion

I hope someone finds it useful.



Ross
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Offline ktsolias  
#6 Posted : 12 November 2018 11:06:08(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 610
Location: Athens
Hi

Next it is the time to decide about the decoder.
There are two options according to my specifications:
1. 60972
2. 60982
Both are identical but differ in the packaging. The 60972 is a 21pin and the 60982 is plastic warped with 14 cables !!!!

IMG_09197_decoder_1_resize.JPG

The 60972 is to big (and thick) for the limited space above the PCB

IMG_42540_resize.JPG

So the decision is to use the smaller one the 60982. This packaging has some disadvantages: can not be removed easily to put another decoder and if you want program with the 60971 must use cables, witch is a bit complicated.

IMG_42541_resize.JPG

The dropping resistors for the LEDs will be soldered in a small vero board witch will seat where the reversing unit was.

IMG_42531_resize.JPG

I use classical 1kΩ resistors as there is enough space and are easier to handle than the SMD ones

IMG_42537_resize.JPG

So I will use the NEM color coding.

The decoder programmed with the 60971 device, for the motor parameters, functions, and from there I dim the LEDs to the desirable output as well, and the programming of the red LEDs, as well the cabin LEDs

Regards

Costas
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Offline ktsolias  
#7 Posted : 12 November 2018 12:23:12(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 610
Location: Athens
Hi

Next and most difficult the front and rear LED lights

In the original there is a small bulb in a special cavity in the frame and two light pipes. The one from the bottom is for the two lower lights and the one at the top is for the main top light. But is only white!!! The difficulties arrived with the adding of Red taillights...

The space is very limited and the frame is metal, so everything must be small and well insulated.

IMG_42486_resize.JPG

So after some measurements I decide to use 1,8mm through the hole type LEDs two WW and one RED each side which I solder with the BLUE wire (U+) and with the two function wires (F0 white or yellow, AUX 1 Green and AUX 2 Violet according to the direction and the polarity of course).

IMG_42523_resize.JPG

The complex fits fine in the small space

IMG_42528_resize.JPG

The final set with insulation with shrink tubes and the piece of black card between the lower two LED's (taillights) and the upper WW LED to prevent bleeding of the RED light to the top

IMG_42554_resize.JPG

The motor in place and the rear LED complex in place as well

IMG_42557_resize.JPG

Use of insulation tape to prevent any light bleeding

IMG_42564_resize.JPG

Test of the LEDs with the use of 1kΩ limited resistors: OK

So the most difficult part finished.

Of course there are and other solutions with SMD LED's or bi-color LEDs that may have the same or ever better results. In the next conversion of a E 70 I will try another solution, but the whole process is difficult and time consuming.

Regards

Costas
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Offline ktsolias  
#8 Posted : 13 November 2018 09:08:08(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 610
Location: Athens
Next I prepared the two cabin lights.

On two small vero boards just SMD WW LED 1206 size. The resistors are in the other vero board.

IMG_42548_resize.JPG

Glued in place with hot glue

IMG_42571_resize.JPG

So everything is ready for final assembly

Costas
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Offline ktsolias  
#9 Posted : 13 November 2018 10:13:42(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 610
Location: Athens
Hi


Its time for the soldering of the various cables and the final assembly.

The soldering was done according to the follow plan of the electronics:

Electrical Plan 3448.jpg

The start

IMG_42549_resize.JPG

The completed modules except the front and rear lights

IMG_42553_resize.JPG

Everything completed and is in place

IMG_42563_resize.JPG

The final view before the checking

IMG_42559_resize.JPG

The decoder programmed with the 60971 programmer and the mDT software.
Its working great and is very fast.
The motor parameters change from the default 5 soft DC motor to some more appropriate for the 3 pole DC motor (may change again latter after experiments).

As far the space in the loco is very limited there was no place to do a transistor switch to control the red taillights on-off.
So I used two functions to control the red LEDS one for each side. (I don't needed the 4th anyway)
The direction of the red LEDs was programmed as follows: forward for the rear and backward for the front.
The cabin lights dimmed to taste with the programmer as well (100 value).
So the functions are

f0/ = Front-Rear WW LEDs
f1 = Rear Red LED
f2 = Front Red LED
f5 = Front cabin LED
f6 = Rear cabin LED

The loco tested and was working great.
Excellent running, very smooth and quiet, nothing to do with the analog!!!
Slow speed excellent.
Lights working fine !!!

Some images will follow

Regards

Costas





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Offline ktsolias  
#10 Posted : 13 November 2018 10:29:52(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 610
Location: Athens
Hi

And finally some pictures of the result:

White lights

IMG_42581_resize.JPG

Red taillights, No bleeding at all to the upper light

IMG_42580_resize.JPG

Cabin Lights

IMG_42582_resize.JPG

Thank very much all of you for your nice comments.

I hope that this conversion which is very special and not very easy will help other Märklin enthusiasts

Best Regards

Costas
thanks 4 users liked this useful post by ktsolias
Offline mbarreto  
#11 Posted : 13 November 2018 13:12:00(UTC)
mbarreto

Portugal   
Joined: 18/02/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,265
It looks very good. This is a great thread.
Congratulations and thanks.
Best regards,
Miguel
Mostly Märklin H0.


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