 Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC) Posts: 623 Location: Athens
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Hi to all I have a 3031 BR 81 the version 3031.2 without the hand-lever, Box date is 01 1959... Is in very good condition and of course full metal construction TELEX K 21 couplers, a really beautiful switcher  The original box is in good condition as well with the carton insert.   The loco was converted to DELTA in the past. Is working extremely well (for a DELTA loco) but no TELEX couplers.  I like this loco very much more than 2 other newer versions that I have, so I decided to convert to Digital. The Plan is: 1. 60943 5pole motor 2. 60972 mfx decoder 3. LED WW front and rear on f0 4. Smoke generator 3,5mm on AUX 1 5. Cabin LED WW on AUX 2 6. TELEX Couplers front-Rear on AUX 3 and 4 After precise measurements I find that there is space for everything so the conversion is possible. I will sow you in details the progress. This loco as the 3032 (No TELEX) are very popular till today so many people have one or more of those and maybe are interesting to go on. Regards Costas Edited by user 02 March 2018 22:58:01(UTC)
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 11 users liked this useful post by ktsolias
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foumaro, Donb, Crazy Harry, GLI, RayF, jvuye, LA2019, Bigdaddynz, johnpatrickwack, mbarreto, PJMärklin
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 Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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Hi Costas Did that conversion many years ago. Very similar to yours except it used the then "state of the art" 60903 decoder!!   Still run beautifully, great switcher, very powerful and smooth. I did cut the "wiskers" on the telex coupler heads, just to make it a little more universal in use (including Marklin close coupler heads) Let's see how your conversion is done, I always look forward to yours : you've often given me a number of good ideas in the past   |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
2 users liked this useful post by jvuye
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 Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,870 Location: Gibraltar, Europe
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I converted mine with 60943/60972 combination not too long ago. Mine was from the 29185 start set and came with a delta decoder originally and no Telex. I kept the lamps as they were as they were already mounted on bi-pin holders.  |
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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3 users liked this useful post by RayF
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 Joined: 08/03/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,042 Location: Gold Coast, Australia.
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Did this many moons ago with #30322. It is still one of my best switch locos. Used loksound V3.5.   |
D.A.Banks |
4 users liked this useful post by Dave Banks
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Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC) Posts: 623 Location: Athens
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First step: Dismalt the Loco I took apart everything. The process is straightforward.  I shall use LED lights so I don't need the old bulb holders. To remove them you must machine a bit from the underneath with a 3mm drill. To have access you must first remove the TELEX magnets Carefully you must bent the metal ears that hold the magnets on the body and are easily accessible from above  Then I took of the bulb holders and the final result was this: A total nude frame (except the wheels)  Careful examination of the body: No need to dismalt the wheels, gears in excellent condition. Everything working fine and smooth. Measuring the resistance of the TELEX magnets: OK (about 72 Ω) Cleaning everything very well and apply new oil where needed. Now is time to see the body. First I took off the two optic fiber lenses for the front and rear lights.  The holes on the body are 3 mm diameter and the front ones are longer than the rear.  That is important for the placing of the LED lights later. Next I drill a 3,5 mm hole in the chimney very carefully in steps (1,5 - 2 - 2,5 - 3 - 3,5)  After that the preparation is completed and we are ready to proceed to the next step. Thanks for your nice commends Regards Costas
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8 users liked this useful post by ktsolias
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Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,875 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
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Did this conversion as well many moons ago with 2 ball bearings on each side of the armature.
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1 user liked this useful post by river6109
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Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC) Posts: 623 Location: Athens
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Hi to all I was away for a while but know I am back and the project continues!!! Next step is the preparation of the body with the LED lights As the light holes on the body are 3mm I decide to use 3 of 3mm WW LED's connected in series for each end of the body. The 3 LED's for the front end after the soldering and sizing to fit look like this:  Then I put them in place without any glue.  Just the shape and I covered all the construction with insulation tape. That holds the LED's in place, prevents any short circuits with the smoke generator (the space is a bit limited), and prevents the diffusion of the light back inside the body.  The smoke generator No 20 (3,5 mm) inserted from below  Check that everything fits well with the body on the frame, check carefully for short circuits.  Same on the rear side. There is one more wire missing at the moment, the AUX 1 br/red to the smoke generator. This will be done later. At the moment I will start the assembly of the frame. Regards Costas
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5 users liked this useful post by ktsolias
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 Joined: 18/11/2008(UTC) Posts: 495 Location: Oakville, Ontario
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Originally Posted by: ktsolias  Next step is the preparation of the body with the LED lights
As the light holes on the body are 3mm I decide to use 3 of 3mm WW LED's connected in series for each end of the body. Is there a resistor in series with the LEDs to control brightness? Is so, what value? Or how do you control brightness? Thanks, Harold. Never mind, found the answer in another thread - you will be using a 47k ohm resistor in series. Thanks again, Harold.
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Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC) Posts: 623 Location: Athens
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Originally Posted by: Crazy Harry Originally Posted by: ktsolias Next step is the preparation of the body with the LED lights
As the light holes on the body are 3mm I decide to use 3 of 3mm WW LED's connected in series for each end of the body. Is there a resistor in series with the LEDs to control brightness? Is so, what value? Or how do you control brightness? Thanks, Harold. Never mind, found the answer in another thread - you will be using a 47k ohm resistor in series. Thanks again, Harold. The 47kΩ value gave me a good brightens on the workbench. So this will be the start. Then when the conversion finish I will do the final adjustments trough the decoder settings. I don't want too bright lights. I want to be close to the original Costas
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2 users liked this useful post by ktsolias
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Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC) Posts: 623 Location: Athens
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Next step is the installation of the new motor The motor is the 60943, the kit for the SFCM The magnet  The rotor  And the cover..... But there is a problem here The 60943 kit includes two screws M2x12 The original screws are to short for the new motor. The M2x12 is OK for the upper right side, but TOO LONG for the lower left side. So its blocks the second gear that seats behind the motor!!!! The solution is to use one M2x10 screw which I did  If you don't have a M2x10 screw you can use a couple of small washers under the soldering point. Check anyway that everything rotates freely Insert the brushes Don't forget the proper oiling of all the moving parts!!!! Then I checked the motor with 10-16 V DC both directions and is worked excellent (Never forget to do that). Finally I put on the driving rods, and the base plate for the decoder where the reversing unit was.  Next step is the re-installation of the TELEX and the installation of the 21pin plate Thanks Regards Costas
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6 users liked this useful post by ktsolias
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 Joined: 15/12/2015(UTC) Posts: 523 Location: Maryland, Baltimore
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The timing for this thread is perfect for me because I involved in the same process of attempting to add smoke to this engine. The only difference I wanted the LED's lens to protrude slightly like the original Lightkörper. To achieve this I carefully removed the lip at the end of the LED until it was a exact fit. When I finished it should look closer to how it originally did. I'm running behind and have to get the decoder and DMC motor kit until I can proceed.
Chuck
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1 user liked this useful post by skeeterbuck
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Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC) Posts: 623 Location: Athens
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Next the coils of the TELEX back on the frame  A wire soldered on the smoke generator. I use purple color and not br/red because I haven't in 36 AWG.  Isolation with shrinking tube The careful isolation of all the wires in this conversion is very important because the space inside the loco is limited  The wiring plan is the follow  I prepare a small PCB for the resistors and other soldering points  The resistors on  The small board glued with a drop of warm glue in the back of the decoder holding plate  All the wiring done according to the plan  The other side with the 60972 decoder on and all the wiring  A picture of the test run with smoke and lights on  Everything working perfect, the smoke generator, the lights, the TELEX couplers. Running characteristics excellent with the default settings!!!! Next I will come back with the final touches, and some new setting for the decoder Thanks Regards Costas
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11 users liked this useful post by ktsolias
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PJMärklin, RayF, Bigdaddynz, foumaro, amartinezv, Crazy Harry, GLI, DaleSchultz, LoeM, TrainIride, mbarreto
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 Joined: 09/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,919 Location: Auckland,
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Very nice, I converted the same lok a few years back only without smoke. I'm sure you will love this loco in digital
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1 user liked this useful post by mvd71
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Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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Brilliant.
I can hardly see how it could be done better or more professionally.
Hats off to you Costas! |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
2 users liked this useful post by jvuye
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Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC) Posts: 623 Location: Athens
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Thank you very much for your nice comments
I am not actually a professional.
I only love too much these small marvels, and specially the ones from 1960 - 1990
I collect them. I buy the locos that are mechanically right
Then the conversion is a real fun for me...
And of course the biggest satisfaction is when I am looking these 50 years old ladies to run with functions like even better than the new ones.
May be are a little more noisy, but the railway is a noisy think.
May be they haven't the detailing of the new ones, but are more robust with excellent running, specially under digital control.
Many thanks to Marklin who give us the beautiful motors.
There are many locos already done and many waiting in the cue for conversion.
I will share with you
Thank you
Best regards
Costas
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3 users liked this useful post by ktsolias
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Joined: 15/12/2015(UTC) Posts: 523 Location: Maryland, Baltimore
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Congrats Costas! Looks like your conversion was a complete success. I'm in the process of converting a later version with smoke and telex also. I think I'll add a ball bearing to the brush plate too. I'm not adding a light to the cab because it just lights up the motor and that I would rather hide. Chuck
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Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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Originally Posted by: skeeterbuck Congrats Costas! Looks like your conversion was a complete success. I'm in the process of converting a later version with smoke and telex also. I think I'll add a ball bearing to the brush plate too. I'm not adding a light to the cab because it just lights up the motor and that I would rather hide. Chuck Hi Chuck! If you paint the motor in black, it will just look like the firebox of teh loco, and then a little light will add a lot of realism. I did that for a 3047...very cool effect! Cheers Jacques |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
1 user liked this useful post by jvuye
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Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC) Posts: 623 Location: Athens
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Originally Posted by: jvuye Originally Posted by: skeeterbuck Congrats Costas! Looks like your conversion was a complete success. I'm in the process of converting a later version with smoke and telex also. I think I'll add a ball bearing to the brush plate too. I'm not adding a light to the cab because it just lights up the motor and that I would rather hide. Chuck Hi Chuck! If you paint the motor in black, it will just look like the firebox of teh loco, and then a little light will add a lot of realism. I did that for a 3047...very cool effect! Cheers Jacques I will do that (these thinks I mean final touches). I have paint the magnet black in my 3048.5 conversion (published here as well). You will see the final result Also the cabin light needs a bit more dimming (now is 150 instead the 250 default). Cheers Costas
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 Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,475 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
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Originally Posted by: ktsolias
Also the cabin light needs a bit more dimming (now is 150 instead the 250 default).
Cheers
Costas
I think I wouldalso prefer it to be a 'warm white' LED rather than what appears in your photo to be a 'cool white' as the 'warm white' replicates the tungsten filament bulb better, that would have been used as the cab light. It would also be a quite low power bulb I expect. If you are already using a 'warm white' LED then perhaps the camera is over exposing because of the brightness.
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Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC) Posts: 623 Location: Athens
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Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan Originally Posted by: ktsolias
Also the cabin light needs a bit more dimming (now is 150 instead the 250 default).
Cheers
Costas
I think I wouldalso prefer it to be a 'warm white' LED rather than what appears in your photo to be a 'cool white' as the 'warm white' replicates the tungsten filament bulb better, that would have been used as the cab light. It would also be a quite low power bulb I expect. If you are already using a 'warm white' LED then perhaps the camera is over exposing because of the brightness. Are WW LEDs. They are looking cold because the camera was in manual color balance at 2700K so the WW appears cold. In the follow picture the the light color is better balanced for 5000K by the camera  Thanks Costas
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2 users liked this useful post by ktsolias
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Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,475 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
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Originally Posted by: ktsolias
Are WW LEDs. They are looking cold because the camera was in manual color balance at 2700K so the WW appears cold.
In the follow picture the the light color is better balanced for 5000K by the camera
Ah, good, yes that has come out with a better colour balance. It does look real nice.
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Joined: 18/11/2008(UTC) Posts: 495 Location: Oakville, Ontario
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Costas,
I realize space is limited within the locomotive, but did you consider a plug and socket for the light and smoke generator wires between the body and frame? Easier to separate the two for future maintenance.
Thanks,
Harold.
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1 user liked this useful post by Crazy Harry
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Joined: 13/12/2016(UTC) Posts: 147 Location: Silver Spring, MD, USA
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Costos, I am very impressed with your skills! Your loco seems so similar to the one I want to convert, which is a TT800 from, I think, about 1955, which runs perfectly. I've had some people tell me it can't be converted, but I wonder if you would know - it doesn't see too different from yours, but no telex. What do you think? Attached is a picture of the TT800. Thank you, John  |
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John P. Wack
Silver Spring, MD |
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Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC) Posts: 623 Location: Athens
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Originally Posted by: Crazy Harry Costas,
I realize space is limited within the locomotive, but did you consider a plug and socket for the light and smoke generator wires between the body and frame? Easier to separate the two for future maintenance.
Thanks,
Harold. I was thinking about that because this is my standard practice. To do that I had to file the part of the frame where the manual reversing level used to be. I did't want to do that so I did that way The problem is that the very small plugs can not fit on a 2,54 mm vero board. I have to look further with my electronics supplier Thanks Costas
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Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC) Posts: 623 Location: Athens
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Originally Posted by: johnpatrickwack Costos, I am very impressed with your skills! Your loco seems so similar to the one I want to convert, which is a TT800 from, I think, about 1955, which runs perfectly. I've had some people tell me it can't be converted, but I wonder if you would know - it doesn't see too different from yours, but no telex. What do you think? Attached is a picture of the TT800. Thank you, John Yes John You can convert this loco If you take a picture of the motor it will help to see if you can use a 5 pole motor kit from Marklin. But you can convert it using a permanent magnet plus a Lokpilot from ESU. In the plan of the TT 800 that I have I can't understand the type of the motor (LFCM or SFCM). The motorschild is not a common one. The Loco is a class 86 not a class 81 like the 3031 The next BR 86 from Marklin is the 3096 from 1971 a plastic one... Is a quite rare loco and expensive. I prefer not alter these locos (800 series) but to keep them in working condition but as original. Have a look on Koll's and on ebay about the value of this loco. My 2002 Koll for the TT 800 from 1955 give a price of 1200 Euro!!! ebay: https://www.ebay.de/sch/...rklin+TT800&_sacat=0Of course you decide... Regards Costas
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2 users liked this useful post by ktsolias
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Joined: 08/12/2004(UTC) Posts: 4,430 Location: Attiki Athens Greece
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Wise proposal from Costas,pitty to convert this great classic.But it is yours,we can only say our opinion.
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Joined: 13/12/2016(UTC) Posts: 147 Location: Silver Spring, MD, USA
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I appreciate your comments on whether to convert my TT800 - I don't want to divert this thread too much on this subject, so briefly, I decided to explore converting it because the loco is worth a lot of money only if I sell it, and I'd rather see it running digitally than sitting in a box or shelf unused. I know many people debate whether to do this or not. Again, I appreciate your thoughts. |
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John P. Wack
Silver Spring, MD |
1 user liked this useful post by johnpatrickwack
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Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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Originally Posted by: johnpatrickwack I appreciate your comments on whether to convert my TT800 - I don't want to divert this thread too much on this subject, so briefly, I decided to explore converting it because the loco is worth a lot of money only if I sell it, and I'd rather see it running digitally than sitting in a box or shelf unused. I know many people debate whether to do this or not. Again, I appreciate your thoughts. Costas is right, it is possibe to convert your TT 800 to digital. The process would be the same for a TP 800 , which I converted many years ago. There are several avenues, but they all have to take in account that you have a special brush holding plate here, specific to the TT and TP (the part had the same PN : [TP 800-11 U 14 a] in both loks in the old Märklin spare parts catalog) When I did my TP 800 I decided to use a 5 pole conversion and simply milled out the original shield to be able to accomodate one of the LFCM shields contained in a 60904 kit Of course that looks maybe a bit extreme, but the lok chassis had suffered many mishandling,(e.g. all the threads had been stripped from multiple handling) Since I was at it , and there was no hope to get it back to "original" anyway, I decided it was best to go all the way and create a nicely running oldie look-alike rather than keeping a box of useless spares. My apologies to those who feel this was probably "butchery", but I have also a perfectly original TP and a beautiful TT in my displays!  In your case, I'd suggest you look at the ESU conversion magnet for LFCM typ 51960 ESU Permanent magnets for Märklin LoksYour only caveat is that you'll have to be careful with the original bulbs: they use quite a lot of power, and you may overload the function outputs of the decoder. Once again, the white LED trick could come to play here as replacing bubs in these lok is not always simple. Hope this gives you a feel for what can be done. Don't hesitate if you have more questions Cheers Jacques |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
3 users liked this useful post by jvuye
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 Joined: 18/02/2017(UTC) Posts: 71 Location: Zuid-Holland
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Originally Posted by: ktsolias Everything working perfect, the smoke generator, the lights, the TELEX couplers.
Running characteristics excellent with the default settings!!!!
Next I will come back with the final touches, and some new setting for the decoder
Hi Costas, What a very beautiful item, and a great job! Regards, Leo
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1 user liked this useful post by LoeM
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Joined: 13/12/2016(UTC) Posts: 147 Location: Silver Spring, MD, USA
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Originally Posted by: jvuye Originally Posted by: johnpatrickwack I appreciate your comments on whether to convert my TT800 - I don't want to divert this thread too much on this subject, so briefly, I decided to explore converting it because the loco is worth a lot of money only if I sell it, and I'd rather see it running digitally than sitting in a box or shelf unused. I know many people debate whether to do this or not. Again, I appreciate your thoughts. Costas is right, it is possibe to convert your TT 800 to digital. The process would be the same for a TP 800 , which I converted many years ago. There are several avenues, but they all have to take in account that you have a special brush holding plate here, specific to the TT and TP (the part had the same PN : [TP 800-11 U 14 a] in both loks in the old Märklin spare parts catalog) When I did my TP 800 I decided to use a 5 pole conversion and simply milled out the original shield to be able to accomodate one of the LFCM shields contained in a 60904 kit Of course that looks maybe a bit extreme, but the lok chassis had suffered many mishandling,(e.g. all the threads had been stripped from multiple handling) ... Cheers Jacques Jacques, I apologize for taking so long to thank you for this info - I got busy with other things and neglected to keep up with this thread. I may attempt this conversion sometime this fall or winter and see how it goes. I am a bit torn myself on whether to do this, but I'd like to see the loco running again. All the locos I have that have been converted (3) run extremely well, in fact better than the newer ones from Marklin. Cheers, John |
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John P. Wack
Silver Spring, MD |
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