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Offline Joseph Meiring  
#1 Posted : 23 September 2012 18:56:48(UTC)
Joseph Meiring

South Africa   
Joined: 27/12/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,157
Location: Western Cape Cape Town
Can 40 hrs go by so quickly!!... Have had my Norwegian steamer (37158) since June this year, and suddenly today, the most horrific squealing and groaning noises were emitted at medium speeds! Quickly gave the gears/wheels some oil, but still the noise persisted. So took off the boiler and followed the instruction sheet - a drop on each side of that shaft, and hey presto noise gone! Runs as beautifully as before.BigGrin
Only prob is the excess oil on the wheels and gears...darnAngry ....have never learnt to give only ONE drop-or even 1/2 a drop!! So, spent a while with the loco in the "cradle" and running the motor at low speed, while wiping away the excess oil.....
Upon reflection, having the loco now for 3 months, and running it almost every day, I suppose 40 hrs is long goneBlushing
So, better get down to some serious servicing of all the other locos soon- altho i see trix grease 66626 must be used in certain locos?
(Or do I rather wait for "noises" first - I'm afraid of over oiling!)
Joe
Offline petestra  
#2 Posted : 23 September 2012 19:45:22(UTC)
petestra

United States   
Joined: 27/07/2009(UTC)
Posts: 5,694
Location: Leesburg,VA.USA
Hi Joe, I've found that my Loks need oiling way before 40 hours. My layout has lots of hills so
I think that's the cause. Cheers,PeterSmile
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Offline kbvrod  
#3 Posted : 23 September 2012 22:31:20(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Hi all,
Joe,if your running loks and wearing out the oil,bless you.Your my hero!BigGrin

Now,....
1) What oil are you using?
2)Where? Most instructions are wrong.Two Roco BR 57 I am working on say I should oil parts of the drive rodsConfused What?
3) Over-oiling is a problem.
4) Even M said to oil axle points in some of the rolling stock.With their lousy viscosity,where did they think this oil was suppose to go?

Now,most modern loks, I have seen and from others I have talked to about the problem,there is now a mixture of both a high quality oil and grease as a long term solution for maintenance of loks.Don't forget the transmission can be a problem as well.

Dr D
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Online H0  
#4 Posted : 23 September 2012 23:02:45(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 13,927
Location: DE-NW
Hi!
Originally Posted by: Joe Meiring Go to Quoted Post
altho i see trix grease 66626 must be used in certain locos?
(Or do I rather wait for "noises" first - I'm afraid of over oiling!)Joe
Please note that the grease interval is 20 hours for some Märklin locos.
I’m afraid there won’t be noise from the worm drive until it’s too late (FUBAR).

With modern locos from Märklin and Roco the rods actually drive the wheels. Therefore IMHO some lubrication is required there.

Oil on the collector can ruin the motor, oil on the traction tyres can ruin the tractive effort. Too much oil can do harm, too little oil increases wear.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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Offline Joseph Meiring  
#5 Posted : 24 September 2012 11:10:47(UTC)
Joseph Meiring

South Africa   
Joined: 27/12/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,157
Location: Western Cape Cape Town
Thanks Peter, Dr D, and Tom - well, it seems I better not run some locos until I get 66626 grease this week! I noticed now that indeed 20 hrs is specified Tom - gone way beyond that I reckon on some of the steamers and my blue diesel 39302....darn....
I use Labelle 108, but don't have any grease at hand!! Was wondering about the rods, as the M booklet for 37158 actually shows the rods are to be oiled....?
Thanks guys for all the help!!!
Joe

Offline river6109  
#6 Posted : 24 September 2012 12:56:33(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 13,361
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Joe and other members,

To eliminate oiling of the shaft there is one solution: ballbearings on both sides.

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline Lollo  
#7 Posted : 24 September 2012 13:05:41(UTC)
Lollo

New Zealand   
Joined: 22/06/2009(UTC)
Posts: 365
Hi Joe,

I have found with my loks with the DCM motor, is most of the noise comes from the armature shafts running dry. These need regular checking & oiling long before 40 hrs. I use Labelle oils, and I oil all moving parts in the drive train, that includes the drive rods.
I have just started fitting bearings to my motors, and now most run whisper quite, and no need to lube the armature shafts any more.
I have 3 different Labelle oils, light, medium & a gear oil.

Cheers,
Brian.
Brian
Yaasan's Desktop Station/Railuino & Marklin MS2, DB Era III/IV Diesel & Steam, ESU Loksound/Lokpilot & Lokprogrammer, Marklin mSD, Tam Valley Depot Octopus III Servo Controller.
Offline arconell  
#8 Posted : 29 September 2012 12:21:26(UTC)
arconell


Joined: 27/07/2010(UTC)
Posts: 174
Location: Kreis Kleve, Germany
Hi All,

Actually I use grease instead of oil on the DCM and SFCM armature shafts. Not only does the lubrication last much longer but grease also reduces the risk of contaminating the collector. For lubrication of gears etc. I do use oil.

Regards, Robert
User is suspended until 30/01/2021 11:18:10(UTC) Goofy  
#9 Posted : 29 September 2012 15:25:01(UTC)
Goofy


Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 8,331
Originally Posted by: Joe Meiring Go to Quoted Post
Can 40 hrs go by so quickly!!... Have had my Norwegian steamer (37158) since June this year, and suddenly today, the most horrific squealing and groaning noises were emitted at medium speeds! Quickly gave the gears/wheels some oil, but still the noise persisted. So took off the boiler and followed the instruction sheet - a drop on each side of that shaft, and hey presto noise gone! Runs as beautifully as before.BigGrin
Only prob is the excess oil on the wheels and gears...darnAngry ....have never learnt to give only ONE drop-or even 1/2 a drop!! So, spent a while with the loco in the "cradle" and running the motor at low speed, while wiping away the excess oil.....
Upon reflection, having the loco now for 3 months, and running it almost every day, I suppose 40 hrs is long goneBlushing
So, better get down to some serious servicing of all the other locos soon- altho i see trix grease 66626 must be used in certain locos?
(Or do I rather wait for "noises" first - I'm afraid of over oiling!)
Joe


You spend to many hours of driving Marklin...! Wink
Approuch between 20-40 hours before oil next time is good for Marklin loco.

Offline BrandonVA  
#10 Posted : 01 October 2012 21:50:41(UTC)
BrandonVA

United States   
Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,533
Location: VA
Originally Posted by: arconell Go to Quoted Post
Hi All,

Actually I use grease instead of oil on the DCM and SFCM armature shafts. Not only does the lubrication last much longer but grease also reduces the risk of contaminating the collector. For lubrication of gears etc. I do use oil.

Regards, Robert


Robert,

Interesting, what kind of grease (or weight) do you use?

-Brandon
Offline arconell  
#11 Posted : 02 October 2012 01:13:37(UTC)
arconell


Joined: 27/07/2010(UTC)
Posts: 174
Location: Kreis Kleve, Germany
Originally Posted by: BrandonVA Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: arconell Go to Quoted Post
Hi All,

Actually I use grease instead of oil on the DCM and SFCM armature shafts. Not only does the lubrication last much longer but grease also reduces the risk of contaminating the collector. For lubrication of gears etc. I do use oil.

Regards, Robert


Robert,

Interesting, what kind of grease (or weight) do you use?

-Brandon


Hi Brandon,

It is a multi purpose grease, Nigrin Mehrzweck Fett, specifically for "long lasting lubrication of high rev plain and bush bearings in machinery". As for the specs, it fulfills DIN 51802 and 51625 part 2, class 2 if that means anything to you. It doesn't to me at this point.
It is produced by Nigrin in Germany, www.nigrin.de. It comes in a plastic tube of 250 ml, which will last me and my loco´s well into the next century...for all of 3 Euro at the hardware store car accessory department among the lubes, car shines, cleaners and wiper blades. I'm sure you'll find something very similar at your local hardware store. It works a dream on my DCM´s and SFCM´s. Quiets them down quite a bit.

Regards, Robert

PS: If all else fails many Märklin and MRR shops also on the Internet will sell B52 Fett (Grease) which is most likely the same or equivalent stuff sold in minute quantities at, well, extremely high prices...

Offline BrandonVA  
#12 Posted : 02 October 2012 19:18:42(UTC)
BrandonVA

United States   
Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,533
Location: VA
Robert,

Thanks so much for such detailed information! Unfortunately the specifications do not mean much, but I looked up the grease. I think this is similar (or the same) as white lithium grease, which is often used for metal on plastic types of contact. Is this grease a sort of white colour?

Thanks

-Brandon
Offline arconell  
#13 Posted : 02 October 2012 21:09:50(UTC)
arconell


Joined: 27/07/2010(UTC)
Posts: 174
Location: Kreis Kleve, Germany
Originally Posted by: BrandonVA Go to Quoted Post
Robert,

Thanks so much for such detailed information! Unfortunately the specifications do not mean much, but I looked up the grease. I think this is similar (or the same) as white lithium grease, which is often used for metal on plastic types of contact. Is this grease a sort of white colour?

Thanks

-Brandon


Hi Brandon,

Well, it is rather more colourless than white, or if you wish, whitish translucent. I did some more internet research and it is definitely a Lithium grease. As is the B52 grease by the way. I think this: http://www.timken.com/en...ges/MultiUseLithium.aspx
would come very close. In this part of the world we use EN (European) and when not available, DIN German Industry Standards. The (more or less) equivalent US ASTM standards are also quoted by Timken, and probably by other US manufacturers, so I think you can´t go wrong there. (I am familiar with a number of standards in electronics, appliance safety and power grid applications, but not with lubricant standards I´m afraid.

Regards, Robert
Offline kbvrod  
#14 Posted : 02 October 2012 21:16:48(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Offline BrandonVA  
#15 Posted : 02 October 2012 21:30:43(UTC)
BrandonVA

United States   
Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,533
Location: VA
Robert, Dr. D.

Thanks, that sounds about right. I am going to have to give it a try!

-Brandon
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Offline kbvrod  
#16 Posted : 02 October 2012 21:41:29(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Originally Posted by: BrandonVA Go to Quoted Post
Robert, Dr. D.
Thanks, that sounds about right. I am going to have to give it a try! -Brandon


Hi all,
Brandon,
When opening up Fl/Roco/Märklin/Trix loks(and many US models) grease seems to be the norm.
I can recomend Labelle:

http://www.con-cor.com/Labelle.html

And hob-E-Lube(Woodland Scenics):

http://woodlandscenics.woodland...egory/StandardHob-E-Lube

Might even have them at the local hobby shop!Wink

Dr D
Offline BrandonVA  
#17 Posted : 02 October 2012 21:59:29(UTC)
BrandonVA

United States   
Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,533
Location: VA
Thanks Dr. D. I may even get away with cleaning the track just a little less.
Offline redmarklin  
#18 Posted : 03 October 2012 05:13:45(UTC)
redmarklin

Australia   
Joined: 04/09/2012(UTC)
Posts: 10
Location: australind
i don't know if anyone else has tried it but i got myself a spraycan of canola oil and use this to oilthe moving parts
Offline Lollo  
#19 Posted : 03 October 2012 06:53:52(UTC)
Lollo

New Zealand   
Joined: 22/06/2009(UTC)
Posts: 365
Originally Posted by: redmarklin Go to Quoted Post
i don't know if anyone else has tried it but i got myself a spraycan of canola oil and use this to oilthe moving parts


I hope you are joking! perhaps you could toss it it with some noodles & fresh veg. Mmmmm, yum yum. :)

Brian.
Brian
Yaasan's Desktop Station/Railuino & Marklin MS2, DB Era III/IV Diesel & Steam, ESU Loksound/Lokpilot & Lokprogrammer, Marklin mSD, Tam Valley Depot Octopus III Servo Controller.
Offline arconell  
#20 Posted : 03 October 2012 10:00:09(UTC)
arconell


Joined: 27/07/2010(UTC)
Posts: 174
Location: Kreis Kleve, Germany
Originally Posted by: redmarklin Go to Quoted Post
i don't know if anyone else has tried it but i got myself a spraycan of canola oil and use this to oilthe moving parts


I would strongly advice against using canola-, sunflower-, palm- or indeed any other vegetable oil for lubrication purposes. I don´t know a whole lot about lubricants but this much I do know, veg. oils don´t provide any lubrication properties whatsoever! If you have an old, pre-common rail diesel car, by all means, put it in your tank but never in the sump!

Robert
Online H0  
#21 Posted : 03 October 2012 10:15:59(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 13,927
Location: DE-NW
Originally Posted by: arconell Go to Quoted Post
I would strongly advice against using canola-, sunflower-, palm- or indeed any other vegetable oil for lubrication purposes.
Butter wouldn't be better. I would not use any edible oil.
Canola oil or butter may work for squealing door hinges (or at least won't do much harm there), but loco motors and gears are completely different.

The small bottles and tubes sold by Märklin, Roco, Fleischmann, Faller and others are very expensive with respect to the small amounts they contain (you can get 500 ccm for the same amount), but the small bottles/tubes make application more easy.

I have Fleischmann oil and Roco grease.

I got the Fleischmann oil from a Märklin dealer who told me he would not sell the Märklin "motor glue", but said that Faller, Fleischmann, and Roco were all OK.
I picked Fleischmann because the bottle was similar to the Märklin oil 7199 I was used to.
AFAIK M* solved the "motor glue" problem years ago, but the bad reputation carries on.

So you're not on the safe side buying oil/grease from MRR companies - but still better than oil from food stores.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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Offline walters48  
#22 Posted : 04 October 2012 01:29:16(UTC)
walters48

United States   
Joined: 19/08/2009(UTC)
Posts: 199
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA

That Labelle piece was very interesting. I quess I'm "old school" because decades ago I was strictly admonished to never put oil on the brushes of any electric motor because it would short it out. For decades, I've been using Labelle 107 light oil for all my HO trains, both DC and AC, never knowing that it conducts electricity, and is therefore safe to use directly on the motor's brushes. Given my early training, I've been very careful to avoid getting or putting any oil on the brushes of any of my Marklin motors. Has anyone used Labelle 107 directly on the brushes of their Marklin loks? What was the outcome? Thanks,
-Chas
Online H0  
#23 Posted : 04 October 2012 08:01:38(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 13,927
Location: DE-NW
I would not use any oil (conducting or not) on the collector or brushes: the oil will bind the carbon dust, it will collect between the collector plates and the motor will get very hot and decoders without overload protection will let the magic smoke out.
This is what happens with standard oil. I presume conducting oil will make it worse.

Normally there is air (not conducting) between the collector plates. With conducting oil in between, the motor will not work as expected.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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User is suspended until 30/01/2021 11:18:10(UTC) Goofy  
#24 Posted : 05 October 2012 17:15:19(UTC)
Goofy


Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 8,331
This is what i use to oil locomotivs.

Goofy attached the following image(s):
DSC_0006.JPG
DSC_0007.JPG
DSC_0008.JPG
Offline sikardon  
#25 Posted : 09 October 2012 11:24:59(UTC)
sikardon

Indonesia   
Joined: 05/06/2012(UTC)
Posts: 169
Hello all,

I had the same problem. My newest loco Railpool 29450, just bought week ago from lackylok-frickenhausen, also making terrible sound. When I open the loco body, there is grease (I think, don't know what grease looks like :))) on the loco body (perhaps due to a long way shipping and a lot of shaking, the grease was jumping around :p). So I put back that grease on the propeller shaft. But the sound were still exist.

I don't have Marklin 7149 or Trix 66626 as mentioned in the manual. Actually, I never did that previously. My old loco, since mid 2011, are never given oil or grease :D but always runs smooth. I only have CRC 2-26 to lubricate my 74490 turnout mechanism. It's working on it, but don't know if it is working as well on loco. Anybody have try it? Is it okay? Any suggestion? The thing like white gel inside the loco, is it Trix 66626 grease :)) ?

Thanks

Cheers,
Sony
Offline kbvrod  
#26 Posted : 09 October 2012 14:38:08(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Hi Sony,all,

>I had the same problem. My newest loco Railpool 29450, just bought week ago from lackylok-frickenhausen, also making terrible sound. When I open the loco body, there is grease (I think, don't know what grease looks like :))) on the loco body (perhaps due to a long way shipping and a lot of shaking, the grease was jumping around :p). So I put back that grease on the propeller shaft. But the sound were still exist. <

IMO: manufactures at times add too much grease!I have seen this in a lot of loks,...
However,adding grease/oil will not(again my opinion) solve noise problems.This due to the gears(or motor)Have you tried 'breaking-in' the lok?I use these for that:

http://www.busch-model.com/onli...id=1800&sprach_id=en Wink

Dr D
Offline Joseph Meiring  
#27 Posted : 09 October 2012 17:25:26(UTC)
Joseph Meiring

South Africa   
Joined: 27/12/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,157
Location: Western Cape Cape Town
Originally Posted by: sikardon Go to Quoted Post
Hello all,

I had the same problem. My newest loco Railpool 29450, just bought week ago from lackylok-frickenhausen, also making terrible sound. When I open the loco body, there is grease (I think, don't know what grease looks like :))) on the loco body (perhaps due to a long way shipping and a lot of shaking, the grease was jumping around :p). So I put back that grease on the propeller shaft. But the sound were still exist.

I don't have Marklin 7149 or Trix 66626 as mentioned in the manual. Actually, I never did that previously. My old loco, since mid 2011, are never given oil or grease :D but always runs smooth. I only have CRC 2-26 to lubricate my 74490 turnout mechanism. It's working on it, but don't know if it is working as well on loco. Anybody have try it? Is it okay? Any suggestion? The thing like white gel inside the loco, is it Trix 66626 grease :)) ?

Thanks

Cheers,
Sony

Hi Sony I've had the 29450 since April this year. Its certainly not the quietest of units, but its not a "screeching" lack of lubricant sound that I had on my Norwegian steamer (37158) - which was immediately fixed with a few drops of Labelle 108 on the shaft & gears. The 29450 makes more of a metal "rumble" - don't know how to describe it exactly - almost the same as my old V200; but as the speed picks up the motor "noise" lessens dramatically.
I did open up the 29450, and applied a little Trix grease to the 2 points as indicated in the booklet - and a LITTLE oil on the wheels!! All is still OK.
Try and put some Trix grease right in the openings of the motors...on the worm itself.....maybe its totally dry??
Joe


Offline BrandonVA  
#28 Posted : 11 October 2012 22:15:13(UTC)
BrandonVA

United States   
Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,533
Location: VA
A couple of following questions:

Regarding models requiring grease:

-Newer models with screw drive sometimes call for 66626 grease, is this grease as bad as M*'s oil? Or usable?
-It's a little unclear from the manual how much grease would go on the screw drive, I am guessing a dab, any pointers?

Regarding old LFCM models:

-These old motors have an oil sponge in them. These sponges get pretty nasty after a while, gummy, hard, etc. Do you replace the sponges? Or something else? I know if I greased the shafts on the rotor I could avoid the sponge, but curious what the best course of action would be if I were to use oil.

-Brandon
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Offline kbvrod  
#29 Posted : 11 October 2012 22:40:07(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Hi Brandon,all,

>Newer models with screw drive sometimes call for 66626 grease, is this grease as bad as M*'s oil? Or usable?<

Nope.Read the forum.I have said again&again about M oil,...and please tell me where it is written,that T grease,M oil is better that any other,...?Please.

>It's a little unclear from the manual how much grease would go on the screw drive, I am guessing a dab, any pointers?<

Toothpick,small dabs,run the lok,run the lok,...

Regarding old LFCM models:

>These old motors have an oil sponge in them. These sponges get pretty nasty after a while, gummy, hard, etc. Do you replace the sponges? Or something else? I know if I greased the shafts on the rotor I could avoid the sponge, but curious what the best course of action would be if I were to use oil.<

Can you cut replacements?

Dr D

Offline Webmaster  
#30 Posted : 11 October 2012 23:07:39(UTC)
Webmaster


Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC)
Posts: 11,064
My 2 cents - Faller 170488 Spezialschmiermittel with Teflon®...

Works for both metal gears & plastic worms in any scale....
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service...
He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
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Offline Webmaster  
#31 Posted : 11 October 2012 23:19:11(UTC)
Webmaster


Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC)
Posts: 11,064
Originally Posted by: BrandonVA Go to Quoted Post
These old motors have an oil sponge in them. These sponges get pretty nasty after a while, gummy, hard, etc. Do you replace the sponges? Or something else? I know if I greased the shafts on the rotor I could avoid the sponge, but curious what the best course of action would be if I were to use oil.


I replace them with cut pieces of foam found in packing materials for eg computer parts and such... Amazing how much can you press into the sponge well... Actually works better than the original since it dispenses the oil in smaller amounts than the more porous M foam...
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service...
He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
Offline BrandonVA  
#32 Posted : 12 October 2012 21:54:43(UTC)
BrandonVA

United States   
Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,533
Location: VA
Kevin, Juhan,

Thanks. I should have understood that oil and grease were interchangeable in this context. I'll just assume anything M* and in liquid form is probably suspicious.
Good idea on the oil sponges. I have some pretty nasty ones, but this is pretty good common sense.

I'm grateful for the help on easy questions.

-Brandon
Online H0  
#33 Posted : 12 October 2012 22:40:18(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 13,927
Location: DE-NW
Hi!
Originally Posted by: BrandonVA Go to Quoted Post
I'll just assume anything M* and in liquid form is probably suspicious.
I don't think so.
They used some motor glue in the last century, but I hope they learned their lesson and the current oil and grease are OK.

Märklin locos from the 1980s or earlier have no problems with hardened oil (IMHO).
Neither have Märklin locos from this century.

But some sets from the 1990s bought new from the dealer come with hardened oil. Older, used sets may also have the problem, if the owner lubricated them with Märklin motor glue from the 1990s.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
Offline Alfa V8  
#34 Posted : 12 October 2012 23:06:01(UTC)
Alfa V8


Joined: 20/01/2007(UTC)
Posts: 211
Location: , Mpumalanga, South Africa
I use a syringe filled with automotive multigrade oil, 20W50 to apply small quantities of oil where ever it is needed, this includes things like the garden wheel barrow, domestic door hindges etc., to Marklin rolling stock and locomotive gears and motors. If it can last up to 15000Km or more in my car's sump then I have no problem using it in my Marklin equipment at any time, which in my opinion is only a very light duty application, have not worn out anything yet in more than 25 years, I only lubricate when the mechanism needs it (becomes noisy) and then only a tiny drop.BigGrin
Hannes

Every day provides new opertunities. H0 mostly Marklin, still using my 6021, LGB in Gauge 1, live steam in larger gauges.
Offline Ross  
#35 Posted : 13 October 2012 01:00:54(UTC)
Ross

Australia   
Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 757
Location: Sydney, NSW
Hi All,

This is what I have found works for me

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~.../rms/pdf/lubrication.pdf

The secret is not to apply too much oil.
Ross
Offline Lollo  
#36 Posted : 14 October 2012 06:37:23(UTC)
Lollo

New Zealand   
Joined: 22/06/2009(UTC)
Posts: 365
Hi all,

This has been an interesting topic. It is obvious we are all using various brands & types of lubrication. This is a critical part of maintaining our locomotives & rolling stock.
We must not also over look periodic cleaning of the whole drive system, as eventually it does get dirty, no mater what your lubrication procedures are.
Over lubrication can be as damaging as no lubrication. I have repaired a few locos from fellow club members, and the majority of poor running has been due to over lubrication. One loco I serviced was absolutely saturated with oil, it was every where, all over the frame and in the commutator which was sparking and shorting out.
Over lubrication as we know can attract unwanted material in the gears, and we know what happens next.
Periodic inspection is essential with any mechanical device. Often you will notice a change in noise that your loco makes or starts to jerk/hesitate a lot more than it should. Some times its mechanical, but on occasions I have found frayed or broken wiring to be the cause of erratic running.
I think the main factor in Lubrication is use a known quality brand, (talk to fellow modellers/forums) as many of us already quite well versed in this area, and if you are not sure don't be afraid to ask, hence this topic.
We will all ways have our preferences as we tend to stick with what we find works best for our selves, but sometimes there are better alternatives that we might not have thought of. This is why this forum is so great, you get a diverse range of experiences.
My oldest loco is a 3084 ver1 BR 50. I have had this since about 1977, and is still in very good running order.

Look after your investment & they will just keep on running. I think that's why Marklin is so good. Quality,reliability, and relatively easy to maintain.

Cheers,
Brian.
Brian
Yaasan's Desktop Station/Railuino & Marklin MS2, DB Era III/IV Diesel & Steam, ESU Loksound/Lokpilot & Lokprogrammer, Marklin mSD, Tam Valley Depot Octopus III Servo Controller.
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