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Offline thomas buckley  
#1 Posted : 30 May 2016 17:53:03(UTC)
thomas buckley

United States   
Joined: 04/01/2016(UTC)
Posts: 114
Location: California, warner Springs
I have installed an old style catenary system on most of my M track analog layout. It has been challenging and minor speed bumps are still popping up. First question; Part of my layout has Marklin metal bridging. That part of my layout has no catenary. The reason is I have plenty of posts but only have 1 of the "L" shaped metal pieces that attach the posts to the metal bridges. Anybody clue me in or have these pieces for sale?
Next question; My '70's era Marklin 3054 runs great throughout my layout on catenary!! Goes thru turnouts, the "x" crossing I have etc. without hanging up. Ran my 3356? crocodile and it got hung up on curves (adjusted the wires to be centered better over track), on the turnouts and literally hates the 5128 double slip crossing with 7007 catenary crosspiece. ran my BR152 and BR 184 which have single arm pantograph and they hang up at turnouts and especially the 5128 double slip crossing with the 7007 catenary cross piece. after carefully running all my catenary capable locomotives on my layout, the 3054 is only loco that is able to complete the trip. after acquiring the nut and bolt kits from Marklin for securing the catenary wires i eliminated "some" issues but now am turning to the experience of the forum to assist me in "dialing" in the overhead. back to the question, sorry, what should i zero in on as far as adjusting catenary, are the pantographs on 3054 that much different from other marklin pantograph to make them so much more flexible? and are pantographs available for my mentioned locos that are as flexible? what issues am i missing on my first layout with old style catenary? Signed,
Still ecstatic to running analog trains independently on same track guy.
Offline analogmike  
#2 Posted : 31 May 2016 01:02:33(UTC)
analogmike

United States   
Joined: 02/08/2014(UTC)
Posts: 737
Location: NEW JERSEY, USA
Hey Thomas, What are you doin' messing around with catenary. I thought we were trying to fix the turntable?

Anyway,

Building a reliable, live cat system is like training a dog to go to the fridge, and bring you a beer;
It can be done.......But it will take allot of time and patience.

All lok pans track differently on the cat system. The pivot center of the trucks are different than the location of the pans on the roof. Two extremes which come to mind are the krokodil vs. br 151. On the 151 the pan center is forward of the truck causing the pan to run farther out on a curve. The krok pans tend to run toward the inside of the curve. You can't win. All you can do is find the happy medium.

I have an old hag dining car with a pan on the roof. This is what I roll around (back & forth, back & forth) by hand to set the cat wire. On curves I favor the outside by 1/8". I tend to have very good results using this method.

YOU MUST VERIFY THAT THE PAN IS IS NOT BENT.
This is easily done by flipping the car around both ways and taking note.


$_35.JPG


You didn't say if you were using 5120 curves. The tight radius will compound your trouble. Personally, I only use them for "back scratchers".Flapper

On crossovers I feel your painCursing . Here I start out with the 7277 and four masts. Next the soldering gun comes out with a bit of bare copper wire (and a six pack) and voila!

Marklin literature claims "when using the single arm pans the system must be set up very carefully." To be honest , I never had a problem with them.

In switches, elevation of the wire must be equal to the diverging route. Add a tiny bit of solder to the top wire if it won't stay put.

USE YOUR GAUGE CAR! Over & over. You must be precise.

Good luck!Cool Mikey

PS, How's dat turntable?
I love the smell of smoke fluid in the morning .
Offline thomas buckley  
#3 Posted : 31 May 2016 02:39:06(UTC)
thomas buckley

United States   
Joined: 04/01/2016(UTC)
Posts: 114
Location: California, warner Springs
You caught me !!:)) I am out of town and and have not been able to put in motion the tests you posted regarding the turntable. Coincidentally, my cat snuck into train room and did some feline adjusting affecting catenary. I put back the damaged portions, after removing cat, and the catenary issues were magnified. So, in my spare time here, while on trip, the catenary questions came to mind so I posted them. My priority is still the turntable and am anxious to try your solutions!!!! Is it "wrong" for me to have train on the brain while "separated" from my layout? LOL, :))). Hahaha on your "backscratchers". Now I know what to do with mine, :))
Offline analogmike  
#4 Posted : 31 May 2016 02:52:17(UTC)
analogmike

United States   
Joined: 02/08/2014(UTC)
Posts: 737
Location: NEW JERSEY, USA
BTW; Raise the voltage in the catenary until nobody goes near it anymore. Just kidding.

I love the smell of smoke fluid in the morning .
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by analogmike
Offline thomas buckley  
#5 Posted : 31 May 2016 03:07:51(UTC)
thomas buckley

United States   
Joined: 04/01/2016(UTC)
Posts: 114
Location: California, warner Springs
This when i realized she had been in room for the day!!0503161557a.jpg
thanks 3 users liked this useful post by thomas buckley
Offline Markus Schild  
#6 Posted : 31 May 2016 10:24:42(UTC)
Markus Schild

Germany   
Joined: 14/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,802
Location: Wurttemberg
Hi Thomas,

The crossing 7007 was replaced in 1968 with 7277 because the newer pantographs introduced from 1960 did not really like the 7007. Early CAPITOLE 3059 had an additional red notice with the leaflet that the single arm pantographs must not be used with 7007 and all 7007 should be replaced with 7277.

Regards

Markus
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by Markus Schild
Offline petestra  
#7 Posted : 31 May 2016 12:17:40(UTC)
petestra

United States   
Joined: 27/07/2009(UTC)
Posts: 5,824
Location: Leesburg,VA.USA
Hi Thomas. I have 7x 7277 catenary crossings on my layout. It does take patience to work with them but all mine work flawlessly now after a little

bending and shaping. Sorry I can't help you with the bridge parts. Peter Cool
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by petestra
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#8 Posted : 31 May 2016 13:14:50(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,661
Location: New Zealand
Henk at http://www.bear11.be/gb/89-catenary has 7511 bridge masts for sale, but I don't think he sells the metal clip separately (you could ask though).

Pierre at Keesmarklin - http://www.ebay.com/itm/...4210?hash=item2eda49efc2 - also has the 7511 masts.
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by Bigdaddynz
Offline thomas buckley  
#9 Posted : 01 June 2016 23:13:01(UTC)
thomas buckley

United States   
Joined: 04/01/2016(UTC)
Posts: 114
Location: California, warner Springs
found the metal bracket mast assembly at Eckert Engineering. came out less expensive than other places. man, the shipping from outside U.S. can be costly!! $3 for mast and $23 shipping from overseas. EE came out to about $14 each with shipping. thanks 4 help. also had the 7277 cross pieces!! 2 birds, 1 stone.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by thomas buckley
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#10 Posted : 02 June 2016 05:24:48(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,661
Location: New Zealand
Hopefully Eckert come to the party for you, there have been a few reports on the forum of them not communicating with or delivering for buyers - taking money but not delivering, or receiving items for repair but never returning them.

That's why I didn't mention them.
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