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Offline vnangli  
#1 Posted : 23 February 2017 23:52:59(UTC)
vnangli

United States   
Joined: 01/02/2015(UTC)
Posts: 156
Location: Indiana, Warsaw
Marklin fans,
I have this Orient Express car set 42795. The lights in the second car (sleeper car) aren't working. But what surprised me is that the lights in the rest of the cars work just fine when all are connected together except the second car.
Even though the cars have warranty, I wanted to explore options of repairing it myself for the fun of spending time. But there are so minutely detailed parts, I am not able to figure out the sequence of disassembly. And I am unable to locate any literature.
Have anyone of you tried it? Can someone help me?
Thanks
Offline H0  
#2 Posted : 24 February 2017 08:12:14(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,262
Location: DE-NW
Hi!

Different ref. number, but same moulds (I assume):
https://www.marklin-user...2-Coach-Lighting-Problem

I hope this thread helps.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by H0
Offline dickinsonj  
#3 Posted : 24 February 2017 14:34:57(UTC)
dickinsonj

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,680
Location: Crozet, Virginia
Originally Posted by: H0 Go to Quoted Post

Different ref. number, but same moulds (I assume):
https://www.marklin-user...2-Coach-Lighting-Problem

Tom is correct - your set is from the same moulds as my 26922 set. I posted how I got all of mine working properly in the thread that he provided the link for. All of my coaches passed current forward perfectly but the issue was inside the coaches where the ground path contacts the PCB.

I was just running that train last night and all of the lights continue to work perfectly. Fingers crossed. BigGrin

Edited by user 25 February 2017 14:48:04(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Regards,
Jim

I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by dickinsonj
Offline JohnjeanB  
#4 Posted : 24 February 2017 21:17:55(UTC)
JohnjeanB

France   
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3,114
Location: Paris, France
Originally Posted by: vnangli Go to Quoted Post
Marklin fans,
I have this Orient Express car set 42795. The lights in the second car (sleeper car) aren't working. But what surprised me is that the lights in the rest of the cars work just fine when all are connected together except the second car.
Even though the cars have warranty, I wanted to explore options of repairing it myself for the fun of spending time. But there are so minutely detailed parts, I am not able to figure out the sequence of disassembly. And I am unable to locate any literature.
Have anyone of you tried it? Can someone help me?
Thanks


Hi,

One possibility is that the rail return pick-up is not connected to the Inside lighting so before trying to open it, make sure the wheel pick-up is wired & installed OK
Cheers

Jean
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by JohnjeanB
Offline mike c  
#5 Posted : 25 February 2017 02:49:24(UTC)
mike c

Canada   
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC)
Posts: 7,890
Location: Montreal, QC
Originally Posted by: vnangli Go to Quoted Post
Marklin fans,
I have this Orient Express car set 42795. The lights in the second car (sleeper car) aren't working. But what surprised me is that the lights in the rest of the cars work just fine when all are connected together except the second car.
Even though the cars have warranty, I wanted to explore options of repairing it myself for the fun of spending time. But there are so minutely detailed parts, I am not able to figure out the sequence of disassembly. And I am unable to locate any literature.
Have anyone of you tried it? Can someone help me?
Thanks


I think that it is quite likely that the passengers in the second coach have already gone to sleep, while the others continue to party into the night.

But seriously, your issue is almost certainly a wiring or connection issue between the lighting and the brown (return lead) to that coach's axles. The first suggestion would be to inspect the bogies to ensure that the axle pickups are present and are making contact with the axles. The next thing to do is to ensure that the cable from the axle pickup is properly connected to the correct terminal on the lighting.

If the problem is with the cable, it is probably easier to swap out the axle contact with the cable in one piece. If the problem is with the light terminal, it might require a little costlier part swap.

If the lighting is analog, you can test the lights in the coach using leads attached to a 9V battery. If the lighting uses a digital control, do not test the light leads while connected to the output of the decoder.

Regards

Mike C
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by mike c
Offline vnangli  
#6 Posted : 25 February 2017 03:08:46(UTC)
vnangli

United States   
Joined: 01/02/2015(UTC)
Posts: 156
Location: Indiana, Warsaw
This morning I tested the cars again after I pressed the roof just to take care of any loose connections. I did the same with the floor frame as well. That did the trick and lights were working, however I believe this may not be a permanent solution.
I am considering to disassemble the car like like Jim did..But maybe over the weekend.
Thank you all for the help, I will keep you posted on my explorations.
Have a great weekend
Vijay
Offline dickinsonj  
#7 Posted : 25 February 2017 14:58:31(UTC)
dickinsonj

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,680
Location: Crozet, Virginia
Originally Posted by: mike c Go to Quoted Post

But seriously, your issue is almost certainly a wiring or connection issue between the lighting and the brown (return lead) to that coach's axles. The first suggestion would be to inspect the bogies to ensure that the axle pickups are present and are making contact with the axles. The next thing to do is to ensure that the cable from the axle pickup is properly connected to the correct terminal on the lighting.
Mike C


Mike,

This is a different design for the axle pickup than normal Märklin practice. My dealer said it was an old Trix design that was well past needing to be redone. The axle pickup (some call it a wiper) just rests on a metal stud on the underside of the truck and is held in place only by the tension from the pickup against the axle. There is no wire connecting it to the PCB but a metal rod in the truck which sticks up into the coach. Over that rod slides a sleeve which is connected through a slot in the PCB, which is where my problem was.

The first thing I did was check the external parts, which turned out to be working fine. I posted a couple of images that show the PCB part of that system. My dealer suggests soldering over that junction to improve what has apparently been an issue in many coaches in the past. When/if they stop working again I will most likely do that but for now I am letting sleeping dogs lie.
Regards,
Jim

I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time.
Offline kiwiAlan  
#8 Posted : 25 February 2017 19:03:05(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,102
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: JohnjeanB Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: vnangli Go to Quoted Post
Marklin fans,
I have this Orient Express car set 42795. The lights in the second car (sleeper car) aren't working. But what surprised me is that the lights in the rest of the cars work just fine when all are connected together except the second car.
Even though the cars have warranty, I wanted to explore options of repairing it myself for the fun of spending time. But there are so minutely detailed parts, I am not able to figure out the sequence of disassembly. And I am unable to locate any literature.
Have anyone of you tried it? Can someone help me?
Thanks


Hi,

One possibility is that the rail return pick-up is not connected to the Inside lighting so before trying to open it, make sure the wheel pick-up is wired & installed OK
Cheers

Jean


Because these cars were originally designed by Trix they have a very different arrangement to the usual Marklin arrangement for the lights. The most likely cause is the connection to the lighting PCB as noted above.

Offline kiwiAlan  
#9 Posted : 25 February 2017 19:08:49(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,102
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: dickinsonj Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: mike c Go to Quoted Post

But seriously, your issue is almost certainly a wiring or connection issue between the lighting and the brown (return lead) to that coach's axles. The first suggestion would be to inspect the bogies to ensure that the axle pickups are present and are making contact with the axles. The next thing to do is to ensure that the cable from the axle pickup is properly connected to the correct terminal on the lighting.
Mike C


Mike,

This is a different design for the axle pickup than normal Märklin practice. My dealer said it was an old Trix design that was well past needing to be redone. The axle pickup (some call it a wiper) just rests on a metal stud on the underside of the truck and is held in place only by the tension from the pickup against the axle. There is no wire connecting it to the PCB but a metal rod in the truck which sticks up into the coach. Over that rod slides a sleeve which is connected through a slot in the PCB, which is where my problem was.

The first thing I did was check the external parts, which turned out to be working fine. I posted a couple of images that show the PCB part of that system. My dealer suggests soldering over that junction to improve what has apparently been an issue in many coaches in the past. When/if they stop working again I will most likely do that but for now I am letting sleeping dogs lie.


My thought is to use a piece of fine wire such as 30 gauge wire wrap wire. Solder one end to the metal socket and the other end to the PCB track at the end of the slot. I would also do it for both ends , not just the ground end.

Offline dickinsonj  
#10 Posted : 26 February 2017 03:41:12(UTC)
dickinsonj

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,680
Location: Crozet, Virginia
Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan Go to Quoted Post

My thought is to use a piece of fine wire such as 30 gauge wire wrap wire. Solder one end to the metal socket and the other end to the PCB track at the end of the slot. I would also do it for both ends , not just the ground end.

I agree about doing both ends since they are the same trouble prone design and are of equal importance.

The design looks like it should work, since there is a spring that holds the sleeve tightly in the slot in the PCB. But in reality it does not provide a secure and reliable connection. There was no one thing that clearly was the cause in mine . The biggest issue seemed to be that the sleeves on the PCB had worked their way upward on the pins during shipment and were no longer tightly seated. Seating the PCB fixed two of the five problem coaches in my set but the other three took more fiddling about and although they are working fine at the moment I do expect more trouble with them in the future.

Using wire to connect the two is a much a better idea than just using solder. I haven't given it much thought yet, but I will figure something out whenever the day comes to fix these correctly.

If anyone comes up with a nice clean solution for this problem, pictures are always welcome. Cool
Regards,
Jim

I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time.
Offline kiwiAlan  
#11 Posted : 26 February 2017 14:22:19(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,102
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: dickinsonj Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan Go to Quoted Post

My thought is to use a piece of fine wire such as 30 gauge wire wrap wire. Solder one end to the metal socket and the other end to the PCB track at the end of the slot. I would also do it for both ends , not just the ground end.

I agree about doing both ends since they are the same trouble prone design and are of equal importance.

The design looks like it should work, since there is a spring that holds the sleeve tightly in the slot in the PCB. But in reality it does not provide a secure and reliable connection. There was no one thing that clearly was the cause in mine . The biggest issue seemed to be that the sleeves on the PCB had worked their way upward on the pins during shipment and were no longer tightly seated. Seating the PCB fixed two of the five problem coaches in my set but the other three took more fiddling about and although they are working fine at the moment I do expect more trouble with them in the future.

Using wire to connect the two is a much a better idea than just using solder. I haven't given it much thought yet, but I will figure something out whenever the day comes to fix these correctly.

If anyone comes up with a nice clean solution for this problem, pictures are always welcome. Cool


I need to attack my coaches in the near future, so will try and remember to grab some photos as I would on them.

thanks 1 user liked this useful post by kiwiAlan
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