Joined: 13/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 22
Location: chester,
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Hi all! i'm new to the site and relitivley new to modeling, i have a number of marklin sets that i know are analogue.
i have been thinking of purchacing a new digital starter set. but will i be able to use my analogue loco's in conjunction with a digital set?
will the new digital loco work with my exhisting "C" track and transformer?
thanks, Alex |
student moddeler,just starting out |
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 Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 3,298 Location: Patagonia
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You can, using isolated circuits.
The digital locs can be used with no problem in analog layouts, but the analog ones will run at full speed ever on a digital one. |
 German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL |
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Joined: 13/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 22
Location: chester,
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and also if i'm going to purchace a loc over the net how do i know if it is digital or analogue? |
student moddeler,just starting out |
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Joined: 12/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 2,528
Location: Groton, Connecticut
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Welcome to the forum and the hobby Alex. You can convert your analog locs to digital if you desire, there are many posts on this forum on how to do this. All C-track is the same wether or not it came from an analog start-set or a digital one. Your digital loc will run with the old transformer.
Ira |
Building German Era I-II layout(Mk IIIc).  |
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Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 3,298 Location: Patagonia
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Asking the seller, or check the marklin catalogs (or here  ) with the item number..... Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by zand 1985
<br />and also if i'm going to purchace a loc over the net how do i know if it is digital or analogue?
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German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL |
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Joined: 12/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 2,528
Location: Groton, Connecticut
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As general rule of thumb locs with a 4 digit item number are analog, locs with five digits are digital. Example: 3xxx is analog, 37xxx is digital, 33xxx is most likely Delta(Delta was the first step to digital), but will work with the new digital equipment.
Ira |
Building German Era I-II layout(Mk IIIc). |
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Joined: 19/10/2001(UTC)
Posts: 2,379
Location: Lindome, Sweden
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Also 36xx and 37xx are digital, maybe also 34xx (Delta).
/Lars
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 Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,692 Location: United Kingdom
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Welcome to the forum zand 1985! Good to see new member in UK.You need Delta/digital loco on digital layout. |
Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy. |
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Joined: 30/10/2005(UTC)
Posts: 117
Location: ,
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Hi Alex, Almost all locos are described on: http://www.bahn.hfkern.de/Maerklin/Menue.htmlIt's in german, but easy to follow even for those who don't know german language very well. I recommend you learn to convert your old locos in digital. Also it is not usually very expensive to let your dealer to take care of the conversions. You will find many good advise in this forum. Juha |
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Joined: 09/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 315
Location: Ohio, USA
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zand 1985,
I am also new to hobby. I bought a set containing a mobil station and had the problem of one of my first purchased locs running at full speed. I discovered upon taking the top off the engine that there were four dip switches hidden under there. If you change those switches the loc will run as a digital. Look at the instruction book that came with the loc. It should tell what you need to do if the loc has the ability to be digital.
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Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 3,298 Location: Patagonia
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Weel, it was then a Delta loco, not really digital, but it will do, but delta have very poor performance on digital control.... |
German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL |
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Joined: 16/07/2002(UTC)
Posts: 1,575
Location: DeSoto (Dallas area), TX
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Analog (non-digital) Loks are controlled by increasing (faster) or decreasing (slower) the voltage. Digital systems have constant voltage, with a 'radio' signal added. The decoder in the Lok reads the signal and controls the Lok. Analog Loks run at a constant (full) speed on digital layouts. Most digital decoders (all of Marklin's) can detect AC control voltages and run OK on analog layouts. One trick I have used in the past is to have catenary as AC (analog) and track as digital, or track as AC and catenary as digital. (Only works if you have E-Loks  and not with MS/CS[xx(]) You need to say if you have MS/CS as controller. Much harder to switch from MS to Analog. (Ugly Box gets in the way[:p]) |
The McLae
IB digital, DB, OBB, SBB epII-V
Providing a home for little lost 'Gators |
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Joined: 13/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 22
Location: chester,
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Wow wot a response thanks for all the input guy's. Seems like a very friendly forum. I think i'm going to enjoy my time here! I have 7 loc in all and i'm definaly going to look into converting them to digital as it seems like thats the best option.
Is it much work? could i do it? if not is it expensive? |
student moddeler,just starting out |
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Joined: 13/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 22
Location: chester,
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here's a list of the loc's that i have.
starter sets - 2963, 2960, & 29215. (all of these sets state "delta" on them? will these delta loc's have to be converted to digital?
i also have 3375 (does not state it is compatible with digital or delta) and 30881 this states it is compatible with digital and delta.
i also have two much older loc's 3085 and another which i don't know the number of as it is unboxed.
i was thinking of selling these two older loc's and 2 of the starter sets 29215 & 2960. How much would i be looking at for these?
sorry about all of the questions.
Alex |
student moddeler,just starting out |
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Joined: 19/10/2001(UTC)
Posts: 2,379
Location: Lindome, Sweden
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If it has 'Delta' on it, it is usable with digital for sure. It's another story, that they behave much better if converted to 'modern decoders' and permanent magnet.
If you are not sure, remove the shell and look insider. If it has an electromagnetic relay (3085 probably) it's analog for sure. If it has a printed circuit with DIP-switches it's some kind of digital decoder. There exist two kind of other printed circuits which is more difficult to identify, but you will probably not have one of those.
If you are after value for money, it's a good idea to sell your analog locos, and buy digital ones. But if you are a little more nostalgic, converting is rather fun to do yourself. You can look around at this site for some conversion sessions, to get the idea.
/Lars
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 Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,870 Location: Gibraltar, Europe
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Hi Alex,
From the numbers you have given, most of your locos are delta and will already work with digital anyway. Just open them up and set the DIP switches as per the instructions.
Your 3375 and 3085 are easily converted with a delta decoder if you don't want to spend too much money. I have done just that with my 3085.
It is true that some Delta locos do not run as well as newer fully digital locos, but some of them run quite nicely. As an example, my 3374, which is a blue and cream version of the 3375 (Br216), has a factory fitted delta decoder and runs as well digitally as it does in analogue mode.
Out of curiosity, which is your other old loco? Is it steam, diesel or electric, and what is the running number? The running number is the one on the side of the cab on most steam locos, or half way along the body on electrics and diesels. |
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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Joined: 13/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 22
Location: chester,
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It's steam and the running number is 89005 |
student moddeler,just starting out |
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Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,870 Location: Gibraltar, Europe
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Ah, our old friend the Br89. This is a 3000, or if older than 1958, it is a CM800.
Every Marklin enthusiast should have one of these. Hang onto it as you won't expect to get more than about 10 quid for it! |
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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Joined: 16/07/2002(UTC)
Posts: 1,575
Location: DeSoto (Dallas area), TX
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Cost of conversions: If you are good at soldering, you can buy a decoder for anywhere from 20Eu to 120EU. (Cheap PD101 and new Loksound ) Or almost any amount in between. If you want a professional to do the conversion, add about 20-30EU to the price (plus any shipping). I personally prefer the following: 1. Marklin motor refit parts from 6090X kit, (Shield, rotor, magnet, etc) about 10$. Your favorite dealer will have these. 2. Uhlenbrock NEM 652 socket (#71 621). This lets you use *any* NMRA/NEM 8-pin decoder. 3. ESU Lokpilot multiprotocol version. (DCC and Marklin.Mot.) When function testing is done, sometimes I swap in a Loksound decoder. (This is why part #2) Eventually, I will swap in an MFX decoder. Note that most non-marklin AC Loks (Such as from Roco) already have a NEM 652 socket. Very easy to drop in a decoder in these Loks. Look for "DCC Ready". Converting a Lok to digital can get you very close to the inner workings of your Loks.[:I] If this interests you, by all means buy a kit and give it a try!  |
The McLae
IB digital, DB, OBB, SBB epII-V
Providing a home for little lost 'Gators |
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Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 3,298 Location: Patagonia
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German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL |
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 Joined: 22/04/2004(UTC) Posts: 12,139 Location: New York, NY
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... I'm about converting one of my old analog Gators (E194) that way |
I hope no one visits a poor Southener's layout in Brooklyn. Intruders beware of Gators.
AT&SF, D&RGW, T&P, SP, WP, UP, BN, NYC, ARR, epI-III - analog & digital Marklin Classics only.
CU#6021 FX-MOTOROLA DIGITAL SYSTEM. Fast as lightning and no trouble. What else ...
Outlaw Member of BIG JUHAN's OUTSIDER CLUB. With the most members, worldwide
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Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 3,298 Location: Patagonia
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Great decision John!!!!!
You will love it.......and get willing to convert anything at hand...:) |
German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL |
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Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,181 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
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John: I had a small problem with my E94 conversion. One of the motor shield screws interfered with the articulated end. I countersunk the screw into the motorshild about halfway and that solved the problem. Another solution would be to either grind down the head of the screw or buy the Marklin conical head screw made for that purpose. I beleive the part number of the screw is 756080.
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Joined: 22/04/2004(UTC) Posts: 12,139 Location: New York, NY
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Thanks, Francisco and Ron. She'll get a LOKPILOT V2.0 #52600, HAMO magnet #51960, and M's conical screw Plus new paint. Which one is a little secret til I'll post her pics ... |
I hope no one visits a poor Southener's layout in Brooklyn. Intruders beware of Gators.
AT&SF, D&RGW, T&P, SP, WP, UP, BN, NYC, ARR, epI-III - analog & digital Marklin Classics only.
CU#6021 FX-MOTOROLA DIGITAL SYSTEM. Fast as lightning and no trouble. What else ...
Outlaw Member of BIG JUHAN's OUTSIDER CLUB. With the most members, worldwide
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Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,692 Location: United Kingdom
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Congratulations franciscohg on 1000 posts! |
Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy. |
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Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 3,298 Location: Patagonia
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German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL |
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Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,181 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
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John: The HAMO magnet should have the same thickness as the original field magnet, so you shouldn't need the conical screw. The old hardware should work fine.
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