Electrical Connections to The m83 (60831) decoder and Mini trix trains

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Electrical Connections to The m83 (60831) decoder and Mini trix trains

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BR221		#1 Posted : 10 March 2018 00:02:15(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 31/08/2017(UTC) Posts: 9 Location: South Australia, Adelaide		Hi fellow Train modellers. I'm writing to you to ask once again for your help on two issues: 1. Does anyone know why the m83 (60831) decoder manual states that " the end of the wires must be stripped and twisted but NOT tinned for electrical connections to the decoder and from turnouts to the decoder"? Is tinning not allowed because of possible DCC electrical interference issues? I assume I can extend the turnout solenoid wires by soldering extension wires and that the aforementioned statement applies to the final connection to the m83 only? 2. Does anyone have any experience with Minitrix Loco motor brush replacement? Ive found out that the brushes are not user replaceable and indeed the spare brushes are not readily available to the public. The Loco's brushes need to be replaced by an authorized service dealer!!!! Im concerned because I only just purchased 4x Minitrix locos (2017 models) and if the brushes only have a life of say 50hrs, its going to be a big expense to send from Australia to Germany for repairs let alone the repair itself! I know this is a Marklin site and therefore mainly HO, but Minitrix is now part of Marklin and I really couldnt find readily accessible Minitrix Forum site. Best Regards Evan


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kiwiAlan		#2 Posted : 10 March 2018 15:11:20(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,109 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot		Originally Posted by: BR221 1. Does anyone know why the m83 (60831) decoder manual states that " the end of the wires must be stripped and twisted but NOT tinned for electrical connections to the decoder and from turnouts to the decoder"? Is tinning not allowed because of possible DCC electrical interference issues? I assume I can extend the turnout solenoid wires by soldering extension wires and that the aforementioned statement applies to the final connection to the m83 only? Can't help with the brush question, although I would have thought this should be possible for an Australian authorised distributor to do. As to your query above, the problem is that if you tin the ends of the wires before putting them under a screwed down connection the region where the screw compresses the wire slowly collapses as the solder is soft and over time will make an intermittent connection. The way I suggest you do it is use the sort of pins that are used in the subminiature D connectors used for serial communications connections or the high density version as used for VGA monitors and solder one pin onto the end of the wire. Then put the pin into the screw connection. It is possible to recover pins from old cables that don't have the molded plastic body. I have some wires I have done this way to go into the connectors used on the original Intellibox. I'll try and take a photo so you can see what I mean.


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BR221		#3 Posted : 10 March 2018 22:44:22(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 31/08/2017(UTC) Posts: 9 Location: South Australia, Adelaide		Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan Originally Posted by: BR221 1. Does anyone know why the m83 (60831) decoder manual states that " the end of the wires must be stripped and twisted but NOT tinned for electrical connections to the decoder and from turnouts to the decoder"? Is tinning not allowed because of possible DCC electrical interference issues? I assume I can extend the turnout solenoid wires by soldering extension wires and that the aforementioned statement applies to the final connection to the m83 only? Can't help with the brush question, although I would have thought this should be possible for an Australian authorised distributor to do. As to your query above, the problem is that if you tin the ends of the wires before putting them under a screwed down connection the region where the screw compresses the wire slowly collapses as the solder is soft and over time will make an intermittent connection. The way I suggest you do it is use the sort of pins that are used in the subminiature D connectors used for serial communications connections or the high density version as used for VGA monitors and solder one pin onto the end of the wire. Then put the pin into the screw connection. It is possible to recover pins from old cables that don't have the molded plastic body. I have some wires I have done this way to go into the connectors used on the original Intellibox. I'll try and take a photo so you can see what I mean. KiwiAlan, Thank you very much for your reply. It makes sense! You are right there is probably someone in Adelaide who could do it ( there may be is an Authorized agent in Sydney) but Id rather change the brushes my self. Regards Evan


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