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Offline 4et  
#1 Posted : 18 January 2014 21:04:16(UTC)
4et

Russian Federation   
Joined: 18/01/2014(UTC)
Posts: 2
Location: MOSCOW CITY, MOSCOW
Hello, i`m new user of Marklin. Help me, please.
I bought used the railroad 29506.
UserPostedImage
But my locomotive does not go, but only shining lights and the light is regulated by transformer control.

UserPostedImage

Tell me, please, can the train control board is defective or installed jumpers incorrectly on the board? I have no instructions
UserPostedImage
UserPostedImage

P.S. I'm sure similar topic at the forum were, but I did not find it, select them, if not difficult. Thanks.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by 4et
Offline kbvrod  
#2 Posted : 18 January 2014 21:27:49(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Originally Posted by: 4et Go to Quoted Post
Hello, i`m new user of Marklin. Help me, please.
I bought used the railroad 29506.


Hi 4et and welcome to the Marklin-users.net!ThumpUp

Now,just apply power to the ski/slider/pickup shoe and one of the wheels,to see how the loks works,...

Report back to me tomorrow!LOL

Kev

Edited by moderator 19 January 2014 22:10:33(UTC)  | Reason: Removed duplicated pictures

Offline franciscohg  
#3 Posted : 18 January 2014 21:48:45(UTC)
franciscohg

Chile   
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC)
Posts: 3,298
Location: Patagonia
Hello, welcome to the forum, your jumpers are ok for analog operation, if you get lights and no movement the problem might be stiffened oil in the motor or axles, clean an relubricate the engine, also check the motor brushes.
Regards
UserPostedImage German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
Offline vilithejou  
#4 Posted : 18 January 2014 21:50:57(UTC)
vilithejou


Joined: 17/01/2004(UTC)
Posts: 850
Location: Vic, Barcelona
The motor are dirty, clean it..
before, you can press the lok to the track and try to move...

I hope you have lucky :-)
Joan Vilarrúbia
vilithejou@yahoo.es
Fan of Märklín, Kroko lover
Offline Janne75  
#5 Posted : 18 January 2014 22:25:08(UTC)
Janne75

Finland   
Joined: 23/03/2012(UTC)
Posts: 2,552
Location: Finland
Hi and welcome to this forum,

You can contact member Andrey as he lives in Moscow too. I think he can help you if needed? I would just take the brushes off carefully by lifting brush holding springs. Just take off the black and copper color brushes. Then try to rotate locomotives rear wheels by your fingers, but be careful and rotate both wheels at the same time to prevent the wheels from rotating around their axles... If you manage to get them to rotate next step would be to put some drops of light oil (Märklin oil or Faller oil for example) to motor axles and gear + wheel axles if needed. Best way would be to open the whole motor and clean it, but if you find it too difficult task try these first. See how the brushes look and clean the ends. If they look ok, put them back in motor. See that they come back to right place and see that brush springs have some pressure against them.

If still no success, then there might be some other problem and then I recommend to open the whole motor if any wire is not loose.

I hope you get it fixed. Please report here when you get it running, as we all want to know what was the cause of this running problem.

Edit: In your photo where the wheels are shown the rear wheel looks to be rotated to wrong position vs. two other wheels. See the wheel weights location to each other.

Regards,
Janne
Märklin H0 digital layout. I have analog and digital H0 Collection. Rolling stock mostly from era I, II, III and IV. Märklin 1 gauge beginner.
thanks 4 users liked this useful post by Janne75
Offline cookee_nz  
#6 Posted : 18 January 2014 23:46:30(UTC)
cookee_nz

New Zealand   
Joined: 31/12/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3,999
Location: Paremata, Wellington
Originally Posted by: Janne75 Go to Quoted Post
Hi and welcome to this forum,

You can contact member Andrey as he lives in Moscow too. I think he can help you if needed?

(snip)

Edit: In your photo where the wheels are shown the rear wheel looks to be rotated to wrong position vs. two other wheels. See the wheel weights location to each other.

Regards,
Janne


Andrey's profile link Andrey Offline << (hover your mouse over this link to quickview his profile)

I think the wheels are ok. The middle wheel has a larger simulated counterweight because of the mounting of the couplings - but wheel 1 & wheel 3 have small counterweight and they are in the same position as middle wheel

Cheers

Cookee

ThumpUp
Cookee
Wellington
NZ image
Offline cookee_nz  
#7 Posted : 18 January 2014 23:56:22(UTC)
cookee_nz

New Zealand   
Joined: 31/12/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3,999
Location: Paremata, Wellington
Generic service sheet attached, ignore the image of the mechanical reversing unit, you don't have that, yours has a Delta Decoder instead but the oiling and service information is still relevant. Hope it helps until someone else with the same set can scan and upload the exact service sheet for your model Cool
cookee_nz attached the following image(s):
Marklin Service 68299 TAN 0184 ju-1.jpg
Marklin Service 68299 TAN 0184 ju-2.jpg
Marklin Service 68299 TAN 0184 ju-3.jpg
Marklin Service 68299 TAN 0184 ju-4.jpg
Cookee
Wellington
NZ image
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Offline jorge_vilarrubi  
#8 Posted : 19 January 2014 00:00:10(UTC)
jorge_vilarrubi


Joined: 15/12/2003(UTC)
Posts: 655
Location: Buenos Aires,
Originally Posted by: vilithejou Go to Quoted Post
The motor are dirty, clean it..
before, you can press the lok to the track and try to move...

I hope you have lucky :-)


I strongly recommend not to do that.

Trying to move the wheels by hand puts a great load on the gears chain.

If the motor is stuck due to solidified oil (a quite usual problem), most probably the plastic gear in the chain will be damaged.

The better solution for this problem is to disassemble the Lok completely and clean all parts with some kind of industrial solvent.
This cleanup includes the wheels/axles/gears.

Let it dry well and oil it according to Märklin recommendations.

Hope this helps.

Best regards,

Jorge.
Jorge Vilarrubí
Buenos Aires
ARGENTINA
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Offline franciscohg  
#9 Posted : 19 January 2014 00:40:26(UTC)
franciscohg

Chile   
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC)
Posts: 3,298
Location: Patagonia
Well yes, being a kid and first unpacking my dad's train after many years, i have done that to make a 3000 move.....results: a broken teeth on the plastic gear as pointed out by Jorge.
UserPostedImage German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
Offline vilithejou  
#10 Posted : 19 January 2014 08:51:55(UTC)
vilithejou


Joined: 17/01/2004(UTC)
Posts: 850
Location: Vic, Barcelona
Originally Posted by: jorge_vilarrubi Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: vilithejou Go to Quoted Post
The motor are dirty, clean it..
before, you can press the lok to the track and try to move...

I hope you have lucky :-)


I strongly recommend not to do that.

Trying to move the wheels by hand puts a great load on the gears chain.

If the motor is stuck due to solidified oil (a quite usual problem), most probably the plastic gear in the chain will be damaged.

The better solution for this problem is to disassemble the Lok completely and clean all parts with some kind of industrial solvent.
This cleanup includes the wheels/axles/gears.

Let it dry well and oil it according to Märklin recommendations.

Hope this helps.

Best regards,

Jorge.


Jorge

Wow... you know you can do that with carefully for known if the problem is the decoder or engine...
Of course only a very short time...
Another option is try to move the wheels with the fingers..... and try to put again on the track...
But the engine will be cleaned immediately
:-)
Joan Vilarrúbia
vilithejou@yahoo.es
Fan of Märklín, Kroko lover
Offline Renato  
#11 Posted : 19 January 2014 10:22:43(UTC)
Renato

Italy   
Joined: 19/03/2004(UTC)
Posts: 976
Location: Gorizia, Italy
Originally Posted by: franciscohg Go to Quoted Post
Well yes, being a kid and first unpacking my dad's train after many years, i have done that to make a 3000 move.....results: a broken teeth on the plastic gear as pointed out by Jorge.


The same happened to me and my 3000 when I was a kid.

Cheers

Renato

Offline Webmaster  
#12 Posted : 19 January 2014 19:40:17(UTC)
Webmaster


Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC)
Posts: 11,165
When I look at this picture, it seems like the spring for the carbon brush is resting on the edge of the well, instead of pressing the brush itself.
It certainly looks that way since the groove in the carbon brush has an other angle than it should have if the spring "leg" had been there...

The decoder settings are set ok for analog operation.

Could be as simple as the image suggests...
Webmaster attached the following image(s):
spring.jpg
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service...
He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Webmaster
Offline hgk  
#13 Posted : 19 January 2014 20:19:31(UTC)
hgk


Joined: 10/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 455
Location: Pacific Ocean
UserPostedImage

Also check if the top right pin on that ic chip needs to be re soldered.
Offline Webmaster  
#14 Posted : 21 January 2014 20:06:13(UTC)
Webmaster


Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC)
Posts: 11,165
I hope 4et has read the answers and tried them... I'm convinced it is a misaligned brush spring that is the primary problem for the motor not running...
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service...
He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
Offline TheFatTick  
#15 Posted : 22 January 2014 17:10:15(UTC)
TheFatTick

United States   
Joined: 11/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 46
I've got what may or may not be a related question:

I have a Marklin 3094 analogue locomotive that runs very sporadically. The odd thing is that if I lift the rear wheels of the loco off the track, so that only the front wheels and the front part of the pick-up shoe are in contact with the rails, it runs like a champ. Likewise, if I lift the front of the loco, so that only the rear wheels and the back of the pick-up shoe are in contact with the rails, it also merrily chugs away flawlessly. It is only when the loco rests properly with all wheels properly set on the outer rails and the full pick-up shoe resting on the third rail that it operates in fits and spurts.

Any ideas? I suspect the pick-up shoe, but do not see anything visible that would confirm my suspicion.

Offline BrandonVA  
#16 Posted : 22 January 2014 17:23:44(UTC)
BrandonVA

United States   
Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,533
Location: VA
Hi,

I believe in this locomotive there is a copper strip in the front and rear bogies that helps it make ground contact. I suspect these strips are dirty, bent or perhaps both. When you lift up part of the loco you are increasing pressure on the bogie that is still on the track and thus improving the connection.

I would recommend removing the bogies, cleaning the copper strip and bogie axles well, and then checking the pressure to make sure the copper strip contacts the axle when attached to the loco body.

The copper strips would be pieces #36 and #39 in the attached diagram.

-Brandon
BrandonVA attached the following image(s):
parts.JPG
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Offline TheFatTick  
#17 Posted : 23 January 2014 00:48:05(UTC)
TheFatTick

United States   
Joined: 11/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 46
That basically did the trick Brandon. Thank you!

It still lurches a bit, but I think a good overall cleaning and maintenance session should go a long way towards curing any remaining glitches.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by TheFatTick
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