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Offline gcanton  
#1 Posted : 24 October 2011 18:32:28(UTC)
gcanton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 15/06/2004(UTC)
Posts: 71
Location: Hampshire, UK
I have a collection of Gauge 1 locos of varying vintages. I normally have converted them to run on Marklin Motorola data. However since being treated by an over indulgent wife to a Ecos I can run DCC which theoretically controls the late 1980's/early 1990's original digital locos.

If I have the original instructions then I have had some success. For example with driving the BR80 museum model with DCC. It twitches when some instructions as broadcast but basically it runs and the lights are controllable. However if I do not have the instructions it is difficult to make it work as the options are broken, needs TLC or need to try 80 addresses until it moves. Does anybody know of a source of the original addresses? And possibly even how to reprogramme, without buying the original Marklin kit of parts, from an Ecos?

I have had very good result upgrading Maxi engines to HO Lokpilots fixed to a piece of Veroboard cut to size to fit in the original holder and plug in the original connector. I can show how if anybody is interested. I suspect a Maxi loco with 4 trucks is not a large load.

AC locos behave well enough with a pair of diodes on the field magnet and a lokpilot or lokpilot XL for larger locos.

However it would be good to keep the original 1980's locos intact if they will talk to a modern controller.

I know this is the best place to ask from the help I have received in the past.

Graham
Offline H0  
#2 Posted : 24 October 2011 20:35:38(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,272
Location: DE-NW
My Lenz Decoders (for H0 scale) came with default address 3.
If they support DCC, try to read CV 1 (on the programming track) and try that as an address.
BTW: if they support DCC you can read CV 8 (manufacturer) and CV 7 (decoder version). Post this information so users here can try to find manuals for you.

I have Lenz decoders that do not support DCC and that have DIP switches to set the address.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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Offline Webmaster  
#3 Posted : 24 October 2011 20:59:44(UTC)
Webmaster


Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC)
Posts: 11,161
Tom, you mean you have some old LE900's in some Roco locs? Wink

As Tom says, usually the Lenz DCC decoders are programmed to DCC address 3 by default. But if the manufacturer or user has reprogrammed it, not so easy to guess. CV1 is the DCC primary address of the decoder, and if you have a controller that can read CV's you should get the right address from there. Just be sure that the loco is alone on the track or on the programming track while doing it.
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service...
He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
Offline gcanton  
#4 Posted : 13 December 2011 18:35:09(UTC)
gcanton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 15/06/2004(UTC)
Posts: 71
Location: Hampshire, UK
Well I can 1/2 reply to my own question in case anybody else has the same problem. The address from the factory will be the last 2 digits of the model number so a 5501 set is 01 and a 5517 17. You can't quiz the decoders with an ECos successfully. The lights respond and all be it slightly noisily they run. As the models are about 20 years old lubrication is the big issue as it has turned to glue. However I can run my brown kof, E91, silver museum BR80 and 5501 set without replacing the electronics using the wireless controller in the garden so happiness. The running is not as good as a 2011 decoder and doubtless as time and finances permit I will consider upgrading them but for now I can run them without resorting to a soldering iron. But if you are trying this I can't stress how solid the lube will be, I've had a Chanderli that would not move before sorting and now is as sweet as a nut with a Lokpilot decoder. I find without smoke and 3-4 items of rolling stock at a scale 30 km/h the current draw without a smoke generator is comfortably under an amp and the HO decoders fit inside the frames between the wheels where Marklin base their circuitry often (Maxi engines, Chanderli and the fit in the bonnet of a Kof too.)

Graham



Offline Bayview  
#5 Posted : 19 February 2012 09:40:20(UTC)
Bayview


Joined: 25/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 4
Location: New Zealand
Graham, have you tried the original Marklin DCC 1980's Lenz programmer (fits onto the 6030 DCC Central unit) With this programmer a booklet was supplied that described how to programme these original G1 Lenz decoders. You can change A. the address in CV 1, (1-99) and B. only the acceleration and deceleration CV's in these older units.

Alternatively, if using a modern DCC controller (Ibox or Ecos) then try writing to the CV only without reading it. Error messages may arise, and no read out values may be accessable, but WRITE usually works despite the error messages and the new value gets posted in the CV. Make sure the loco is the only thing on the track.

Even if all this works, I have always found that these older Lenz units work horribly, and arent worth spending too much time on, other than to keep the loco in its perfect original condition. When running on a modern DCC controller, Lenz's 1;32 scale usually accelerate OK but stop suddenly from about speed step 5 to zero and behave erratically. Ugly. Why dont you fit an ESU XL or HO decoder and be done with it!! Peter
Offline gcanton  
#6 Posted : 19 February 2012 18:59:48(UTC)
gcanton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 15/06/2004(UTC)
Posts: 71
Location: Hampshire, UK
Thank-you Peter,

The 3 answers are partly that I started with a 6021 and so don't own a 6030/programmer, partly curiosity, partly being mean and busy. I will try writing and see how it works. Undoubtedly it is a dog rough system compared with now but 30 years is a long time in electronics (being kind). I will do the upgrades as the buzzing is irritating as well as the "digital" speed control. The conversions can be long winded with making an interface between the various connectors and a new decoder as well as mounting it. Ironically maxi is easy if there are not led lights using a straight lokpilot, the XL is sometimes more of a challenge. But it is strangely satisfying seeing them controlled from a hand held wireless controller showing how sensible Marklin world is to avoid obsolescence. You are correct that it is, in reality, a temporary solution.

This forum does make it a lot easier to indulge in our tiny subset of the hobby. Thank-you.

Graham

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