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Offline yuewu9188  
#1 Posted : 22 January 2014 15:00:32(UTC)
yuewu9188

China   
Joined: 22/01/2014(UTC)
Posts: 19
Location: Xi'an
Hi everyone,

I am new to marklin system and I just registered here a moment ago. I live in China and we don't have any Marklin or AC system community here. So I am here looking for help, sorry for my bad English.

I am playing C track system with a Mobile Station 2. The problem I have right now is the disconnected(no electricity pass through) points on the track.

I built a simple loop layout of 18 straight tracks and 12 curve tracks, plus two side lines each with 8 straight tracks and 2 digital turnouts. The locomotive runs fine on the track except for 4 points (2 are the straight tracks connect to the curve tracks and 2 are the curve tracks). I tried to replace the problem tracks but only fixed one point, the other three remains problem.

When the locomotive reaches the problem points, it suddenly stops and the lights were off, looks like no electricity on those points. I tried to push the locomotive a little and it reconnected after pass through those points.


I tried to searching on the internet and solutions varies. I tried to clean the problem points with dry towels but it didn't work. I saw on other posts said I may need to buy more feeder tracks and connect them every ten tracks. And also mentioned a higher voltage power supply (36v or 60v).

The power supply I bought was along with the mobile station 2, on ebay from here:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MARKLIN-60653-Mobile-Station-mit-Anschlussbox-60113-Netzteil-66361-NEU-/290619488916?pt=DE_Modellbau_Modelleisenbahnen&hash=item43aa457a94

I want to hear some solutions or suggestions from you guys before purchasing anything more. Since there are no Marklin dealer in China so I have to buy everything from Germany, shipping costs are really expensive.....

And by the way, my English is not so good and it is really difficult for me to learn how the digital layout works. I just spent more than 8 hours to figure out how to put together 4 digital turnouts and add them to the controller. And I have no idea how to use multiple power sources on one layout. I would really appreciate your help, hopefully as detailed as possible, probably in simple words. :)

Thanks again to you all!

Wu

Edited by user 22 January 2014 18:47:45(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Offline RayF  
#2 Posted : 22 January 2014 15:29:25(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,840
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Hello, Wu,

This problem is typical of track that has not been used for a while. The tracks that lose power need to be cleaned with a soft cloth soaked in some kind of solvent, like lighter fluid, or methylated spirit. If the trains still stop on those tracks then try rubbing the centre track contacts with a rubber eraser, or very fine sandpaper. Cleaning with a dry paper towel will not be enough to clean the film of dirt that is preventing your locomotive from getting good contact with the track.

Let us know if this works for you
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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Offline BrandonVA  
#3 Posted : 22 January 2014 15:52:19(UTC)
BrandonVA

United States   
Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,533
Location: VA
Wu,

You may also try to use your locomotive to clean the studs in the middle of the track: Drive the locomotive at a fast enough speed it will pass the point, let it go over a few times. The slider on the locomotive may wear off some of the corrosion by friction.

Ray also has very good suggestions.

-Brandon
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Offline river6109  
#4 Posted : 22 January 2014 15:56:04(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,728
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Wu,

welcome to the forum,
.
John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline Ian555  
#5 Posted : 22 January 2014 16:16:38(UTC)
Ian555

Scotland   
Joined: 04/06/2009(UTC)
Posts: 20,240
Location: Scotland
Hello Wu,

Welcome to the forum. ThumpUp

Ian.

Offline yuewu9188  
#6 Posted : 22 January 2014 18:30:46(UTC)
yuewu9188

China   
Joined: 22/01/2014(UTC)
Posts: 19
Location: Xi'an
Originally Posted by: RayF Go to Quoted Post
Hello, Wu,

This problem is typical of track that has not been used for a while. The tracks that lose power need to be cleaned with a soft cloth soaked in some kind of solvent, like lighter fluid, or methylated spirit. If the trains still stop on those tracks then try rubbing the centre track contacts with a rubber eraser, or very fine sandpaper. Cleaning with a dry paper towel will not be enough to clean the film of dirt that is preventing your locomotive from getting good contact with the track.

Let us know if this works for you


Hi Ray,

Thanks a lot for the solutions! I tried to rob the points with a sandpaper, and it worked on all four points! Thank you very much, I really appreciate it! BigGrin
Offline Danlake  
#7 Posted : 22 January 2014 18:33:06(UTC)
Danlake

New Zealand   
Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,571
Hello Wu,

Welcome to the forumThumpUp

By the way your english is fineCool

Brgds - Lasse
Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives.
Offline yuewu9188  
#8 Posted : 22 January 2014 18:33:53(UTC)
yuewu9188

China   
Joined: 22/01/2014(UTC)
Posts: 19
Location: Xi'an
Originally Posted by: BrandonVA Go to Quoted Post
Wu,

You may also try to use your locomotive to clean the studs in the middle of the track: Drive the locomotive at a fast enough speed it will pass the point, let it go over a few times. The slider on the locomotive may wear off some of the corrosion by friction.

Ray also has very good suggestions.

-Brandon


Hi Brandon,

Thank you for your idea as well, right now I keep my locomotive running for an hour to clean the studs. Really appreciate your help! :)

Wu
Offline yuewu9188  
#9 Posted : 22 January 2014 18:36:46(UTC)
yuewu9188

China   
Joined: 22/01/2014(UTC)
Posts: 19
Location: Xi'an
And thank you all for your welcoming!

You are all very friendly and welcoming and I will try to improve my English and visit the forum more often in the future. :)

Best wishes,

Wu
Offline jeehring  
#10 Posted : 22 January 2014 19:08:20(UTC)
jeehring


Joined: 25/09/2003(UTC)
Posts: 2,786
Location: ,
PLEASE, don't use sand paper on rails. Never use it on rails.

Use sand paper on central studs only. And before using it try with a soft clothe with the top of yoyr finger, if it doesn't work, then, use the sand paper.

Welcome !

Edited by user 23 January 2014 20:49:04(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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Offline kbvrod  
#11 Posted : 22 January 2014 19:10:48(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Originally Posted by: jeehring Go to Quoted Post
PLEASE, don't use sand paper on rails. Never use it on rails.

Use sand paper on central studs only. And before using it try with a soft clothe with the top of yoyr finger, if it don't work, then, use the sand paper.

Welcome !



Welcome Wu!!!

Never use sandpaper on the rails OR the center rail!!!!Smile

Dr D
Offline Renato  
#12 Posted : 22 January 2014 23:03:52(UTC)
Renato

Italy   
Joined: 19/03/2004(UTC)
Posts: 976
Location: Gorizia, Italy
Hi Wu,

Welcome to the forum from me too.

And please always follow the instructions given by our wise members (jeehring, kbvrod and others).

Cheers

Renato
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Offline aswap5  
#13 Posted : 23 January 2014 03:30:28(UTC)
aswap5

India   
Joined: 14/10/2013(UTC)
Posts: 32
Wu,

Welcome. I am new here too (well, fairly) and it's a great place.

Ashok
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Offline mike c  
#14 Posted : 23 January 2014 05:26:43(UTC)
mike c

Canada   
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC)
Posts: 7,899
Location: Montreal, QC
Hello Wu,

there is an authorized Maerklin agent in Hong Kong.

http://www.modelrailway.com.hk/

I understand his prices are rather high (according to foreigners), but you can compare his prices to what you have paid to ship from Germany.
Do you order from shops or have you used the Maerklin online shop?

Regards

Mike C
Offline yuewu9188  
#15 Posted : 23 January 2014 10:08:38(UTC)
yuewu9188

China   
Joined: 22/01/2014(UTC)
Posts: 19
Location: Xi'an
Originally Posted by: jeehring Go to Quoted Post
PLEASE, don't use sand paper on rails. Never use it on rails.

Use sand paper on central studs only. And before using it try with a soft clothe with the top of yoyr finger, if it don't work, then, use the sand paper.

Welcome !


Thanks for your suggestion! I will keep it in mind, next time try sandpaper last. :)

Wu

Offline yuewu9188  
#16 Posted : 23 January 2014 10:12:00(UTC)
yuewu9188

China   
Joined: 22/01/2014(UTC)
Posts: 19
Location: Xi'an
Originally Posted by: kbvrod Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: jeehring Go to Quoted Post
PLEASE, don't use sand paper on rails. Never use it on rails.

Use sand paper on central studs only. And before using it try with a soft clothe with the top of yoyr finger, if it don't work, then, use the sand paper.

Welcome !



Welcome Wu!!!

Never use sandpaper on the rails OR the center rail!!!!Smile

Dr D


Thanks for the warning! :) By the way, I don't really understand the word "soft clothe", is it some kind of liquid cleanser I can buy on the market?

Thanks again,

Wu
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Offline yuewu9188  
#17 Posted : 23 January 2014 10:21:28(UTC)
yuewu9188

China   
Joined: 22/01/2014(UTC)
Posts: 19
Location: Xi'an
Originally Posted by: mike c Go to Quoted Post
Hello Wu,

there is an authorized Maerklin agent in Hong Kong.

http://www.modelrailway.com.hk/

I understand his prices are rather high (according to foreigners), but you can compare his prices to what you have paid to ship from Germany.
Do you order from shops or have you used the Maerklin online shop?

Regards

Mike C


Hi Mike,

Thanks for the information. I usually buy from ebay.de, have noticed the online shop and will try it in the future.

I plan to build a medium size digital layout this summer, and it takes too much time to buy everything online. I am thinking to visit the Märklin Museum in Göppingen and purchase the accessories all at once.

Best regards,

Wu
Offline DamonKelly  
#18 Posted : 23 January 2014 13:02:05(UTC)
DamonKelly

Australia   
Joined: 26/03/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,421
Location: Brisbane, QLD
Hi Wu,

Welcome to the forum!

The advice about cleaning C-track is excellent:
  • only use sandpaper on the center studs, and only if the are very dirty
  • running your locomotives frequently will clean the tracks very well
  • use a soft cloth (e.g. face washer, old T-shirt) soaked in solvent for the rails

I mostly buy from Lokshop in Germany. Their prices may not be the cheapest, but (for English speakers) the site is easy to navigate, they have good prices, and automatically remove the 19% German VAT. Check them out.

By the way, your English is very good -- don't worry about that!
Cheers,
Damon
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Offline river6109  
#19 Posted : 23 January 2014 13:43:41(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,728
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
I like to publicly thank Wu for his help by getting me started to download my videos in China with a very similar youtube website.

John

https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
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Offline Alsterstreek  
#20 Posted : 23 January 2014 16:26:04(UTC)
Alsterstreek

Germany   
Joined: 16/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 5,672
Location: Hybrid Home
Originally Posted by: yuewu9188 Go to Quoted Post
I saw on other posts said I may need to buy more feeder tracks and connect them every ten tracks. And also mentioned a higher voltage power supply (36v or 60v).

The power supply I bought was along with the mobile station 2, on ebay from here:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MARKLIN-60653-Mobile-Station-mit-Anschlussbox-60113-Netzteil-66361-NEU-/290619488916?pt=DE_Modellbau_Modelleisenbahnen&hash=item43aa457a94


Hi Wu,

The approach depends on whether you use analogue or digital controls and locos. As a mobile station user, you are part of the (modern) digital world, thus do not buy extra feeder tracks. What you could do is to connect any piece of track via extra feeder cables with the connection box ("Anschlussbox"). The rule of thumb says that there should be a connection every two meters of track. Again, in the digital world of Maerklin, cables go to regular tracks, as the "Anschlussbox" replaces feeder track(s) needed in the analogue world. For the size of your layout the Mobile Station 2 plus power pack ("Netzteil") is powerful enough. Anyway, unlike in the analogue environment, in the digital realm the Ampere output to the track is key, not the power supply voltage input (A little bit simplified, but I do not want to confuse you to much at this stage).

By the way, with 20 meters of track and four locos, I did not follow any of the above for a long time, without any trouble. As long as you do not have lighted coaches, there should be no problem for you.

Take care - Ak ThumpUp
Offline Alsterstreek  
#21 Posted : 23 January 2014 16:32:04(UTC)
Alsterstreek

Germany   
Joined: 16/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 5,672
Location: Hybrid Home
Originally Posted by: yuewu9188 Go to Quoted Post
And I have no idea how to use multiple power sources on one layout.


Hello again Wu,

Well, keep this for later when your layout grows considerably. Then, you could either switch to a Central Station (easy but expensive) or employ a "homemade" booster to support the mobile station connection box (difficult but cheap). However, for the time being, you need none of this.

Greetings - Ak
Offline kbvrod  
#22 Posted : 23 January 2014 16:39:34(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Originally Posted by: DamonKelly Go to Quoted Post
Hi Wu,

Welcome to the forum!

The advice about cleaning C-track is excellent:
  • only use sandpaper on the center studs, and only if the are very dirty
  • running your locomotives frequently will clean the tracks very well
  • use a soft cloth (e.g. face washer, old T-shirt) soaked in solvent for the rails


By the way, your English is very good -- don't worry about that!


Hi all,

His English is better than mine!BigGrin
Damon,sanpaper would be a last resort!Unless Wu can find very,very sandpaper(used to finish auto body repair 1,200 grit) I would not,run the lok to clean the studs and then clean the slider!!
Good advice in the soft cloth T-shirt and solvent but what solvent is available to wu?

Dr D


Offline yuewu9188  
#23 Posted : 24 January 2014 11:22:51(UTC)
yuewu9188

China   
Joined: 22/01/2014(UTC)
Posts: 19
Location: Xi'an
Originally Posted by: DamonKelly Go to Quoted Post
Hi Wu,

Welcome to the forum!

The advice about cleaning C-track is excellent:
  • only use sandpaper on the center studs, and only if the are very dirty
  • running your locomotives frequently will clean the tracks very well
  • use a soft cloth (e.g. face washer, old T-shirt) soaked in solvent for the rails

I mostly buy from Lokshop in Germany. Their prices may not be the cheapest, but (for English speakers) the site is easy to navigate, they have good prices, and automatically remove the 19% German VAT. Check them out.

By the way, your English is very good -- don't worry about that!


Hi Damon,

Thanks for the summary, running locomotives to lean the studs is a really efficient way!

And thanks again for introduce the website, remove the 19% VAT is indeed very attractive. :)

Best regards,

Wu
Offline yuewu9188  
#24 Posted : 24 January 2014 11:37:18(UTC)
yuewu9188

China   
Joined: 22/01/2014(UTC)
Posts: 19
Location: Xi'an
Originally Posted by: Alsterstreek Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: yuewu9188 Go to Quoted Post
And I have no idea how to use multiple power sources on one layout.


Hello again Wu,

Well, keep this for later when your layout grows considerably. Then, you could either switch to a Central Station (easy but expensive) or employ a "homemade" booster to support the mobile station connection box (difficult but cheap). However, for the time being, you need none of this.

Greetings - Ak


Hi AK,

Thank you very much for your detail explain. I will keep this in mind. And I have noticed the Central Station, it is really expensive indeed...:(

I plan to build a 3.8m*4m L-shape layout this summer, consists about 250 tracks. I am a little confused about the power supply, you mentioned feeder cables and the connection box. Would you mind to explain to me a little bit more about how they work? Thanks a lot!

Best wishes,

Wu
Offline yuewu9188  
#25 Posted : 24 January 2014 11:42:11(UTC)
yuewu9188

China   
Joined: 22/01/2014(UTC)
Posts: 19
Location: Xi'an
Originally Posted by: kbvrod Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: DamonKelly Go to Quoted Post
Hi Wu,

Welcome to the forum!

The advice about cleaning C-track is excellent:
  • only use sandpaper on the center studs, and only if the are very dirty
  • running your locomotives frequently will clean the tracks very well
  • use a soft cloth (e.g. face washer, old T-shirt) soaked in solvent for the rails


By the way, your English is very good -- don't worry about that!


Hi all,

His English is better than mine!BigGrin
Damon,sanpaper would be a last resort!Unless Wu can find very,very sandpaper(used to finish auto body repair 1,200 grit) I would not,run the lok to clean the studs and then clean the slider!!
Good advice in the soft cloth T-shirt and solvent but what solvent is available to wu?

Dr D





Hi Dr D,

Thanks for the advice. I am not sure but directly translate gives the word "acetylacetone", this is what I can easily get in China.

Running locomotives to clean them is the most efficient way indeed! :) Thanks again~

Best wishes,

Wu



Offline Alsterstreek  
#26 Posted : 24 January 2014 12:38:50(UTC)
Alsterstreek

Germany   
Joined: 16/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 5,672
Location: Hybrid Home
Originally Posted by: yuewu9188 Go to Quoted Post

I am a little confused about the power supply, you mentioned feeder cables and the connection box. Would you mind to explain to me a little bit more about how they work? Thanks a lot!


Dear Wu,

You do have the Marklin Digital Connector Box for new Mobile Station H0-scale AC 3-Rail System - Marklin 60113. The red and brown feeder cables are going to the track. You need to "replicate" this several times - see attachments. The easiest way would be using Marklin feeder clips for the connection to the track

Cheers - Ak
Alsterstreek attached the following image(s):
cabling.png
M%C3%A4rklin-c-gleis.jpg
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Offline BrandonVA  
#27 Posted : 24 January 2014 14:45:33(UTC)
BrandonVA

United States   
Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,533
Location: VA
Originally Posted by: yuewu9188 Go to Quoted Post


Thanks for the advice. I am not sure but directly translate gives the word "acetylacetone", this is what I can easily get in China.

Running locomotives to clean them is the most efficient way indeed! :) Thanks again~

Best wishes,

Wu



Acetylacetone is a solvent, but not the only one. Semi-technical words are often difficult for translation software/websites.

I would recommend this: use isotropy alcohol (rubbing alcohol). If you have something really stubborn, you can try using a liquid lighter fluid (for cigarette lighters). Electrical parts cleaner works well too (possibly available at car parts stores). However, lighter fluids are all different, so if you find one, test it on a small section of track and let it sit a while to make sure it doesn't melt or eat the plastic before using it everywhere.

-Brandon
Offline yuewu9188  
#28 Posted : 24 January 2014 22:48:10(UTC)
yuewu9188

China   
Joined: 22/01/2014(UTC)
Posts: 19
Location: Xi'an
Originally Posted by: Alsterstreek Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: yuewu9188 Go to Quoted Post

I am a little confused about the power supply, you mentioned feeder cables and the connection box. Would you mind to explain to me a little bit more about how they work? Thanks a lot!


Dear Wu,

You do have the Marklin Digital Connector Box for new Mobile Station H0-scale AC 3-Rail System - Marklin 60113. The red and brown feeder cables are going to the track. You need to "replicate" this several times - see attachments. The easiest way would be using Marklin feeder clips for the connection to the track

Cheers - Ak


Hi AK,

Thanks a lot for explain it to me. I am not sure if I get it correctly, so I will only need one connector box and some additional feeder wires for the layout I am planning on? And I found the feeder wire 74042 and 74046 with overload protection, are they right items for me? By the way, I am also confused about how to connect many feeder wires to one connector box, do you have any instructions on that? Thanks again for the help!

Best,
Wu
my layout draft
Offline yuewu9188  
#29 Posted : 24 January 2014 22:54:52(UTC)
yuewu9188

China   
Joined: 22/01/2014(UTC)
Posts: 19
Location: Xi'an
Originally Posted by: BrandonVA Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: yuewu9188 Go to Quoted Post


Thanks for the advice. I am not sure but directly translate gives the word "acetylacetone", this is what I can easily get in China.

Running locomotives to clean them is the most efficient way indeed! :) Thanks again~

Best wishes,

Wu



Acetylacetone is a solvent, but not the only one. Semi-technical words are often difficult for translation software/websites.

I would recommend this: use isotropy alcohol (rubbing alcohol). If you have something really stubborn, you can try using a liquid lighter fluid (for cigarette lighters). Electrical parts cleaner works well too (possibly available at car parts stores). However, lighter fluids are all different, so if you find one, test it on a small section of track and let it sit a while to make sure it doesn't melt or eat the plastic before using it everywhere.

-Brandon


Hi Brandon,

Yes the translation may not be accurate for such words. Ligher fluid is more easy to find, thanks a lot! I will try it for dead points next time~

Best regards,
Wu
Offline PMPeter  
#30 Posted : 25 January 2014 01:25:22(UTC)
PMPeter

Canada   
Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 1,275
Location: Port Moody, BC
Hi Wu,

If your layout is larger and you need several feeder wires, the best thing is to connect the red and brown wires coming from your connection box to a larger sized "bus" cable having at least 2 conductors. That way you can run this larger capacity cable underneath your entire layout and drop down feeder cables from your track every 2-3 metres as recommended by Maerklin. You tie in these feeder cables to the bus with terminal strips, distribution blocks, or a variety of different connectors that you may have available. If you plan on running overhead catenary power from a separate source, or even analog, then I would make the bus cable 3 conductors since the brown will be common for both.

In my layout I am actually running 6 conductors throughout to give me complete flexibility for digital main, analog catenary and separate signal and lighting supply. Perhaps overkill but I have lots of flexibility.

Cheers
Peter
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Offline yuewu9188  
#31 Posted : 25 January 2014 23:01:51(UTC)
yuewu9188

China   
Joined: 22/01/2014(UTC)
Posts: 19
Location: Xi'an
Originally Posted by: PMPeter Go to Quoted Post
Hi Wu,

If your layout is larger and you need several feeder wires, the best thing is to connect the red and brown wires coming from your connection box to a larger sized "bus" cable having at least 2 conductors. That way you can run this larger capacity cable underneath your entire layout and drop down feeder cables from your track every 2-3 metres as recommended by Maerklin. You tie in these feeder cables to the bus with terminal strips, distribution blocks, or a variety of different connectors that you may have available. If you plan on running overhead catenary power from a separate source, or even analog, then I would make the bus cable 3 conductors since the brown will be common for both.

In my layout I am actually running 6 conductors throughout to give me complete flexibility for digital main, analog catenary and separate signal and lighting supply. Perhaps overkill but I have lots of flexibility.

Cheers
Peter


Hi Peter,

Thank you very much for your help! I think I have some idea about it now.

I found the distribution block is Marklin 72090, and feeder wire 74042. So I am thinking what should I do is to get some 74042 feeder wires and connect one end of each wire to the track(2 meter per wire) and another end to the distribution block 72090, then connect the 72090 to the bus cable (not sure what cable to use for this step) and finally connect the bus cable to the connection box (using the feeder wires come from the connection box), are these steps correct?

And I am having some difficulty find the Bus cable, would you mind to let me know the item number if it is available from Marklin? I found something like this but not sure, it looks kind of complicated:https://www.ldt-infocenter.com/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=en:dicostation

By the way, do you think it is necessary to get a Marklin 74046 overload protection feeder wire for the layout?

Thanks again for your help!

Best wishes,
Wu
Offline PMPeter  
#32 Posted : 26 January 2014 07:34:24(UTC)
PMPeter

Canada   
Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 1,275
Location: Port Moody, BC
Hi Wu,

For the bus cable I use standard Canadian house wire that I had left over from a home remodelling. In North American terms it has #14 AWG conductors which are similar to European size 2.5 mm2. It comes in 2c and 3c styles, so a standard 3c cable will handle the red and brown wires plus will have an additional wire available for either lighting or catenary.

I will take some photos tomorrow and post them so that you have a better visual of what I am talking about.

Cheers
Peter
Offline H0  
#33 Posted : 26 January 2014 09:06:12(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,267
Location: DE-NW
Hi, Wu,
Welcome to the forum!
Originally Posted by: yuewu9188 Go to Quoted Post
By the way, do you think it is necessary to get a Marklin 74046 overload protection feeder wire for the layout?
No, never! Must not be used for digital operation. It's for analogue operation only.

If you want to use the 72090 distribution blocks, then get the 74040 feeder sets (spade connectors on one end). The 74042 has spade connectors on both ends and can be used to distribute power from one piece of track to another piece of track. You can cut a 74042 in the middle and use it like two 74040.

I finally bought the spade connectors only (74995) and added the cables myself (with a small pair of pliers, no special tool needed).

BTW: no need to use the 72090 to distribute current. Instead of messing with those tiny Märklin plugs I'd solder or screw cables together.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
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Offline yuewu9188  
#34 Posted : 26 January 2014 12:05:10(UTC)
yuewu9188

China   
Joined: 22/01/2014(UTC)
Posts: 19
Location: Xi'an
Originally Posted by: PMPeter Go to Quoted Post
Hi Wu,

For the bus cable I use standard Canadian house wire that I had left over from a home remodelling. In North American terms it has #14 AWG conductors which are similar to European size 2.5 mm2. It comes in 2c and 3c styles, so a standard 3c cable will handle the red and brown wires plus will have an additional wire available for either lighting or catenary.

I will take some photos tomorrow and post them so that you have a better visual of what I am talking about.

Cheers
Peter


Hi Peter,

Thanks a lot, can't wait to see the pictures! :)

Best,
Wu
Offline yuewu9188  
#35 Posted : 26 January 2014 12:09:08(UTC)
yuewu9188

China   
Joined: 22/01/2014(UTC)
Posts: 19
Location: Xi'an
Originally Posted by: H0 Go to Quoted Post
Hi, Wu,
Welcome to the forum!
Originally Posted by: yuewu9188 Go to Quoted Post
By the way, do you think it is necessary to get a Marklin 74046 overload protection feeder wire for the layout?
No, never! Must not be used for digital operation. It's for analogue operation only.

If you want to use the 72090 distribution blocks, then get the 74040 feeder sets (spade connectors on one end). The 74042 has spade connectors on both ends and can be used to distribute power from one piece of track to another piece of track. You can cut a 74042 in the middle and use it like two 74040.

I finally bought the spade connectors only (74995) and added the cables myself (with a small pair of pliers, no special tool needed).

BTW: no need to use the 72090 to distribute current. Instead of messing with those tiny Märklin plugs I'd solder or screw cables together.


Hi Tom,

Thank you for let me know 72090 is not necessary. By the way, can I just get some 74042 wires and use them to connect tracks (track to track) 2 meters away to distribute power? I wonder if this way works. Thanks again! :)

Best,
Wu
Offline PMPeter  
#36 Posted : 27 January 2014 02:50:25(UTC)
PMPeter

Canada   
Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 1,275
Location: Port Moody, BC
Originally Posted by: yuewu9188 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: PMPeter Go to Quoted Post
Hi Wu,

For the bus cable I use standard Canadian house wire that I had left over from a home remodelling. In North American terms it has #14 AWG conductors which are similar to European size 2.5 mm2. It comes in 2c and 3c styles, so a standard 3c cable will handle the red and brown wires plus will have an additional wire available for either lighting or catenary.

I will take some photos tomorrow and post them so that you have a better visual of what I am talking about.

Cheers
Peter


Hi Peter,

Thanks a lot, can't wait to see the pictures! :)

Best,
Wu


As promised here are 3 photos. One showing the standard 14 awg house wiring type cable going into a standard box with six binding post connectors on the front that the 6 wires from the two cables connect to. Externally I then run #18 awg colour coded wire to Viessmann colour coded distribution blocks. Since these Viessmann blocks are isolated on each side from each other (marked - and +) I either add a jumper from one side to the other or as can be seen in the second photo I painted one side white so that I have my red power connections for the track on the red side and the white wire connections for the catenary on the other side.

The third photo shows an in progress box with some temporary connections and Maerklin distribution block.

UserPostedImage


Dist box and blocks

In progress with temporary connections

For me this was a simple solution since I had all the wire and cable left over from a home remodelling project, so the price was right.

Cheers
Peter

Edited by user 23 March 2015 19:29:14(UTC)  | Reason: Reloaded pictures

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Offline yuewu9188  
#37 Posted : 27 January 2014 11:43:48(UTC)
yuewu9188

China   
Joined: 22/01/2014(UTC)
Posts: 19
Location: Xi'an
Originally Posted by: PMPeter Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: yuewu9188 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: PMPeter Go to Quoted Post
Hi Wu,

For the bus cable I use standard Canadian house wire that I had left over from a home remodelling. In North American terms it has #14 AWG conductors which are similar to European size 2.5 mm2. It comes in 2c and 3c styles, so a standard 3c cable will handle the red and brown wires plus will have an additional wire available for either lighting or catenary.

I will take some photos tomorrow and post them so that you have a better visual of what I am talking about.

Cheers
Peter


Hi Peter,

Thanks a lot, can't wait to see the pictures! :)

Best,
Wu


As promised here are 3 photos. One showing the standard 14 awg house wiring type cable going into a standard box with six binding post connectors on the front that the 6 wires from the two cables connect to. Externally I then run #18 awg colour coded wire to Viessmann colour coded distribution blocks. Since these Viessmann blocks are isolated on each side from each other (marked - and +) I either add a jumper from one side to the other or as can be seen in the second photo I painted one side white so that I have my red power connections for the track on the red side and the white wire connections for the catenary on the other side.

The third photo shows an in progress box with some temporary connections and Maerklin distribution block.

Distribution box

Dist box and blocks

In progress with temporary connections

For me this was a simple solution since I had all the wire and cable left over from a home remodelling project, so the price was right.

Cheers
Peter


Hi Peter,

Thank you so much for the pictures! Now I guess I almost get it! :)

I am wondering, are the standard 14 awg house wiring type cables you used to go into the distribution box (yellow one) equivalent to the feeder wires comes from the Marklin connection box (60113)?

Also, as I can see, you used for different colour wires to distribute the power. You mentioned that red is for tracks and white is for catenary. What about black and yellow, what roles are they playing?

By the way, I really like the Viessmann blocks you used, I think they are better than the Marklin blocks.

Thanks again for your generous help!

Best wishes,
Wu
Offline PMPeter  
#38 Posted : 27 January 2014 17:10:37(UTC)
PMPeter

Canada   
Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 1,275
Location: Port Moody, BC
I use the Black for the Brown since it is the closest in colour and common for any of the power supplies, digital, lighting and analog. The yellow is the power feed for any of the lighting circuits, fed from a separate power source.

The Maerklin 60113 red and brown wires feed into the red and black binding posts on the top row (not shown in my photo since I have it temporarily disconnected). In my case I had to cut off the spade connectors from the 60113 supplied cable.

The track feeds come from the Viessmann red and brown blocks and can be the standard Maerklin ones as shown in the second photo and connected to the C track spades, or soldered to K or M track.

Cheers
Peter
Offline PMPeter  
#39 Posted : 27 January 2014 17:18:33(UTC)
PMPeter

Canada   
Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 1,275
Location: Port Moody, BC
Forgot to answer your other question. No the red and brown wires coming form the 60113 are much smaller gauge than the #14 AWG house wiring bus that I am using. That's OK as long as the bus cable is larger gauge than the 60113 wires and any of the individual feeds to track sections, the bus is doing its job. Does it have to be as big as what I am using? It is probably overkill, but as mentioned before it was left over from another project and thus, free. It was either use it or throw it out in the recycling bin, so I used it.

Cheers
Peter
Offline BrandonVA  
#40 Posted : 27 January 2014 19:53:36(UTC)
BrandonVA

United States   
Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,533
Location: VA
Originally Posted by: PMPeter Go to Quoted Post
Forgot to answer your other question. No the red and brown wires coming form the 60113 are much smaller gauge than the #14 AWG house wiring bus that I am using. That's OK as long as the bus cable is larger gauge than the 60113 wires and any of the individual feeds to track sections, the bus is doing its job. Does it have to be as big as what I am using? It is probably overkill, but as mentioned before it was left over from another project and thus, free. It was either use it or throw it out in the recycling bin, so I used it.

Cheers
Peter


I used 14 gauge wire for my bus as well. I just cut the C-track clips off the ends of the wires on the 60113 track box and replace them with Marklin sockets.

-Brandon
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Offline yuewu9188  
#41 Posted : 04 February 2014 23:34:07(UTC)
yuewu9188

China   
Joined: 22/01/2014(UTC)
Posts: 19
Location: Xi'an
Originally Posted by: PMPeter Go to Quoted Post
Forgot to answer your other question. No the red and brown wires coming form the 60113 are much smaller gauge than the #14 AWG house wiring bus that I am using. That's OK as long as the bus cable is larger gauge than the 60113 wires and any of the individual feeds to track sections, the bus is doing its job. Does it have to be as big as what I am using? It is probably overkill, but as mentioned before it was left over from another project and thus, free. It was either use it or throw it out in the recycling bin, so I used it.

Cheers
Peter


Hi Peter,

Sorry for my late reply, thanks again for your explanation! The information you gave are more than helpful to me. It saved me Much Much time wondering and searching online. Hopefully I can get my layout done by this August. :)

Best,
Wu
Offline mike c  
#42 Posted : 05 February 2014 04:45:30(UTC)
mike c

Canada   
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC)
Posts: 7,899
Location: Montreal, QC
Wu,

If you can get some ethyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol, it is very good for cleaning tracks. Because it evaporates, it leaves little residue and the tracks will not rust (as might happen if you used water).
You can probably find this type of alcohol at a pharmacy. I would not use lighter fluid because it is more flammable and might damage the plastic of the C Track.

Regarding information and Maerklin supplies. I had indicated that there was a distributor in Hong Kong. There is also an excellent dealer in BC Canada that is a lot closer to China than Germany. It is called Eurorailhobbies. There is also Trains N Toys in Australia and elsewhere in SE Asia.

There are also a number of forum members in Asia and they may be able to guide you to the closest resources to you.

Regards

Mike C



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Offline yuewu9188  
#43 Posted : 08 February 2014 00:09:31(UTC)
yuewu9188

China   
Joined: 22/01/2014(UTC)
Posts: 19
Location: Xi'an
Originally Posted by: mike c Go to Quoted Post
Wu,

If you can get some ethyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol, it is very good for cleaning tracks. Because it evaporates, it leaves little residue and the tracks will not rust (as might happen if you used water).
You can probably find this type of alcohol at a pharmacy. I would not use lighter fluid because it is more flammable and might damage the plastic of the C Track.

Regarding information and Maerklin supplies. I had indicated that there was a distributor in Hong Kong. There is also an excellent dealer in BC Canada that is a lot closer to China than Germany. It is called Eurorailhobbies. There is also Trains N Toys in Australia and elsewhere in SE Asia.

There are also a number of forum members in Asia and they may be able to guide you to the closest resources to you.

Regards

Mike C





Hi Mike,

I can easily get ethyl alcohol, thanks a lot! I too have concerns about lighter fluid since it is flammable.

I have tried thelokshop (a German dealer) last week, good price there. I have checked Eurorailhobbies, and found they also exclude VAT for international address, so the price is right. :) Thanks again!

Well, since a lot of items I am interested are out of stock from these retailers, I have to buy most locomotives and cars on ebay.de auctions, luckily the auction prices were usually cheaper, depends on luck. :)

Anyway, thank you for your generous help Mike!

Best,
Wu
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