This post is not meant for the experts!

I recently re discovered the pleasures of "teppichbahning" in analog mode on M-track, and embarked on a mission to use as much of my m-track as possible in an automated layout. I had managed to lay down about 350 pieces of track, 20 turnouts, 15 signals and use 45 m of wire in a 5mx2m layout when I decided enough was enough :)

In keeping with this nostalgic process, I decided to recommission quite a bit of old tin plate rolling stock I have accumulated over the years, and had to spend a few frustrating hours in dealing with derailments. I realise now how much I had forgotten about tin coaches. I might not be the only one, I also noticed a few new arrivals in the forum with questions around M-track so I thought I would share a few points.

I am talking here about Märklin M-track of the 5000 series and the coaches and wagons of the 4000 series that are either completely made of tinplate, or have a tinplate undercarriage. These can have either metal bogies (trucks) with attached metal coupling, or fixed wheels and separate metal coupling permanently attached to the undercarriage. In this case, both metal couplings are linked with a tension spring which centres the couplings.

If you are not the 1st owner, you generally do not know how the rolling stock has been treated, but anything coming from a starter set or very cheap when new is likely to have had a hard life so will need some attention one way or the other.

So, you have laid your m-track, your first test drives with a few different locos went very well, no derailments, switching tracks, signals, turnouts are working perfectly. Time for some rolling stock. Suddenly, nothing works anymore, your DSG Speisewagen seems to have a mind of its own, your "Donerbuchsen" are jumping all over the place, your nice automated plan transforms into a derailment mess, basically you have created a monster.

Things to check:
1) In first instance: the track! This may sound basic, but locomotives are heavier than rolling stock, so issues may not be obvious at first.
Although M-track is meant to be frequently disassembled and reassembled, it has a tendency to bend and fishplates can get squeezed under the rail easily. Whatever the scenario, both rails need to be level with the next track, and pieces of track should be level. Use your fingers fingers to feel the rail junctions, the smallest difference in height will make wheels jump off at speed. Bent track pieces should be bent back to level. If you have inclines, make sure there are no sudden drops.

Now you have checked your track and corrected a few mistakes here and there, time for another test. Things should be better, however, the "DSG Speisewagen" still has a mind of its own in random spots, the "Donerbuchsen" are more stable, but negotiating some turnouts successfully seems to be a question of luck...

Time to check the coaches and wagons:

2) Wheels:
- Can they move freely? If not, check the axles are properly inserted in their holding holes on each side. A little screwdriver can be used to push them back into place, or bend the axle holding plates back in shape so the wheel axles are held in place.
- Are the axles clean? Remove dirt and fluff, add a drop of oil
- Are the axles straight? If not, they either need to be bent back in shape or more likely replaced.
- Are couplers whole? This might not be a problem, depending on the layout, as long as the hook is still present.
- Are the wheel flanges whole? If not, change the wheels.
- Can the bogies move freely? If the bogies move more to one side, check the footplates on the side of the coaches as these can get bent inwards, carefully adjust with pliers.


3) Couplings:

- Couplings should not catch the buffers, if they do they need adjusting.
- On most goods wagons and some short coaches (for example 4001), there should be a spring joining both couplings, this keeps the couplings aligned. If it is missing it should be replaced as it prevents the coupling from getting caught when turning.
- Coaches/Wagons should couple with no manual intervention or use of force when pushed against the next one on a straight and level track. If this doesn't happen then the couplings need adjusting.

Adjusting is done best using the Marklin coupling gauge 7001 on a level section of track. The coupler's height and level can be adjusted by gentle use of pliers as per instructions:



2 things not specifically mentioned in the instructions:
a) make sure the hook plate is horizontal
b) check the height of the decoupling latch (the lowest element of the coupling), it should be high enough not to get caught in the centre studs (pukos). Check these on a turnout or electric crossing, where the pukos are taller. You can bend the latch towards the back to achieve better clearance.

Now you have checked and adjusted everything, it is time for another test drive. Things should be OK now, the passengers in the DSG Speisewagen should be able to enjoy their soup in complete safety, the turnouts are no longer a problem for the "Donerbuchsen".

You should experience a few hours of relatively trouble free "Teppichbahning", if things suddenly start to go wrong again, it will most likely be due to a movement in the track, although it is a good idea to perform a check after a derailment to make sure nothing has been bent in the process.

A few words about spares:

- Wheel sets for these types of coaches are not always available to purchase new from Märklin. I know of one type: the 700100. Check the diameter of the original wheels as well as the profile of the axles before ordering to make sure these will fit, and you may need to change the entire set of wheels on your coach in this case. Newer models do not fit as the axle ends have a different profile, and wheels have a different diameter.
Otherwise, used wheel sets can be quite expensive, I think I have come across a few places that do reproduction wheel sets, but these are very expensive for what they are.
- Wagon couplings and bogies for coaches are also no longer available new.
The cheapest option I found was the buy some old rusty carriages which often come as a lot on auction or classifieds sites and use them for parts. There is still new old stock popping up from time to time, but at a price.
Here are the references for the bogies:


- Coupling tension springs are still available to buy new from Märklin for a few cents a piece.
765510 - car 4018, 4513, 4617, 4618, 4917
765520 - car 4600, 4607, 4610
765530 - car 4000, 4040, 4500, 4501,4502, 4503, 4504, 4505, 4506, 4508, 4509, 4510, 4511, 4550, 4601, 4602, 4604, 4605, 4612, 4613, 4619, 4639, 4658, 4902
765540 - car 4627, 4634, 4637, 4640, 4660, 4666, 4667, 4918, 4934, 4937

- Coupling gauge 7001 is still available new for around 3 euro.

I hope those returning to the hobby or the forgetful amongst us will find this useful,

Nic

Edited by user 25 September 2017 06:46:21(UTC)  | Reason: added reference to 700100 wheel set

Many thanks for this, Keep them coming!

I have been getting back into the 'M' system recently and a fine thin nosed pair of pliers seems an essential.

I look forward to your hints and tips for old turntables, switch tracks and signals.

Oh, and yes, a masterclass in adjusting the little leaf springs above the front and rear bogies of locomotives like 3030.

All part of the analogue fun!