Minok, a slower and more patiently approach is needed by finding out why the coupling is not engaging.

John

I'm not a great fan of the newer type of Telex coupler. Their only advantage as far as I can see is that they fit on a NEM coupler pocket, but otherwise the earlier types of Telex work much more reliably and across different coupler types.

I have a couple of locos where the Telex only works well on one end. I'm not going to go out of my way to try and get it working, as I prefer to use uncoupling ramps anyway,

I find sometimes these stick as well. Sometimes if you hold the locomotive upside down and gently shake it this will cause them to unstick. You guy will hate this, but the other thing I find works is to give the coupler a light flick with your finger, not too much, just to jar it a bit and loosen it up.

-Brandon

I'll try that too. I'd expect that the coupler pins were clean, as the Lok was in the factory box for almost its entire existence, I assume (which assumes the retailer didn't have it out on a display for any time, and indeed had it in the plastic shell, in the box as I got it).

Those boxes, have their own problem as I seem to have a knack for damaging couplers as they don't aligns straight all the time, and folding up the end-cap sometimes impacts the coupler ends.

So I am learning new things in leaps and bounds. It also shows that reading up alone doesn't always help. So it appears that my new loco has a new (3rd) type of telex couplers. Upon closer observation I saw that the telex couplers didn't behave like the well documented "pin moving up and down" types at all.

This telex coupler has a front pin that when the coupler is "locked" stays vertical and thus captures and holds the wagon coupler. However when in "disengage / decouple" state, that pin will pivot out from the loco plowing the wagon coupler to pull outward and out over the pin. From the sounds of the coupler system it may be the electromagnet holds the pin fixed and when turned off the pin freely pivots loosely.

The same mechanism on electrically release door striker plates to remotely unlock doors except I suspect here the power application holds it locked.

So here is another video but with the telex first unlocked and then locking it.

YouTube Video: telex style 3

So the earlier video showing the coupling just not happening was the result of the telex coupler being in the disengaged setting. I managed to interpret why the Mobile Station 2 symbols mean and ensure I was using the button for the correct end of the loco.

So in my case no need to repair the couplers but just learning how they work - which really was non obvious and maybe complicated be the fact I had read a lot about the way the older style telex worked (which I assumed was still how things worked).

It is still true that all of the cars that come with Relex couplers will need to see them replaced with short couplers (kurzkupplung). As the Relex couplers if they did lock down would not reliably hold.

YouTube Video: new telex with Märklin Relex

YouTube Video: new telex with roco Relex-like

Edited by user 02 March 2016 05:45:17(UTC)  | Reason: Fixed typos and terminology (stupid phone autocorrect & my mistakes)

Many different names used in this thread - and probably not all with the correct meaning.
"Shirt coupler" is a typo. "Reflux coupler" also.
"Reflex coupler" means "Relex coupler" and this is a Märklin "patent". Roco do not make "Relex coupler", they just have loop and hook couplers.
AFAIK you can also call those "loop and hook couplers" the "NEM couplers" (NEM 360) as they allow mixing all brands.

Most short couplers with NEM pockets are no "NEM couiplers" as they are compatible with their own kind only. The Märklin short coupler has limited compatibility with NEM couplers, but may need manual help to engage or separate. Roco Universal Coupler might engage, but may release in curves.


Those new Telex couplers are made for use with the Märklin short coupler and will also work with the Roco Universal Coupler.
NEM couplers will easily separate as the loop is too high. Bending the loop down will lead to problems when trying to engage the coupler to other NEM couplers.

Avoid mixing old and new couplers in long trains, avoid mixing old and new couplers for remotely controlled shunting operations.

I fixed the post as (I should stop using my phone to post on the forum as its not very mobile friendly and iOS auto-correct is a pain more often than not on technical jargon).
In my defense, others/professionals also called it 'reflex': http://www.gaugemaster.c...details.asp?code=MN72060


Now I just have to master not mangling the couplers whenever I put locos or cars back into the boxes and push in the end-caps

Can you tell me what Märklin part number your NEM couplers are, which you put in place of the relex couplers?

If you're switching the style coupler that is fitted on eBay were the 44xx type cars, then the coupler I went with is packaged as 7205