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Offline Dok-  
#1 Posted : 19 January 2013 01:10:15(UTC)
Dok-

Finland   
Joined: 19/01/2013(UTC)
Posts: 11
Greetings everyone!

I'm new here and new on Märklin Z-scale train hobby. Bought my first starter kit 81569 in december 2012. I assembled it back then and at first everything seemed to be going Ok. Then I decided to expand my track with the 8191 set, got it from the mail today, and now just few moments ago finished assembling first test installation with it. It's directly as the 50x100cm layout from the track plan book (page 6) that also came with the kits. So I double-checked that every track is on its place, all firmly attached, the the wiring, I actually googled couple of sites to make sure it goes right (zscale.info and guidetozscale.com, both have very good pictures which is great as I'm new to this hobby), then double-checked them - and they were all absolutely as they should.

Now.. plug in the power supply, quick check on the electromagnetic turnouts from their control box. All working just smoothly. Then I put my starter kit train on the track, just the loco, to run a test round with it. Everything went Ok, made couple of circles with it. Then I decided to test the turnouts, so I turned the speed control to 0, pushed the button to change the turnout (nearest to the power feed track) so I could back up the train to one of the sidetracks. But then, after the turnout switched just fine and I turned the speed control, the loco didn't respond at all. I turned it back to 0 and tried forward, but still nothing happens. I unplugged the power supply, checked again all my wirings, checked that all wires are firmly on their plugs & places - it all checks good. Just as I alreary had checked them many times before running anything on the new track layout.

So because I found no problems, I plugged the power supply back to the wall, but still nothing. No respond what so ever from the loco. I tried to position the loco on different spots on the layout, also directly on the power feed track, then tried through all combinations on the turnout controls (they still worked just fine, the switches) and still nothing. Then I got kind of really worried, and googled some more on the wiring and with few other keywords for possible problem situations, but got nothing new. All my wirings checked perfectly fine, and it's not even too complicated yet with only S + E kits. I don't literally smell anything weird, and didn't for example hear any additional worrying "sounds, buzzes or clicks" while all this happened. I tried to unplug the power supply couple of times more, but nothing helps. No matter which way the train is on the track, it doesn't respond to the controls at all. Last thing I did was disconnecting the switch control box (while the power supply was detached from the wall of course) from the main controller, but after plugging the power back in, it didn't help either. Nothing that I can figure seems to solve the issue. I'm quite worried that the loco got damaged by the new parts / layout somehow, but I can't figure out anything that could of caused that to happen.

Just to clarify my wiring, it is done as shown in this picture . Only difference is of course that there are two turnouts on my layout, but they both follow excactly the same pattern.

Any tips and/or advices would be very welcome.. Unsure

EDIT: Small update, I removed the turnouts from the layout and made it to basic oval track, I got the loco to woke up few times(!), but it seems unstable.. the movement is very stuttering, varying its speed by itself and so on.

Oh, and I think I also forgot to mention that all parts that I've used here are new from the box.

And the next problem is that I also bought a new loco with this expansion set, and I'm deeply worried to dare try it on the new layout (with the turnouts assembled)..

I think I'll sleep over it and try to make more sense to the issue tomorrow. Confused

Edited by user 07 February 2013 09:00:56(UTC)  | Reason: Updates

Offline DigitalNZ  
#2 Posted : 19 January 2013 11:07:22(UTC)
DigitalNZ

New Zealand   
Joined: 13/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 233
Location: Masterton, New Zealand
Welcome to the forum Dok,

I had a similar experience with a stuttering loco. For some reason the motor wasn't turning, but it was trying to.

I (probably stupidly) flicked the motor over with a pair of tweezers I had handy as it looked stuck and it worked again. It didn't like starting after it was stopped however. I re-installed and the brushes in it and it was back to normal.

I'd advise you to look at the motor and see if it tries to move was you vary the voltage (and direction) with the transformer, it may have just got stuck like mine did. It could possibly do with a drop of Märklin oil, have a look and let us know how you get on.

With Z scale there's not really a lot that can go wrong as its all pretty simple DC stuff with no digital electronics to worry about. You just need a good magnifying glass and steady hands to fix stuff! I'd very much doubt that the turnouts could be causing problems. I'd set them all straight and try that other loco you've got.

Kind regards,

Daniell
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Offline Dok-  
#3 Posted : 19 January 2013 11:57:24(UTC)
Dok-

Finland   
Joined: 19/01/2013(UTC)
Posts: 11
Originally Posted by: DigitalNZ Go to Quoted Post
Welcome to the forum Dok,

I had a similar experience with a stuttering loco. For some reason the motor wasn't turning, but it was trying to.

I (probably stupidly) flicked the motor over with a pair of tweezers I had handy as it looked stuck and it worked again. It didn't like starting after it was stopped however. I re-installed and the brushes in it and it was back to normal.

I'd advise you to look at the motor and see if it tries to move was you vary the voltage (and direction) with the transformer, it may have just got stuck like mine did. It could possibly do with a drop of Märklin oil, have a look and let us know how you get on.

With Z scale there's not really a lot that can go wrong as its all pretty simple DC stuff with no digital electronics to worry about. You just need a good magnifying glass and steady hands to fix stuff! I'd very much doubt that the turnouts could be causing problems. I'd set them all straight and try that other loco you've got.

Kind regards,

Daniell


Thank you Daniell for your answer!

But should it really do that just yet, I mean its only about one month since I took it out of the starter box and it's been running on very very little use. The thing that worries me is that should I just contact the shop and send it back along the warranty, because I'm guessing that if I touch those screws at the bottom of the loco or try to open it in any way, that'll be the end of the warranty option.

Another thing that puzzles me is that the starter set has been on product program not until 2011-2012, so could it be possible that the motor would already require oiling? I thought I'll be safe for some time (as the parts I've bought so far have been new) and buy some good brand oli later on along the hobby.

I must say that because this starter set loco is my first ever z-serie loco, I don't have much experience in all how they should work in practice. I've always had to turn the speed control to 120 before I get the loco moving (even on the small starter track). It's been that way right out of the box. Then you could slightly tune it down, maybe to 90, and still keep it running - but all speeds under that were definitely off. The loco would just simply stop. And there has been some little stutter/varying on the speeds before (all under the maximum, which is too fast anyway), so that I can't really say that the loco has ever runned "just smoothly". At least not anything below the speed 120 from then control unit. But it hasn't never completely stopped responding before, like it does on 50/50 chance now.

EDIT: I'm uploading few vids to youtube at the moment (takes some time, I'll add the links later on asap) to illustrate the situation better, because I don't think that the problem is on the train/trains anymore, at least not alone caused by them. I run the first test rounds with my new 88973 loco, and all of the problems still apply. Since the turnaouts aren't really even wired to the track or the main control box, I'll also edit the topic name to be more describing.

Could it be either the power supply, or (maybe more likely) the main control unit itself causing this..(?) Confused
Offline Dok-  
#4 Posted : 19 January 2013 15:47:16(UTC)
Dok-

Finland   
Joined: 19/01/2013(UTC)
Posts: 11
Here are few videos to demonstrate the stuttering and random stops/no responsiveness to control unit.

< Video 1 > with starter set loco, stuttering and varying speeds

< Video 2 > with starter set loco, stutter and stop (a)

< Video 3 > with starter set loco, stutter and stop (b)

< Video 4 > with 88973 loco, stutter and stop

All additional help, tips and advices still much appreciated.
Offline witzlerh  
#5 Posted : 19 January 2013 16:20:32(UTC)
witzlerh

Canada   
Joined: 25/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 417
Location: Sherwood Park, AB, Canada
Hmm. I don't have Z scale, just HO. I do know this; there may be some manufacturing process oil remaining on the track. Give them a wipe. It may not help much but it will remove a variable. Same goes with the wheels.

As for checking out the motor etc. as it is new, talk to your dealer before opening it up. If you are OK with it, open up the lok and ensure that there is no oil in places where it should not go.

I had over oiled my Loks in the past and had similar issues until I removed the excess.

This is my little 2 bits. There are more experienced z scale users around.
Harald
CS2 DB & Canadian Era 3-6
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Offline DigitalNZ  
#6 Posted : 19 January 2013 20:38:21(UTC)
DigitalNZ

New Zealand   
Joined: 13/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 233
Location: Masterton, New Zealand
I did over oil mine and it did make it worse as Harald said, until I removed the excess. If you have a dealer handy you could talk and take it to him for a look.

It could on the other hand just be as simple as the loco needing a bit of running in. New locos often need to be run at a variety of speeds for a few hours when they are new. This usually goes for all makes and sizes too. The first videos looked like a new loco needing some use to me. Video B looked like what mine would do with stopping around the 50 mark.

I've had to get the dial past 30 or so to get them moving but I can usually then slow it down. (I only have the one Z loco, the rest is all HO).

If you have a multimeter (or lucky enough to have an oscilloscope) it could be worth testing the output voltages on the controller. The voltage at maximum speed should be about 10V, I think. I'm not sure if the output is supposed to be linear over the range or not though.

Don't give up with it. I'm sure it will be running properly eventually!

Daniell
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Offline Heine Pedersen  
#7 Posted : 19 January 2013 21:16:48(UTC)
Heine Pedersen


Joined: 03/03/2003(UTC)
Posts: 87
Location: ,
Originally Posted by: Dok- Go to Quoted Post


Could it be either the power supply, or (maybe more likely) the main control unit itself causing this..(?) Confused


You could try to connect some batteries directly to the tracks instead of the control unit and power supply. Try 3 x AA or AAA in series, That would make the voltage 4,5. The trains should run fine on that. If not, it is something wrong with the trains.
.
Offline obxbill  
#8 Posted : 19 January 2013 21:35:15(UTC)
obxbill

United States   
Joined: 20/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,300
Location: manteo, nc
I have some Z-scale as well, though I use Microtrains track. I know that they are temperamental little engines and the least bit of dirt on the tracks or not having the track connections just right, plays havoc on their running quality. As has been said, it could be as well, that the lube could be a problem as well, even if it hasn't been run much....or because it hasn't run much. It could be a good idea to have it cleaned and re-lubed. I know that if mine sit idle for over a week, I have to completely clean the track with an alcohol wetted cloth because the track is already too dirty for them to run smoothly.
Marklin HO and Z also Hornby 00 and US 2-rail
Offline steventrain  
#9 Posted : 19 January 2013 21:42:15(UTC)
steventrain

United Kingdom   
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC)
Posts: 31,685
Location: United Kingdom
Hi Dok,

Welcome to the forum.
Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
Offline Dok-  
#10 Posted : 19 January 2013 22:47:40(UTC)
Dok-

Finland   
Joined: 19/01/2013(UTC)
Posts: 11
More updates..

While looking for some reference & help, I stumbled upon this video along others, and must say that holy smokes.. Blink My much like identical 5-pole motor starter set loco has _never ever_ run like that. It has always, right out of the box, drop dead whenever the speed control is set below ~50. And evet at 50, it would get _so_ unstable and stuttering, that it would be pain to watch it try to fight itself on forward. And seems that this guy is just demonstrating his new freshly assembled set, like 'nothing unusual'.

As an update to my issue.. The new loco, 88973, still stutters while running, and might yet still totally stop by itself, even at relatively average speeds (like 100). Speed ~50 is just pushing luck.. if I leave it running on that speed, it might go with a constantly variating stutter & speeds for few, maybe a dozen of full rounds, but eventually it just stops by its own. This still happens even after I made some dedicated "driving in" with it, for >3hours with varying speeds between 125-200. It basically still runs like a car that has some water condensated to its gasoline tank, if the loco is tried to run at any speeds under ~90. To get it go and running in the first place, the speed must be set to 100-120 to wake it up / start moving.

The smaller, starter set loco (81569), doesn't wake up anymore. I can't get it to operate or take anything from the controller. I opened it up according to the service manual that comes with the starter set, to see if theres some dirt or anything worrying inside. Nothing. It looks like it's been on laboratory conditions, not a mote of dust or anything. Every contact surface and part seems just like its just been put together at the factory, like new and unused. But of course I've been using it randomly since the end of November 2012, so it's fedinitely "driven in" for more than tens of hours.

So, no more clues there, except of course that now the 81569 doesn't move at all anymore. While the loco is still open, I tried it on the track to see if it tries to do anything visible while I turn the speed control - but nothing. Not a slightest buzzing noise, no movement, no life.

I'm thinking ordering some good brand oil now, but still.. the trains are basically brand new, and especially the smaller one was quite well "driven in". But I haven't still seen smooth running since the purchase. On either one of them. Anycase, wouldn't this be a bit too early to the need for additional oiling? The bigger loco is a 2012 model, and the starter loco is 2011-2012, so just wondering.. shouldn't they run just fine out of the box at least for _some_ time(?) Unsure

But many thanks for all tips & advices and also for the warm welcomes! I'm trying to solve the issues as I can along with your helpful replies. Smile

Ps. For the more experienced electrical testing/advices given, I have to say that it's not my strongest area of knowledge, so I'm not so eager to rig anything potentially (I mean in the sense that "if I try to apply them") dangerous to the track or locos for testing puproses. Keeping in mind that these parts are new, so they are under a full warranty - for as long as I don't do anything to void it.

EDIT: I just ordered Labelle 108 oil. Now I'll just have to wait for it to arrive, takes about 1-2weeks.. Sleep
Offline Heine Pedersen  
#11 Posted : 20 January 2013 16:28:10(UTC)
Heine Pedersen


Joined: 03/03/2003(UTC)
Posts: 87
Location: ,
I am pretty sure this has nothing to do with the oil. It wouldn't go completely dead by that. And if it is the oil, it is not lack of it. I know many Z-scalers clean their brand new locos for oil because they think they have to much in the first place. So what ever you do, please don't add more oil to it without cleaning it completely first.

Have you tried to clean the tracks? Z-scale, and especially the steam locos are very sensitive to dust and dirt on the tracks. If you leave the tracks in the open for some days, you will have to clean the tracks. Try to wipe your finger over it, and I am sure you will have a black stripe on your finger tip. I have a Christmas layout with no dust protection in the living room, and I have given up running steamers on it. Have to clean tracks almost every day. Problem is that most steamers only have power pick up on two axles. The electric and diesels with boogies have pick up on 4 axles. I think Märklin is doing a big mistake selling starter sets with steamers. Most newcomers ends up having trouble like your self, and never continue with z.

By the way, the steamer in the video is run by a System Jörger controller which is specially designed for slow and smooth running. The Märklin original controller can't compete with that one. But it shouldn't be the problems you describe.

It is not possible to do any harm to the locos with the battery test, but an easier test would be to use a 9 volt battery like the one in the smoke/fire alert thing in your sealing, and just put it directly to the wheels of the loco. One pole of the battery to one of the wheels at each side. Just remember that the middle axle of the smallest steamer don't have power pick up on the middle axle. The 9 volt battery will run the loco at full speed. And if it does, oil is not your problem.
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Offline kbvrod  
#12 Posted : 20 January 2013 17:39:32(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Originally Posted by: Heine Pedersen Go to Quoted Post
I am pretty sure this has nothing to do with the oil. It wouldn't go completely dead by that. And if it is the oil, it is not lack of it. I know many Z-scalers clean their brand new locos for oil because they think they have to much in the first place. So what ever you do, please don't add more oil to it without cleaning it completely first.

Have you tried to clean the tracks? Z-scale, and especially the steam locos are very sensitive to dust and dirt on the tracks. If you leave the tracks in the open for some days, you will have to clean the tracks. Try to wipe your finger over it, and I am sure you will have a black stripe on your finger tip. I have a Christmas layout with no dust protection in the living room, and I have given up running steamers on it. Have to clean tracks almost every day. Problem is that most steamers only have power pick up on two axles. The electric and diesels with boogies have pick up on 4 axles. I think Märklin is doing a big mistake selling starter sets with steamers. Most newcomers ends up having trouble like your self, and never continue with z.

By the way, the steamer in the video is run by a System Jörger controller which is specially designed for slow and smooth running. The Märklin original controller can't compete with that one. But it shouldn't be the problems you describe.

It is not possible to do any harm to the locos with the battery test, but an easier test would be to use a 9 volt battery like the one in the smoke/fire alert thing in your sealing, and just put it directly to the wheels of the loco. One pole of the battery to one of the wheels at each side. Just remember that the middle axle of the smallest steamer don't have power pick up on the middle axle. The 9 volt battery will run the loco at full speed. And if it does, oil is not your problem.


ThumpUp Good advise everyone!

A few points:

Just because it is 'new' doesn't mean it is.It could have been sitting somewhere for a long time!Märklin oil is junk,there are other quality oils that are much better! I can provide a list,...
If one is going to be a MRR'er than some work is involvedWink At one time or another your going to have to work on loks and maintain them.Great wisdom on this site but learn also by doing!Notebook,photos of what your doing,take it apart and putting it back together!Smile

Cleaning/track cleaning,again read this: http://www.nscale.net/forums/co...-Linn-Westcott-and-No-Ox

Please note:after this this N-scale layout did NOT have to clean his tracks for 5 years!Woot


Dr D



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Offline Dok-  
#13 Posted : 20 January 2013 19:12:53(UTC)
Dok-

Finland   
Joined: 19/01/2013(UTC)
Posts: 11
Originally Posted by: Heine Pedersen Go to Quoted Post
I am pretty sure this has nothing to do with the oil. It wouldn't go completely dead by that. And if it is the oil, it is not lack of it. I know many Z-scalers clean their brand new locos for oil because they think they have to much in the first place. So what ever you do, please don't add more oil to it without cleaning it completely first.

Have you tried to clean the tracks? Z-scale, and especially the steam locos are very sensitive to dust and dirt on the tracks. If you leave the tracks in the open for some days, you will have to clean the tracks. Try to wipe your finger over it, and I am sure you will have a black stripe on your finger tip. I have a Christmas layout with no dust protection in the living room, and I have given up running steamers on it. Have to clean tracks almost every day. Problem is that most steamers only have power pick up on two axles. The electric and diesels with boogies have pick up on 4 axles. I think Märklin is doing a big mistake selling starter sets with steamers. Most newcomers ends up having trouble like your self, and never continue with z.


I now have some isopropyl alcohol on the way, it seems to be the safest & best suited for the track cleaning. I should be able to get an update to that in couple of days.

About cleaning the locos.. when you say "cleaning it completely", is there some pictures or something with basic guidelines for it? Because the Märklin service manual only shows about where to put more oil. Tongue I mean, what parts I should and can safely clean inside the loco? And what accessories should I use, I'm guessing that at least the isopropyl alcohol would be too heavy on anything inside the loco.

Especially when some say "clean all the original factory oil from it" Huh .. I mean, I basically just got this set, and now I would neet to blow it to bits and re-do the assembling better than Märklin, just like reviving some museum loco. That.. just sound so extreme to me, at so early point.

And an update to the smaller loco, I got it running again for few times, but it's very unreliable, and only agrees to work on higher speeds - if at all. I runned a few laps on it while it happened to wake up, and after 15min. or so I stopped it, and noticed that it had became quite hot to touch. Too hot in my opinion to be normal. Lucky I didn't left it running for any longer than that. The speed was only something like ~150. So no more that kind of testing with this loco, before I figure what to do with its issues and whats wrong with it.

I'll update more when I got all the maintenance stuff I've ordered, some of these things can be really hard to combine here..

Again, thank you all! Smile
Offline Heine Pedersen  
#14 Posted : 20 January 2013 20:25:37(UTC)
Heine Pedersen


Joined: 03/03/2003(UTC)
Posts: 87
Location: ,
I think maybe your problem is a combination of dirt on the tracks and to much oil.

It is normal for a locomotive to be hot, but not very hot... But of course if you drive it in full speed for long it will be very hot anyway I guess... I have never tried that my self. Always run slow. :)

The best way to get rid of old oil is to take out the wheel axles and the gears between them and put them in the alcohol and use a tooth brush on them. That should be easy on the starter set loco, but don't try on the larger loco. It will only get you trouble with the sliders (or what they are called in english). Believe me, I have tried. ;)

Access to the gears is easy by removing the bottom plate. But pay attention to the couplers so they don't fall off. If they do the very small springs can be hard to find. Best is to remove them and put them with the springs in a safe place while cleaning the gears.

This shows how the loco is assembled: http://www.maerklin.de/s...1&artikelnummer=8800

Another question: Do the larger loco have lights? If so, is it still on when the loco stalls?
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Offline kbvrod  
#15 Posted : 20 January 2013 20:39:10(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Hi Dok,all,

>I now have some isopropyl alcohol on the way, it seems to be the safest & best suited for the track cleaning. I should be able to get an update to that in couple of days.<

If you didn't click on the link I provided,.....never mind,...Glare

>About cleaning the locos.. when you say "cleaning it completely", is there some pictures or something with basic guidelines for it? Because the Märklin service manual only shows about where to put more oil. Tongue I mean, what parts I should and can safely clean inside the loco? And what accessories should I use, I'm guessing that at least the isopropyl alcohol would be too heavy on anything inside the loco.<

Iso,or many other agents will NOT HARM the motor or the plastics!!!!!!!!Cursing

Clean the parts that m-o-v-e,the motor,gears,wheels,driver rods,.....make sure they are in-line,not bent,.....

All done. Dr D
Offline Nightowl4933  
#16 Posted : 20 January 2013 20:47:37(UTC)
Nightowl4933

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/02/2008(UTC)
Posts: 972
Location: North Wiltshire
Hi Dok,

You may also need to think about adding power connections strategically around to oval. I use Z Scale and have found they run better with a power track every metre or so, although it depends on how complex the layout is. I've got one each side of the station and shadow station areas, just to give a bit of a power boost, and at regular intervals throughout the track.

I think it might be prudent to set up a really small loop, taking extra special care to ensure the track is connected properly and the wiring from the controller is all the strands of the cable. Also, be aware that it's really easy to poke the cable too far through the connectors on the controller, which could affect the connectivity. I'd have a look at these things before you start poking around in the motor or oiling everything.

I can't see the turnouts affecting the running of the loco if they're new, because the wiring to them is completely independent of the track power - other than they come from the same controller. The grey/yellow wires are constant voltage, whereas the brown/red are variable, depending on the position of the controller dial.

Good luck with it, and welcome to the forum!
Living on Earth is expensive, but it does include a free trip around the sun every year.
Z Scale is great - where's me glasses?
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Offline Dok-  
#17 Posted : 20 January 2013 20:52:51(UTC)
Dok-

Finland   
Joined: 19/01/2013(UTC)
Posts: 11
Originally Posted by: Heine Pedersen Go to Quoted Post
I think maybe your problem is a combination of dirt on the tracks and to much oil.

It is normal for a locomotive to be hot, but not very hot... But of course if you drive it in full speed for long it will be very hot anyway I guess... I have never tried that my self. Always run slow. :)

The best way to get rid of old oil is to take out the wheel axles and the gears between them and put them in the alcohol and use a tooth brush on them. That should be easy on the starter set loco, but don't try on the larger loco. It will only get you trouble with the sliders (or what they are called in english). Believe me, I have tried. ;)

Access to the gears is easy by removing the bottom plate. But pay attention to the couplers so they don't fall off. If they do the very small springs can be hard to find. Best is to remove them and put them with the springs in a safe place while cleaning the gears.

This shows how the loco is assembled: http://www.maerklin.de/s...1&artikelnummer=8800

Another question: Do the larger loco have lights? If so, is it still on when the loco stalls?


Big thanks, that's some really valuable information there about the loco cleaning! Btw, after I get my cleaning fluid and oil and can start the maintenance, can the same Labelle 108 oil be used on both; the oil maintenance hole described in the service book, plus the gears also? Or do the gears require different kind of texture from it? And is there any visible external signs which from I could figure if there is already excessive amounts (too much) of Märklin factory oil in?

About the lights, yes, but they are very very dim and don't come so clearly visible until the speed is set at least to 130-150. And that's already so fast, that the stalling is reduced to more random (it changes to more like variating uneven speeds with slighter stalling) and harder to catch if they're lit when the stalling occurs. I just run the loco at 100, and it's really hard to even notice that the loco actually has those 3 lights at all. To get them fully lit, the loco has to be running >180 (just tested).
Offline Dok-  
#18 Posted : 20 January 2013 21:00:24(UTC)
Dok-

Finland   
Joined: 19/01/2013(UTC)
Posts: 11
Originally Posted by: kbvrod Go to Quoted Post
Hi Dok,all,

>I now have some isopropyl alcohol on the way, it seems to be the safest & best suited for the track cleaning. I should be able to get an update to that in couple of days.<

If you didn't click on the link I provided,.....never mind,...Glare


Yes, I did. Smile Actually already yesterday, while I was going through another thread here, about track cleaning. But I need the cleaning fluid anyway; first to test and locate the problem, and if I would decide to apply No-Ox, I would still need the cleaning fluid in the process. So why the glare.. Smile

And thank you for the advices!
Offline Heine Pedersen  
#19 Posted : 20 January 2013 21:07:50(UTC)
Heine Pedersen


Joined: 03/03/2003(UTC)
Posts: 87
Location: ,
Originally Posted by: Dok- Go to Quoted Post

About the lights, yes, but they are very very dim and don't come so clearly visible until the speed is set at least to 130-150. And that's already so fast, that the stalling is reduced to more random (it changes to more like variating uneven speeds with slighter stalling) and harder to catch if they're lit when the stalling occurs. I just run the loco at 100, and it's really hard to even notice that the loco actually has those 3 lights at all. To get them fully lit, the loco has to be running >180 (just tested).


Try to run in the dark. :) If the light flickers it is dirty tracks... And you don't have to wait for the alcohol to clean it. I never use fluid on my tracks (but I will try the No-ox). I use a kind of rubber thing from NOCH. But if not at hand, I use a small piece of wood, cork or anything that is not to soft.

Offline Dok-  
#20 Posted : 20 January 2013 21:14:07(UTC)
Dok-

Finland   
Joined: 19/01/2013(UTC)
Posts: 11
Originally Posted by: Nightowl4933 Go to Quoted Post
Hi Dok,

You may also need to think about adding power connections strategically around to oval. I use Z Scale and have found they run better with a power track every metre or so, although it depends on how complex the layout is. I've got one each side of the station and shadow station areas, just to give a bit of a power boost, and at regular intervals throughout the track.

I think it might be prudent to set up a really small loop, taking extra special care to ensure the track is connected properly and the wiring from the controller is all the strands of the cable. Also, be aware that it's really easy to poke the cable too far through the connectors on the controller, which could affect the connectivity. I'd have a look at these things before you start poking around in the motor or oiling everything.



Thanks, I've now double checked the wirings once more, but they're all firmly attached, just as the track pieces on the layout. Coincidently, I was just thinking earlier today that adding an additional power track might be one good idea. But I don't think that it would make much diference yet at this point (as the oval is so small while doing these tests now). But certainly a priority when I can (hopefully) at some point continue building my layout.
Offline Dok-  
#21 Posted : 20 January 2013 21:24:15(UTC)
Dok-

Finland   
Joined: 19/01/2013(UTC)
Posts: 11
Originally Posted by: Heine Pedersen Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Dok- Go to Quoted Post

About the lights, yes, but they are very very dim and don't come so clearly visible until the speed is set at least to 130-150. And that's already so fast, that the stalling is reduced to more random (it changes to more like variating uneven speeds with slighter stalling) and harder to catch if they're lit when the stalling occurs. I just run the loco at 100, and it's really hard to even notice that the loco actually has those 3 lights at all. To get them fully lit, the loco has to be running >180 (just tested).


Try to run in the dark. :) If the light flickers it is dirty tracks... And you don't have to wait for the alcohol to clean it. I never use fluid on my tracks (but I will try the No-ox). I use a kind of rubber thing from NOCH. But if not at hand, I use a small piece of wood, cork or anything that is not to soft.



Just tested it once more. It was really hard to notice since even in dark room they're so dim and the loco is constantly on the move. But yes, they do go even more out when the stalling occurs. And (un)luckily the train also did that total stop at speed ~90, and the lights were instantly off.

Btw, can I ask what is the Noch part number for that "rubbery thing"? Sounds interestingly better than those more sandpaper kind of options.
Offline Heine Pedersen  
#22 Posted : 20 January 2013 21:27:59(UTC)
Heine Pedersen


Joined: 03/03/2003(UTC)
Posts: 87
Location: ,
Originally Posted by: Dok- Go to Quoted Post

Thanks, I've now double checked the wirings once more, but they're all firmly attached, just as the track pieces on the layout. Coincidently, I was just thinking earlier today that adding an additional power track might be one good idea. But I don't think that it would make much diference yet at this point (as the oval is so small while doing these tests now). But certainly a priority when I can (hopefully) at some point continue building my layout.


Yes, I dont think you should worry about that at this stage of testing. But on a permanent layout it is very important for stable operation in the long run. On my first Z-layout I have had to solder some joints after years of operation because they suddenly had bad connection. On a larger club layout am in on in N-scale, we are soldering a wire to every single piece of track!
Offline Heine Pedersen  
#23 Posted : 20 January 2013 21:38:04(UTC)
Heine Pedersen


Joined: 03/03/2003(UTC)
Posts: 87
Location: ,
Originally Posted by: Dok- Go to Quoted Post

Just tested it once more. It was really hard to notice since even in dark room they're so dim and the loco is constantly on the move. But yes, they do go even more out when the stalling occurs. And (un)luckily the train also did that total stop at speed ~90, and the lights were instantly off.

Btw, can I ask what is the Noch part number for that "rubbery thing"? Sounds interestingly better than those more sandpaper kind of options.


Definitely dirty tracks and/or wheels when the light is out. No doubt about that....

NOCH 60140

I can also recommend this for cleaning loco wheels: http://www.z-hightech.de...g=4&sprache=englisch
Offline hgk  
#24 Posted : 20 January 2013 22:32:32(UTC)
hgk


Joined: 10/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 455
Location: Pacific Ocean
Hi,
If it were mine and it's under warranty, I'd have nothing to lose by taking it in for repair and see what happens.
Mine are all from ebay so I have to deal with it myself.

As you already know the electrical system to the motor is made up of a lot of mechanical connections from the
transformer thru the tracks thru the lok wheels thru a spring tension pickup then to the motor itself and all
have to be very clean and very secure. As mentioned, sometimes it's just the weight of the lok being very light on the tracks,
or the combined loss thru all the track connections and the length of track, or the oil in the motor gears thickening up over time, or motor
brush and commutator wear all contributing to current losses to the motor.

The motor responds to the changes in voltage from the transformer by running faster or slower. As you slow it down you also lose
torque making it more succeptable to stuttering or stopping when running slower ie: less voltage=less current=less flux=less torque.
The motor controller in the video link you posted may have been a pulse type of control where you electronically power the motor
with full current pulses for very brief periods of time. That tends to keep the current at the max while varing the speed with the pulse
on/off time. That one looked home made but there may be commerical units available for purchase.

You've been given good suggestions by everyone as to what to look for so I just wanted to make you aware that these issues usually combine to
cause the stuttering and stopping especially with z scale where all these contact surfaces are very small.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by hgk
Offline Heine Pedersen  
#25 Posted : 20 January 2013 22:52:46(UTC)
Heine Pedersen


Joined: 03/03/2003(UTC)
Posts: 87
Location: ,
Originally Posted by: hgk Go to Quoted Post


Yes, it was this one: http://www.system-joerge...ibung-fahrregler-deluxe/

It is pulsing, have constant speed and slow acceleration and braking. Almost like a digital decoder outside the loco.

Offline Heine Pedersen  
#26 Posted : 20 January 2013 23:40:43(UTC)
Heine Pedersen


Joined: 03/03/2003(UTC)
Posts: 87
Location: ,
Here is how to clean a loco without taking it apart:


Found this on a German Z-forum.
Offline Dok-  
#27 Posted : 29 January 2013 20:54:03(UTC)
Dok-

Finland   
Joined: 19/01/2013(UTC)
Posts: 11
Updates.

I finally got the spare time and all the needs for thorough track cleaning. I used cotton swabs / q-tips, first doused in isopropanol, to rub the track surface. The q-tips got "pretty dirty", but I thought to see them get even more "black" from dirt.

Then I run the bigger loco, 88973, few rounds with a speeds little over ~100. After that "drive-in" I tried slowing the speed in steps, ~90 and ~70. The results were better than before, but the stuttering is still clearly there and notable. And doing some more of "warm-up / drive in" laps didn't improve the situation, it just revealed a wider view to the jerkyness and stalling. Some rounds go "pretty smoothly", but in most it seems like the loco is twitching itself forward - never going steady or smoothly. And then there were still those few times, that the loco just stopped, like the stalling would be too much for it to bear. It also got stuck 2 times so that the controller was unresponsive to the loco. I had to physically lift the loco from the track and then put it back before it would "woke up" again and start to take commands from the control unit. And sometimes even that didn't work on the first try.

Everything under the speed of ~70 is totally off, and the loco stops eventually, usually somewhere between "immediately" and "after 15cm of track".

So.. now the track is so clean that there's no spot that would leave a stain to a white cotton swab. The brand new loco, 88973, have not been runned no more than total of maybe 6-7 hours in these tests, and it has factory-clean wheels (although tried carefully cleaning them with a q-tip, but nothing came off), so it should run smoothly, or at least smoother than it does now. All the joints on the track layout were double-checked while I was cleaning them. All the wiring is checked again.

Also, the smaller loco (81569, from the starter set) really seems to be officially dead now. As I mentioned on my earlier post, it had became very unstable responsing to controls at all. Now it "doesn't even try", there's no sound, no twitch, no microscopical movement - even when looking it without its top casing. I tried numerous times to get it running again, but it just sits on the track totally unresponsive.

I'm now uploading couple of videos I took while making tests on the clean track, I'll update the links to this post as soon as ready.

And again, this thread and community help has been a huge aid, so many thanks to all the helpful people for that! Smile All tips and advices are still welcome, but I'm really starting to think that it's best to send the kits back, as they're new and they should work and function properly.

[UPDATED]
Links to video clips:

<< Video 1 >> Running forward, for this clip it actually went the laps without the worst of the stalling, but if you keep audio up and look closely, the continuous twitching movement can be seen (and heard) as the loco moves. Could be seen better if my had would act as more solid stand for the camera.. RollEyes

<< Video 2 >> Running the loco backwards, the base noise it makes is multiplied, it's actually quite loud whirring noise when the loco moves. A short clip, catching first a lot of stalling and then ending to one of the 'unresponsive to control' -situations that occurs.

<< Video 3 >> Running the loco backwards again. In this clip the unsteady running, twitches and judder is much again visible and easy to spot.

<< Video 4 >> More of the unstable running. See next and the last video for what happened in about 5seconds after I stopped filming this clip..

<< Video 5 >> .. and resulting a stuck stop again. As a side note; although it might appear like a pattern that in these clips the train seems to always stuck near the power input track / on the same straight portion of the track, it's not. It does that randomly on the whole track area.

Edited by user 30 January 2013 12:01:19(UTC)  | Reason: More updates

Offline kbvrod  
#28 Posted : 29 January 2013 21:48:06(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Hi all,
A small update on this end,yesterday I took apart,cleaned a 30/40 year old M BR 103,which never saw maintenance,which sputtered a lot for good reason.
I soaked it in Iso for about 30 minitues,then gently scrubbed it with an old soft toothbrush/pipe cleaners.Rinsed it with distilled water.Shook it out,then used a combination of a hair dyer air brush to remove/dry out the water.Repeat and let dry in a warm place(warm,not volcanic!Smile )
Next: small amounts of grease was applied to the gears and where this was not possible,oil(not M!!!) With the shell/body off,I cleaned the wheels*) then I applied power to the wheels to distribute the lubrication to the parts.Then I set up a test track(cleaned) and ran the lok back and forth.It 'broke' better with each run.Next,I applied No-Ox to the rails(see my post on this product) and continued the run.It now runs better than a *new* BR 74 with a 5-pole motor!

* If you read and understand the No-Ox concept,good,some seem to miss that in all scales the wheels need to be cleaned and treated too!

Dr D
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