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Offline Rocca  
#1 Posted : 10 March 2014 10:19:10(UTC)
Rocca

Italy   
Joined: 28/01/2004(UTC)
Posts: 615
Dear Friends,

I need your help for the Märklin turntable, 7186 which doesn't work any more. In recent days began to squeak and yesterday morning it was also apparently locked: sometimes pressing the power supply lever is operating, but the engine does not turn on. I opened the housing so as you can see from the photo that I enclose. I put a few drops of oil in the piston of the engine, the gear wheels that seen on the right and also the one on the left that leads to the trsmissione shaft that moves the platform. Chirp has not declined much, and then, in the first place, I ask which other points I have to put oil. Secondly, when the engine is in one way or another crashes, I just want to help with a finger on the right sprocket to see the mechanism restarting. Is there anything I can do from here?
Thanks for the help, as always.

Best regards and good start to the week
Stefano Rocca


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Offline jvuye  
#2 Posted : 10 March 2014 11:23:10(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,881
Location: South Western France
Hello Stefano

With this type of mechanisms, use light oil on all the bearings (1 on each side of the motor, the first gear wheel and two on each of the transmission shafts)
For the two worm gears and their pinions, I use grease, wich tends to stay longer.

Sometimes before lubricating it is good to first clean the various bearing and gears with a couple of drops of lighter fluid and a used toothbrush, then re-lube the all thing.

This turntable was **never** quiet...but if you supply it with a DC power supply (e.g. an old Fleischmann controller) it improves significantly, at least on mine Wink )

Hope this helps
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by jvuye
Offline Renato  
#3 Posted : 10 March 2014 18:29:56(UTC)
Renato

Italy   
Joined: 19/03/2004(UTC)
Posts: 976
Location: Gorizia, Italy
Hi Jacques,

Powering the turntable with DC current could cause overheating of the motor, so it should be necessary to check the current absorption in DC vs AC and to not increase the current measured during AC operation.

Cheers

Renato
Offline Rocca  
#4 Posted : 10 March 2014 18:54:01(UTC)
Rocca

Italy   
Joined: 28/01/2004(UTC)
Posts: 615

Dear Jacques,

Thank you for your advices. What do you mean exactly when you speak about the 2 sides of the motor? I have put some oil only in the pistons between the 2 motor brushes. Which is the other "side" of the motor. It doesn't look like an usual one in our engines...Crying Crying Mad Mad Mad

Best regards and have a lovely evening

Stefano Rocca

Originally Posted by: jvuye Go to Quoted Post
Hello Stefano

With this type of mechanisms, use light oil on all the bearings (1 on each side of the motor, the first gear wheel and two on each of the transmission shafts)
.......

Hope this helps


Offline kbvrod  
#5 Posted : 10 March 2014 20:07:28(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Hi Stefano,all,
Look at your first photo.There are two wires to the motor.Plus/negative/forward/reverse. Can you show us where you applied the oil and what kind?A wee bit O grease on the gears will also help.

Dr D
Offline biedmatt  
#6 Posted : 10 March 2014 20:37:01(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Does the motor try to run? Can you hear it hum under power?

Reach into the motor with a small screwdriver. Can you spin the motor armature with the screwdriver?

Does it run, but the clutch slip? The clutch is on the right side of the shaft mounted horizontally across the top. Note left/right is as seen in your picture. The clutch is inside the gear on the horizontal shaft on the right. That is why the gear has such a large hub.

If all these check out, remove the shaft with the clutch by removing the two screws on the left side of your picture. Pay close attention to how it goes back together. This will isolate the motor from the turntable.

Now see if the motor runs. If it does, is the drive to the perimeter gear around the turntable pit binding? You should be able to spin the shaft on the left mounted vertical with a screwdriver on the teeth of the gear.

Essentially start at the motor and work to the perimeter drive trying to isolate the cause.

Also, at the top of your motor is an inductor (one of two) it has the clear blue shrink insulation on it. Just above and right per your picture is a rectangular opening. I bet that leads to one of those sponges used to hold oil for the armature shaft opposite the motor shield. It's been a long time since I've looked inside my turntable.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
Offline Rocca  
#7 Posted : 11 March 2014 09:47:12(UTC)
Rocca

Italy   
Joined: 28/01/2004(UTC)
Posts: 615
Dear Dr.D,

I have applied only the traditional Märklin Oil I use for the Locos too.
I have put some oil in front of the motor between the 2 brushes as it happens to do with the Locos. Then if you go back to the left, in this picture, strating from the motor, I have put oil on the first gear who goes inside the mechanism (near to the red wire in the pic) and then in the gear which connects the mechanism with the trasmission tree to the platform, just near to the white wire.

Thanks so much
Best regards

Stefano

Originally Posted by: kbvrod Go to Quoted Post
Hi Stefano,all,
Look at your first photo.There are two wires to the motor.Plus/negative/forward/reverse. Can you show us where you applied the oil and what kind?A wee bit O grease on the gears will also help.

Dr D


thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Rocca
Offline Rocca  
#8 Posted : 11 March 2014 10:06:45(UTC)
Rocca

Italy   
Joined: 28/01/2004(UTC)
Posts: 615
Dear Biedmatt, thank you so much for your post!

Yesss, it hums under power always apart sometimes, but if I move the gear it restarts quite easily, even when it doesn't hum at the first time.

Yess, I can spin the motor with the screw and it stops running in each direction when the little star which is on tree of transmission (on the left side in my picture) clashes with the little tooth at the top of the black bar you can see in front of the white wire.

I'll go on removing the shaft later, when I'll come back hom from work!

Best regards

Stefano Rocca

Originally Posted by: biedmatt Go to Quoted Post
Does the motor try to run? Can you hear it hum under power?

Reach into the motor with a small screwdriver. Can you spin the motor armature with the screwdriver?

Does it run, but the clutch slip? The clutch is on the right side of the shaft mounted horizontally across the top. Note left/right is as seen in your picture. The clutch is inside the gear on the horizontal shaft on the right. That is why the gear has such a large hub.

If all these check out, remove the shaft with the clutch by removing the two screws on the left side of your picture. Pay close attention to how it goes back together. This will isolate the motor from the turntable.

Now see if the motor runs. If it does, is the drive to the perimeter gear around the turntable pit binding? You should be able to spin the shaft on the left mounted vertical with a screwdriver on the teeth of the gear.

Essentially start at the motor and work to the perimeter drive trying to isolate the cause.

Also, at the top of your motor is an inductor (one of two) it has the clear blue shrink insulation on it. Just above and right per your picture is a rectangular opening. I bet that leads to one of those sponges used to hold oil for the armature shaft opposite the motor shield. It's been a long time since I've looked inside my turntable.


Offline biedmatt  
#9 Posted : 11 March 2014 11:24:12(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
So you just need to coax the motor along at first and then it will run? Sounds like lubrication. I would remove the motor shield and pull the armature out. Then clean both ends of the armature shaft and the hole in the motor housing casting where the back side of the armature shaft goes. A pipe cleaner soaked in paint thinner works well. Then lub with Marklin oil and reassemble.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
Offline Rocca  
#10 Posted : 11 March 2014 16:02:01(UTC)
Rocca

Italy   
Joined: 28/01/2004(UTC)
Posts: 615

Dear Biedmatt,

Yess, that is the matter: if I coax the motor along at first, then it will run. I'll go on with the librication, as you suggest.

Thanks a lot for the advices
Best reagrds

Stefano

Originally Posted by: biedmatt Go to Quoted Post
So you just need to coax the motor along at first and then it will run? Sounds like lubrication. I would remove the motor shield and pull the armature out. Then clean both ends of the armature shaft and the hole in the motor housing casting where the back side of the armature shaft goes. A pipe cleaner soaked in paint thinner works well. Then lub with Marklin oil and reassemble.


Offline Rocca  
#11 Posted : 11 March 2014 17:41:19(UTC)
Rocca

Italy   
Joined: 28/01/2004(UTC)
Posts: 615
Dear Biedmatt,

I have just unsrewed the 3 scewes (2 of them you can look in the picture and the other one is on the back and connects the level to the bar whick stops the motor. At this moment anyway I don't now how to get the motor afloat. And I'll find very difficul to srew back the screw to the level: any suggestion for doing that...?!?

have a lovely evening
Stefano Rocca
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