have been working on turnouts, signals etc and have only one more to complete the installation of all on my layout. When installing a 7041 signal coupled to a 5202 turnout, I read in a translation from German that says "when the green button is in the raised position, the signal show green/go; with a raised red showing red/stop." My question: I always thought if I pressed the red button on the control box, it meant stop and green--go; if I leave my setup to reflect my interpretation, will I be haunted by this? Will I have to make larger changes later or should I bite the bullet and make all the changes now? thanks. Lorene<img src=icon_smile_blackeye.gif border=0 align=middle>

Juhan, Juhan,
I didn't think that of you <img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>

The translation certainly is correct, meaning, that it has always been Märklins advice to have it that way. Green button leaves the red button most visible -&gt; red signal or curved turnout. The old blue boxes had colour markings on the socket, assuring this too.

But Lorene, why bother? If you like it better the other way, and I admit it's also my own first choice, keep it the way you have it. I can only figure one single problem with that, and that is of no importance to you. If you in the future should use control boxes with feedback leds, usable only with C-track (and maybe K-track) turnouts, and signals from Viessmann etc, you will get the red LED lit when the signal is green, and the green LED lit when the signal is red. But, why bother, at that you you will have half a minute of work to switch the connections on the back of the control boxes...

Coming so far I decided to check things. I have boxes with LEDs, and to my astonishment (and embarresment<img src=icon_smile_blush.gif border=0 align=middle>) it showed that I'm lying.
Märklin has changed their mind! I'm still sure that in the old times, with blue boxes and probably the instruction you posess, Lorene, it was as I said, to the first socket goes a green plug.

The white boxes are unmarked. But with LEDs, the first socket should have the red plug, meaning that pushing red button lits the red LED, and sets signals to red and turnouts to curve. White boxes also don't leave any buttons up or down.

So, the conclusion of course, you should certainly leave it as it is, unless you find a certain pleasure with having it as it was in the 60's.

Regards,
Lars Westerlind.

Oh,
what a waste of a childhood. Fortunately it was not completely spoiled, compared to the poor younsters of today, that haven't ever owned a train...

Regars,
Lars

Dear Lorene,
Since I wired my only signal back in the 60's childhood the way you have done, I presume your wiring will work just fine... And it seems like it is nowadays the right way to do it anyway... <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

I don't know if this is appropriate or not but I will share. . a joke. . .a waiter was taking a bowl of soup to a diner in a restaurant; he happened to look down at the soup and it was so awful looking, he decided to stir it to see if it would help the appearance. Needless to say, when he did, all sorts of ugly things came to the surface. He remarked, "gee, I'm sorry I stirred it." So, the joke around here is "I'm sorry I stirred it." (No, I'm not sorry I asked the original question.)
No, I was not offended, I totally enjoy the camaraderie shared by all on this website. Besides being enjoyable, I have learned a lot.
Another question: I am ready to affix by track to my layout table using screws provided by Marklin. There are so many, I wondered if anyone knows of a small electric screw driver I could use. I have a Dremel but the revolutions are too fast for these small screws. Lorene

Good advice, Thanos. But electric is more comfortable indeed...<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
Lorene, if you go to your nearest hardware store - ask for an electric screwdriver tool that can be momentum-adjusted so it "slips" when enough tension occurs. That way you don't have to worry about breaking the screws. These gadgets are normally powered by rechargable batteries. The Dremel is much too poweful for this kind of work... I myself don't screw the tracks, I intend to use hot glue instead... But for other types of work I use a rechargable B&D drill with momentum adjustment.