Hi Costas
Did that conversion many years ago. Very similar to yours except it used the then "state of the art" 60903 decoder!!

Still run beautifully, great switcher, very powerful and smooth.
I did cut the "wiskers" on the telex coupler heads, just to make it a little more universal in use (including Marklin close coupler heads)

Let's see how your conversion is done, I always look forward to yours : you've often given me a number of good ideas in the past

Did this many moons ago with #30322. It is still one of my best switch locos. Used loksound V3.5.

Did this conversion as well many moons ago with 2 ball bearings on each side of the armature.

Is there a resistor in series with the LEDs to control brightness? Is so, what value? Or how do you control brightness?

Thanks,

Harold.

Never mind, found the answer in another thread - you will be using a 47k ohm resistor in series.

Thanks again,

Harold.

Next step is the installation of the new motor

The motor is the 60943, the kit for the SFCM

The magnet



The rotor



And the cover.....
But there is a problem here
The 60943 kit includes two screws M2x12
The original screws are to short for the new motor.
The M2x12 is OK for the upper right side, but TOO LONG for the lower left side.
So its blocks the second gear that seats behind the motor!!!!
The solution is to use one M2x10 screw which I did



If you don't have a M2x10 screw you can use a couple of small washers under the soldering point.

Check anyway that everything rotates freely

Insert the brushes

Don't forget the proper oiling of all the moving parts!!!!

Then I checked the motor with 10-16 V DC both directions and is worked excellent (Never forget to do that).

Finally I put on the driving rods, and the base plate for the decoder where the reversing unit was.



Next step is the re-installation of the TELEX and the installation of the 21pin plate

Thanks

Regards

Costas

Next the coils of the TELEX back on the frame



A wire soldered on the smoke generator. I use purple color and not br/red because I haven't in 36 AWG.



Isolation with shrinking tube
The careful isolation of all the wires in this conversion is very important because the space inside the loco is limited



The wiring plan is the follow



I prepare a small PCB for the resistors and other soldering points



The resistors on



The small board glued with a drop of warm glue in the back of the decoder holding plate



All the wiring done according to the plan



The other side with the 60972 decoder on and all the wiring



A picture of the test run with smoke and lights on



Everything working perfect, the smoke generator, the lights, the TELEX couplers.

Running characteristics excellent with the default settings!!!!

Next I will come back with the final touches, and some new setting for the decoder

Thanks

Regards

Costas

Brilliant.
I can hardly see how it could be done better or more professionally.
Hats off to you Costas!

Congrats Costas! Looks like your conversion was a complete success.

I'm in the process of converting a later version with smoke and telex also. I think I'll add a ball bearing to the brush plate too. I'm not adding a light to the cab because it just lights up the motor and that I would rather hide.

Chuck

I will do that (these thinks I mean final touches). I have paint the magnet black in my 3048.5 conversion (published here as well).

You will see the final result

Also the cabin light needs a bit more dimming (now is 150 instead the 250 default).

Cheers

Costas

Are WW LEDs. They are looking cold because the camera was in manual color balance at 2700K so the WW appears cold.

In the follow picture the the light color is better balanced for 5000K by the camera





Thanks

Costas

Costas,

I realize space is limited within the locomotive, but did you consider a plug and socket for the light and smoke generator wires between the body and frame? Easier to separate the two for future maintenance.

Thanks,

Harold.

I was thinking about that because this is my standard practice.

To do that I had to file the part of the frame where the manual reversing level used to be.

I did't want to do that so I did that way

The problem is that the very small plugs can not fit on a 2,54 mm vero board. I have to look further with my electronics supplier

Thanks

Costas

Wise proposal from Costas,pitty to convert this great classic.But it is yours,we can only say our opinion.

Costas is right, it is possibe to convert your TT 800 to digital.
The process would be the same for a TP 800 , which I converted many years ago.
There are several avenues, but they all have to take in account that you have a special brush holding plate here, specific to the TT and TP (the part had the same PN : [TP 800-11 U 14 a] in both loks in the old Märklin spare parts catalog)

When I did my TP 800 I decided to use a 5 pole conversion and simply milled out the original shield to be able to accomodate one of the LFCM shields contained in a 60904 kit
Of course that looks maybe a bit extreme, but the lok chassis had suffered many mishandling,(e.g. all the threads had been stripped from multiple handling)

Since I was at it , and there was no hope to get it back to "original" anyway, I decided it was best to go all the way and create a nicely running oldie look-alike rather than keeping a box of useless spares.

My apologies to those who feel this was probably "butchery", but I have also a perfectly original TP and a beautiful TT in my displays!

In your case, I'd suggest you look at the ESU conversion magnet for LFCM typ 51960 ESU Permanent magnets for Märklin Loks

Your only caveat is that you'll have to be careful with the original bulbs: they use quite a lot of power, and you may overload the function outputs of the decoder.
Once again, the white LED trick could come to play here as replacing bubs in these lok is not always simple.

Hope this gives you a feel for what can be done.

Don't hesitate if you have more questions

Cheers

Jacques

Jacques, I apologize for taking so long to thank you for this info - I got busy with other things and neglected to keep up with this thread. I may attempt this conversion sometime this fall or winter and see how it goes. I am a bit torn myself on whether to do this, but I'd like to see the loco running again. All the locos I have that have been converted (3) run extremely well, in fact better than the newer ones from Marklin.

Cheers, John