 Joined: 19/08/2009(UTC) Posts: 199 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
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For years, I promised myself (and my wife) that I would stick w/ German prototype loks and rolling stock. I always liked the Era 2 & 3 models best as seen in the analog 30xx, 31xx and 33xx series which were readily available on eBay. I picked and chose carefully and accumulated a decent roster of loks and rolling stock. But I always liked the Swiss electric loks and passenger
coaches. So, I was high bidder on a pristine 3014 in original box. After a smooth trial run, I was all ready to open it up and check out the internals and lube status. Fortunately, it came w/ a complete owner's brochure which advised, among other steps to "remove all lamp holders and bulbs"-- that's 3 on each end. And the 3 on the roof look like they have never seen a screwdriver.
Actually all the screw heads on this little gem are unmarked... the silver paint on the roof is unmarked, and I would like to keep it that way for as long as possible.
Does anyone know why the roof headlamps need to be taken off prior to disassembly?
Does anyone know a easier way to lube the commutator shaft and internal gears and gear shafts on this model?
Thanks,
Chas
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 1 user liked this useful post by walters48
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Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,343 Location: Southwest Ohio
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The upper lamps can stay in place to remove the shell, I think you need to remove the lower lamps because they will foul on the upper lamp contact as you lift the shell. To put it back you will have to remove them all because the upper lamp contact will foul on the bottom of those lamps and prevent you from putting it back together. This is a loko that could use a bearing conversion or an SB-Modellbau motor conversion so you won't have to take it apart. I actually sent one a couple weeks ago to SB-Modellbau. |
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397. |
1 user liked this useful post by biedmatt
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 Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,047
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All the above is correct but I've just open one that was handy and I could put it back still without removing top lamps however there is potential for trouble on some locos. A suggestion when you must open pristine locos. Fold either some small piece of paper or cotton (old t-shirt) on the tip of the screwdriver and still be very careful plus do not use a driver that is smaller than the head of the screw, ideally needs to fit perfectly in the slot not loose, tight but not overly as it may not go all the way in and can slip.
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Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,343 Location: Southwest Ohio
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Bearing conversion with 5x2 and 4x1.5mm bearings. It took me 30 minutes to get it set up in my vertical mill. I used the mill instead of my drill press since the bearings in the mill are much tighter and do not allow any wiggle. I assembled the old motor without the armature and used a 2mm drill bit to align the frame. I passed the bit through the old brushplate and then through the frame. Once it passed without interference, I knew I had the alignment right. Then I removed the old brushplate, chucked up a 5mm bit and drilled the hole:    Edit, now with digital conversion and proper Swiss 3x1 lighting:  Edited by user 18 April 2016 13:56:42(UTC)
| Reason: Not specified |
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397. |
4 users liked this useful post by biedmatt
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 Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC) Posts: 8,226 Location: Montreal, QC
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The RET800/3014 already had Swiss lighting. It was designed to have 3 white in front and one white at the rear. When reversing, there was a neutral position (all lights on) between forward and reversing position, which could be used when the locomotive was not moving, e.g. in a Station.
When working on my 3014, I have not needed to remove the top light. All that was required as to remove the screws on the lok faces so that the bulbs would be a little protruding and to remove the snow plough at the bottom, without which, the shell can not be removed. The little screws on the snow plough are very small and can easily be misplaced. I usually place them all in a little tray so that they are not rolling around on the workbench.
Regards
Mike C
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Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,343 Location: Southwest Ohio
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Originally Posted by: mike c  The RET800/3014 already had Swiss lighting. It was designed to have 3 white in front and one white at the rear. When reversing, there was a neutral position (all lights on) between forward and reversing position, which could be used when the locomotive was not moving, e.g. in a Station.
Regards
Mike C My 3014 (two actually) did not. I had to use my Dremel tool and with a cutoff wheel separate the two lower lamps. The original lamp contacts had but one wire, now there are two. Note nickel-silver bar tying the two lower lamps together:  Edited by user 23 April 2016 17:02:39(UTC)
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Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397. |
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Joined: 19/08/2009(UTC) Posts: 199 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
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Thanks to all who replied to my posting-- you guys provided me w/ a lot of good information and tips.
I very carefully loosened the tiny screws that hold the top housing for the top lights, but I didn't remove the housing or lights---I just loosened the screws about 1/2 turn to determine how tight they were. They were pretty snug, but not what I would call tight --they should come out easily if I decide to remove them prior to removing the casing. I used the largest blade screwdriver in the little Marklin tool kit, and it filled the slot on that tiny screw completely.
Thanks,
Chas
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Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,343 Location: Southwest Ohio
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Now one with an SB-Modellbau motor:   |
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397. |
1 user liked this useful post by biedmatt
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