3021 conversion with 60944 and ESU lokpilot V4.0

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3021 conversion with 60944 and ESU lokpilot V4.0 - Conversion partly successful, train runs but not very well

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oltrix		#1 Posted : 13 January 2018 14:09:51(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/12/2017(UTC) Posts: 9 Location: Berlin, Berlin		Hi, My first digital project, converting my old V200 3021 to digital. Got the high performance motor and the lokpilot. Followed all steps and several tips, and it works, kind of. The loc is recognised. The light works (flickers a bit though) and the train runs. However with a bit of hesitation and it makes a squealing noice as speed increases. The same kind of noise can be noted on some really old analog locs as well. It sounds quite horrible and signals that something is definitely wrong. (The gears are thoroughly cleaned and oiled moderately) Somehow I need to figure out what is causing the noise. Two things. I realised that the earth was not very stable so in made an extra lead between the engine housing and the chassis, and on the motor connection I did not include the two resistor from the set, as this was not very clear in the manual. (My two 8 year old kids have been involved so the resistors are gone as well so if they are needed I’d like to know the rating so I can get some new ones. Any input welcome!!!


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jvuye		#2 Posted : 13 January 2018 16:54:58(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,881 Location: South Western France		Originally Posted by: oltrix Hi, My first digital project, converting my old V200 3021 to digital. Got the high performance motor and the lokpilot. Followed all steps and several tips, and it works, kind of. The loc is recognised. The light works (flickers a bit though) and the train runs. However with a bit of hesitation and it makes a squealing noice as speed increases. The same kind of noise can be noted on some really old analog locs as well. It sounds quite horrible and signals that something is definitely wrong. (The gears are thoroughly cleaned and oiled moderately) Somehow I need to figure out what is causing the noise. Two things. I realised that the earth was not very stable so in made an extra lead between the engine housing and the chassis, and on the motor connection I did not include the two resistor from the set, as this was not very clear in the manual. (My two 8 year old kids have been involved so the resistors are gone as well so if they are needed I’d like to know the rating so I can get some new ones. Any input welcome!!! Hi! That squealing noise is the rotor rubbing against the metal of the stator/Magnet You need to center the brush plate perfectly using little 2 mm stabs in the holes opposite to the screws, before tightening them. Test for free running, with the brushes removed, turning the wheels with your thumbs Good luck Cheers Jacques
		Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!

2 users liked this useful post by jvuye		MikeR, river6109
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oltrix		#3 Posted : 14 January 2018 11:25:34(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/12/2017(UTC) Posts: 9 Location: Berlin, Berlin		Thanks a bunch! I dismantled the engine and reassembled it taking extra care with the alignment, and the noise went away. Awesome, now I know where that noise comes from, as I have it with a few other old locs. The question with the resistors that are no resistors but Enstördrösseln, whatever that might be in English, interference suppressors maybe. Are they required? What do they actually do? My thought is as the loc runs now, should I take it apart again and mount the Entstördrosseln at the engine connectors?


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RayF		#4 Posted : 14 January 2018 11:38:14(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,839 Location: Gibraltar, Europe		Originally Posted by: oltrix Thanks a bunch! I dismantled the engine and reassembled it taking extra care with the alignment, and the noise went away. Awesome, now I know where that noise comes from, as I have it with a few other old locs. The question with the resistors that are no resistors but Enstördrösseln, whatever that might be in English, interference suppressors maybe. Are they required? What do they actually do? My thought is as the loc runs now, should I take it apart again and mount the Entstördrosseln at the engine connectors? The 'Entstördrosseln ' you mention are inductors or chokes in English. The motor will work without them, and earlier versions of the ESU decoder kits did not bring them at all. I have heard two different versions about why they are required. The most common explanation is as interference suppression, to avoid interference with TV and radio signals. I have also read that they help to suppress 'spikes' of high voltage from sparks within the motor and so protect the motor outputs of the decoder. If you don't want to risk another disassembly of the loco then I would leave it as it is!
		Ray Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.

1 user liked this useful post by RayF		Brakeman
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jvuye		#5 Posted : 14 January 2018 11:55:28(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,881 Location: South Western France		Originally Posted by: oltrix Thanks a bunch! I dismantled the engine and reassembled it taking extra care with the alignment, and the noise went away. Awesome, now I know where that noise comes from, as I have it with a few other old locs. The question with the resistors that are no resistors but Enstördrösseln, whatever that might be in English, interference suppressors maybe. Are they required? What do they actually do? My thought is as the loc runs now, should I take it apart again and mount the Entstördrosseln at the engine connectors? Good job on the "mechanical tuning"! The "Entstördrosseln" have been a source of endless discussions (here and elsewhere... ) . They're supposed to protect the decoder against abrupt occasional surges caused by the commutation on the rotor and reduced RF interference as not to hamper your neighbours' TV reception. Probably needed most in the days when people were still listening to AM radio and watching analog TV... So I still install them, but I no longer try to demonstrate or convince myself wether it is needed or not. It simply doesn't hurt AFAIK. But the potentially truly hurtful component on Märklin's brush plates are the factory installed capacitors. ESU recommends that you remove them, and I agree. I have had several cases of fried decoders' output stages because the capacitor(s) were defective and shorting the outputs. This was especially true also with (older) HAG locos that came equipped with cheap polystyrene capacitors. It never missed: they were always bad! (..and blew up the new decoders!! ) And a last word: take the time to fine tune the motor regulation parameters ...You'll love it even better! Cheers Jacques
		Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!

1 user liked this useful post by jvuye		Brakeman
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