Converting old Märklin locos with single bulbs to potential-free lighting

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Converting old Märklin locos with single bulbs to potential-free lighting - Frankenbahner

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Frankenbahner		#1 Posted : 09 June 2012 14:29:13(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 625 Location: Nuremberg, Bavaria		The bulbs of most old analog locos are directly connected to ground via the metal chassis. Most locos have plastic light circuits, which are lit from a bulb inside the loco. When you digitalize the loco and don't change this, the light will flicker. In most cases, this bulb can easily be replaced with a LED, which is the most ideal form of lighting for model trains, not only for digital operation: they don't warm up, and have a nearly unlimited lifetime. A few old Märklin engines however, have every single headlight lit with an own bulb. These are, for example, the E 63, E 44 (old moulds), BR 23, Re 4/4 I (old moulds), Be 6/8 (old moulds), or the first versions of the BR 01 (old moulds, of course). Some of these moulds had a long life - some of them were eventually re-released as "Primex" of "Hobby" models. Many of these locos now face digitalization, so the lights have to be changed. You could replace those bulbs with LEDs, too, but LEDs would not fit properly with the old design and look of these locos. So, what to do? I first tried to insulate the original bulbs, which did not work, as they would no longer fit into the old holders. I thik the only way to convert this locos properly, is to replace the old contact pins with insulated lamp sockets. The first loco I converted this way, was an E 44. From a cirucit board, I cut pieces into the right size, which I fitted with two double-pole sockets. Now I needed new parts - the Märklin number for these bulbs is 610080, these are bulbs for 22 V. The new bulbs have a smaller diameter then the old ones, but this does not really matter. At this E 44, both lamps on each side were still switched parallel. For future conversion, I will connect them in series. Regards, Florian
		H0 3-rail AC with DCC, MM and mfx, 2-rail DC streetcars, and N gauge
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3 users liked this useful post by Frankenbahner		franciscohg, sevs, Khanzir
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intruder		#2 Posted : 09 June 2012 16:28:04(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway		Very nice, Florian! Thanks for the tip. I have an old 3013 NS1100, where this conversion may work.
		Best regards Svein, Norway grumpy old sod
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Frankenbahner		#3 Posted : 09 June 2012 17:45:32(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 625 Location: Nuremberg, Bavaria		The DB E44 (3011), NS 1100 (3013) and the SBB Re 4/4 I (3014) all use the same chassis. So this shold also work with the NS 1100. Regards, Florian
		H0 3-rail AC with DCC, MM and mfx, 2-rail DC streetcars, and N gauge
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river6109		#4 Posted : 09 June 2012 18:26:14(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,883 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square		Florian, I'll have a look at mine and see if I can copy it, How do you insert the light holder ? are the leds fixed to the light holder and you insert them afterwards whenyou put the housing back on or you stick the led's into the holder and than put the housing on ? regards., John
		https://www.youtube.com/river6109 https://www.youtube.com/6109river 5 years in Destruction mode 50 years in Repairing mode
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franciscohg		#5 Posted : 09 June 2012 18:35:10(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 3,299 Location: Patagonia		great tip, thanks!
		German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL


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Frankenbahner		#6 Posted : 09 June 2012 19:51:57(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 625 Location: Nuremberg, Bavaria		Originally Posted by: river6109 Florian, I'll have a look at mine and see if I can copy it, How do you insert the light holder ? are the leds fixed to the light holder and you insert them afterwards whenyou put the housing back on or you stick the led's into the holder and than put the housing on ? regards., John First, I fix the housing on the chassis (the lamp holders - those black sheet metal parts - have already been removed when the loco had been dismantled). Then, I',m going to insert the new bulbs into the sockets. The sockets can be seen from outside, throgh the holes (in the housing) for the Lamp holder. Through those holes, the bulbs are inserted into the sockets. Finally, I'm going to fix the black lamp holders. When the loco has to be dismantled again, I start with removing the lamp holders first, then the bulbs, and finally the housing. Removing the hosuing without removing the new bulbs before, wold destroy the bulbs. Regards, Florian
		H0 3-rail AC with DCC, MM and mfx, 2-rail DC streetcars, and N gauge
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Bigdaddynz		#7 Posted : 09 June 2012 23:29:44(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,778 Location: New Zealand		Very clever solution! I must get myself some of those black connector sockets and pins.
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Frankenbahner		#8 Posted : 14 June 2012 13:52:31(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 625 Location: Nuremberg, Bavaria		The next project was a BR 23. I started with removing the old contact pins from the chassis and the old blubs from the lamp holders. Next stept, I glued the new sockets into the original lamp holder (the black sheet metal part). As you can see on the pictures, I used those black connector pins again. The round sockets used by Märklin and other firms, have a too wide diameter for these lamp holders. Don't forget to insulate the connections, the chassis is metal all over. The wires were put into the indentation, where once the original contact pins could be found. First, the bulbs were connected parallel - but it soon showed out that the light was much too bright then. DB locos, however, never had such brightly shining headlights until the mid-1990s. This loco is still fitted with a Märklin 60902 decoder - this normally works well, but it's not fitted with a function to dim the lights. So I changed this again, and swithed the bulbs in series. Now, the bulbs get less voltage, so the light is softer now. The Märklin decoder is also the reason why the Märklin colour sheme is being used for this loco. Normally, I'm using the DCC scheme. Finally, I cut a piece of plastic to prevent the wires from falling down onto the leading axle, which could probably let the loco derail. Regards, Florian
		H0 3-rail AC with DCC, MM and mfx, 2-rail DC streetcars, and N gauge
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Frankenbahner		#9 Posted : 24 June 2012 00:28:26(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 625 Location: Nuremberg, Bavaria		Now a few pictures of a converted E 63. Regards, Florian
		H0 3-rail AC with DCC, MM and mfx, 2-rail DC streetcars, and N gauge
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Frankenbahner		#10 Posted : 27 June 2012 10:37:58(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 625 Location: Nuremberg, Bavaria		That's how the E63 looks with the new headlights turned on: Regards, Florian
		H0 3-rail AC with DCC, MM and mfx, 2-rail DC streetcars, and N gauge
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