 Joined: 15/12/2015(UTC) Posts: 523 Location: Maryland, Baltimore
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I have been doing some reading on the web and am familiar with the problems associated with the turnout motor/solenoid. From my reading the problem is with the contacts failing and the normal recommendation is to solder a bridge across the contacts which removes them electrically from the circuit. This recommendation is usually for digital operation.
I am starting a new layout and was planning on operating the locos using a MS but for the turnouts (there will only be 14) I was planning analog control with the standard Marklin control boxes.
What is the current thought on using thes turnout motors? Using contact cleaner/lubricator on the before installation and limiting a fixed supply source to 16V? If I do the contact bypass modification, just so long and I don't hold the control button down very long, should there really be a problem?
Chuck
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 Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,870 Location: Gibraltar, Europe
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Originally Posted by: skeeterbuck  I have been doing some reading on the web and am familiar with the problems associated with the turnout motor/solenoid. From my reading the problem is with the contacts failing and the normal recommendation is to solder a bridge across the contacts which removes them electrically from the circuit. This recommendation is usually for digital operation.
I am starting a new layout and was planning on operating the locos using a MS but for the turnouts (there will only be 14) I was planning analog control with the standard Marklin control boxes.
What is the current thought on using thes turnout motors? Using contact cleaner/lubricator on the before installation and limiting a fixed supply source to 16V? If I do the contact bypass modification, just so long and I don't hold the control button down very long, should there really be a problem?
Chuck Hi Chuck, I operate my solenoids exactly the way you propose to. I have found that some of my turnout motors have operated trouble-free for years, whereas some others stop working in one direction or both. Performing the modification as has been recommended completely solves the problem, but the solenoids could be damaged if they are kept energised for a long time. You need to make sure that your control boxes do not 'stick' mechanically. As long as the button is free to pop up after you press it the contact will release. I operate my solenoid devices using a Marklin accessory transformer which supplies AC. The solenoid buzzes quite loudly when activated with AC and this gives an audible clue if it happens to stick. My only regret is that I never did the modifications when I originally installed the turnouts. While I have been able to subsequently modify some of them fairly easily there are some that are difficult to get to now and I will have to disassemble some of the track to get to them. |
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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 2 users liked this useful post by RayF
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 Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,453 Location: Scotland
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Just using the CS2 routes I have only had one motor fail in more years that I can remember. Keep the turnouts dust free and use them on a regular basis and you should have no problem with route control. Ooops just noticed you are not using a CS. Us older guys need to make sure they read posts properly. |
Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer. |
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Joined: 15/12/2015(UTC) Posts: 523 Location: Maryland, Baltimore
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Originally Posted by: RayF Originally Posted by: skeeterbuck I have been doing some reading on the web and am familiar with the problems associated with the turnout motor/solenoid. From my reading the problem is with the contacts failing and the normal recommendation is to solder a bridge across the contacts which removes them electrically from the circuit. This recommendation is usually for digital operation.
I am starting a new layout and was planning on operating the locos using a MS but for the turnouts (there will only be 14) I was planning analog control with the standard Marklin control boxes.
What is the current thought on using thes turnout motors? Using contact cleaner/lubricator on the before installation and limiting a fixed supply source to 16V? If I do the contact bypass modification, just so long and I don't hold the control button down very long, should there really be a problem?
Chuck Hi Chuck, I operate my solenoids exactly the way you propose to. I have found that some of my turnout motors have operated trouble-free for years, whereas some others stop working in one direction or both. Performing the modification as has been recommended completely solves the problem, but the solenoids could be damaged if they are kept energised for a long time. You need to make sure that your control boxes do not 'stick' mechanically. As long as the button is free to pop up after you press it the contact will release. I operate my solenoid devices using a Marklin accessory transformer which supplies AC. The solenoid buzzes quite loudly when activated with AC and this gives an audible clue if it happens to stick. My only regret is that I never did the modifications when I originally installed the turnouts. While I have been able to subsequently modify some of them fairly easily there are some that are difficult to get to now and I will have to disassemble some of the track to get to them. Thanks Ray for the info. I take it that you recommend that I do the modification on all the turnout motors now before laying the track. Also, I take it that I'll need to use the 72720 control box instead of the 72710 which has the LED's because as I understand, the LED's won't work correctly after the motors have been modified. I'm also considering making an access hole beneath each turnout so I can access them after they are laid so I won't have to take up the track if and when they malfunction. Also, as I was taking up the old layout, some of the track connector pieces started breaking off. I be reusing them for the new layout because they will be permanent and it doesn't seem to affect the electrical conductivity. It still is very disappointing for Marklin to have used a plastic that deteriorates like this. You would think that in this day and age they would have used a plastic known NOT to have these problems. Chuck
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Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,870 Location: Gibraltar, Europe
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Originally Posted by: skeeterbuck Originally Posted by: RayF Originally Posted by: skeeterbuck I have been doing some reading on the web and am familiar with the problems associated with the turnout motor/solenoid. From my reading the problem is with the contacts failing and the normal recommendation is to solder a bridge across the contacts which removes them electrically from the circuit. This recommendation is usually for digital operation.
I am starting a new layout and was planning on operating the locos using a MS but for the turnouts (there will only be 14) I was planning analog control with the standard Marklin control boxes.
What is the current thought on using thes turnout motors? Using contact cleaner/lubricator on the before installation and limiting a fixed supply source to 16V? If I do the contact bypass modification, just so long and I don't hold the control button down very long, should there really be a problem?
Chuck Hi Chuck, I operate my solenoids exactly the way you propose to. I have found that some of my turnout motors have operated trouble-free for years, whereas some others stop working in one direction or both. Performing the modification as has been recommended completely solves the problem, but the solenoids could be damaged if they are kept energised for a long time. You need to make sure that your control boxes do not 'stick' mechanically. As long as the button is free to pop up after you press it the contact will release. I operate my solenoid devices using a Marklin accessory transformer which supplies AC. The solenoid buzzes quite loudly when activated with AC and this gives an audible clue if it happens to stick. My only regret is that I never did the modifications when I originally installed the turnouts. While I have been able to subsequently modify some of them fairly easily there are some that are difficult to get to now and I will have to disassemble some of the track to get to them. Thanks Ray for the info. I take it that you recommend that I do the modification on all the turnout motors now before laying the track. Also, I take it that I'll need to use the 72720 control box instead of the 72710 which has the LED's because as I understand, the LED's won't work correctly after the motors have been modified. I'm also considering making an access hole beneath each turnout so I can access them after they are laid so I won't have to take up the track if and when they malfunction. Also, as I was taking up the old layout, some of the track connector pieces started breaking off. I be reusing them for the new layout because they will be permanent and it doesn't seem to affect the electrical conductivity. It still is very disappointing for Marklin to have used a plastic that deteriorates like this. You would think that in this day and age they would have used a plastic known NOT to have these problems. Chuck Hi Chuck, Yes to all in your first paragraph! The brittle nature of the earlier C-track is well known, but I've never had pieces breaking off with newer track sections. Still, if the layout is permanent then it's not an issue! |
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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2 users liked this useful post by RayF
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Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,443
Location: DE-NW
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Originally Posted by: skeeterbuck You would think that in this day and age they would have used a plastic known NOT to have these problems. They changed the formula of the plastics around 2002/2004. New tracks have an "ASA" mark. In an ideal world they would have used those ASA plastics right from the start. Problem was solved, but there are many old brittle tracks around in the world. |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS  |
1 user liked this useful post by H0
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