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Offline marklin61  
#1 Posted : 30 January 2016 23:28:11(UTC)
marklin61


Joined: 05/01/2007(UTC)
Posts: 83
Location: Tuki Tuki Valley
Hi all, I have found this tread very informative. So firstly thank you for posting some interesting information on train controlling software. I am about to start a new layout which will measure 10m x 6.5m. After reading quite a lot on computer control software I have decided to go down this path to control my layout. I have just installed the latest windigipet (2015 version) and now trying to understand how I should design the layout with contact sensors.
My first question is around braking distances and placement of sensors within a block. I plan to have block lengths of around 5-6 metres and have allocated around 54cm (3x 2200k tracks) as the braking distance at the end of each block.
At this stage I have a sensor at the beginning of each block and another just before the braking section . Is this the acceptable practice and location to place sensors? And is a length of 54cm a acceptable breaking distance or should I increase this?
My second question is can I mix braking distances using the same loco at one block and increase the breaking at another.ie at a shadow station under the layout verses a train approaching a station. I am assuming whatever I plan I must have a sensor just prior to any breaking instruction ? Is this correct.?
I also have a staging yard complete with turn table and engine shed. As for placement of sensors along these sections is it advisable to place sensors on each track or is this over kill. ?
I'm just trying to get my head around where sensors are needed, as it is far easier to install them at the beginning of constructing a layout than trying to add them later....especially in those areas under the layout that can be hard to reach..!!!
Many thanks Steve
Steve...............

Life with Pinot Noir, Chocolate and Marklin trains..........
Offline xxup  
#2 Posted : 31 January 2016 00:22:00(UTC)
xxup

Australia   
Joined: 15/03/2003(UTC)
Posts: 9,162
Location: Australia
I have used Windigipet (WDP) since version 8, which was around 15 years ago.

It is a big complex beast and WDP 2015 can do everything you asked.

BUT

I really suggest that you start small and understand how the easy parts work before you start on the hard bits. This means a small test layout before you dig up your existing layout.

My blocks comprise a minimum of two contact tracks, but three or more gives you greater control. So there is one contact with the signal then the braking contact and then the stop contact at the next signal. Do this for all the stops in a loop (for example) and you can pretty much get started straight away with two trains on a three block test loop.

Having just said that WDP lets you get away with two by using virtual contacts. To use this feature you need to do three things:
1. Calibrate all of your locos using a fixed length layout. (sets it to Km/hr mode and allows precise stopping)
2. Measure the distance between contacts (there is a specific process for this)
3. Set intelligent something or other (layout is downstairs and I can't remember that name)

The 2015 English manual is not ready yet, so download the 2012 manual and the supplements. All the important stuff about calibration and the intelligent something or other is in there.
http://www.windigipet.de/foren/index.php?action=downloadWDP;sa=dl;id=manual_2012_e
http://www.windigipet.de/files/update_info_12_2_english.pdf

I also recommend joining the WDP forum at http://www.windigipet.de/foren/index.php . It is really useful when you get into the hard stuff.

I have to go out for a brunch, but I will be back in a few hours for questions. A couple of other members in the forum also use WDP so you will find plenty of help here.
Adrian
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Offline PeFu  
#3 Posted : 31 January 2016 16:48:20(UTC)
PeFu

Sweden   
Joined: 30/08/2002(UTC)
Posts: 896
Originally Posted by: marklin61 Go to Quoted Post
And is a length of 54cm a acceptable breaking distance or should I increase this?


I would suggest a longer brake distance. In my example here...

https://www.marklin-user...SmartHand-Mobile-control

...the distance between "brake" (at the "red loco") and "stop" is approx. 120 cm, and the top speed is pretty low...

Cool Peter
Inspired by Swiss railways SBB and BLS | C and K track | CS2 | TrainController Gold V9
Youtube Channel for the Andreasburg-Mattiasberg layout
Offline marklin61  
#4 Posted : 01 February 2016 03:04:11(UTC)
marklin61


Joined: 05/01/2007(UTC)
Posts: 83
Location: Tuki Tuki Valley
Thanks Guys,
Looks lot I will need to experiment a bit more. Just downloaded a 700 odd page manual an will need to wade my way through it.!!. Adrian you are not wrong this thing can just about do anything...except asking the wife to allow me to read into the small hours of the night.!
No doubt this will throw up even more questions so Adrian I might just PM you given your experience with the software, (if that is OK..?) I don't want to bombard the forum with my lack of understanding around Windigipet software.
I think increasing my braking distances is going to look more realistic so already some modifications are going to be needed. Watching Peters YouTube clip has confirm my suspicion .Better now than later.!

Steve...............

Life with Pinot Noir, Chocolate and Marklin trains..........
Offline xxup  
#5 Posted : 01 February 2016 03:29:46(UTC)
xxup

Australia   
Joined: 15/03/2003(UTC)
Posts: 9,162
Location: Australia
PMs are fine, but there may also be an opportunity for someone else to learn something about WDP if you post your questions here. There are no silly questions on this forum. Smile
Adrian
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Offline Danlake  
#6 Posted : 01 February 2016 05:28:04(UTC)
Danlake

New Zealand   
Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,546
Hi Steve,

For HO scale models i would not go less than 60 cm for a pro typical breaking distance.

I am using Traincontroller from Railroad & Co and not too familiar with Win-digipet.

However before starting the layout you want to find out in the manual if you can work with shifted markers. If that is the case you would have more flexibility to determine where you want the train to start breaking and where it should stop. In that case it's not critical where you actually place the contact tracks.

A shifted marker is simply but a delay (e.g. 30 cm) after having triggered the contact you want the breaking to start.

In general a normal size block would have an entry and exit contact track. Larger sections I would also put one in the middle. If you are isolating one of the outer rails for your contact tracsk I would avoid to isolate the whole block as you would the loose some of the benefits of having 3 rail tracks.

See my layout "Greenwood Forest" where I have put diagrams up to show people how you can divide the layout up when using PC software.

Have fun - computer control is so much fun and gives you another aspect of the hobby!

Brgds Lasse
Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives.
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