Joined: 06/07/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,316
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Hello and Good Evening,
Now that I have been running some trains on Marklin's C track for the past week I have noticed a considerable increase in noise which I am not used to when I was using 2 rail DCC. I've tried to add insulation under the roadbed with limited success. What I find discouraging is spending the big bucks on sound and not being able to hear it from the wheel noise, reminds me of rain hitting the tin roof of the old army barracks from way back when. All I can say is that besides the noise everything runs like a, well, a, MARKLIN the best ever!
Any suggestion on how to deaden the plastic like rumbling sound would be greatly appreciated. Since I'm just starting what are your thought on Marklin K track? I still have boxes of cork roadbed and knowing how quiet trains run on cork maybe that's the best way to do my layout? (I love the look of C track but not the noise!)
In case you're wondering the sound is from the Märklin 39182 German Federal Railroad (DB) Diesel Locomotive pulling four beautiful City-Bahn passenger cars.
Regards,
Michel
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Joined: 27/11/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,218 Location: Middle of the US
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Michel:
If you really want to have the quietest running set up I would think you would have to go with K Track. I use C track and love it but you are right once you run it at any speed over a crawl you will get some noise. I think products exist that can slide under the c track to absorb the vibration and you can always put your c track down on materials such as cork or Homasote Board which will help with the noise but in the end, I think the K track on cork will give you results most similar to two rail track which you are familiar with. Also, remember nothing will eliminate the noise of the Slider on the center rail.
I hope this helps.
Chris
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Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,874 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
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Michel,
there are lot of things we haven't been told about it.
As Chris mentioned K-track is quiter but ther are reasons for it.
Someone somewhere has decided 3 rail is not looking good, so instead of having the pukos, as some members call them or middle contact studs sideways, Märklin placed them with C-track long ways, making it less noticable. I can't see the reason for it because it is still 3 rail and whether you can notice it 100% or 75 %, to me is irrelevent. or it could be saving money, less metal, anyhow there are solutions how to minimize the noise. you can inclose the C-track with cork around it but than you loos your track bed, you can put cork underneath the track and it will help a bit. I've noticed the excessive noise right from the start and being familiar with Roco pick up shoes I've decided to try one. they call themm silent sliders and true to their word it is much quiter. Other than that, well would you like to cahnge to K -track ? after all this
John |
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 1 user liked this useful post by river6109
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Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC) Posts: 8,225 Location: Montreal, QC
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Michel,
installing a thin strip of cork underneath the C-Track may help solve your problem. There is also the separate issue of slider noise with all three rail AC locomotives (and cars/coaches with sliders). The Roco Flusterschleifer (Whisper Slider) that John referred to are available in your area at John's Photo (Danforth) in Toronto as well as from other dealers on the internet (Eurorailhobbies in BC) or worldwide. I find that some models are louder than others. My Roco Re 4/4IIs that were delivered without the Flusterschleifer make an annoying tick-tick sound on C-Track. Adjusting the height and the angle of the slider can reduce or eliminate this. I intend to install the Flusterschleifer on those models, as it is very quiet on the models that already came with it.
As far as track, trains make noise, so a certain amount of running noise in addition to the engine sounds can still be realistic. If you are operating on a wooden board, it is possible that the board is resonating and amplifying the noise from the tracks. As I stated above, a thin (3mm cork underlay) may reduce this. Installing cross members underneath the wooden board may also dampen the resonation.
After watching train videos on YouTube, I have been much more tolerant on the noise made by the trains going by. The slider noise is the one that sounds least natural, but that can be solved.
Regards
Mike C
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 1 user liked this useful post by mike c
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Joined: 15/03/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,757 Location: Auckland NZ
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Michel, All, On our AMC (Auckland Marklin Club) modules which have C Track on plywood roadbed mostly we found the noise a problem. Firstly we tried Noch foam C track underlay 99409 and whist it made a difference, it was still far from ideal, and that product is no longer available anyway. One of our members hit the nail on the head by also adding stripps of cork up under the C Track, to fill the cavity which actually acts as a sound amplifier we found, and that reduced the noise by a further margin. Later same member and myself were assisting an elderly gentleman with the build of his new Marklin C Track layout, photos of which appeared on this forum a few years ago This layout is on a large flat plywood table the owner built, then layers of polystyrene foam were laid and sculptured to form the ground, piles of it in places to form Mountains ! All this done by a DCC two rail friend of the owner's, much to our frustration when we came to try and make the layout function !! He, Rob had some Woodland Scenics foam track underlay whcih I think was really designed as a road bed alternative to cork for K Track and the like on sleepers (Ties). However it's raised part nicely filled the C Track cavity with a small bit protruding under each side of the C Track base. Where this is installed on the layout the trains run considerably, even acceptably quieter, than on any other C Track solution I have seen/heard. (We need to see if Woodlands still have that product available and make it the new standard for our AMC modules  ) So Michel I recommend you investigate the Woodlands Scenic Foam track underlay ! |
Glen Auckland NZ
" Every Marklin layout needs a V200, a Railbus and a Banana car", not to mention a few Black and red Steamers, oh and the odd Elok !
CS1 Reloaded, Touch Cab, C Track Modules, K track layout all under construction. Currently Insider |
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Joined: 10/08/2009(UTC) Posts: 3,443
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Michel,
Real trains in scale 1:1 make a lot of noise too!
Paul. |
Have more than you show,speak less than you know (Shakespeare). |
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Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,870 Location: Gibraltar, Europe
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Hi Michel,
If you run trains on C track on, say a tiled floor, you realise that it is in fact very quiet. Most of the noise is usually produced by reverberation in the wooden baseboard.
When I first set up my tracks on my plywood base, the noise was not very noticeable. I screwed the track down and the following day I ran trains again. I was shocked at how much louder it had become! I realised thet the screws were acting as sound conductors and transmitting the vibrations to the plywood, which was acting as a sounding board. I took out most of the screws, leaving only about 1 per metre. The noise became a lot more acceptable.
You don't mention if you have used screws to hold the track down, but if you have, try taking most of them out.
BTW, if you listen to a real train going past at speed from a distance of about 100 metres, you realise that the noise of the wheels on the track is a lot louder than the noise of the locomotive. |
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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 1 user liked this useful post by RayF
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Joined: 06/07/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,316
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Good Morning,
I concur, Real trains in scale 1:1 make a lot of noise, But this is a model train running indoors which is 1/87 scale and the noise level is 1/1 scale. Alright not 1/1 maybe 1/32 scale! My point is that the C track is amplifying the sound of the slider and wheels to a level that I'm not used to.
Ray I did screw the track down and I put one screw in for each piece of track. You are right that the screws would increase the sound I just didn't hear the difference.
Yesterday afternoon I started to fill the cavities with folded paper towel cut to size and that helped somewhat. I'm going to do what Glenn suggests and fill the cavities with cork roadbed since I have over four hundred feet of it that was salvaged from my 2 rail DC layout.
This is all new to me and my reasoning to post my experiences with Marklin on this forum is so that I can gather information and hopefully not have to recreate the wheel because I know someone else must be experiencing the same things I am.
Chris, John, Mike and Glen, thank you for your suggestions!
Michel
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Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,689 Location: United Kingdom
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I most use the cork sheet under the C-tracks and running quite by about 70%.
If long passenger/freights running bit noise. |
Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy. |
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Joined: 25/09/2010(UTC) Posts: 417 Location: Sherwood Park, AB, Canada
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On my temporary layout, I bought some green felt from a fabric store to simulate grass, that absorbed the track noise. Cork is not as good as a sound insulator but it is more stiff and may transmit a small bit more sound.
But C or M track on bare table top...the table top amplifies the sound. Ever notice how a music box sounds much louder on the table than holding it in the air?
As mentioned above, there are several solutions.... The Nock foam on K track is probably the quietest...but it is also not that durable and easy to clean. Some of my friends use it and it is very quiet, however the foam does expand from handling and after many years, not look so great. They are goint to have to ballast again soon...just like real life!....There is no one best solution.
On my new layout, I will probably get some more of the felt and lay my C track on it. After I mess around to get my final layout, then I will either use foam or cork or whatever I experiment to permanantly lay my track. I do not like the track noise as it is a high frequency noise and I am sensitive to it. Others do not seem to mind.
Have fun with it!
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Harald CS2 DB & Canadian Era 3-6 |
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Joined: 29/05/2008(UTC) Posts: 272 Location: USA
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Hi Michel,
I like to listen to music while running my trains, so I use K-track glued onto cork roadbed with no additional ballast. It doesn't look as realistic, but is very quiet. The cork is mounted to a layer of styrofoam, so there is pretty good insulation from the baseboard. Here in the US, cork roadbed is readily available and cheap. I ordered a roll of the unballasted Noch foam roadbed to experiment with, and found that to be very quiet, too, but more difficult to use when compared to cork. It is very flimsy. Also, it was alot more expensive than cork. So my solution is a compromise. I put a lot of effort into weathering the rails and crossties with multiple colors to help everything visually blend together, so I think it looks OK. Like Harald (Witzlerh), I don't like high-frequency noise, either. I sometimes think that the problem with C-track (and M-track, too) is that the rigid roadbed acts a reflector of the sound waves generated by the wheels. The open-cell foam of the Noch roadbed absorbs the sound waves instead of reflecting them back. Unballasted K-track does the same thing - the exposed crossties are like sound baffles to break up the sound waves. I have heard of modelers using ground foam as ballast in the quest to reduce noise, but I have not seen this in person, so I don't know how effective it is. I would encourage you to experiment a bit before committing to any track system if noise is an important factor to you. |
Marty
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Joined: 06/07/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,316
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Good Evening,
I've tried some things to improve the noise level when the trains are running on C track so the sooner I find a solution the better! Like others I have a difficult time with high-frequency noise, which for me is a real problem! I've been a model railroader ever since I can remember. As mentioned on other posts on marklin-users.net this is my beginning with Marklin. I have my personal reasons for switching to Marklin and maybe someday I will elaborate why the switch from 2 rail DCC. But for now I will be seeking a lot of help and I would like to thank each and everyone for your help. I'm happy that's all what matters!
Regards,
Michel
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Joined: 09/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,919 Location: Auckland,
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Hi Michel,
The best way you will reduce the noise is by laying the track directly onto polystyrene foam. If you ballast a little over the edges of each side of the roadbed it will be sufficient to hold the track in place. Ultimately what you need to achieve with any track type, is a minimal rigid connection between the track and your baseboard as this is what transmits the vibrations eg the screws.
I personally use K track with Merkur underlay (No longer available) and have had good results. Peco do a pre-ballasted under lay for their code 100 track, but I don't know if it is compatible with K track. For the C track, polystyrenne would be my choice.
Cheers...
Mike.
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Joined: 15/03/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,757 Location: Auckland NZ
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Originally Posted by: mvd71  Hi Michel,
The best way you will reduce the noise is by laying the track directly onto polystyrene foam. If you ballast a little over the edges of each side of the roadbed it will be sufficient to hold the track in place. Ultimately what you need to achieve with any track type, is a minimal rigid connection between the track and your baseboard as this is what transmits the vibrations eg the screws.
I personally use K track with Merkur underlay (No longer available) and have had good results. Peco do a pre-ballasted under lay for their code 100 track, but I don't know if it is compatible with K track. For the C track, polystyrenne would be my choice.
Cheers...
Mike. Mike, you probably didn't read my post  because Rob's layout, you should remember from the 07 or was it 08 AMC Xmas party, is built entirely on polystyrene. However where the Woodland scenics track underlay is, under his C Track, the sound is greatly reduced.  It makes an easier and tidier fix than polystyrene  |
Glen Auckland NZ
" Every Marklin layout needs a V200, a Railbus and a Banana car", not to mention a few Black and red Steamers, oh and the odd Elok !
CS1 Reloaded, Touch Cab, C Track Modules, K track layout all under construction. Currently Insider |
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Joined: 09/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,919 Location: Auckland,
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Oh but I did Glen! The polystyrene can be used and works extremely well, but you do need to plan it out for where you want to run wires. Yes it is meesy working with the polystyrene, but nothing that cant be cleaned up easily.
Cheers....
Mike.
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Joined: 15/03/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,757 Location: Auckland NZ
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Originally Posted by: mvd71  Oh but I did Glen! The polystyrene can be used and works extremely well, but you do need to plan it out for where you want to run wires. Yes it is meesy working with the polystyrene, but nothing that cant be cleaned up easily.
Cheers....
Mike. So where exactly did you use it Mike ???? Anyhow I have done a bit of research by way of a visit to Local former Marklin Agent and Hobby store Merve Smith's, in Newmarket, Auckland, today, and checked out their Woodland Scenics Stock, which they seem to have reasonable quantaties of. So for C Track underlay, I would suggest Woodland's p/.n#1475 for N Scale that fits totally inside the C Track road bed, would be an ideal sound deadner. I have not done any experiments with it yet, but will get some in due corse and try it out. The HO Scale variety p/n#1474 seemed a bit wide, and really the C Track sat right on top of it, which is is not ideal, but then we buried the tracks in the foam, in a planed furrow on Rob's layout, in a lot of places, and that could be where we used his W/S foam track under lay, which was for HO Scale. The C track looks great there, with slots of ballast on the sides. A posting was done on this site, after our Xmas function at his place, by Macfire (Tony), back in 2007. The N Scale product WS 1475, could be used on any main road bed underlay product, ie cork ? It's main ideal is that it fills the voiid under the Track road bed , so deadening the eco created within. I look fwd to trying it on my modules where the track roadbed is just 6mm plywood. Any comments after testing welcome  |
Glen Auckland NZ
" Every Marklin layout needs a V200, a Railbus and a Banana car", not to mention a few Black and red Steamers, oh and the odd Elok !
CS1 Reloaded, Touch Cab, C Track Modules, K track layout all under construction. Currently Insider |
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Joined: 21/02/2012(UTC) Posts: 38 Location: New Boston
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Hello all my layout is temporarily and is build on a table with 6mm thick wood plates. I was on a train show last weekend and saw from Woodland Scenic this material were they ran the track on. In the catalog it is called RISERS. Its a kind of polystyrene. Is this what you guys already talking about? I have some of them coming as incline sets. I going to install them on my layout and then i have the difference between some track laying on the boards and some on the risers. I let you guys know how it sounds and if there is a difference Greetings Arno
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Joined: 06/10/2010(UTC) Posts: 883 Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
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Joined: 06/07/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,316
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Good Morning, I would like to thank everyone who has replied to this post. The plan was and still is to use C track. The alternative is for me to use K track on cork roadbed from Midwest which I have. As I'm getting my feet wet with Marklin the question I have is K track still prevalent and easy to get?
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 1 user liked this useful post by michelvr
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Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,597 Location: Beverly, MA
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Originally Posted by: michelvr  Good Morning, I would like to thank everyone who has replied to this post. The plan was and still is to use C track. The alternative is for me to use K track on cork roadbed from Midwest which I have. As I'm getting my feet wet with Marklin the question I have is K track still prevalent and easy to get? Hi Michel,all, Yes,K is still available and with some work you can have a nice track plan AND it has flex track(!!!) Dr D
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 1 user liked this useful post by kbvrod
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Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,319 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
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So I'm going to tack on to this old thread 4 years too late, because in my search for the topic, this thread came up from Google - so others in the future will also likely land here.
I'm starting my layout, and I plan on making it a C-Track + K-Track hybrid. I plan to use C->K/K->C transitions and use the K flextrack in straight long sections to get those very gentle angled curves and direction changes to avoid running directly parallel to the edge or to meet up with some other part where it would otherwise take a mix of a dozen other track bits. I plan to use the C-track where I want consistent and controlled layout - such as in my 5 layer helix to get up-down from the upper level to the lower main level. (I'm building a 2 level visible, + 1 hidden layer below layout).
For the c-track in the helix, to limit the grade (I'm still experimenting) I may just screw the track to the helix plywood boards - but I"m OK with that as I'll be hiding the entire helix under a mountain/terrain sculpture, that I can put some sound dampening foam on the insides of, and the only exists for sound will be 4 tunnel portals.
With the c-track and screwing, its not just the screw that transmits the sound to the base-board, but also that the screws clamp down/hold down the c-track very solidly to the baseboard, so any vibrations on the track get transmitted very efficiently from the c-track's body down the sides of the plastic ballast into the wood, which then resonates out the sound.
To address that putting some flexible foam or cork between the c-track and the wood base and not screwing in the c-track screws 100% tight will help, as the sound will then have to transmit through the foam barrier.
Additionally, the sound coming from the wood base is dependent on the dynamics of the wooden base. The more massive the base, the less sound it will resonate. So if you had much heavier wood, it would cut down on the noise signature some. One can screw on some heavier materials in larger open expanses, for example, to change the 'speaker dynamics' of that flat surface, as well as attach some cheap sound deadening foam to the underside of the wood as well. I'll be trying out some of these as I build my layout up over the coming years.
I like the idea of filling the void under the c-track with sound absorbing material as that will limit the vibration to only what transmits down via the plastic roadbed sides, and what radiates directly up.
I imagine some of the high frequency noise could be coming from the track rails directly - radiating out, and that loosening up the mounting of the track to a solid object would allow the track to vibrate and move a bit more and not produce as much high frequency. Now I'm out on a limb though. I wonder how well very cheap poly-fill batten (like for pillows) would work under the track, if not some open cell foam that is precut or can be cut with a hot-wire cutter to size. I know that Märklin of Sweden used a type of IKEA carpet-anti-skid material on his layout.. .I'll see what my local IKEA has, but know many folks don't have an IKEA nearby (I do like the idea of inexpensive and sustainably sourced material ).
At this point, I've got my 5 layer helix and the 120 R1 and R2 track segments to make the 2 rail concentric circles and will hook it up to my table top double-oval once it gets here in April 2016.
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 1 user liked this useful post by Minok
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Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,047
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A word of caution, I would think twice about what you try to put under the track. You have mentioned rolling paper towels and stuffing them under the tracks. it might be low voltage but it can still be dangerous remember all the contacts are exposed, to give you an example you leave the room for x reason and leave things running. There is derailment, you could have sparks or you could have a partial shortcircuit that doesn't cut power but is enough to generate heat. Would you really want something like paper in contact with a concentrated spot of heat? That would also probably surrounded by scenery that would equally flamable.
Flat cork or rubber are probably the easiest and best, try adding extra legs to the table, a wobbling table centre could be working as an amplifier. The room itself might have echo, curtain and carpets help. Set at maximun volume that loco should also be powerful enough to hear it well, I never use them at max and I still seem to get what I want. There is also no escape no matter what you do, three rail will always be more noisy than two.
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 1 user liked this useful post by Iamnotthecrazyone
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Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,589 Location: Spain
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I use 2mm thick cork. the type of rolls that you can get in hardware stores, used for wall decoration and/or as underlay for carpets. I staple and glue strips of cork onto 12mm plywood ramps/plates, and then fasten the K-track with screws. The whole thing is then ballasted with real stone/sand and white glue, and is quite solid and hard once finished.
The opinion of -and discomfort from- the sound of the trains running are certainly subjective considerations. I love the sound that comes from this setup, but then again I grew up with older M-tracks and tinplate rolling stock rattling along...
I clearly hear the screeching of metal flanges against the rails, and also the hundreds of "dadum-dadum"s of wheels passing the joints of every rail segment. The motor-noise is just a very low "humm" in the background. IMHO motor-noise from the locos will often emmit directly from the motorized unit itself, rather than being amplified through the base of the layout. The interior design of the motorized unit is (IMHO again) much more important in this case. The ROCO locos tend to be much better in this aspect. -at least when comparing 10-15 year old models. (My latest M-model is the E150, which is certainly dead-quiet, I admit it! ;-) |
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 3 users liked this useful post by hxmiesa
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Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,319 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
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I will be looking at homasote as a material to use, and will need to experiment with it and cork.
Treating the ROOM with sound reducing wall materials, as well as the floor and even maybe the ceiling also affect the experience. There's a difference in running the same train on a circle when its on the wooden coffee table in the living room vs on the tile floor in your ceramic and glass surfaced bathroom. Changing the acoustic characteristics of the experience is often achieved by making changes in areas you don't initially think much about.. especial with regard to higher frequency sounds. |
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