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Offline Joseph Meiring  
#1 Posted : 27 November 2011 22:05:10(UTC)
Joseph Meiring

South Africa   
Joined: 27/12/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,157
Location: Western Cape Cape Town
Has anyone tried cutting/shortening the truss bridges 74620 and/or straight ramps 74618?....I need a piece about 95mm long so that my arch bridges are positioned correctlyConfused
...or is this a no-no....Unsure
Joe
Offline Yumgui  
#2 Posted : 27 November 2011 22:54:33(UTC)
Yumgui

United States   
Joined: 20/03/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,660
Location: Paris, France
Joe,

As Marklin bridges are full and un-dividable track parts, I suggest you work out the odd track lengths in the tracks leading up to the bridge(s)... track planning software (ie. Raily 4.0) really works wonders to get the kinks out beforehand !

Yum ThumpUp
If your M track is rusted ... DON'T throw it out !
Working on: https://studiogang.com/projects/all
My heavy train station renovation: https://youtu.be/QQlyNiq416A
Inspired by: http://www.nakedmarklin.com/... Am not alone in this universe, phew.
Offline David Dewar  
#3 Posted : 27 November 2011 23:20:37(UTC)
David Dewar

Scotland   
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 7,343
Location: Scotland
Hi Joe. I have often cut the ramps to ensure a good fit etc. Use a small fine tooth saw and you can join to another ramp by gluing a bit of plastic underneath both parts. Easier to cut the 74618.
The ramps I use are made by Faller but the look the same as the Marklin ones and therefore possibly made by Faller.
Have a go and I am sure you will be OK.

dave
Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by David Dewar
Offline kimballthurlow  
#4 Posted : 27 November 2011 23:45:36(UTC)
kimballthurlow

Australia   
Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC)
Posts: 6,669
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Originally Posted by: David Dewar Go to Quoted Post
Hi Joe. I have often cut the ramps to ensure a good fit etc. Use a small fine tooth saw and you can join to another ramp by gluing a bit of plastic underneath both parts. Easier to cut the 74618.
The ramps I use are made by Faller but the look the same as the Marklin ones and therefore possibly made by Faller.
Have a go and I am sure you will be OK.

dave


Hi Joe,
Yes, cutting the bridge sections as David describes is quite practical.

In the photo below, I used old plastic kits (maybe Faller, or Vollmer). The plate girder sections at left and right of the central part, were cut to fit. I cut a 50mm section out of each one, and reglued.

https://www.marklin-users.net/upload/community/Layoutpics/kimballthurlow/singlesteelbridge2.jpg

regards
Kimball
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by kimballthurlow
Offline DaleSchultz  
#5 Posted : 08 December 2011 03:45:37(UTC)
DaleSchultz

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC)
Posts: 3,997
you can also give a straight bridge a slight curve... see http://layout.mixmox.com...5Makingacurvedbridgeramp
Dale
Intellibox + own software, K-Track
My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com
Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by DaleSchultz
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