Weathering quick and dirty - Non destructive weathering video Share  Email this topic  LinkBack Topic URL  Retweet this Topic  Share Topic on Google+  Like this Topic  Share on Facebook  Digg this Topic  Reddit this Topic  Share on Tumblr Options  Watch this topic  Print this topic View » Normal Threaded

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Martin T		#1 Posted : 26 March 2013 23:00:49(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 872 Location: Stockholm, Sweden		Hi! Weathering seems to be such a holy cow.With all respect to the artists that really do magic with your brushes. In this video I do it my way. Quick, dirty and non-destructive. It's not according to any prototype picture, just to get a generally weathered look, which is not special, not completely correct, but not completetly wrong either. Best of all. You're done in 4 minutes! Who said I'm always in a hurry to get the jobs done?!
		Regards / Martin T Click your way over to me in Marbrodal in Sweden: http://www.xn--mrklintg-0zaq.se/index_e.html
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14 users liked this useful post by Martin T		obxbill, michelvr, MikeK, Chook, GSRR, seatrains, SNAFU, kbvrod, intruder, Danlake, Mark5, Janne75, Christoffer, GlennM
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obxbill		#2 Posted : 27 March 2013 00:01:02(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 20/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,300 Location: manteo, nc		Excellent how-to! Thanks for doin that. very simple but also effective and it could always be sealed with a clear flat to make it permanent. Bill
		Marklin HO and Z also Hornby 00 and US 2-rail
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Martin T		#3 Posted : 27 March 2013 09:42:01(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 872 Location: Stockholm, Sweden		Originally Posted by: obxbill Excellent how-to! Thanks for doin that. very simple but also effective and it could always be sealed with a clear flat to make it permanent. Bill Thank you! Correct Bill. There are several ways to move beyond this simple way to weather by using basically same method with chalks, but add wash, coat and build rust in layers. I have plans to make several episodes of this tutorial in the near future. I personally hesitated long before I started to paint any of my precious rolling stock. With this method anyone can grow their skills without loosing value of the Märklin products and later, when your skills has grown, move over to a permanent weathering bringing all those skills with you. Again, thank you very much for the positive feedback and thanks.
		Regards / Martin T Click your way over to me in Marbrodal in Sweden: http://www.xn--mrklintg-0zaq.se/index_e.html
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kbvrod		#4 Posted : 27 March 2013 16:15:45(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,597 Location: Beverly, MA		Hi Martin,all, Great! PM me we have a lot to talk about! Dr D
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Christoffer		#5 Posted : 27 March 2013 16:25:38(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/12/2010(UTC) Posts: 760		To keep the powder there, you can use a fixative for this. Dullcoat or similar, a matt fixative is preferred :) Christoffer
		Loco's around the little layout My Review of the ESU BR 151 Old Volvo's Never Die, They Only Go Faster Christoffer
1 user liked this useful post by Christoffer		Danlake
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BR01097		#6 Posted : 29 March 2013 03:09:01(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/11/2010(UTC) Posts: 228 Location: Denver, Colo. USA		These all came out so well, each unique, which is hard to get in mass-produced quantities. Many of my models look way too new to be typical rolling stock one might see. But they are Marklin, they are not cheap. This reversible, easy method takes away all worries. Stort tack!
		____________________________________________________________________________ Collector of Märklin fine-quality trains since 1966.
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Martin T		#7 Posted : 03 April 2013 08:36:15(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 872 Location: Stockholm, Sweden		Hi! I got a comment from elsewhere, which needs to be added to this. I show a stiff brush in the video with rather short hair length. One way to achieve this is to cut a brush you may have in store already. Then, if you do so. Please make sure to swipe the cut brush back and forth over rather rough sanding paper. You may already guessed why.. All the hairs cut with a scissor, or knife gets a kind of square end shape, which might scratch the plastic surface of your wagons. After the sanding treatment, it will not. Also, the sanding treatment will make the brush capable of carrying more of the chalk too, so you will get new properties in that end too. That's it!
		Regards / Martin T Click your way over to me in Marbrodal in Sweden: http://www.xn--mrklintg-0zaq.se/index_e.html
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Martin T		#8 Posted : 03 April 2013 09:28:10(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 872 Location: Stockholm, Sweden		Originally Posted by: Christoffer To keep the powder there, you can use a fixative for this. Dullcoat or similar, a matt fixative is preferred :) Christoffer Hi Christoffer, Yes, you are absolutely right. Or one can use a dull coat with airbrush too, in case you have one. A word of advise on this topic.. About 50% of the effect from the powder is lost when the coat is applied. So build up with plenty of extra dust if you intend to put protective coat over it.
		Regards / Martin T Click your way over to me in Marbrodal in Sweden: http://www.xn--mrklintg-0zaq.se/index_e.html
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arcanjo		#9 Posted : 03 April 2013 16:32:19(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 14/02/2010(UTC) Posts: 141 Location: Portugal		Hi all! I, who don´t have much artistic hands, is almost convinced to try this on a simple wagon! Doesn´t look too hard to do! Regards and great job! Miguel
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Christoffer		#10 Posted : 07 April 2013 01:57:45(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/12/2010(UTC) Posts: 760		Hello everyone. Here is a similar doing like Martin did in his video. The only difference is that i have used burnt umber acrylic paint on the trucks before i powdered them down, this will also make the powder stay in place.. Also took a round with dry brush on the rest before powder.. it is a huge difference.. an improvment in my eyes, you can also do without the paint on the trucks, but i like it this way cause it tones down the plastic look, while the powder makes it dirty Christoffer
		Loco's around the little layout My Review of the ESU BR 151 Old Volvo's Never Die, They Only Go Faster Christoffer
5 users liked this useful post by Christoffer		Danlake, kbvrod, Mark5, obxbill, Janne75
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Christoffer		#11 Posted : 07 April 2013 20:59:20(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/12/2010(UTC) Posts: 760		Hi again. Weathering inspires me alot, so i did have a go with powder on my EL 10 and here are the result : This is powder only, no paint no fuss, just powdered down, then i used a cotton swab for touch up. What do you think? Christoffer
		Loco's around the little layout My Review of the ESU BR 151 Old Volvo's Never Die, They Only Go Faster Christoffer
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kbvrod		#12 Posted : 07 April 2013 21:55:23(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,597 Location: Beverly, MA		Originally Posted by: Martin T Originally Posted by: Christoffer To keep the powder there, you can use a fixative for this. Dullcoat or similar, a matt fixative is preferred :) Christoffer Hi Christoffer, Yes, you are absolutely right. Or one can use a dull coat with airbrush too, in case you have one. A word of advise on this topic.. About 50% of the effect from the powder is lost when the coat is applied. So build up with plenty of extra dust if you intend to put protective coat over it. Hi Martin,all, It does depend on the powder/chalk used. My first attempts,it did as you said blow it right off. Yet,I found other chalks that actually stayed where I put them.Another tip- rub and scrub three men in a tub and they will hold better.Also,if the effect is not to you standard,have chalks ready to brush over before the varnish/Dull-cote dries. Dr D
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kbvrod		#13 Posted : 07 April 2013 22:01:57(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,597 Location: Beverly, MA		Originally Posted by: Christoffer Hello everyone. it is a huge difference.. an improvment in my eyes, you can also do w ithout the paint on the trucks, but i like it this way cause it tones down the plastic look, while the powder makes it dirty Christoffer Hi Chris,all, It does! However,that much -rust- would cause concern for the railroad Weathering on boggies is in part dust,in that what ever is kicked up from the ballast and soil and attached to the bearings<- is what weathers these. Dr D
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Christoffer		#14 Posted : 07 April 2013 22:22:16(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/12/2010(UTC) Posts: 760		Originally Posted by: kbvrod Originally Posted by: Christoffer Hello everyone. it is a huge difference.. an improvment in my eyes, you can also do w ithout the paint on the trucks, but i like it this way cause it tones down the plastic look, while the powder makes it dirty Christoffer Hi Chris,all, It does! However,that much -rust- would cause concern for the railroad Weathering on boggies is in part dust,in that what ever is kicked up from the ballast and soil and attached to the bearings<- is what weathers these. Dr D Concern? hah, i guess you have never been to norway example from Norwegian Railroad Club here .. Svein Sando has the copyright of this photo : http://pix.njk.no/16/o16102-20185-10.2506.jpg As you see, no worries.. not everything that has the rust color has to simulate the rust it self, but dust in rust color.. Just sayin. I guess it depends abit where in the world you are.
		Loco's around the little layout My Review of the ESU BR 151 Old Volvo's Never Die, They Only Go Faster Christoffer
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Martin T		#15 Posted : 11 April 2013 10:37:24(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 872 Location: Stockholm, Sweden		Originally Posted by: Christoffer Hi again. Weathering inspires me alot, so i did have a go with powder on my EL 10 and here are the result : This is powder only, no paint no fuss, just powdered down, then i used a cotton swab for touch up. What do you think? Christoffer Wow! Really nice work Christoffer! I still have not powdered any locos yet. It's great to have a photo to start from like you have.
		Regards / Martin T Click your way over to me in Marbrodal in Sweden: http://www.xn--mrklintg-0zaq.se/index_e.html
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Chook		#16 Posted : 11 April 2013 15:00:13(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/08/2012(UTC) Posts: 234 Location: Perth, Western Australia.		Christoffer that is impressive. Have you described your track weathering process yet - they look good as well? Regards......Chook.
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Christoffer		#17 Posted : 11 April 2013 20:12:28(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/12/2010(UTC) Posts: 760		Hello Martin. Thanks, i was inspired by the NJK database and this thread so it was just to have a go and see what i could do. After i took the picture i also did something to the roof (light black powder, tones down the silver roof a bit. As you know its just to have a go, if you don't like it you can always try again so you are not ruining your model. i think a wise thing to do is get hold of latex gloves, so you don't leave fingermarks on the model, the powder will show your finger prints Happy weathering ! Christoffer
		Loco's around the little layout My Review of the ESU BR 151 Old Volvo's Never Die, They Only Go Faster Christoffer
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Christoffer		#18 Posted : 11 April 2013 20:30:21(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/12/2010(UTC) Posts: 760		Originally Posted by: Chook Christoffer that is impressive. Have you described your track weathering process yet - they look good as well? Regards......Chook. Thanks Chook, Glad you like it. Maybe this will inspire more people to try weathering, either loco or wagons its not that hard, watch a picture of the 1:1 see where dust and rust is, use that as a basis for where to apply the powder. i went and bought cosmetic brushes to use for powder, it works perfect.. The Rails, they are done with humbrol enamels for this i used two colors and mix 110 and 113 (Flat/Matte) Seems absurd that the one they call wood color can be mixed with their rust to make it look better other than that there is nothing special to it, i do it all by hand painting, it is very time consuming but i like it Christoffer Edited by user 12 April 2013 01:09:29(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
		Loco's around the little layout My Review of the ESU BR 151 Old Volvo's Never Die, They Only Go Faster Christoffer
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hxmiesa		#19 Posted : 19 April 2013 09:28:30(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,520 Location: Spain		Nice effect! -It certainly does give a realistic weathered look! However, I was put down by the absence of weathering on your lok. Now that you have talked the talk in the video, you need to walk the walk with the loko... ;-) Without a coat of dull varnish, I fear that all this chalk-dust will fall onto the tracks, and get mixed up with the rubber from the traction tires and grease from the drivetrains...
		Best regards Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain") http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
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Christoffer		#20 Posted : 19 April 2013 09:48:49(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/12/2010(UTC) Posts: 760		Originally Posted by: hxmiesa Nice effect! -It certainly does give a realistic weathered look! However, I was put down by the absence of weathering on your lok. Now that you have talked the talk in the video, you need to walk the walk with the loko... ;-) Without a coat of dull varnish, I fear that all this chalk-dust will fall onto the tracks, and get mixed up with the rubber from the traction tires and grease from the drivetrains... Hi Henrik. I don't know if you are speaking to me or to Martin. Martin did the Car in the video, and i did the loco. i showed off the loco since there was something i was doing at the same time. With this technique you should be more worried about finger prints on the work you've done rather than that the chalk falls off. Thats one of the most important thing to get at good result is to make sure before you chalk the model up. Cause the chalk will show your's or other's finger prints. Have a great weekend Christoffer
		Loco's around the little layout My Review of the ESU BR 151 Old Volvo's Never Die, They Only Go Faster Christoffer
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Goofy		#21 Posted : 15 July 2013 07:54:57(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 9,019		It´s very nice video and tips i see here! A tip from me: I use first base ground color thinned with special thinner for acryl color. Use rust...dirt...black color. Let color dry before to use powder pigment. It seals better because thinner works like glue to seal powder pigment.
		H0 DCC = Digital Command Control
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