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Offline perz  
#1 Posted : 25 October 2012 01:19:36(UTC)
perz

Sweden   
Joined: 12/01/2002(UTC)
Posts: 2,578
Location: Sweden
On our company layout, we first used Märklin close couplers, but we experienced occational decouplings. So we changed to Fleischmann couplers. These worked flawlessly for some time, but now they have started to occationally uncouple too. We have thought of changing to fixed couplers, but this will make it difficult to separate the train when we need to service the loco.

The train on the layout runs unattended, so we need something that is very reliable.

Are there any NEM couplers that are absolutely fail-safe and still easy to decouple when needed?
Offline mike c  
#2 Posted : 25 October 2012 02:17:22(UTC)
mike c

Canada   
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC)
Posts: 8,271
Location: Montreal, QC
The Roco close couplers have a notorious habit of uncoupling at the start/end of inclines/descents. The Maerklin couplings are better, but can open if the little tongue on the bottom contacts the centre studs. The Roco Universal close coupler has a similar design to the Maerklin one. I find them more resistant to manual uncoupling than the Maerklin ones. The Fleischmann profi couplers seem pretty good, but likely have similar flaws to the Roco close coupler.
Have you considered trying the NEM version of US Kadee couplers? You could also try using fixed couplers for every pair of coaches/cars, which will lessen the risk, while still leaving the consist capable of being easily uncoupled.

If you find a spot where the train uncouples, look for signs that the foot of the coupling is touching the centre rail stud, or for a change in incline of the rails. In many cases, the coupling problem can be alleviated by reducing the incline at that spot.

regards

Mike C
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by mike c
Offline Mark5  
#3 Posted : 25 October 2012 05:56:25(UTC)
Mark5

Canada   
Joined: 29/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,422
Location: Montreal, Canada
Originally Posted by: mike c Go to Quoted Post
....

If you find a spot where the train uncouples, look for signs that the foot of the coupling is touching the centre rail stud, or for a change in incline of the rails. In many cases, the coupling problem can be alleviated by reducing the incline at that spot.


Exactly. I just changed a very small incline the other day and solved this problem.
Also checking the older Relex Marklin couplers with the classic metal gauge Marklin 7001 and adjusting them with a needle-nose pliers goes a long ways to getting them to operate optimally.

The one thing I never understood until I read the other week on the posts about the position of uncoupling tracks in the layout was the use and function of just how the coupling "stay open" when pushed. It was a revelation to me that after all these years, I had never really used my trains in this way and also never understood why people used so few uncoupling units/tracks on their layouts.
Now I know. BigGrin

Always happy to glean the wisdom from the boys at the forum.

OT (My girls laugh at me when I talk about "the boys at the forum" ... this euphemism has now been shortened to "I'll have to ask the boys" when I have a question. And I still have lots!)

Mark

ps. I have just locally acquired a sizable cookie tin of mostly Fleishman couplers.
I will have to take photos to ID the different types. Any guides of this sort online somewhere?

DB DR FS NS SNCF c. 1950-65, fan of station architecture esp. from 1920-70.
In single point perspective, where do track lines meet?
Offline kariosls37  
#4 Posted : 25 October 2012 06:20:51(UTC)
kariosls37

New Zealand   
Joined: 02/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,067
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
I find Kadee couplers are generally very reliable, In shunting my 2-rail layout I have not had any trouble with them. However, Care needs to be taken that the steel pins on the bottom of the couplers clear the contact studs on Marklin points. With light wagons it can be very spectacular to watch a wagon being launched into the air after a trip pin catches on a contact stud... After adjustment they should be fine.

The advantages are that they couple very lightly, so you don't have to ram the wagon at a scale 50km/h to couple up. They uncouple with a magnet under the track, which means they are not compatible with the Marklin uncoupling tracks. However, using kitchen cabinet door magnets you can put an uncoupler pretty much anywhere you like. Wagons can be easily lifted out of a consist like with the Fleischmann close couplers, which could be handy.

Disadvantages are that they are not as available in Europe as the European brands, they uncouple when the grade changes drastically like Fleischmann couplers. They are also not true close couplers so there may be a gap between wagons.

Kadee couplers for wagons with NEM shafts are #16, #17 and #18 (short, medium and long respectively). I am not too bothered by the gaps between wagons so I tend to just use the #18's because they will work on anything

Cheers,
Rick
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by kariosls37
Offline river6109  
#5 Posted : 25 October 2012 07:14:01(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,881
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Perz,

the latest Roco couplers I find the most reliable ones, they hook in on both sides.
as you most probably know, I use long trains and they are quite heavy to pull, for heavy trains (e.g. up to 60 loaded iron ore carraiges I find the older metal coupling the best because there is so much weight the couplers do not uncouple, I can't say this about Fleischmann (profi couplings ?) or the slim version Roco coupling, as Mike indicated on declines my experience was in curves (Fleischmann & Roco).
Whether or not you could increase the weight within the carriages which would make it harder to pull them therefore the coupling would not sit loose between carriages.
another option you may have to bend back the hook slightly but this doesn't make much difference if you have bumps in or on the track (m-track)

there are what you could call fixed couplers you can't uncouple carriages but the bar (prototypical) can be pushed in on both sides into the coupling shaft.

there are also other couplings available which work with a decoder, whereas the coupling uncouples automatically via a decoder function. (quite expensive)

regards.,

John



https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline H0  
#6 Posted : 25 October 2012 07:52:34(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,488
Location: DE-NW
Hi!
Originally Posted by: mike c Go to Quoted Post
The Roco close couplers have a notorious habit of uncoupling at the start/end of inclines/descents.
If inclines are not laid carefully. No problem if they start/end smoothly.

Besides Close Coupler and Universal Coupler, Roco also offer another coupler: the imitation of the automatic prototype coupler. It has no moving parts, but plastic hooks that snap in with a click. No automatic uncoupling possible, but I presume they would be rather good for a layout with permanent operation. Number is Roco 40376 for a bag of two. Trains can still be uncoupled by hand for maintenance.

IMHO the Roco Universal Coupler is more reliable than the Märklin Close Coupler. With the latter, the metal loop does not always move freely. Sometimes you have a pair that will always uncouple - if you swap two cars or turn one car around, the problem is solved.
Never had this sort of problem with the Universal Coupler.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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Offline perz  
#7 Posted : 30 October 2012 22:47:46(UTC)
perz

Sweden   
Joined: 12/01/2002(UTC)
Posts: 2,578
Location: Sweden
Thank you all for your input. This will give us some ideas to test. Especially the Roco 40376 looks promising from a reliability point of view, although I think they look a bit bulky. The Kadee NEM couplers may also be worth testing. For the moment we have secured the Fleischmann couplers with small rubber rings. This works but it is difficult to separate the train if needed.
Offline hxmiesa  
#8 Posted : 31 October 2012 16:56:47(UTC)
hxmiesa

Spain   
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,613
Location: Spain
You can probably use fixed couplings between the waggons, and then a magnet between loc and consist. Yes, the idea is from Lego-trains... ;-)
Best regards
Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain")
http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
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