Be advised that the main reason for Märklin not to do any ultra slim switches, is because the pickup shoe cannot travel over the pointwork without shorting the track. This problem can be a pain to work around. One way is to install a reverse loop module (like the Trix 66846) to handle the problem. One module per point is going to be an expensive adventure.

I am not saying that it cannot be done, I am just saying it is not going to be a walk in the park. If that was the case, Märklin would have created that kind of track years ago.

Hi Fabrice
I have been investigating the use of Peco Code 100 track with Marklin for some time for two reasons:
1. Like you have suggested. for the improved appearance, and
2. For the reduced expense compared to buying K track.
Of course, it is quite a lot of work to convert it for 3 rail, but in my opinion, it will be well worth the effort. I have 25 to 30 lengths of flexible track ready for use, including a couple of lengths with concrete sleepers. I used 1mm brass escutcheon pins for the studs, fitted to every second sleeper. Each pin has to be cut to length using a simple jig before fitting to a hole drilled in every second sleeper, The pins are linked electrically by soldering each one to copper tape obtained from stained glass supply shops. This is not for the faint hearted as there is the danger of melting the plasted sleeper, but I had no problems

Unfortunately, the project came to a halt for many reasons, but I do plan on restarting it as soon as I am able.

With regard to points/switches, I only got as far as building jigs to drill holes in the sleepers for the studs. I will be using Peco Electro frog points rather than the Insulfrog version as I had problems many years ago when the plastic frogs were crushed by the weight of Marklin and Hag locos.

To prevent short circuits between the current pick shoe and the rail, I was going to cut each closure rail on the point in two places and seal the gaps with plasticard, Each of these sections of rail would then be wired to the third rail power supply through a Peco PL13 switeh which is attached to the standard Peco point motor. The third rail power would then be fed to these sections of rail depending on the direction of the point and provide power to the current pick up shoe as the loco traverses the point.

The advantage of this system is that the studs do not have to be higher than the track which can cause problems with smaller locos, the closure rail does not have to be insulated in any way, and all locos will receive continuous power as they traverse the point improving running, espccially at slow speed. Apart from having to cut the closure rails and insulate with plasti card, the amount of work that needs to be done is the same as wiring a 2 rail live frog point through a Peco PL13 to change the polarity of the frog.

If you are planning to just use Peco points with K track, then I believe there will be a problem, as Peco Code100 track is from memory slightly smaller than K track, but you will need to confirm this,

Geoff

Hello,

Thank you to all who have provided me some suggestions and links.
The result is : OK, let's think and wait a bit...

What I wasn't aware is "it is strongly advised to put the opposite rail to B potential when crossing the turnout" in order to provide smooth operation at low speed, especially for short locos. As a result, this needs a careful work, a bit of electronics and many tests. That's why I'm going to delay my tests, and discuss with my dealer when he's back from holidays.

I've also found a link on a French forum http://www.3rails.fr/for...amp;t=3305&start=110 of a guy having used a bakelite electronic plate to solder pukos done with brass. The result is astounding, but it requires high-precision work.

I'll keep you informed if I decide to go on.

Cheers
Fabrice

I recently did a few experiments myself and concluded it's simply a waste of both time and money. The Peco puko-strips span two sleepers which result in excessive slider noise. This could be circumvented by pairing up two strips but made it even more difficult to keep track and strips lined up to have the studs run straight along the track center. As the French guy shows, some sort of template is needed to have the studs lined up and I couldn't see any feasible way of doing this on any sizeable layout.

There might be exceptions where it could make sense, like the Peco DKW (and SKW):



If you're trapped in the 3-rail camp, stick to what the C/K-track programs offer and modify your track plan accordingly!