 Joined: 07/03/2017(UTC) Posts: 3 Location: Alberta, Calgary
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Hello everyone.
I'm brand new here and run a three track system with a Marklin Central station 2 and I have a question.
I just got a new train set that came with a Roco engine. Is it possible to convert it from a DC to an AC?
If so what do I need to do and do I need to get a new decoder for it?
Thanks for any advise in advance.
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 Joined: 21/05/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,768 Location: Brisbane, Queensland
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I have done a few myself and I don't think it is worth the hassle. I did them because there was no AC version available from anyone in the right livery.
To convert to AC you would need to find a location for a pickup shoe (slider) and install it under the underside, wire it up and also re-wire the wheels.
Depending on the age of the locomotive, you should not need to do anything with the motor or the decoder though.
What model Roco is it? Unless it is something special to you, I would sell it and buy the same model in AC. |
modelling era IIIa (1951-1955) Germany |
 1 user liked this useful post by applor
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Joined: 21/09/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,730 Location: Toronto
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While I agree with applor, do keep in mind that in Italy the local train forum members do such conversions all the time. One reason is that sometimes there are Italian locos in 2 rail that Marklin does not make.
If you like tinkering with the loco and are able to do the work yourself, it might be fun to try it. But otherwise, I don't think it makes sense to do it.
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Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,874 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
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it would have to be special model which you adore and wouldn't want to get rid of it, to change it to 3 rail is actually quite simple and even simpler when you run your E-loco from the overhead system. I buy most of my locos from Roco in DC, they have more axles powered and I use a reflection piece of alfoil to activate my opto couplers.
to convert them all you have to do is combine the 2 wires (+ & -) and connect it to the circuit board (track connection and than use another wire to connect to the slider. sometimes if not all the times you can order spare parts for an AC version and this would only apply to the bottom bogie plate and maybe one axle. but it wouldn't cost you an arm and a leg.
John |
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1 user liked this useful post by river6109
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 Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,870 Location: Gibraltar, Europe
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I converted a couple of old Lima 2 rail models to run on my Marklin layout years ago. One, a SNCF BB7200, was a success and I still run her. The other was a cheap steeple-cab diesel that came with a starter set and never ran well at all. I did manage to fit a slider and get it running off the third rail, but the mechanism started falling apart and I eventually gave up.
The main problem involved in the conversion is being able to add the slider on the loco. The BB7200 I converted had a recessed groove in the unpowered bogie and a very convenient hole for a screw in the middle of it. The Marklin slider fitted with no modification required to the slider or the bogie. All I needed to do was to solder a wire to the contact on the slider.
I have seen some DC locos that would defy any attempts to add a slider. Make sure you can get a look at the bottom of the loco before buying one with a view to conversion to 3 rail! |
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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1 user liked this useful post by RayF
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 Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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Originally Posted by: whitrav  Hello everyone.
I'm brand new here and run a three track system with a Marklin Central station 2 and I have a question.
I just got a new train set that came with a Roco engine. Is it possible to convert it from a DC to an AC?
If so what do I need to do and do I need to get a new decoder for it?
Thanks for any advise in advance. Welcome to the forum. Since you are new, we 'd love to hear a little bit more about you and your hobby in the form of a short introduction. As for your question: it would help greatly if you'd be more specific about the ROCO model in question. I have converted hundreds of locos and other rolling stock from 2 to 3 rail, and if there are a couple of general rules to apply, I have found that it is hard to get you a "cover-it-all" recipe for a successful conversion. Some are quite easy, some are very tough and may even require machining /manufacturing/ordering special parts. The "small ones" are not always the "easy ones" either. A couple of pictures (especially the underneath part of the chassis to see the axle and transmission layout) and/or description would definitely make us able to give you targeted recommendations. Chances are , one of us has already performed the same conversion, so you may even get lucky! looking forward to your pictures! Cheers Jacques |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
4 users liked this useful post by jvuye
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Joined: 07/03/2017(UTC) Posts: 3 Location: Alberta, Calgary
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Originally Posted by: jvuye Originally Posted by: whitrav Hello everyone.
I'm brand new here and run a three track system with a Marklin Central station 2 and I have a question.
I just got a new train set that came with a Roco engine. Is it possible to convert it from a DC to an AC?
If so what do I need to do and do I need to get a new decoder for it?
Thanks for any advise in advance. Welcome to the forum. Since you are new, we 'd love to hear a little bit more about you and your hobby in the form of a short introduction. As for your question: it would help greatly if you'd be more specific about the ROCO model in question. I have converted hundreds of locos and other rolling stock from 2 to 3 rail, and if there are a couple of general rules to apply, I have found that it is hard to get you a "cover-it-all" recipe for a successful conversion. Some are quite easy, some are very tough and may even require machining /manufacturing/ordering special parts. The "small ones" are not always the "easy ones" either. A couple of pictures (especially the underneath part of the chassis to see the axle and transmission layout) and/or description would definitely make us able to give you targeted recommendations. Chances are , one of us has already performed the same conversion, so you may even get lucky! looking forward to your pictures! Cheers Jacques Sorry that I did not include the Roco number. It is Roco # 72176 Steamlocomotive BR 50, DR. As for the underside the copper pickups are on the front two sets and the back two sets of wheels on the engine. With the insulated wheels on the last set of wheels on the tender where the motor is. As to who I am. I'm 37 and just starting out my own layout for the first time. I've spent most of my life helping my father with is layouts that are mostly North American. I wanted to try modeling European after seeing layouts on YouTube. I find personally most North American layouts are the same and lack imagination. Where has with European layouts there seems to be more variety. As to what I would like my layout to look like is Western Germany from the 1920s to late 30s. Edited by moderator 08 March 2017 20:31:15(UTC)
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Joined: 21/09/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,730 Location: Toronto
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Sounds like a good plan. Now all you have to do is go about making it a reality.   |
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 Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 3,298 Location: Patagonia
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Welcome to the forum!!!! Ahhhh, epoche II  welcome here also.... As for the loco, if it hasnt an AC version, to fix a slider can be very annoying, a not so flexible solution might be to put the slider on a Marklin coach and use CC couplers ( hopefully for a more reliable brand than M). Regards |
 German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL |
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Joined: 21/05/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,768 Location: Brisbane, Queensland
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Originally Posted by: whitrav
Sorry that I did not include the Roco number. It is Roco # 72176 Steamlocomotive BR 50, DR.
As for the underside the copper pickups are on the front two sets and the back two sets of wheels on the engine. With the insulated wheels on the last set of wheels on the tender where the motor is.
As to who I am. I'm 37 and just starting out my own layout for the first time. I've spent most of my life helping my father with is layouts that are mostly North American.
I wanted to try modeling European after seeing layouts on YouTube. I find personally most North American layouts are the same and lack imagination. Where has with European layouts there seems to be more variety.
As to what I would like my layout to look like is Western Germany from the 1920s to late 30s.
The BR50 is one of the most available models around, so I would suggest to sell it and get an AC one. Yours is epoch 4 DDR (east Germany). https://www.roco.cc/de/p...501-002001/products.htmlFor a full list of BR50's: http://www.modellbau-wiki.de/wiki/BR_50#Spur_H0You want WS for Wechselstrom which is AC. Then it depends on if you want sound or not. |
modelling era IIIa (1951-1955) Germany |
1 user liked this useful post by applor
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Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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Originally Posted by: whitrav ....
Sorry that I did not include the Roco number. It is Roco # 72176 Steamlocomotive BR 50, DR.
As for the underside the copper pickups are on the front two sets and the back two sets of wheels on the engine. With the insulated wheels on the last set of wheels on the tender where the motor is.
....
Ok, this may not be that complicated after all, but maybe a little too complex if this is your first conversion. This loco had the motor in the tender and it drives both two axles of the tender and 5 axles of the loco. There are/were 3 rail versions of that tender so, looking at the "ET-Blatt" (the sheet with all the spare parts list and illustrations) I guess there is a provision to mount a pick up shoe under the front / unpowered bogie of the tender Then it is a simple matter of rewiring the left and right set of wheels' pick-up contacts together and changing their connection to the little PCB that holds the decoder in the tender and adding the wire from the newly installed center rail pick up . If you were here/near I'd invite you to come over and we would use this as a learning example...but although I have a few friends in Calgary, I am not about to come over any day soon! Cheers Jacques |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
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 Joined: 18/08/2016(UTC) Posts: 18 Location: Central, Hong Kong
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Hello mate Here is a video showing you how to do it on a roco taurus An even easier way would be a housing swap over; this is how I run exotic livery trains usually only available in DC on my marklin tracks without even touching a soldering iron. Granted I only do epoch v and later.
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3 users liked this useful post by dietcoke777
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Joined: 07/03/2017(UTC) Posts: 3 Location: Alberta, Calgary
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Thank You all for the information. I will give it a try and let you all know how it turns out.
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