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Offline Martin T  
#1 Posted : 03 January 2013 20:16:43(UTC)
Martin T

Sweden   
Joined: 02/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 872
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Hi!

One thing has been bugging me since I started building MRR over 10 years ago.
I have all the gear, airbrush, grinded acryllic chalks and Humbrol collection, but seem NOT to find a good process to make the tunnel portals look good (or rather professionally worn, dirty and bad looking). Angry

Have you got an good process, or guide, or tutorial how to make it "look right"?
Please help me by posting it here.

Me - Frustrated
Regards / Martin T
Click your way over to me in Marbrodal in Sweden: http://www.xn--mrklintg-0zaq.se/index_e.html
Offline kbvrod  
#2 Posted : 03 January 2013 21:05:13(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Hi Martin,all,
Well,....remember you talking about years of weathering and not just the weather!Stones used,area,erosion,growth,care,etc,...
First determine if the base color of the model tunnel portal is the *right* color for you.
Next,use a black wash to deepen the shadows of the portal and give an overall dirty look.
Also,some other washes,or paint can discolor certain stones(at random) as they will,over time.
Use chalks to further the effects.
Coat with a matte finish.
Add,vegetation!Laugh
This can all be done at the work bench and then the portal can be placed on the layout.
Please ask more questions,...

Dr D
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by kbvrod
Offline kariosls37  
#3 Posted : 03 January 2013 21:08:34(UTC)
kariosls37

New Zealand   
Joined: 02/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,067
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
First of all you need to paint the portal in the "base colour" I.e. a brick colour to match the photo. Then I tend to use either the base colour mixed with lighter browns and black or to use washes of thoose colours to paint induvidual stones or groups slightly darker, and others slightly lighter.

Once everything is dry give the whole thing a wash with black to highlight the mortar and to age the bricks un-evenness is good, but don't make it too uneven.
Leave to dry again and afterwards come in with dark and light green to drybrush some patches lightly to simulate moss. Try to think logically where moss would grow(damp, darker spots) and try to match photos. Try to build the colour up in light coats to prevent overshooting.

If you want a stone portal simply replace the brick colour with stone colour, the same principles apply.

Cheers,
Rick
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Offline kbvrod  
#4 Posted : 03 January 2013 21:13:51(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Originally Posted by: kariosls37 Go to Quoted Post
First of all you need to paint the portal in the "base colour" I.e. a brick colour to match the photo. Then I tend to use either the base colour mixed with lighter browns and black or to use washes of thoose colours to paint induvidual stones or groups slightly darker, and others slightly lighter.

Once everything is dry give the whole thing a wash with black to highlight the mortar and to age the bricks un-evenness is good, but don't make it too uneven.
Leave to dry again and afterwards come in with dark and light green to drybrush some patches lightly to simulate moss. Try to think logically where moss would grow(damp, darker spots) and try to match photos. Try to build the colour up in light coats to prevent overshooting.

If you want a stone portal simply replace the brick colour with stone colour, the same principles apply.

Cheers,
Rick



The model portal doesn't match the the prototype,....Glare

Offline kariosls37  
#5 Posted : 03 January 2013 21:26:38(UTC)
kariosls37

New Zealand   
Joined: 02/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,067
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
As the photo is provided as an example of how Martin wants his portal to look I'm assuming he is going to want to have his portal match the photograph...Wink Plus, who says me must paint it a stone colour...
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Offline Martin T  
#6 Posted : 03 January 2013 21:38:23(UTC)
Martin T

Sweden   
Joined: 02/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 872
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Hi!

Thank you for replying so quick!
Okey. I think I don't want the brick base color since it's not so "Swedish", but go more towards a granite type stone colour.

Dr:D, I love working with grinded chalks and have good experience with that weathering the rolling stock.
Can you please expand a bit of how you would work it?

A possible workflow the painting type process would be:
1) Airbrush portal in suitable base color. Suggestion: Poly Scale Undercoat Light Gray 414134 blended with a drop of Sand 414302.
2) Paint individual bricks with blends of the above colors with slight but various amounts of black.
3) Paint the entire portal with highly deluted black wash. Possible using a sponge.
4) Paint with brush dark- and light green patches to simulate moss.

What do you say?
Should I give this a go, or ?

Hey.. Another question once talking airbrush.. I sometimes (always) Glare have problems with the airbrush gets jammed by dried color during use.
In my world coming from carpaint I need a slower thinner. However, here it's water.. What to do?
How much water do you add when using Poly Scale in the airbrush?

PS. Sorry for editing this insert a 100 times.. It's me.. I always redo things a 100 times.. Razz DS.
Regards / Martin T
Click your way over to me in Marbrodal in Sweden: http://www.xn--mrklintg-0zaq.se/index_e.html
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Martin T
Offline kbvrod  
#7 Posted : 03 January 2013 21:43:32(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Originally Posted by: kariosls37 Go to Quoted Post
As the photo is provided as an example of how Martin wants his portal to look I'm assuming he is going to want to have his portal match the photograph...Wink Plus, who says me must paint it a stone colour...


Hi Rick,all,
Well bricks are not that big and most portals are stone,unless concrete,....BigGrin

Dr D
Offline kbvrod  
#8 Posted : 03 January 2013 22:10:47(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Hi Martin all,

> but go more towards a granite type stone colour.<

OK,good choice!Smile

>A possible workflow is:
1) Airbrush portal in suitable base color. Suggestion: Poly Scale Undercoat Light Gray 414134 blended with a drop of Sand 414302.
2) Paint individual bricks with blends of the above colors with slight but various amounts of black.
3) Paint the entire portal with highly deluted black wash. Possible using a sponge.
4) Paint with brush dark- and light green patches to simulate moss.<

Martin,the portal you holding,is the portal?If it is there is nothing wrong with that color representing granite.
2/3-reverse that,use a black wash,this can be anything from diluted paint to India ink,the problem is finding a 'wetting' agent so the surface tension is reduced to the bare minimum,so that it can easily flow over the surface.It can be iso alcohol,soap for washing dishes,to windshield fluid/glass cleaner(!) It depends what you can get,...
4-that will work,but for vines using some scenery material(foam/leaf) can give more relief for a better effect,...
x


>Hey.. Another question once talking airbrush.. I sometimes (always) Glare have problems with the airbrush gets jammed by dried color during use.
In my world coming from carpaint I need a slower thinner. However, here it's water.. What to do?
How much water do you add when using Poly Scale in the airbrush?<

PolyScale is a latex based paint,always(has) a problem,as it was meant to dry quickly,hence clogging the micro tip of an airbrush.Again a wetting agent helps,also thinner( a LOT!) through the air brush,and having a tub of the stuff to soak the tip helps.This is why,acrylics have replaced latex based paints and why I will air brush solvent based paints.

Dr D

thanks 1 user liked this useful post by kbvrod
Offline Goofy  
#9 Posted : 05 January 2013 08:28:45(UTC)
Goofy


Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 8,993
I use first an baseground colour like lightgrey or neutral grey to paint on the wall or tunnel.
When the colour did dried...i start to dirty with chocolate colour by thinned it with specialthinner for colour.
Dry of chocolate colour with clean cotton dress like an old t-shirt.
Now you can see more realism colour with dirt on the wall.
if you want some moss on the wall...i suggest green colour powder to brush on the wall.
Or dark green colour mixed with thinner...but don´t paint too much with green colour on the wall...just slightly and gentle.
You can also use dark green fine turf from Woodland Scenics to add as moss and later with foliage on the wall.
H0
DCC = Digital Command Control
Offline Martin T  
#10 Posted : 14 January 2013 19:53:00(UTC)
Martin T

Sweden   
Joined: 02/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 872
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
"PolyScale is a latex based paint,always(has) a problem,as it was meant to dry quickly,hence clogging the micro tip of an airbrush.Again a wetting agent helps,also thinner( a LOT!) through the air brush,and having a tub of the stuff to soak the tip helps.This is why,acrylics have replaced latex based paints and why I will air brush solvent based paints."

I've always used Pollyscale.. For no special reason really.. Can you guide me to a better alternative?
Regards / Martin T
Click your way over to me in Marbrodal in Sweden: http://www.xn--mrklintg-0zaq.se/index_e.html
Offline Goofy  
#11 Posted : 14 January 2013 20:22:08(UTC)
Goofy


Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 8,993
I also use Poly scale colour on my layout.
I use "dirt" on my rails and it looks great! ThumpUp
There is an colour name "roof brown" and i think that will been great too by dirty on the walls like tunnel portals.
But try first with "dirt" mixed with thinner and dirt on the wall.
Make sure first to paint yours tunnel portal in grey colour as baseground before dirt.
H0
DCC = Digital Command Control
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