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Offline ixldoc  
#1 Posted : 28 March 2016 08:44:40(UTC)

Joined: 18/11/2015(UTC)
Posts: 219
Location: Brisbane,Australia
A while ago I was given an ICE train as a gift. It had been bought on eBay and arrived in an ICE box 3370. The train was different and I suspect it was from a starter set and had an added coach. Anyway it looked the part and ran well apart from mysteriously stopping every so often and would only start again after the controller was returned to zero then turned up again. (I have a Delta Cargosprinter which does the same every so often???)
The carriages were unlit and there was no red reversing light in the driven end when running in reverse. F0 controlled the lights, F2 the horn and F3 the station announcement. No F1.
ICE 1.jpgICE 2.jpg
These shots are after I added lighting.
I found it awkward to remove the train from the track so I wired it up with a small plug and socket at the centre of the train which meant it could be separated there and handled as two pieces of two.
ICE 3.jpgICE 4.jpg
These pics show the plug and socket and the small board inside the wagon for lighting.
ICE 5.jpgICE 6.jpg
These pics show the connection between the two carriages of each half train. To separate them just pull the cars apart then unsolder one wire from the small connector. The legs of the connector pierce the carriage end and solder to the small piece of Vero board inside.
ICE 7.jpg
The carriages were each given a track power connector and the wire from the rear slider carried right through to the front slider, so each carriage had both track and stud power available.
ICE 8.jpg
ICE 9.jpgICE 10.jpgICE 11.jpg
The rear carriage with driving cab was a little different and I originally mounted a camera in it but it performed poorly so I converted it to another use. I installed an ESU decoder, visible under the board, and a red/white changeover LED ( common anode). The decoder was given the same address as the Marklin decoder and so the ESU F0 controlled the rear LED and this changed colour with direction.F1 was the only function available for the ESU decoder as the Marklin unit utilised F2 and F3. So far so good.
I then realised there was no red tail light in the driven end for reverse running . I searched the board for a connection that went low on reverse but couldn't find one. I then thought of using the motor power (12 volts DC on the brushes) and wired a resistor to a red LED piggy backed over a white LED, making sure the polarity was correct when the train ran in reverse.
ICE 12.jpgICE 13.jpg
The end result was satisfying and although there is no red light when the train is stationary, it lights on the first increment of my Ecos. I suspect because it is PWM DC and also it starts at a small voltage set in the decoder CV2 ?
The rear carriage relay for the camera was retained but simply changes over with F1 from normal interior lighting to disco lighting.
A short video ( a bit messy):
thanks 8 users liked this useful post by ixldoc
Offline Minok  
#2 Posted : 04 April 2016 21:30:59(UTC)

United States   
Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,229
Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
Disco lighting.. ok. I was wondering what those "in the walking aisles" LEDs were for given the roof lighting already. Is this some strange rolling lab to see which Preisers that cannot get out of the seats, have epilepsy triggered by strobe lights? ;-)

I'd love to read/see more about how you had the camera wired up, what the relay was/did, and how the video came off of the camera. I'm thinking way ahead to adding a relay to provide power from the locomotives via conducting coupler via a relay, as well as building a dedicated small 'camera car' that can be pushed by any loco for filming purposes. The Hero 2 I have is too big to fit on an H0 track or through the tunnels.
Toys of tin and wood rule!
My Layout Thread on marklin-users.net: InterCity 1-3-4
My YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/Minok1217/
Offline ixldoc  
#3 Posted : 05 April 2016 08:39:27(UTC)

Joined: 18/11/2015(UTC)
Posts: 219
Location: Brisbane,Australia
Hi Minok,
I have posted a few photos below which show the original plan I had to mount the camera in my ICE ( of disco fame).
The camera transmits composite video via 2.4G and is received by a small 4 channel receiver. This has AV composite out and I display this on a 10 inch screen ( small portable LCD TV which has AV inputs).
I got it all together but I couldn't get the camera forward far enough because of the sloped windscreen of the ICE. The view forward was always marred by the cabin and windscreen surrounds. Eventually it annoyed me enough to remove it and install the disco lighting. The small relay was retained and is pulled in via f2. It has the normal interior lighting on one contact which switches to disco when the relay is energised.
ICE 14.jpgICE 16.jpgICE 17.jpg

The camera was powered from track power to a bridge rectifier thence to a miniature switch mode power supply adjusted to 4 volts. This was supplied to the camera via the relay. The downside is, of course, dirty track and a break in pickup will allow the relay to drop out and then you get the dreaded blue screen until the relay re-energises and the transmitter and receiver get their act together. This is why my latest camera mounting was in a Br111 and powered by Li-Po battery to be independent of track power. I used a capacitor across the coil of the relay to hold it on for about 2 seconds if track power was interrupted. This worked but occasionally the relay would not drop out! Clearly some leakage current was getting through to the aux contact ( a member may know what is supposed to happen when a function is turned off. I think it floats and this may be the problem somehow)). I just today replaced the relay and capacitor setup in the Br111 with a small latching relay and I use f1 and f2 to change the latch. This means if the camera is on, it remains on even if the track power is turned off completely! I will update the Br111 post with a new photo.

ICE 15.jpg
This photo shows the decoder on the left and the voltage regulator on the right tucked under the Vero board. When I converted to disco lighting I removed the regulator and used the decoder power to supply the LEDs.

Thanks for the interest and I am happy to discuss further.

thanks 1 user liked this useful post by ixldoc
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