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Offline Chris Vella  
#1 Posted : 13 March 2005 08:59:22(UTC)
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Chris Vella


Joined: 12/06/2003(UTC)
Posts: 275
Location: Malta
I was sorting out some old M* boxes and found a brand new c80 6080 (I guess my intentions where always to go digital biggrin) but no instructions with the decoder. So can someone confirm that-

Red = pickup
Brown = ground
Green = field coil (brush plate side)
Blue = field coil (gear drive side)
Yellow = rear lights
Grey = front lights
Black = left brush

And what will convert the best LFCM, SFCM or DCM. Also is there a way to test decoder before installing only to find out that it is no good.

Regards to all
Chris
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Offline Lars Westerlind  
#2 Posted : 13 March 2005 10:42:28(UTC)
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Lars Westerlind


Joined: 19/10/2001(UTC)
Posts: 2,379
Location: Lindome, Sweden
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Chris Vella
<br />I was sorting out some old M* boxes and found a brand new c80 6080 (I guess my intentions where always to go digital biggrin) but no instructions with the decoder. So can someone confirm that-

Red = pickup
Brown = ground
Green = field coil (brush plate side)
Blue = field coil (gear drive side)
Yellow = rear lights
Grey = front lights
Black = left brush

And what will convert the best LFCM, SFCM or DCM. Also is there a way to test decoder before installing only to find out that it is no good.

Regards to all
Chris

Seems correct,
I don't know which is which of blue-green, nor grey-yellow, which doesn't matter much. AFAIR there has been differences between locos, os you'll have to connect the motor first, check the direction, and then connect the lamps.

Testing? Use a lamp between green-black, and between blue-black (and possibly yellow-brown, grey-brown).

But this decoder IMHO is no good compared to modern standards. It's usable with any motor with field coil, but gives a rather poor result.

/lars
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Offline Sander van Wijk  
#3 Posted : 13 March 2005 13:23:28(UTC)
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Sander van Wijk

Netherlands   
Joined: 20/04/2003(UTC)
Posts: 2,248
Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands; Göteborg, Sverige,
Hi, it seems correct... The only thing I can add to the reply of Lars' is that usually the grey wire is for front lights and the yellow one for the rear lights.

Driving characteristics are rather poor, but maybe suitable to convert a loco which is barely used or worth buying a new decoder... wink
Sander
---
Era I(b): K.Bay.Sts.B. and K.W.St.E.
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Offline jorge_vilarrubi  
#4 Posted : 13 March 2005 14:22:09(UTC)
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jorge_vilarrubi


Joined: 15/12/2003(UTC)
Posts: 655
Location: Buenos Aires,
Hello, Sander is right, grey is forward light. After connecting the green and blue wires to the motor, gray to forward linght and yellow to rear light, if the direction of travel doesn´t match that of the lights, both green and blue wires need to be switched.
The best use of a 6080 is a Lok with LFCM, however it has no load control, low PWM frequency and no inertia.
Regards,
Jorge Vilarrubí
Buenos Aires
ARGENTINA
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Offline Lars Westerlind  
#5 Posted : 13 March 2005 22:06:37(UTC)
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Lars Westerlind


Joined: 19/10/2001(UTC)
Posts: 2,379
Location: Lindome, Sweden
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by jorge_vilarrubi
<br />Hello, Sander is right, grey is forward light. After connecting the green and blue wires to the motor, gray to forward linght and yellow to rear light, if the direction of travel doesn´t match that of the lights, both green and blue wires need to be switched.
The best use of a 6080 is a Lok with LFCM, however it has no load control, low PWM frequency and no inertia.
Regards,

This way is more correct, and will give better chance that the train will start in the expected direction. But remember, the decoder doesn't get any direction info in the commands, and has less memory than new decoders (during power down), so I guess it won't matter if you change the motor cables or the lamp cables. My suggestion means that you don't need to desolder anything.
Regards,
Lars
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Offline Chris Vella  
#6 Posted : 14 March 2005 08:03:14(UTC)
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Chris Vella


Joined: 12/06/2003(UTC)
Posts: 275
Location: Malta
Thanks guys for you replies. I know that 6080 drives badly but just to use it on some old basic loco like shunter 3141 DB 260 instead of leaving it in a box.

Lars I will try your test method before going through the whole process of installing the decoder.

Thank you all againbiggrin

Chris
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Offline Chris Vella  
#7 Posted : 24 March 2005 09:34:37(UTC)
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Chris Vella


Joined: 12/06/2003(UTC)
Posts: 275
Location: Malta
Hi All,

I am over the moon just finished my first conversion to digital on item 3141 shunter 260biggrin. Decoder used is the old 3080. As was said and expected driving is not so good but did notice one strange thing that wheeles and connecting rod sparke when in motion. Does anyone know what this could be.

The feeling is so good when you see a loco that you converted running, I think I will convert more (with better decoders)

Cheers
Chris
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Offline Gregor  
#8 Posted : 24 March 2005 12:54:45(UTC)
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Gregor

Netherlands   
Joined: 17/04/2003(UTC)
Posts: 997
Location: Netherlands
Conversion indeed is fun! During my first conversion I was afraid that I would somehow violate the character of the 40+ year analog loc, but the opposite was true, it was like a rejuvenation!

As for the sparks, there has been a topic on whether or not digital current tends to spark more than analog, but I forgot the outcome. Would seem like bad conductivity. Where do the sparks occur, between wheels and rails or between wheels and housing ?

Gregor
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Offline jorge_vilarrubi  
#9 Posted : 24 March 2005 14:20:01(UTC)
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jorge_vilarrubi


Joined: 15/12/2003(UTC)
Posts: 655
Location: Buenos Aires,
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Chris Vella
<br /> one strange thing that wheeles and connecting rod sparke when in motion.

Hi Chris, those old 260s have two rubber rings in the rear axle, the newer ones having only one.
The Lok is very light and the front axle tends to loss contact with the rails when traveling in the forward direction. This effect is less noticeable when running backwards.
My solution is very similar to that of Märklin.
I dismount both center and rear wheels with no gear, take the rubber ring out and install the wheels in the reverse order, that is, the one having the carved ring at the center, without the rubber ring.
You need to make a thread in the hole of the (originally) center wheel in order to put there the rod's screw.
After this modification, the Lok will take ground from 3 wheels instead of 2 and this will help to reduce sparking.
Hope this is understandable, if not, please let me know.
Have fun!
Best regards,
Jorge Vilarrubí
Buenos Aires
ARGENTINA
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Offline Chris Vella  
#10 Posted : 26 March 2005 08:38:11(UTC)
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Chris Vella


Joined: 12/06/2003(UTC)
Posts: 275
Location: Malta
Dont know if this was the solution but after attaching two niose condensers from both brushes to chassis sparking has stopped. can this be.

Anyway I also have a 60904 that is probably going into item 3322 E194.A slightly more challenging coversion. Will let you all know when it is done.

Oh Happy Easter to all of youCool

Chris
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