Joined: 21/07/2016(UTC) Posts: 21 Location: New Jersey
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While surfing the web looking for my next diorama ideas and inspirations, I stumbled upon pictures of beautiful half-timbered houses. I think I just found my next project. I normally scratch build my houses with styrene. For US houses, I can obtain the windows and doors easily. For European houses that is a different matter. I know Auhagen put out some windows but the Auhagen dealer in USA is currently out of stock on those items. Then I saw some nice houses by Faller, Kibri, and Vollmer. I ordered a few and I will start with Kibri 38901. Here is the kit contents. Parts seem to fit better than I expected, given the kit is relative cheap.   Added stone textures to the inside of the wall, using modeling paste.  The stucco walls were also treated with thinned down modeling paste.  Never added lights to my model before so I like to give it a try. I airbrushed the interior with black paint, hopefully this will prevent the light from shining through the walls.  The rest of the kit received a few coats of Testor dull coat and white paints.  Edited by user 15 July 2017 06:41:58(UTC)
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 14 users liked this useful post by DSupra
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RayF, applor, seatrains, Danlake, xxup, DamonKelly, GlennM, PJMärklin, plutoodie, LA2019, glight1, boitpo, kweekalot, BrandonVA
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Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,571
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Excellent - do post the final result.
What type of modelling paste are you using?
Brgds Lasse |
Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives. |
 1 user liked this useful post by Danlake
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Joined: 21/07/2016(UTC) Posts: 21 Location: New Jersey
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Hi Danlake, the modeling paste is by Liquitex. Here are the progress so far on the lower structure.    Edited by user 15 July 2017 06:48:12(UTC)
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Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,510 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
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Originally Posted by: DSupra  Hi Danlake, the modeling paste is by Liquitex.
Here are the progress so far on the lower structure. I do like the finish that is giving, really gets away from the plastic look that just doesn't look right.
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 1 user liked this useful post by kiwiAlan
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Joined: 21/07/2016(UTC) Posts: 21 Location: New Jersey
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Hi Alan, I am glad you like it. It is pretty much done, except some roof details and final weathering. I made a big mess trying to weathered the upper structure so I had to spy paint it white and repainted all the timbers. Wasn't fun!       Edited by user 15 July 2017 06:52:13(UTC)
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 10 users liked this useful post by DSupra
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Joined: 18/11/2012(UTC) Posts: 358
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Looks great! Love the weathering. |
Ken USofA |
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Joined: 21/07/2016(UTC) Posts: 21 Location: New Jersey
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Hi Ken, Thanks for checking out the build. The next kit is also by Kibri, 38744. I believe it is some sort of inn. The lower structure is done.   Edited by user 15 July 2017 06:53:35(UTC)
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 4 users liked this useful post by DSupra
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Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 1,291 Location: Port Moody, BC
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Really looks good. What are you using to thin down the modelling paste?
Peter
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 1 user liked this useful post by PMPeter
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Joined: 21/07/2016(UTC) Posts: 21 Location: New Jersey
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Hi Peter, you can thin down the modeling paste with just water. I tinted the wall with heavily thinned down craft paint. I applied 4 layers to get the color result I wanted.   I am intrigued by those beautiful interior finishing added to model buildings. Here is my first attempt. Using cardboards and craft papers for the wall and floor. Furniture are made from styrene and copper wires.   Edited by user 15 July 2017 06:55:52(UTC)
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 8 users liked this useful post by DSupra
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Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 1,291 Location: Port Moody, BC
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Thanks. I looked it up on the Liquitex site and saw that it can be diluted with water. I'm using Squadron and another member has posted here on the forum that he uses lacquer thinner to dilute that. I'm a little reluctant to try that so I might give the Liquitex a try.
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Joined: 21/07/2016(UTC) Posts: 21 Location: New Jersey
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Just a quick update. I finished the interior and painted a few figures as well.   Edited by user 15 July 2017 06:57:54(UTC)
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 9 users liked this useful post by DSupra
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Joined: 21/07/2016(UTC) Posts: 21 Location: New Jersey
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Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 3,997
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Joined: 27/06/2012(UTC) Posts: 3,478 Location: Holland
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Joined: 04/06/2012(UTC) Posts: 320 Location: Adelaide
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Just an Idea re the lighting of buildings, would it be worthwhile using small sections of masking tape on the internal walls in the corners and between levels then paint these black as well to stop light seepage?
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Joined: 01/01/2007(UTC) Posts: 643 Location: Alberta
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Excellent work!
What brand of paints do you use?
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Joined: 21/07/2016(UTC) Posts: 21 Location: New Jersey
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Sorry for the late reply and thanks guys for your kind words.
Ausipeet - I am sure you can use masking tape to block the light. I would seal off the edges of the masking tape with superglue to prevent the tape from lifting over time. I choose the airbrush route because it is quicker.
Darren - I used a mixed of paints. It depends on the colors I have on hand, my mood as well as the drying time I am trying to achieve. Here are the paints I normally use. Cheap craft store paints from Micheals, Tamiya, Vallejo, Woodland Scenic, Liquitex acrylic tube paints, Testor enamel, AK interactive washes, Koh-I-Noor Ink, Kai watercolor brush pens, Sakura marker and oil paints.
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Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,319 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
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One could use the same approach as on larger houses - latex caulk to seal the seams between building panels, before painting.
Though on this hotel/inn... how do the guests get upstairs? Or is the upstairs the owners on space only? |
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Joined: 21/07/2016(UTC) Posts: 21 Location: New Jersey
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Hi Minok - The original plan was to put the stairs behind the wall by the reception desk. However, looking through the windows, you can't see the stairs. Hence I omitted it. Sorry for the lack of updates. I finally broke down and got myself a Marklin starter set 29479 . I am very impressed with the quality of the products.  Test track.  I am played around in SCARM and tried to design a 8ft x 3ft layout. The possibilities seem endless. After 3 weeks, I finally settled on one and went ahead and ordered more tracks. Now my diorama size just changed from 30"x16" to 8'x3'. The next house is Kibri 38903. Fitting on the kit is very well. The only complaint is that the windows above the first floor are molded in. I made first floor a handbag store. Bags were made with Sculpey, display stands are from styrene.   Added a living room to the second floor. All the furniture are made from styrene.  The wall lamp come from Auhagen lamp post kit. I used hollow tubing for the base.  Finished house with the exception of the roof details.   Edited by user 15 July 2017 07:08:13(UTC)
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 9 users liked this useful post by DSupra
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Joined: 04/12/2013(UTC) Posts: 2,266 Location: Hobart, Australia
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Originally Posted by: DSupra  The next house is Kibri 38903. Fitting on the kit is very well. The only complaint is that the windows above the first floor are molded in. I made first floor a handbag store. Bags were made with Sculpey, display stands are from styrene.
Hello DSupra, I really like the detail of your modelling work. Regards, PJ
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Joined: 13/02/2012(UTC) Posts: 47 Location: Liniers 123 (entre Falkner & Strobel)
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Wonderful craftsmanship! Congratulations for you work.
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Joined: 21/07/2016(UTC) Posts: 21 Location: New Jersey
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Hi PJ and ninobenve - Thanks for the compliments. The next kit is also from Kibri, # 38904. Kit has a few big windows on the lower floor so I decided to make it a convenience store. Shelves are constructed from styrene. The decals are from Faller.    The sidewalk has not been painted cause I am still not sure what to do with it. I will wait till the other buildings are done and work on them together. The third floor window shutters are made from styrene, while the second floor shutters are part styrene and part from the Tichy Train window shutters set.    Time to go back to SCARM to play with layout ideas. Edited by user 15 July 2017 07:11:42(UTC)
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 6 users liked this useful post by DSupra
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Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,466 Location: Scotland
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Very nice work. For outdoor lighting on the walls I use N gauge lights which I think look more to scale on HO buildings. |
Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer. |
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Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,704 Location: United Kingdom
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Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy. |
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Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,319 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
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Excellent work on the stucco surfaces paint job.. very realistic.
Only thing missing is the rain-gutter downspouts to the street. But one must make concession to 1:87.
And that back-door (residential entry) lamp looks too big (not to scale). |
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Joined: 03/11/2007(UTC) Posts: 2,764
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Nice buildings, weathering looks very good. As said before. Don;t use HO scale lamps on the walls, those are too big. I always use N scale lamps for that. For street lights I use of course the HO scale lamps. Like this one  |
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 5 users liked this useful post by pab
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